Must de Cartier, from Cartier was released in 1981. The perfumer behind this creation is Jean-Jacques Diener. It has the top notes of Aldehydes, Bergamot, Brazilian Rosewood, Galbanum, Lemon, Mandarin Orange, Peach, and Pineapple, middle notes of Carnation, Jasmine, Leather, Musk, Narcissus, Neroli, Orchid, Orris Root, Rose, Vetiver, and Ylang-Ylang, and base notes of Amber, Civet, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, and Vetiver.
Must de Cartier is one of the crowning jewels for the house, one of the great classics which will forever command love and respect. There’s something so effortlessly comforting about this scent, it transports you to a realm free of worry and concern - until you take your nose away from your wrist. Jean-Jacques Diener used Shalimar as a principle structure for this release, particularly with the use of the vanilla here. It’s incredibly smooth, the vanilla, tonka and Sandalwood create this creamy, almost buttery and flowy effect, elevated by the delicate warmth of rosewood and carnation. It’s got a bit of a bite to it as well however, galbanum and leather take pride in disturbing what you thought would be a boring scent. It’s gorgeous, I love it. So incredibly elegant and refined, this is a scent which demands smart clothing in a sophisticated environment. But at the same time, it remains perfectly polite and understated - like a person who effortlessly glides through the room, capturing the attention of everyone around them without even saying a word.