M V2Q is a phenomenally unique and bold fragrance comprised of layers and layers of deep and complex notes, it’s a scent which cannot possibly smell understated or refined - yet thrives in its garish character. I must say after testing the entire range from Puredistance, this is easily my favourite by a mile. This scent is woody to the max; a rich, earthy heart of cypriol with burning pine tar and cedar behind it dominates the senses. From here a hefty punch of cinnamon with a whisper of lavender warms up the gentle indolic heart of jasmine and orange blossom, all before simmering down to a leathery labdanum and patchouli base. It doesn’t get more masculine than this, you don’t often come across a fragrance which so readily abuses cypriol and pine tar like this. I absolutely adore this scent, it’s a shame about how expensive it is but I simply cannot get enough. From what I can tell there doesn’t seem to be much similarity to the original M, save for the cinnamon and leathery touches, overall it feels like an entirely new creation which could have heralded a new dawn for Puredistance were their advertising better.

Charade took me by surprise, as I was testing my way through the Sarah Baker range for the first time in Jovoy. It captured my heart in an instant, and within that moment I knew I had to buy a sample at the very least, to fully explore and appreciate this masterful scent. Since then, it currently sits right at the top of my wishlist and is easily my favourite from the house. This is a powerful tuberose scent, but not as you might know. The sweet, fruity facets of this wonderful flower are heightened by the deliciousness of honey, resting on a buttery smooth base of warm amber, and a creamy marriage of ylang, sandalwood and oakmoss. However, leather is what makes this scent what it is. It gives it a somewhat rugged thickness preventing the tuberose from becoming too soapy or bubblegum-like. I can honestly say I think this is an utter masterpiece. Tuberose and leather is a pairing which can smell out of this world if done correctly, and here it is perfect. This scent made me realise tuberose is one of my favourite notes if done correctly.

Unspoken Musk is inspired by the idea of natural animal musks which have had humans in a chokehold since the dawn of ancient perfumery, but does not aim to accurately replicate the scent of natural musk. Instead, it embodies the idea of what musk is and the imaginative suggestions it may bring to one’s mind. The overall scent is quite bright surprisingly, with a refreshing hesperidic facet coming from bergamot, complimented by aromatic clean florals such as Imortelle, magnolia and orris. The musk comes in the form of clean, synthetic musks primarily, backed up by a strong whisper of castoreum and civet to give it some edge. All of which rests on a soft, sweet and creamy base of sandalwood, tonka and vanilla - pairing with human skin perfectly. In the beginning, the combination of the clean freshness with the animal notes comes across as what can only be described as a urinal cake. Thankfully, this is short lived and soon the slightly urinous aspect of the civet leans into the sweetness of the base much better. This is definitely one you cannot judge fairly from a strip, it has to be given a chance to take you on it’s full journey.

Byzantine Amber remedies everything that is wrong with Amber fragrances these days. The scent is inspired by the gleaming gold and luminous splendour of the Byzantine civilisation, bringing to life the idea of theatrical luxury accompanied by a dark and mysterious personality hidden beneath. It opens with geranium, highlighting all of its beautiful pulpy, rosy and slightly spicy elements which are furthered by a hefty dose of alluring cinnamon. However, this fragrance is dry - very dry, through the inclusion of frankincense, styrax and ambergris giving it a slightly smoky, animal feel. Above all, sits what seems to be a classical Amber accord, but missing one of its key components: vanilla. The exclusion of vanilla prevents this scent from becoming overly sweet, instead leaning into its dark, dry and spicy facets. This is one of my absolute favourite amber fragrances on the market. If you’re tired of the overly sweet, almost gourmand vanillic ambers currently swarming the market then this is the answer. It reminds me of other beautiful dark ambers such as Amber Absolute and Parfum De La Nuit 1; this is obviously far more affordable but no less glorious. A truly masterful rendition of amber.

“A secret encounter of lovers, tightly bound by an impossible passion.” The Lover’s Tale is a romance of a by-gone era, a secret encounter between two lovers at a time when scandal could bring social ruin to your family. It walks the edge between refined and perverse, sophisticated and lustrous. A sweet, powdery marriage of countless florals makes up the bulk of this scent; jasmine, rose and heliotrope, with Bianchi’s signature use of leather and orris following closely behind giving the scent even more thickness. A touch of peach and a whisper of castoreum interpret the contrast between sweet innocence, and filthy desires. It smells like a close encounter between two esteemed members of society who are already betrothed to someone else. I absolutely love it, words cannot describe how much I love it. This scent fits my tastes perfectly - a dense, leathery Chypre with an overdose of vintage-style florals and woods. This is easily my favourite creation I’ve tried from Francesca Bianchi, I would even consider calling this a masterpiece.

Tyger Tyger imitates the powerful contraposition between a highly sophisticated and refined civilisation managing to survive in a dark and fearful post-apocalyptic world. The juxtaposition between light and dark in this scent is gorgeously thought provoking, and leaves you questioning which side of yourself you want to indulge today. A delectable sweetness dominates here, but not in a typical gourmand fashion. Indolic white flowers, namely tuberose, provide an essence of innocent sweet fruitiness which is then elevated by the indulgence of sticky honeyed peaches. To contrast, a dark and mysterious base of thick leather and patchouli pull you in deeper. Surprisingly, there is no orris listed here which is unusual for Bianchi, however the powdery and creamy facets of sandalwood, oakmoss and heliotrope more than make up for it. I can see why this is one of the more popular fragrances from this house, it is absolutely beautiful. Bianchi’s true talent is best demonstrated when it comes to combining such conflicting notes together and have it somehow come out smelling smooth and rounded. Definitely among my favourites.

Sex and the Sea Neroli is currently the only ‘flanker’ from Francesca Bianchi, but it’s a glorious one at that. It’s very much got a similar scent profile to the original, with its sultry combination of tropical fruits, sweaty skin and a salty sea spray, but this time feels much brighter, sunnier and with a bit more innocence. In my mind, Sex on the Sea is very much what it describes in the name - a hot, sweaty sexual encounter on the beach. The Neroli rendition, to me, feels like the same encounter but in the moments leading up to it, when you’re still clothed, feeling fresh with the soft scent of clean linen and your white floral perfume filling the air around you - before things get dirty. It smells absolutely delightful, but I question whether it’s necessary to own both. Personally I much prefer the original as I love that sensual, dirty feel lingering in the background but this version is much easier to wear and far more palatable. I’ll probably end up buying both I imagine, this DNA is one of my favourites for the summer.

Etruscan Water takes inspiration partly from citric moss-heavy colognes from the golden age of men’s perfumery, but also Bianchi’s personal memories of an Italian summer growing up in the South of Tuscany. It’s a scent which whisks you away to a place free of worry and doubt, and as someone who has spent many summers in the Mediterranean, feels very special to me. Bianchi describes a brief walk through the woods to get to a small cove beach, with the overwhelming smell of dry Mediterranean vegetation reacting with the heat - this is not a smell you can describe, but only experience for yourself, however Bianchi has recreated it beautifully here. An array of invigorating citrus fruits and ambergris represent the subtle salty spray of the sea soothing your sun-kissed skin. All this rests on a beautiful base of leathery labdanum and a hefty dose of oakmoss. This scent is absolutely sublime, a significant step away from Bianchi’s usual dark, heavy and erotic fragrances and yet, it’s one of my absolute favourites. I would even go as far to say it’s an absolute masterpiece, perfectly recreating such a special memory which many of us in Europe can link to a specific time and place in our memories.

The Black Knight envisions a setting surrounding an Italian mercenary captain of the Medici family during the Renaissance, picturing his military camp in the low light of the evening, pondering about what the day ahead might bring - death or glory? At the centre of the composition is leather, complimented of course by a dense powdery orris and oakmoss which represents the dusty thick smells of of leather horse tacks. To contrast, patchouli, cedarwood and Vetiver take shape to give the impression of a gently burning campfire nearby, without being overtly smoky or off-putting. Finally, a subtle honeyed sweetness of nearby shrubs, emanating their aromatic glory in the humidity of an Italian night. All of this combined creates the most serene picture, yet the vulnerability of the night comes out with a hefty dose of cumin. It’s utterly glorious, one of the bolder leather scents Francesca has made. It took some time for me to form a proper relationship with this scent but the imagery was there right from the initial spray - this scent really takes you on a journey and it’s done to perfection.