Released in 2015
Classified as Oriental Floral
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha
Top: rose and madagascar vanilla Heart: haitian vetiver, honey, tuberose and bulgarian rose Base: sandalwood, ambergris, amber and indian oud
A very sweet delicate rose opening, which is smooth and creamy. The scent is quite linear, doesn't change drastically nor does it evovle, its pretty one-dimensional. A beautiful sweet, creamy and smooth rose, with sandalwood and vanilla.
Projection is soft to moderate, doesn't scream massively off your skin. Longevity on my skin is around 6 hours.
This would be an ideal date fragrance that can be worn year round.
Overall rating of 3.5/5.
Top: saffron oil, jasmine auriculatum absolute, Persian rose otto.
Heart: Bulgarian damascena absolute, honey absolute, orange blossom, henna, tobacco.
Base: EnsarOud's Encens D'Angkhor, beeswax, hand-macerated ambergris, hand-made Shamama (aged sandalwood, 30-year-old patchouli, henna, labdanum, Siamese benzoin, musk) raw Persian and Spanish Saffron strands maceration, Siamese benzoin resinoid, labdanum, tobacco absolute, Mysore sandalwood.
The opening has this slight faint metallic vibe, with a dull warm spiciness. For me it reminds me of my mums gold jewellery she keeps in a plastic container (old ice cream box, you know those 3 flavour combo's with vanilla, chocolate and strawberry), she keeps this plastic container in the kitchen, which holds her gold jewellery, along with some other miscellaneous items like a small tub of saffron (used sparingly in dishes made for special occasions), some band aids etc. And whenever I used to need a band aid, and open the container, I use to get a whiff off this dull spiciness with some metallic nuance from the jewellery, and thats what I get in the opening.
As the scent develops, the faint metallic vibes eases, but the dull warm spices become less dull, the saffron now feels more blooded, and joined with is the most luxurious note of Jasmine. Unfortunately for me the jasmine doesn't last too long, and as the scent dries down it takes with it the warm intense spicy Saffron with is joined by a juicy woody accord, and a dirty slightly animalic Oud, maybe due to the henna note.
This was a difficult review to conduct, as the scent was incredibly complex, it hits you differently on each wearing, with so many facets and complexities, it was difficult to identity just one accord. This is a very regal, and opulent scent, fit for royalty.
The projection is strong for the first couple of hours, after which is becomes moderate, with a solid scent cloud. Longevity is brilliant 12+ hours.
Best suited to formal occasions.
Perfect score of 5/5, a masterpiece.
Classified as a oriental floral
Nose behind the scent is Sultan Pasha, a self taught attar perfumer based in London, UK.
Top: Butter, Rose and Iranian Saffron Heart: Turkish Rose and Sandalwood Base: Hindi Oud, Hyrax, Musk, Ambergris and Tobacco.
Two very different experiences on each wearing.
First experience of this scent was mind blowing, I got this heavy animalic musky, leathery hyrax, with a touch of funky Hindi Oud. It was a daring and challenging scent, but it blew me away and I absolutely loved it. Second wearing was more of classic rose Oud, very bright and floral sweet rose, with a gentle funky Hindi Oud base.
On subsequent wearings I got that animalic musky leather in the opening, but it eased as the scent developed in the heart, due to this sweet floral rose. Now the rose in this is very floral, its sweet but not due to gourmand notes such as vanilla, it's not a jammy rose. As the scent dries down there's a touch of the Hindi Oud, which gives a faint woody touch and aids the funkiness present in the scent. It's to me in the dry down this incredibly sexy animalic musky and subtle leathery scent, it has this sweaty human skin feel, with a touch of smooth and sweet rose. Glorious, complex and undoubtedly high quality, the rose especially feels incredible natural.
Projection is moderate on this scent, pretty strong for the first hour, but then becomes more moderate. Longevity on my skin was around 6-8 hours.
Overall rating for this one is 5/5, I love animalic scents, and this one was one of the best I've come across so far!
Classified as a floral
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha, a self taught attar maker, considered by many as the best in the world.
As a child, Sultan Pasha was exposed to lush fertile jungles with tea gardens nearby. The air was rife with the scent of green foliage, earth and moisture mingling with the creamy scent of ripe wild fruits and berries alongside the creamy narcotic scent of white and yellow florals.
Top: gardenia enfleurage and jasmine sambac enfleurage. Heart: lavender absolute, tuberose absolute, gardenia absolute and sandalwood. Base: Bois de Borneo (rare Borneo oud by Ensar oud), katrafay, tonka absolute, calamus, Haitian vetiver, galbanum, civet and ambergris.
Beautiful and luscious jasmine opening, really rich and bright but also creamy possibly from the sandalwood, with a noticable calming lavender which sadly only lasts a few minutes. The opening almost has a leather or better described as a suede opening, which is surrounded by white florals such as tuberose, jasmine and gardenia especially which really starts dominating the scent within the first 5 minutes or so. As the fragrance develops it almost becomes creamier and smoother, coming across a little like almond (possibly coming from the tonka bean). Sadly there isn't much development after that (that I could detect), due to performance issues.
Projection is good for the first hour, after which it sits much closer to the skin. Though if someone was to come close to you, they would be able to smell it. In terms of longevity this lasted on my skin for around 5 hours.
Overall a solid scent, masterfully crafted but the performance wasn't the best on my skin. 5/10
This is an incredible iteration of violet, and an incredible vetiver perfume. I'm surprised by the claims that it lacks the Amouage DNA, for me it was immediately transcendentally beautiful and opulent, and I perceive a direct link to Lyric Woman, notably in the violet (despite violet not being listed in LW). I will say that it is remarkably similar to Girl by Comme des Garçons, except that this one is unmistakably better, I can only imaging the ingredients used are of far superior quality. However, if you can't afford this, Girl is a very viable alternative and a perfume I already had a great deal of respect for. Portrayal has a richer depth, a sweet resiny undercurrent and lacks the dusty woodiness of Girl. Girl can become a bit relentless sometimes, whereas Portrayal is eternal while never becoming annoying. Update: god this is wonderful. There's also a very delicate, subtle sprinkling of (maybe) cumin giving it a slight body smell vibe.
I've been quite shocked testing this brand that a lot of the perfumes have jarring, loud and synthetic base-note overloads. The brand image seems to be restrained/refined class but the scents are screechy, scratchy and designer-esque, and it baffles me because Sonia Constant has done loads of decent stuff for designers that doesn't fit into the shouting, beasty ambrofixative category. Maybe this is the type of thing she likes wearing, so it's what she's concentrating on for her own brand, but it's really not for me. If you like this style, this is a good perfume.
In love with this orange-carnation infused smoky vanilla with a powdery tonka touch.
I picked this up for a bargain on eBay and to be honest it’s absolutely brilliant. One of my favourite new arrivals of 2024. I paid £60 which was great. I’d happily pay double that for such an excellent perfume so well presented. Amazing glass. The fragrance smells like some mad boozy cocktail - Duchafour at his bonkers best IMO.
What can I say - it’s a sweet, intoxicating bomb. When I wear it to bed, it wakes me up in the night. But it is sexy and it makes me feel powerful, which is why I decided not to sell it (I took the ad down after a month or so, guess it’s not a popular choice among perfume enthusiasts since no one even tried to buy it :D). The fruity top notes are very prominent throughout the wear and the sweetness of the whole thing is a bit too much sometimes. This one needs a certain mood.
Elegant, multi-layered, beautiful Italian chic.
This is like a warm, glowing halo of rosy sandalwood musk. Very clean, and sits so close to the skin that you feel less like you’re wearing a fragrance and more like you just washed your whole body with a deliciously creamy soap. I didn’t notice the incense at first but it creeps out with the dry down, and it’s quite subtle, neither smoky nor too sweet. Eventually you start to pick up the vetiver but it’s very smoothly blended. I’m not sure I detect any of the listed oud, though. Overall, it’s like a more subtle, nuanced Santal 33 with a hint of soapy rose. It’s billed as “for women” but I suspect that’s just because it came out in 1999–by today’s standards, this is 100% unisex. Sophisticated and unpretentious at the same time: smells really good in a simple, unassuming way. Lovely bottle, too, and pretty affordable, which is good because you’ll want to douse yourself in it in order to get a lasting effect. A great fragrance to wear for an occasion where you expect someone to smell your skin close-up.
Amazing warm incensy rose. Has that slightly plasticity ELDO note to my nose, but that goes quickly.
The jammy rose is just beautiful. The incense is vibrant and warming.
I get a little dankness of oud, but maybe that's a reminder of something like Ombrè Nomad.
If I'd never smelled Interlude Man I'd think this was the best amber ever, but it's very similar, but slightly inferior to the Amouage for me.
Beautiful jasmine and resin. I get elemi from this, or perhaps it's the olibanum, but it's the same lemony type I love in Myths Man. Eveyone is bashing the newer Amouage but, while I love the Chong-era perfumes, some of the newer ones are sneaking up on me too. I absolutely love this. Update: there's a fleeting moment in the opening when I catch a scratchy woody amber, but it passes and the beautiful salty jasmine takes over. It feels fresh and briny, with a vibrant lemony shimmer. The dry down brings out the cardamom and an absolutely devestating sandlewood accord, absolutely top notch. It's very addictive and dynamic. I feel like this is underrated, maybe due to the bad direction they went in with packaging/branding. The curcuma here is in the mid and drydown unlike what the pyramid suggests, and it reminds me of Cuir Cúrcuma in its creaminess. Update: like a jasmine version of Encens Mythique.
Very strange, especially for a Salmon era Amouage. It's very spicy and aldehydic, with a monstrous, woody, musky, ambergris base. I left it a few months and it's really changed in the bottle. Every time I smell my skin I get something different. One minute there's huge turmeric, the next it's gone, but overall the thing I get least is the rose, then the jasmine, whereas when I first sprayed from the flacon it was jasmine-forward and much more gentle. I'm glad it turned out like this, and I'd say contrary to the bottle shape and packaging design this will be one for days when I want to wear a masculine scent.
A nice spicy rose scent with a big gust of hot breath from someone who doesn't clean their teeth enough. Or their tongue 🤢
This is an ode to classic perfumery, with nods to Chanel and Guerlain, a stunning, voluptuous floral with honeyed benzoin and vanilla softening the base. The type of person who wears this would be classy but not showy, a friendly sort of class, mature and confident but with youthful energy, whereas the type of person wearing the ghastly 2024 New Look would be some sort of youth compensating for their generational malaise by smelling like a chemical explosion and probably sporting some sort of jagged, asymettrical haircut.
Must de Cartier is one of the crowning jewels for the house, one of the great classics which will forever command love and respect. There’s something so effortlessly comforting about this scent, it transports you to a realm free of worry and concern - until you take your nose away from your wrist. Jean-Jacques Diener used Shalimar as a principle structure for this release, particularly with the use of the vanilla here. It’s incredibly smooth, the vanilla, tonka and Sandalwood create this creamy, almost buttery and flowy effect, elevated by the delicate warmth of rosewood and carnation. It’s got a bit of a bite to it as well however, galbanum and leather take pride in disturbing what you thought would be a boring scent. It’s gorgeous, I love it. So incredibly elegant and refined, this is a scent which demands smart clothing in a sophisticated environment. But at the same time, it remains perfectly polite and understated - like a person who effortlessly glides through the room, capturing the attention of everyone around them without even saying a word.
Le Temps de Reines is a fragrance I’m not too familiar with, both scent-wise but also in regards to its history. It’s a very pleasantly warm and smooth woody scent, slightly powdery, slightly spicy with gentle earthy facets. It’s bordering on beautiful actually, but I’m not sure I love it. Sandalwood reigns supreme in this composition; with its delicate creamy, powdery facets providing and endlessly smooth base for the other notes to linger on top of. The crimson warmth of geranium alongside a touch of warm spices creates an alluring backdrop against a very subtle patchouli. It’s rich, deep and intensely creamy - almost buttery. This is one of those fragrances which are so profoundly smooth that you’ll either adore it or dismiss it. The smooth buttery nature of this scent is gorgeous, but for me it’s lacking a bit of oomph to really make it a love for me - I think it plays it a bit safe if I’m honest. Smells great though.
Feminite du Bois, Christopher Sheldrake’s masterpiece for Shiseido before becoming an icon of Serge Lutens. A revolutionary use of cedarwood, creating one of the most deliciously enveloping scent profiles on the market today. There’s not a huge amount of difference between this and the Serge Lutens version, to my nose at least, other than the fact that this is noticeably gentler, smoother and a touch soapier. The Serge is bold and brash in its overdose of cedarwood, juicy plums and warm spices - they slap you round the face and don’t let up (in a good way), whereas the Shiseido is toned down; spicier and warmer, more of a skin scent if anything. People often go manic trying to get their hands on the ‘original’ formulation/edition of a perfume, but this is one of those rare cases where I think the follow-up was an improvement. The current Féminité is stronger, longer lasting and more indulgent whilst still retaining all of that glorious character.
I don't know (nor really care) what this says about me, but I do like the smell of real world weed... I also love grapefruit and leather (as a note, I love Fahrenheit and Bleu), so my hype for this was really big. But I was disappointed. Doesn't smell like a realistic weed strain, but rather like... for example, you know that oranges don't smell/taste like 'orange candy' or 'orange-flavored' stuff, same with a lot of other stuff. Well, that happens here; it smells like something 'weed-flavored' and not like actual weed. Furthermore, it smells 'weed-AND-grape-flavored' (yes, not grapefruit... grape!). I think that, ironically, the grapefruit gives that impression. A greenish, kinda' Polo-like leather is there, but the weed 'n' grape don't let me enjoy it. Didn't exactly give a headache, but if I kept smelling the application point, I could get nauseous.
Overall, I really tried to like it, but... yeah, nah. Interestingly, even some older women of my family liked it (unaware of the cannabis note).
Aside from my disliking of the scent itself, it has great performance for those who do like it. It may be obvious, but I'll say it anyways: this is unsafe for blind-buying (try it first!). It's a more-on-the-cold-weather-side fragrance, and a night beast for those who can pull it off.
Finally, IMHO, Paco Rabanne's Invictus Platinum kind of reminds me of this, but better, less synthetic/candy-like, and fresher.
I don't want to be mean, but this smells like a glorified apple pie, and not in a good way. Don't get me wrong: I love apple pie, I love it's smell, but I don't want to smell like it, and worse in a fragrance (with the obvious alcohol a fragrance has). I think is the same concept of working in a bakery or a restaurant; bread and garlic smell awesome, but smelling like those is not the best idea.
This was gifted to me. It's not a fragrance that I completely dislike, but it's not something I would like to have again either; in real life, I love both cranberries and coffee, but together, in the scent realm, ah... it's not a good combination for me. There's amber, wood and citrus; the sage is subtle, and I detect no saffron. I rather spray myself a little, because I have the personal impression that it can be kind of offensive if heavily sprayed... it's just too sweet, I guess, but then again, that's for me. I get that cranberries and coffee are good scents, but I think they should be not together. It's a very fall-ish fragrance, and while you can use it for day-time because of the cranberries and the citrus, the sweet coffee note (not like espresso or black coffee, but more like sugary big-hype-and-price-but-low-quality-brand beverage) makes it fit for evening-use, specially if you are in a casual setting... and well, only in you like it, because, I can't imagine other scenarios (like a romantic date or an action-packed night) with it; teens might like this, I don't know. I strongly recommend to test it first.
Just beautiful.
Like walking through a wet garden border where the mint grows. The mint remains prominent but subsides eventually. Just an amazing scent.
Leather, definitely present... present as inside a tannery or an old west leather goods store. And ah, the gasoline; the result of the combined vetiver, cedar, ozonic violet leaves. The leather and the gasoline effect compliment each other, giving, at first, some 'tough/bad guy' vibes; think of leather jackets, dark alleys, baseball bats at the shoulder, chopper bikes, muscle cars, metal-frame and wood-grip guns, hard rock, heavy metal, the Terminator. However, that's the first minutes, about 20; after that, it mellows nicely. The leather continues, but the gasoline slowly fades, giving way to nutmeg, musk, amber, flowers, and citrus zests, and in the process to some sophisticated vibes; think of a cigar-smoking and bourbon-or-espresso-drinking bearded man in a three-piece suit, slow blues, R&B, high-end old west, polished brown or tan brogues or dress boots, the night, a room with dim lights or a fireplace while it's raining outside, a black Jaguar E-Type or Chevy Corvette C1, noir films, the series' Lucifer.
I perfectly understand why some people (myself included) love this and why some others hate it; this is very, very masculine; manly as f... hell, specially for the first minutes. I think it is an acquired taste (like many things in life). In terms of craft beer, this is the equivalent of an IPA or a toasty stout; regular light-lager-only drinkers will obviously have a rough time the first time(s). Hell, it's even like classic cocktail or neat spirit sipping for a regular beer guy, or for those who drink spirits only in shots or heavily sweet and/or diluted cocktails; there's nothing wrong in liking fresh or blue scents (after all, there's a moment and place for everything), but yeah, I think you get me. This fragrance shines in cooler weather; winter all day, spring and fall nights and afternoons, maybe even some special night dates in summer. For whatever-you-hold-dear-and-sacred sake, don't wear this in shorts and sandals; it's simply wrong, and people who notice it will rightfully think you have no idea of what you're doing. Likewise, don't wear this in the beach, or in a summer high noon (maybe unless you're in an old-west something...?), or if you're too young (having said that, I think some teenagers could pull it off quite nicely depending on context, but it's risky). Finally, while there are illustrated ladies who love when a man wears this (because, well, masculine scent), some others will not like it and prefer a fresh and nice (but sometimes-plain-or-boring-for-us) smelling guy. Chances are that girls who don't like Sauvage, Acqua di Giò or Light Blue because they're relatively common, they're too fresh (then again, context) and/or they are not manly enough, will in turn like Fahrenheit.
