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Jaguar Jaguar Classic Red

Jaguar Classic Red

When will I ever learn eh? I blind bought this because I'm a bit obsessed with Jaguar fragrances at the moment. I never realised just how many there were out there, I know there's not that many compared to some brands but they seem to keep popping up in TK Maxx. Following a quick check on here I think to myself I'll have a punt on a little 40ml of this or that. I own one of the Loewe Solo line and Jag Red is compared to Absoluto (probably my favourite of those) add that to the comparisons with BMen and I figured it was a no brainer, but more about that in a minute. Generally speaking Jaguar Red is a fruity, oriental fragrance which is in keeping with the last one I got Jaguar Gold but they both suffer from what I've dubbed the 'Dunhill effect'. Nice ideas which come from diferent places to the mainstream but just kinda cheaply executed. In fairness to Dunhill though they have some real unique releases like Edition. Anyway...Red opens up very strangely indeed with a clean, kind of bandage smell, and not something particularly pleasant, which had me thinking 'This is nothing like BMen!!!' as I had read in the comment below. Then after 30 seconds or so is transformed with a tart fruitiness, the raspberry, blueberry and bergamot must conspire to make a kind of sweet/sour rhubarb aroma and there it is....sure enough...BMen. This is quite miraculous really but not the end of the story because that 'bandage' weirdness does come back to haunt in the drydown. For the main part though it's a very interesting vibe, worthy of Mugler himself, a dirty vanilla, patchouli, extremely complex in nature with a little tar and wood in there. Unfortunately this doesn't last that long before it enters another phase which effectly and gradually strips those fascinating qualities down to a cheap, much cleaner but unnerving skin scent. I think the bandage thing I described fits in with the comparisons to the Loewe Solo line, all of which have this quality but in them it seems more deliberate, this just seems a bit hap hazard and messy. It's not bad though and it certainly created some interest. Red is a worthy BMen substitute at least for a while, with comparative performance but don't go thinking you've found a replacement for the increasingly scarce Mugler because it ain't.

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Pierre Guillaume Paris Cuir Venenum 03

Cuir Venenum 03

Pierre Guillaume Paris

This fragrance immediately reminded me of an extremely specific time and place. The scenario was...Drinking wine at my firends house. When I asked my partner to try this perfume and then I described what I thought, and she said..."Yeah it's totally that....It's incense and cheap candles." The bitchy comment about these particular friends aside, she's kinda right. The opening is a syrupy resin and orange blossom a sweet, messy construction but with a hippy joss stick backbone I'm assuming from myrrh. It's quite linear and not really what I would describe as leathery in the dry down but I recognise this 'leather' accord from other fragrances so I know it's considered acceptable to describe it in those terms. The wine element is interesting, not that it smells of wine but evoked memories of drinking the stuff, thought provoking I guess. I don't like this and I don't want to smell of it, although the drydown is a little bit nicer. I'd give it a miss. Update: It's funny what 12 months and a revisit can yield, I actually really like this fragrance now. The opening is a transparent floral musk, with some sweet element, progressing into a leathery drydown which is absolutely fantastic. It's not a full on leather accord, just a gently leathery spine with some fresher resin notes and a tiny hint of smoke. The floral/leathery nature and hint of honied sweetness reminds me somewhat of immortelle but it's clearly not immortelle if that makes even the tiniest bit of sense? I'm really enjoying this today.

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Tom Ford Oud Wood Intense

Oud Wood Intense

Worn this twice now and it's not made a massive impression on me to be honest. I like it, and it's interesting to see these 'Intense' versions released within the Tom Ford Private blend line. I never really understood the masses of praise heaped on the original Oud Wood, it's okay but weirdly aloof and medicinal for such, across the board praise, I would've thought. Guess I'm wrong again. This Intense version is not a heightened version of the original and I for one am glad, to say it's not even remotely similar isn't strictly true because a hint of the accord pokes it's head out when it settles. This is probably due to the oud component being similar. Oud Wood Intense however is a much more rubbery and authentic mixed woody affair, with an opening of cypress and animal notes. It's a moody scent but never dark, more cuddly and drying down to a kind of leather smell perhaps with hints of tobacco? Is this going to be as popular as the original...I doubt it and suspect some might not even enjoy it at all, but there can be no doubt what we have here is another high quality edition to the Tom Ford line. I mentioned I've worn it twice and would definitely wear it again, perhaps I will fall for it then who knows. Worth a sniff though for sure.

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Nasomatto Baraonda

I must be seriously missing something here because I didn't like this. No scratch that....It's very difficult for me to dislike something, I could tolerate it, even enjoy aspects of it but put together Baraonda doesn't work for me. The opening to me smells like raspberry/strawberry, unctuously sweet and feminine with a jammy rose note. I didn't actually read the notes beforehand and sometimes alcohol notes can be hard to define but there's an undoubtedly malty, boozy note of positive whisky, which started to emerge. This leads into a chunkier and more Nasomatto base of musk mallow and modern amber. It's alright, I can see why fans of the slightly unusual would enjoy this. It comes from a more indy perfume place and is truly trying to innovate reminscent of slumberhouse or 4160 Tuesdays, something like that. I equate Baraonda to when contestants on Masterchef insist that wacky flavour combinations like, Halibut and stawberry compote go together, despite the experts warning them prior that "...They absolutely won't!" but they persevere anyway and their resulting dish is a disaster. Actually that might be a bad example because at least some balance is displayed here and the tart sweetness of the opening is counteracted by the robust whisky...I just don't like it is all. I will give it another chance to convince me but I'm always intrigued when there's love for something I don't understand. Generally speaking there's some degree of consensus among fragrance heads and the relatively easily pleased like myself, but I feel on the outside looking in with this one.

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Jaguar Jaguar Classic Gold

Jaguar Classic Gold

I checked the notes before blind buying this and I was maybe expecting something a little like Boss Bottled, probably because I saw apple and vanilla among the notes. You do get that, sort of. I've never tried Dunhill Desire Red but if this is similar then I'm not missing all that much. I don't hate it, in fact the very deep drydown is amazing but we will get to that in a moment. The opening is a potently tart, sweetness with citrus but an over all feel of sensual warmth of woody vanilla. My problem is that it smells a little cheap and something I don't dislike but I'm not crazy about either. There's depth there but it's confused and crowd pleasing for the same reason I'm not mad about 1 Million or Eros. I believe there's an incense/resin/amber smell in Jaguar Classic Gold which really reveals itself in the drydown. It kinda became similar to CdG Florential, a kinda berry like resinous smell that's quite lovely. All that was lurking underneath a slightly harsh, cheesy fragrance...I'm definitely going to wear it. Performance was pretty good too.

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Imaginary Authors Slow Explosions

Slow Explosions

Imaginary Authors

My review is more of a straight up appraisal than a poetic ode to Slow Explosions...but it's deserving of them. The review below mine hits it pretty much spot on, the opening is a hell of a saffron note and nothing slow about that explosion, to my nose. It's rough, raw and rubbery, stinging the nose but imparting a beautiful earthy, expensive and unique smell that only saffron can. I don't understand why I love saffron so much? It's not really what I would describe as a 'nice' smell, it's complex and hard to get along with but narcotically enchanting and addictive. What is clever about Slow explosions is it's kinda cool and transparent yet with some hot, oriental bite. Then as it settles the acidic cider/apple note pokes out it's head and we start to get a gentle, wafting rose, which is reminiscent of something like a Dior Ambre nuit type rose note. The mid section becomes pot pouri, not in a bad sense but took me back to a shop I used to go in as a child, dry rose petals and sandalwood. It's then a smooth landing in the drydown, cashmerian and soft leather and still hints of the saffron. Performance is okay but nothing phenomenal, I can still smell it after 6 hours but very faintly. So..... Great composition, nice journey and an interesting scent but after all that...I still don't reckon I'd wear it. Josh Meyer never fails to create interest. Update: 14/02/23 Look this is a phenomenal piece of work, wearing it again the other week I realised just how great this is. The bravery of the saffron and honey working in tandem to create a totally unique and almost offputtingly arty opening to this perfume, it seems crude, unrefined in some way. Then it opens out and rounds off but never loses it's core theme of excitement. This is such a high concept, pure idea conveyed with such clarity to me, it's chinese new year, it's Cai Guo-Qiang's artwork, it's fireworks, explosions but they ain't slow, at least not to begin with. I adore this perfume and must have it in my collection.

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Art de Parfum Signature Wild

This is a soft, effeminate, cream puff of a fragrance but I couldn't be more excited about it. It's not the bold, brash chameleon we tend to want unknown niche fragrance like this to be, and although delicate, is full of interesting facets. Immediately reminded me of a more complicated version of Donna Karan Fuel for Men and for that reason I can't understand why sandalwood is so low on the note votes, but there you go. The opening is sweet and powerful but fleeting mixture of fruits and orange blossom, then gives way to a prominent and biting labdanum which acts as the middle ground to what Wild eventually becomes, and that's a powdery, woody scent. This is mainly a milky santal and clean, soapy spice of cardamom but with hints artemisia and exotic resin. The drydown is what I'd call 'white leather' it's soft and almost make up like which is probably what gives this such a feminine lean. As I mentioned I think it's got that crayons and epitome of 'powdery notes' smell, reminding me of not just Fuel but a couple of others like Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena and Atelier cologne Santal Carmin. I think with leather and heavier notes this perfume is elevated to one of the best in this style I've tried. Thoroughly enjoyed this one.

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BeauFort London Iron Duke

BeauFort London

I loved Tonnare and was equally interested what else BeauFort had to offer and this one didn't disappoint. The opening is absolutely heavenly improving on a Nasomatto type theme by just making things a little more grown up and evoking a time and place gone by. I'd say it's smoky but not in the usual and obvious way, and resinous in an almost gourmand sense but savory...if that makes any sense? The rum is adding it's booziness, the gunpowder works right through to the dry down giving an amazing quality and freshening proceedings with hints of earth, metal and greenness. Then the tobacco resides in the heart of Iron Duke. Notes which are all plainly displayed in a quite brilliant composition that dries down to a real and sumptuous leather but with that resinous woody quality there too. This is a triumph of a fragrance, brilliantly realised, well balanced and oozing with quality. The fragrance starts out fantastically and dries down to a mature and earthy smell, which I can't fault in any way. The name of this fragrance is fitting right from the first sniff....Iron Duke is not the sledgehammer you might expect and definitely shows more restraint that Tonnare. Both share the bold, refined and considered qualities which seem to be the calling card of this house.

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Imaginary Authors Every Storm a Serenade

Every Storm a Serenade

Imaginary Authors

I sampled this because I liked the name but when I read the notes was preparing myself for an experience outside of my tastes. However, I actually really enjoyed Every storm a serenade, it opens up with a pine freshness from spruce and a hint of ucalyptus, with a minty, salty sea breeze and vetiver. Ambergris with that calone accord just grows until drying down to something less appealing in the form or the milky, seaside thing I’d been expecting from the off, but by that point it had charmed me. This is a artisan aquatic perfume who’s MO I understand and quite enjoyed because it’s mellow and not too invasive but lasted well and changed all the while.

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Etat Libre d'Orange Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade

Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade

Etat Libre d'Orange

This is one of the most stunning and well realised and unadulterated labdanum fragrances I’ve ever smelled. I wouldn’t of minded it being sharper, harsher and less balanced but Marquis de Sade gives up every facet of incense and resin from bright, frankinscense type freshness to dry benzoin warmth and the spicy density of tolu balm, yet with its own quality too. Labdanum is my favourite ingredient in perfumery with good reason and easily complex enough to star solo in a perfume. The only thing that prevents me from buying this straight away, outright and with no hesitation, is the performance or lack thereof. Labdanum is a notorious catalyst, designed for use within a composition and despite smelling heavenly is like most resins, they go on heavy and luxurious but it’s a bit of an illusion as they fade rapidly. I’m also not sure this is raw or daring enough to bear the name Marquis de Sade. I’m not one to moan about performance but gone after two hours ain’t good enough or worth the money, although I love the smell so much I might reassess that in the future.

Just to add to my already gushing review below, I tried this again the other day as I'd had a discussion with another Labdanum lover online. I actually played down my love of it, perhaps because the memory of trying it wasn't that fresh, and I'd hoped performance would've been better. However, all these fears have been allayed as this is a fantastic fragrance which lasted very well this time around and was my only minor gripe previously because the smell is my idea of heaven. Shame it's sold out at the retailer who had it for the best price because I'm over the moon with it and need it in my life.

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Pierre Guillaume Paris Long Courrier

Pierre Guillaume Paris

A very enjoyable and interesting fragrance, to be honest it opened differently to how I expected. I figured there would be a bright citrus blast from the elemi, which would die a relatively quick death but to my surprise the vanilla was the first hit and it's a very clean, custard like vanilla which proceeds to get a bit dirtier as it settles. By this point the elemi is chiming giving an incense and grapefruit like sharpness but Long courrier is a gourmand experience in the main and caramel like without being overly sugary or sweet, maybe it's some bitterness from the cacao? The balance of the fragrance as it dries down is excellent and the orange note is absolutely clear to me, reminiscent of an orange liquor or something, I'm surprised it's not been voted up more. I'll tell you what this fragrance reminds me of and it's the L’Art et la Matière line from Guerlain, that custard-esque vanilla heart but with warm resinous, woody qualities and clear, well executed, long lasting fruity hints. Long courrier's dry down speaks of much warmer resins of benzoin....so Benzoin and vanilla is basically 'amber' right? ... well not really because the elemi lightens the vibe somewhat. It's a clever scent, likeable and quite a classy smell. The fact it has me arguing with myself is proof positive of that, but I'm not sure I'd wear it. The jury is still out for me on the combination of bright/green/fizzy resins and vanilla bases, It's like making a white russian then topping it up with lemonade or making a ruby grapefruit cheese cake....is acidity and creaminess a good mix? I know we have established that this is warmer and woodier than that and that the balance is classy and puts me in mind of Guerlain, I'm just not sure why something with so many elements I enjoy, isn't launching me into olfactory heaven? A good fragrance then which is clearly thought provoking, with a mellow dry down and acceptable performance, it's a thumbs up but many not one I want to add to the wardrobe.....yet.

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Extrait de Parfum

Oud Extrait de Parfum

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Oh Lord! I can't wait to try this. The original EDP is one of the most interesting oud fragrances ever made. The silk/satin etc... moods were kinda the first extension of this but more rosey or amber like or whatever. With a bit of luck this will stick to the original and be like the harshest (in a good way) saffron opening to divine and precious Laotian oud. To be honest the original is potent enough but in the form of a extrait, I'm thinking it could potentially be mind blowing. For one reason or another I never bought MFK Oud despite my love and praise but this version might tip me over the edge despite it being more expensive more than likely.

Finally got my nose and this and I have to say Mr Kurkdjian this is a sublime creation, absolutely what I was anticipating, the amped up Oud Extrait I’d hoped for. Essentially there’s nothing new in here except for more being even more luxurious than the EDP. The opening plays around even less but still gives you an almost bright, stinging sharp resinous quality of Elemy, a ton of long lasting and dominant saffron on that loasian oud which keeps coming and coming. Hate to lower the tone here but ( I’m going to anyway), I would equate MFK Oud to an acid trip, just when you’re beginning to get your head around the turbulent first hour or so...the effects just keep coming on stronger and stronger in waves, until the drydown which is mellow and relaxed with any perceived hard edges smoothed away into a blissful landing. I love this fragrance and I’m going to purchase it, although I’ve been saying that about the original since about 2013 but hey.

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Gucci Gucci Bloom

I quite like the design of this simple, pastel oblong and it's rare that I say this but I was attracted to try it by the bottle. The good points and bad points about Bloom are the same...hear me out. This is not a power Tuberose/Jasmine fragrance and that is both a saving grace and a downfall depending on how you see it. I'd say I dislike Tuberose but I can appreciate some facets of it and when it's high quality I kinda marvel at it's pungent power but wonder how anyone could ever wear it? Then there's the cheap variety which smell awful...I'd say Bloom is somewhere in between. I know the name is pretty self explanatory but I expected some sort of base other than loads of flowers, to the point where it's quite indistinct and a little lacking in clarity and focus. I'm not a massive florals fan and I'm a man so this is not aimed at me anyway but I found nothing about the composition new or exciting.

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Gucci Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme

Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Femme

I was very shocked by how good the men's version of this was, a herbal, leathery brew of real power and originality something which I would've never associated with the limp and frankly awful Guilty line before it's release. So I was expecting great things from the female version and to a greater extent I got them. Guilty absloute pour femme is arguably more tailored to my personal tastes than the men's one, a fruity, balasmic deeply woody fragrance with a heart of jammy rose. The opening reminds me slightly of a plum japonais and a bit like Cdg floriental as it becomes warm and resinous, then there's a patchouli and rose heart that is sweet but earthy, a little noir de noir ish, only sweeter and still with those berry notes chiming throughout. The drydown is more roses and wood, very subtle, low lying and calm, still tiny hints of the jammy fruit in there. It lasted very well but wasn't strong by any stretch of the imagination. I'd give it a huge thumbs up and might well have added to my collection right away, especially for the beautifully coloured flacon...but for one thing. The price. Now I'm someone who has splashed on overly expensive perfume before now but I found £95 for a 90ml a little rich even for my blood. Gucci and other designers must feel they can push the price tag if they are offering this kind of 'niche quality' eau de parfum. Maybe they have a point but it put me off. I can't remember what I paid for the men's version, maybe it was a comparable sum...I can't remember but that one compelled me instantly this will is obviously not as persuasive. Great to see Gucci with two awesome releases on the bounce though.

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Olfactive Studio Close Up

Olfactive Studio

Olfactive studios Close up. Now! Let's just take into account that I had preconceived ideas and judgements on this fragrance before I'd even tried it and I'm not too proud to say when I'm wrong as equally as I like to gloat and highlight the fact when my predictions are accurate...this one falls more into the latter category. The main thing I notice about Olfactive Studios fragrances is that they try to be innovative and in this industry I have to give them credit for that. The briefs and concepts the perfumers/house come up with never fail to intrigue but unfortunately they never quite deliver a long lasting and enjoyable fragrance throughout. Superb and unique openings...disappointing performance/drydown/overall experience. One day I'm sure they will crack this and we will have a real winner on our hands. God loves a trier and they are always worth a sniff. The opening is intoxicating like a silky, coffee infused breeze of milky, musky woods. Then there's that hint of the honied Tobacco and a pinch of cherry, cough drop warmness and excitement. The mid section of this fragrance is basically warm and cozy, resinous benzoin and that slight coffee/vanilla vibe of tonka bean, tempered with the powdery chocolate cacao and earth of patchouli. Its strangely masculine leaning but also reminds me quite a deal of something a more mature lady might wear. The finish and dry down are nice, lots more honey and that spiced feel, which smells almost identical to Parfum de Marly Oajan a fragrance I'm extremely fond of. The main difference is there's less of that hot, cinnimal edge in this but the transformation from smelling a bit similar in the opening and first hour to almost exactly the same is pretty miraculous. Despite this, I think these fragrances are different enough to both have merit and it's still worth owning both, if you wanted to. So in the deep dry down and Close up changes again, becoming less like Oajan and much more resinous and oozing a kind of ancient dustiness. I wouldn't say this is strong but it projected quite well for the first couple of hours, then becoming a low lying skin scent but very persistent and I noticed it stained my skin very slightly. My conclusion is that Close up is one of the best releases from OS to date. A very enjoyable fragrance indeed and the order of how the notes come through is interesting. It's a thumbs up from me. Update: Okay so I penned this review nearly 12 months ago and it’s been sitting on my phone unposted so I feel the need to make some amendments. My general thoughts are the same but upon wearing again I get a very animal, pissy note in the opening which is extremely off putting. It’s unusual and I’m not just saying this for melodrama or comic effect but I thought for a moment....”has my cat had a piss in here? “ It’s very prominent and why the hell I didn’t notice it the first time I don’t know? Even if you just put the spray nozzle to your nose it’s obvious, however as the fragrance settles it becomes that cherry, Tobacco, honey thing I mentioned in the main body of the review. I still like it, when the urine subsides. That’s not really a sentence I ever imagined writing but there you go.

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Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum

Sauvage Eau de Parfum

I'm keeping this brief because I can't believe the amount of times I've gone to write a review for this and the original and either half written it lost it or whatever I think someone somewhere doesn't want me to review this perfume. So much was subsequently said in forums and online that my thoughts on the original would've been insignificant by the time I'd actually managed to pen a review so I didn't bother. The main things were that I enjoyed the minimal ambroxan construction and actually like the mixture of a citrus note a kind of mossy masculine note and a clean, warm base. It's simple but I also kinda understand why people don't like it, not least the fact that I've been smelling it everywhere for the past couple of years. This parfum version is much the same as the other recent parfum releases from Dior like Fahrenheit and Homme, it's got a slightly different opening (unfortunately I don't get the star anise promised here) and an more heavy feel for a bit anyway. Then it effectively just dries down to the same scent as the original. If you are expecting a huge difference, prepare to be disappointed. I bought this because I quite fancied the original and took the opportunity to get this now it's been released. Even the silage and longevity are the same....MASSIVE. So no difference there. Not in a good quality way but rather a necessity to make the general guy choke out the club with it on a Friday night. I like it, I like ambroxan...sorry. I think this is masculine and I never got it at first but now I get there's a hint of Aventus about it but only at a distance...which is weird.

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Frederic Malle Monsieur

I'm not a big patchouli guy or at least I never used to be and especially when it's delivered in such a linear way. However, over the past few years I've started to really dig a soily patch and found the opening of this scent to be incredibly bracing. It's a mixture of a big, boozy, smoky incense and I even get a sort of bitter orange in the very beginning then the patchouli starts growing and growing to an earthy crescendo. There's a sharp, burning, herbal, minty, menthol quality to it as well. I can't help thinking about the name of this one and patchouli wasn't always something I necessarily associated with masculine perfumery but I suppose it really is... that dirty kind of oily quality reminds me of working on cars or something? (PC Police: I'm not saying women don't work on cars.) Anyway the huge let down with this fragrance is that it goes on MASSIVE and then is very poor on longevity thereafter...I got a few hours out of it. I'm intrigued by the geranium version though. UPDATE: Let me just readdress this and add a caveat to my review because upon wearing it for a second time today, I'm pretty taken with this fragrance. The base is actually much more sensual and deep than I expected, and rooted in a dry, sandpaper rough, amber accord but with facets of labdanum and moments of sharpness & brightness in there. I really like it and it appears to be lasting much better on me this time as I went in a bit hard on it for having poor longevity, I just think it dies to a skin scent quicker than expected but remains for hours....and what a skin scent....the drydown is lovely. I judged it a little quickly but I'm still hoping the geranium one will deliver more. UPDATE 2: 27/04/21 I'm on a big Malle kick at the minute, revisiting and renewing my opinions on this brilliant line. Monsieur is a big part of that because I know it's great, I know it is, and looking back on my review here I've little to add. It's a case of, do I find it's presence (or lack thereof) worth the money?, and I'm no Longevity queen, I'll wear a fleeting eau de cologne, I will but there's probably other Malle's I need first. Just to reiterate this is an amazing take on a modern, masculine patchouli, the intensity and darkness yet clarity of the opening is really something to behold, but while French Lover and Geranium pour monsieur hold your attention and evolve all the while from exciting opening to glorious base, this one kinda fizzles out a bit, which is a shame.

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Guerlain Eau de Guerlain

Eau de Guerlain

I'm revisiting these classic Guerlain fragrances because they are excellent and I feel I need to review them as they have more historic significance than many perfumes out there. It's hard not to love this, simplicity and complexity in a bottle, the bright, invigorating citrus and mint, a hint of white florals, green notes and lavender then the wholeness but gentile application of a musky oakmoss it's a class act. I don't know who compared it to Ninfeo mio a great scent and similar I suppose in the top notes but the base is very different. For an EDT in the cologne style and even in the latest formulation, I found it lasted better than Imperial and Coq for example. This is a brilliant and refreshing scent.

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Xerjoff Cruz Del Sur II

Cruz Del Sur II

I'd say I get more guava and mango in the opening than pineapple and that is a massive positive...I love a tropical, fruity perfumes and I was waiting for Xerjoff to give me the best I'd ever had, transporting me to a paradise...but Cruz del sur II doesn't quite pull it off. I'm not sure what it is? The quality is undoubtedly there but no 'shade' could be the issue here, this beach needs a palm tree. To say it smells like a glade home fragrance is a little unfair, Cruz del sur II does have a great complex opening. The milky, vanilla base is interesting and does feel like a positive 'milk' note, but equally comes off as coconut against those tropical fruits. After they die it's a very feminine, soft and one dimensional, creamy powder of a fragrance with a lot of pastel, exotic floral notes coming through. It's not for me.

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Xerjoff Cruz Del Sur I

I was looking forward to trying Cruz del sur I & II but neither have really met my expectations. This one opens very strangely indeed and has a signature Xerjoff opulence about it, I don't find the mixture of an animalic, but modern IBQ driven, leather accord, boozy fruits and smoky resins appealing at first but as this thing progresses it gets much nicer. After about five hours it's now a boozy, rum and minced fruit cake of loveliness, with hints of the animal leather and sharp labdanum and myrrh but much tamer and easier to handle now. Rewind to the opening and it was knocking me sick with it's spiced diesel fumes and stinky animal musk but with all the nice things I've mentioned too, all at the same time.... Cruz del sur I is an insane, statement fragrance. It's no joke and reminds me of loads of different fragrances non of which I can recall right now due to the sensory overload I'm experiencing. Full of intrigue this one, great performance and if you can wait out the initial harshness, a blissful drydown. When I say it reminds me of other fragrances, it totally does, but has so many phases and notes that it is unique in a sense as well, and who doesn't like a fragrance that is multifaceted even if you probably wouldn't wear it and definitely couldn't afford it.

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Bella Bellissima Precious Amber

Bella Bellissima

I'll just start by saying that I'm a massive fan of this house, I respect the refined range, the fact that a small outfit got an exclusive with Selfridges and has since branched out (I think?) and just generally love the perfumes Noble Incense and White Leather are brilliant. Even if they were all just tried and tested formulas and rehashings, I'd still like them because the quality is undeniable. Bella Bellisima's range isn't that though, they are memorable and different scents, I think Vetiver Spice is the best Vetiver I've ever smelled, and no one seems to be aware of it. Anyway....against that backdrop of my obvious bias I have to say that Precious Amber is equally brilliant as well. However, I would add there's nothing very new in here but it can be forgiven just for being so damn lovely. I did try it in store when this lie was first introduced and thought it was a hugely sweet resinous rose perfume and it turns out I still think that, but I had to get a recent sample to make sure. The opening isn't so lovely a very chemical, burning, harsh representation of resin and the jammiest, sweetest rose note which truly has a fruity, sugary nature to it. However, as it dies back becomes a very rich amber rose which constantly changes throughout, lightly spiced and definitely on the feminine side. My favourite part is when it has completely dried down to almost nothing, a subtle skin scent of the most lovely variety...I adore it at this stage. If you're a big rose fan this would worth checking out, It's full of amber but not conventional in that sense so amber fans might look elsewhere. Despite Precious Amber's initial potency it's not that much of beast and lasted very well but disappeared completely after 8 hours, still a respectable innings. Undeniable quality yet again from Bella Bellisima.

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Roja Dove London

I haven't even looked at the price but if you have to be concerned about such things....you can't afford it, and I can't afford it. I usually wait until I've worn a fragrance a couple of times or at least until the latter stages before even contemplating a review but this one had me excited. I let out an audible, semi orgasmic sigh of absolute satisfaction when I first sprayed this. Roja Dove's London is supreme, the reason for this is clear right from the start...possibly my favourite ingredient...Labdanum. London screams labdanum, the opening is sharp, making your nose tingle and the intense resinous nature is immediately apparent. The opening is beautiful and combines a host of other notes clove, cardamom saffron but frankly they are short lived and the life of this fragrance is in the incense. It's a heady mixture which changes all the while from effervescent olibanum/galbanum to darker chunkier more spiced tones of tolu balsam and then the dry, dusty benzoin. I think that's just the wonderful nature of labdanum, it's kinda all those things at the same time. The base is soft deep deep woods I think there's even a hint of vanilla in there just to round out what is an excellent fragrance. The performance was good as expected and opening aside, the transitions even within an accord of resins just speak to how complex they are in their own right. I loved Roja Dove's London and if money was no object I'd buy it tomorrow.

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Armaf Club de Nuit Intense

Club de Nuit Intense

Finally received this in the post after being intrigued for some time and yes at first sniff it does resemble NdN but that's not quite the whole story. Tom Ford's Noir de Noir was a scent that was never a big deal to me and I genuinely couldn't see what the fuss was all about at first...It was just a very nice rose based perfume. However, after several wears over the years and a mini I occasionally dip into, I grew to understand that it was a pretty special fragrance, not too rosey but enjoyable and uplifting even. So the prospect of a cheaper alternative became very appealing and Club de Nuit Intense smells a hell of a lot like it. Crucial difference being after it settles the patchouli is more prominent, more quickly. Some would argue that's not much of a difference but try them side by side and you will notice what I mean. Other than that the opening is pretty much Identical, I'd say NdN seems a little jammier and sweeter in general but it really is slitting hairs. Also the choclately element a little cacao puff in both is present but as I mentioned the CdNI seems to be a little earthier patch. They both evoke Turkish delight and velvety, purple evening wear. I'm really glad I got this, because although I have rose fragrances I've nothing quite like this. Now I've never found NdN to be a big performer and this seems to sit low in exactly the same way, which I'm happy with to be honest because there's nothing worse than being choked out by your own rose perfume. A brilliant blind buy thanks to the reliable folks in the fragrance community bigging this one up now for some time.

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Swiss Arabian Layali CPO

When I read the notes for this I was thinking what will an Arabic take on a fruity scent be? It's pretty much what I expected in some respects but I'm also glad there's not a hint of rose or oud or the usual stuff that despite not being listed, can loom large. The opening is a turbo charged explosion of fruits, mainly plum, dark berries and blackcurrant but some exotic smell too, perhaps coming from the ylang ylang and jasmine. Layali is a upbeat and uplifting scent which instantly reminded me of my childhood and specifically a leisure centre where I used to do martial arts. It wasn't the sweat, rubber mats and chlorine though but maybe some sweets I had in the foyer or the slush puppy machines and canteen area...I don't actually know? but it's always fascinating when fragrance can transport you back to a time you'd buried deep in your subconscious. Anyway...the thing which makes this fragrance is the olfactory nosedive it takes as it settles down, very clever and totally needed to counteract the heady nature of the oriental flowers and strong fruity notes. The element I'm talking about is cumin or a curry spice note which just pokes it's head out, deep into the composition and frankly without it this scent would be nice but nothing to get excited about. It's the same way a fecal or animal note adds to a perfume just giving some shade to all that brightness. Hugely strong to begin with but I actually found it not too strong in the end and performance was good. Layali put me slightly in mind of Enchanted forest and Byredo Pulp due to the blackcurrant and plum notes respectively. Very good stuff though and a excellent flacon, an interesting blind buy that I thankfully don't regret because to me it's not a perfume taking itself too seriously. Layali is a bit of fun.

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