Latest User Reviews

When you live in a pineapple under the sea, but you’ve converted it to a Harley Davidson showroom.

We’re encountering a rose who is not just a protagonist in a horror film, but perhaps the film–a cursed film–itself. And not some schlocky nonsense that’s all jump scares and genre cliches, we’re talking the last violently spine-tingling, pants-shittingly terrifying film you saw and that you’ve begun to have ghastly nightmares about which are starting to eerily echo and reverberate through your waking hours. Court of Ravens by 4160 Tuesdays is, in short, and on paper, an incensey rose chypre--but rumors are the incense component is the boiling blood of a mad cultist mixed with strange and stinging otherworldly herbs, the rose grew sickly and sinister on the unmarked grave of a hanged murderer, and the chypre, well, it’s the usual materials of oakmoss and balsamic elements, but pounded on an ancient black altar to an oozing paste along with a secret number of drops from a cracked, cloudy bottle, and I don’t know what’s in that esoteric essence, but it smells shockingly of acrid fright-sweat, bitter adrenaline, and is underscored by a host of sharp, burning pheromones. So, you have probably reached the conclusion that I must love this, and you’re right, and I’m glad you guys can read between the lines.

Destrier from House of Matriarch is perhaps the first leather scent I have ever not just tolerated but actually liked. I’m not sure if I’m even a leather fan, but I appreciate that this one just goes so hard. It is not putting on airs, and it’s not in disguise; there is no mistaking it. AND it’s a rather 360° immersive scent experience as well as absolutely immediate, with no lead-in or preamble. Imagine you are an overachieving LARPer, and you took three years of leatherworking classes so that you could make the perfect leather coin pouch to hang from your belt for this intensely anticipated festival you’ve been dying to attend. Even though it’s a tiny piece of a larger, more intricate costume, you want every detail absolutely perfect, from the tanning to the stitching to the embossing. You’ve spent so much time on this accessory that you’re smelling those tanning agents, those fats and oils and chemicals and musks, even in your dreams now. And in waking life, too, even after the event, you are one with that leather coin purse, and you carry it with you everywhere you go. At this point in time, it is stuffed with cedar chips, sweet grasses, and soft moss…because you spent all your coins on those expensive classes and leatherworking tools.

Is Penhaligon’s Babylon meant to evoke Babylon, the den of iniquity and pinnacle of sin? Or perhaps that groovy Satanic prostitute, arrayed in purple and scarlet, decked with pearls and precious stones, with her golden cup spilling with abominations and filthiness? I’m not sure this softly-spiced, velvet-wooded fragrance is as outrageous or dramatic as all of that. Imagine that golden cup, surely sensationalized to pique public indignation, was instead some sort of humble, unassuming vessel, a bowl of roughly carved but fragrant sandalwood, filled with a milky liquid, redolent of honeyed saffron, the aromatic, earthy warmth of nutmeg and coriander’s peppery-aniseed camphor, and delicately resinous, subtly smoky vanilla. If you’re a fan of Dior’s Hypnotic Poison, but don’t love that obnoxious root beer note, I think you’d find Babylon a more tasteful and understated option. I do enjoy this scent immensely, but I’d still like to smell a more vivid and exuberant perfumed interpretation of this apocalyptic beauty.

The opening is a beautiful almost realistic crystalline camphor. Not intense or overpowering, but more like a medicinal shampoo. There's a faint spicy and warmth from pepper, and a not too sweet, but juicy fruitiness.

Drying down the camphor softens and mixed with the musc becomes almost like a perfumed talc.

A little gentle spicy remains but hard to identify if that's from the incense, patchouli, or resins.

A really lovely scent, and worth a sample at least !

Bright, strong, green citrus. Herbal green lavender, delicate white flowers. Woody and almostly lactonic sandalwood rounding everything.

The musk in the beginning is not dark, but definitely a skin like quality, almost lactonic. Like a baby.

I'm actually surprised how much I like it this time. I tried it first a few months ago and it was just okay. But today is the first day we had snow, and the vibe is just right and so I pulled this one out of the drawer (I have a small decant) and sprayed it three times. The longevity is quite spectacular, and the smell is wonderfully rich. I miiiiight be getting what the hype is about. I'll probably never buy a full bottle, though, it's ridiculously expensive.

The opening has a flash of bergamot giving a green citrus edge to a powerful rose and oud. What the synthetic jungle essence is, I don't know, but I find the oud to be quite chemical and rubbery. Maybe it's my skin, maybe it's the other notes mingling. It's been around 30 minutes and the rubbery smell is fading. I will update later into the dry down.

4 hours in - any harshness has gone and I now have a sweet, woody, aromatic rose oud. A little dankness there, maybe just the oud, could be the patchouli.

Rusak's site describes this scent as a “minimalist weirdo. A creature of deception. Perfume nerdery” and while I don’t actually know anything about this perfumer, I will say that this nondescription captured my imagination and which evolved into a little crush. The sort of obsession that you develop on someone you glimpsed on the subway reading a dog-eared copy of a book by your favorite author, in this case, let’s say creepy Japanese manga artist Junji Ito, and then you had a series of unsettling dreams about them, so you wrote an ode to this stranger in the local alternative paper’s missed connections section. And like Japan’s most successful and lauded horror author, Rusak has injected an extraordinarily potent amount of weirdness into this scent. Beginning with a mundane peek into the spice cabinet, you are subjected to a surreal descent into madness featuring fenugreek’s uncanny curried maple syrup-ness, a dry, itchy tingle of salty musk, an enigmatic spike of aniseed, and an oily conflagration of black pepper. I can’t make heads or tails of this scent, and as a matter of fact, I like to imagine it as a many-headed, rattle-tailed beast, much like its very name. It’s truly one of the most eccentric and singular fragrances I have ever sniffed and I stand in admiration of its sublime strangeness.

A bastion of old Hollywood and notorious celebrity hideaway, this olfactory ode to the Chateau Marmont mentions wilting roses, crisp linens, and vintage wood furniture and I do think all of that comes across. It’s an incredibly languid scent, like Lana del Rey in front of her vanity singing in a sleepy, drunken drawl into her mirror about how her moon is in Leo and her Cancer is sun, which if you ask me is a very weird way to phrase that thought. There’s dreamy indolence to this scent, moments frozen in time, captured in a Polaroid picture, dust motes floating forever above a lone rose in a chipped vase just beyond the mirror’s cloudy reflection, never settling on the bloom. A powdery musk of memory of a night that never really ended, a faded photograph that belongs to no one anymore, wrapped in tattered linen and quietly slipped under a shabby fringe of carpet in a shadowed corner of an old bungalow.

A cosy lactonic chai that envelops and comforts

To my nose, This is a patchouli, chocolate, spiced lactonic vanilla. A little almond in the opening.

A lovely scent, the notes I'm getting remind me of a Mugler DNA. This could fit in well as an A*Men flanker.

Épices immediately called to mind Audition's Asami, that icon of patient malice and elegant vengeance, trading her torture kit for a spice collection. She conjures a pristine hostess in her leather apron, each pocket meticulously lined with strategically curated powders and preparations: cardamom's strange cooling caress, coriander's numbing bite. Her cedarwood spoon dissects the mixture with surgical precision, stirring sweet-sharp resins and honeyed smoke into something exquisitely lethal. When the spices settle, they leave behind a slow dreamy surrender of soft musk and patchouli's eerie earthiness - even the deadliest hostess exacting her long game of vengeance knows the art of perfect measure.

As with most Nasomatto, the precise notes aren't listed.

Quickly this made me think of the Blazing Mr Sam from Penhaligon's although not the same of course.

It's spicy - maybe cinnamon, clove, pepper? It has the dark sweet spiced twang of patchouli, lingering over sweet leather and tobacco.

It also made me think of Ombrè Leather.

There are dark woods, with a slight oud tint to them, maybe something warming like Amber.

A truly beautiful scent

Milky, custardy pudding delicately spiced with cardamom's weirdness and melancholic orange blossom water and kooky sugared pistachios, and damn if this isn't a low-key melodramatic goth rice pudding on its way to a Cure concert.

Panda begins with an intense, dewy green accord and hints of peppery warmth that is soon followed by orange blossoms and lilies, and finally comes to rest at earthy roots and damp mosses. This is less the roly-poly panda himself and more a chronicle of his slow stroll as he journeys from mountain springs to bamboo groves, munching on stalks and leaves, and basically just living a very low-key, low-stress, serene Panda lifestyle. Much later there is the barest whiff of sandalwood; perhaps the last stop in his travels is a shadowy temple at sunset, to light a stick of incense and thank the gods for his good fortune.

This is a lush, vivacious offering brimming with a kaleidoscope of opulent fruits and honeyed florals, it calls to mind a tea party in a bright spring garden; effervescent personalities flit and flirt, while poetic dalliances occur amongst the softly blooming lilac and sweetly musky honeysuckle. Delicate nectars and sweet ambrosia is served, and later that night you dream of the sunlight glimmering through the season’s fleeting apple and plum blossoms.

Les Lunatiques is a cupped palm of night air: softly flickering mothwings at midnight, a dewy mist of cloud floating across the moon, shadow-draped blooms furled in upon themselves and dreaming, the holy gleaming poetry of cosmic light reaching us from stars long dead, and the sweet murmuring exhalations of a slumbering grove of saplings.

Glass Blooms by Regime des Fleurs is absolutely exquisite and I wish I could come up with the words to tell you just how exquisite it is but instead, all I can tell you is that it conjures the essence of the most beautiful woman in the world, or at least I thought she was, in 1982 when I was 6 years old. And also she wasn’t a woman, she wasn’t even human, she was a plastic doll made by the Kenner brand. A Glamour Gal. Her name was Shara. You can smell the pearly musk mallow, milky ambrette and cognac in the memory of her lustrous, opalescent hair and in her sleek shimmery gown, a vision of frosted starlight, cool, aloof lily of the valley and pale peony, delicate and dappled with dew on a spring morning when the chill is still bright and hard in the air. When I wore Glass Blooms this evening, I felt every bit as elegant and enchanting as I felt it must feel to be a Glamour Gal like Shara. Who, though Kenner has been defunct since 2000, I can find still-in-package on eBay for 24.99…which is a better deal than a bottle of Glass Blooms, at $225. If I’m being honest, though, I think I need both of them

Tubéreuses Castane is such a beautiful, fabulous fever dream of a cocktail... an elderflower-forward sparking sweet Riesling with a musky, caramelized chunk of amber floating in the wine, along with a luxuriant dollop of rich chestnut puree and a generous dash of spicy ginger liqueur. It's heady and hypnotic and a little weird but it's not too cerebral or precious about it and lordy be, it is a friggin glamazon

Deep, dark, and strong.

Leather and spices burning over a Hinoki campfire.

I have a lot of animalics and don't get much from this. Certainly not filthy, especially if compared to Sadonaso from Nasomatto.

A beautiful masculine scent.

Warm spicy cinnamon and spices over top of a sweet almost cherry tobacco. Musk, woods, and a gentle creamy vanilla in the base.

Notre Dame Notte di Natale is what happens when the wicked, witchly spirit of venomous anisette, honeyed plums, and midnight-plucked flowers from Christian Dior's Poison winds its dark essence through into the flesh of a gingerbread man, wrapping itself in a crust of dark spices, black treacle, and unholy sugar. A fragrant possession of spiced damnation.

If Heinrich Lossow's painting "The Sin" got a modern perfume brief, but plot twist - the nun is doing laundry, and instead of a garden variety horny priest, she's being visited by a biblically accurate angel, all burning eyes and razor wings and divine perversity. It's giving Clovis Trouille's ecstatic scandalous nuns but make it fresh linens and benediction. A slutty nun chypre laundry musk that somehow makes perfect sense. Sacred and profane, bleached and debauched.