Suffocatingly strong with a chokesome fixative drydown. Gold Immortals is 1000 times better.
I recently tried La Dompteuse Engagée, and while I do like it, there was something missing from it, I craved a rich, syrupy depth. Fils de Joie is exactly what I was missing. Humming white florals and thick honey, but not gourmand. Ever so slightly green-bananary/tuberosey from the ylang. Unlike a lot of Serge Lutens scents, it doesn't seem metallic or synthetic (and hey, I love me some of them). This is next level. I've worn this all day today, the warmest spring day this year I Paris, and it's absolutely marvellous. It's strong but manages to fit well in every situation, not dominating the airspace and with no screech or scratch (that said, I did apply carefully). This is now side by side with L'incendiaire as my favourite Serge Lutens.
Well blended gourmandish scent with many different notes which is impossible to separate. Coffee and milk are dominant notes and in the opening hint of some herbal fresh nuances from Davana. Despite of quite many notes this scent is linear and there is not any different levels and it doesn’t develop while wearing. This is not exactly my style of scent and it smells a little bit cloying, synthetic and a room scent like. Anyway I have to admit that I don’t like smell of coffee in perfumes (it’s more like latte here though) like the combination of dried fruits (which are not delicious or realistic at all here) with milky touch doesn’t work for me. I love all mentioned base notes but unfortunately there is a lack of quality here and none of them meet my expectations. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Celtic Rose aims to celebrate the delightful simplicity of the rose flower with little else to distract you from its beauty, I must say it achieves that goal. The rose isn’t thick or jammy, it’s not overly sweet or cloying either - it’s actually balanced to perfection. There’s definitely more notes than what’s listed here. There’s a touch of black pepper yes, but to my nose it feels like there’s heaps of aldehydes and hints of citrus which brighten and freshen the rose significantly. From the name you might expect something dark and floral, and yet this is surprisingly fresh and suitable for spring. It’s not particularly unique or special, but it smells good and satisfies the senses.
As soon as you spray Love Toxin on your skin, the blood red colour of the juice makes it look like you’ve just slashed your arm. At least if you didn’t like the fragrance it would work great for Halloween costumes. I usually despise strawberry accords in perfume, they almost always come across far too plasticky and synthetically sweet, but this here is incredible. Of course the strawberry accord is synthetic, there is no other way around it, and while it has elements of that sweet plastic feel, the quality of everything else balances it beautifully. A heady dose of bubblegummy tuberose, fecal castoreum and hints of juicy peach and plum contrast the strawberry with brutal strength. This then rests on a thick leathery base and soft powdery florals as the fruits and tuberose persist. There are no words which can accurately describe this scent well enough, it’s truly one of the more unique scents I’ve ever tried. Personally it’s not something I’d wear, but that doesn’t take away from the ingenuity of this perfume.
Mortal Skin is one of the more unique creations from Stephane Humbert Lucas, tying in an array of strange and unusual notes and yet has housed them together beautifully. All in all this is a resinous incense-based fragrance; the thick, chewy nature of myrrh, opoponax and styrax mingle to create that incredibly dark yet alluring smoky feel. Alongside this is the dominant note of blackberry, with its sweet juiciness subdued by a heavy dose of thick black ink. This juxtaposes the delicious aura of the blackberry with something far more bitter and brooding. A leathery labdanum and smooth woody base finish this scent of to perfection. This scent is a fantastically though-provoking creation, definitely a fragrance to stand out from the crowd. I’m not sure it’s exactly my style but I can appreciate the creativity and passion that’s gone into making this.
Santi Ana envisions sitting in an old, dusty barn filled with green hay whilst the sun beams through cracks in the roof and the gentle whiff of summer flowers bellows through the air. Words cannot describe how transportive this scent is. The hay is the most dominant note - it’s dry, earthy, slightly green and smells as if the real thing is right in front of you. The juicy freshness of honeysuckle and apple create that imagery of florals on a hot summers day, whilst hints of sweet propolis and sharp mint tie everything together beautifully. This scent is magical, it smells strangely nostalgic and yet I can’t place a memory to it. The quality of ingredients is phenomenal, this is pure artistry but unfortunately you simply cannot justify the insane price for a perfume is more like a memory in a bottle rather than something you’d wear regularly.
Annick Menardo does tend toward a kind of style, in my head at least, although I suspect she probably has an eclectic back catalogue like many perfumers but like I said this perfume fits that residual image I have of her work. I personally love this late 90's early noughties aesthetic. Very hazy, smooth spiced musk perfumes especially for men, it was a new time of unisex,after the aquatic wave had crashed (excuse the pun) and folks were in gucci rush, Envy and DG by and Donna Karen etc.... sandalwoodish, musks with elegant spicing or lavender over the top. Timeless, yet of this period. This Celine is much in that vain although no where near as iconic or standout but for the price I paid (£14) and in hindsight now that Celine is one of these trendy designer brands with an exclusive perfume line on par with Chanel, Dior etc... then this was a really cool buy. I love the nutmeg and nutty notes in this. I like this kind of perfumery personally but is it boring and uneventful? Yes. Will owning this really enrich your collection? No. I love having vast reserves of perfumes I can put on and feel very little emotion about, while smelling good and not over or under stimulated. This fits the brief.
Rêverie de Bergamote is less about the fresh and airy side of bergamot we’re used to in most perfumes, and more celebrates the rich and rindy dirtiness of the citrus fruit. Vibrant bursts of bergamot are joined by gentle hints of rindy orange and green, herbal additions of basil, artemisia, rosemary and lavender. From here a rich and heady geranium adds to the array of sharp citruses and herbs, before settling into an aromatic and leathery base. I pick up a subtle hint of cumin, which seems to have been used just to elevate the dirty rindy nature of the bergamot. A base of earthy Vetiver and patchouli are joined by moss and woods to create a gorgeously masculine base. This is a scent which I really enjoyed discovering, it takes you on a journey and offers up a different take to bergamot which we usually don’t get to see in most perfumes. If you’re a true lover of bergamot this is a must try.
What can be said about Pacific Lime, except for its beautiful simplicity and joyful scent profile. This is probably one of my favourite lime fragrances I’ve come across, but to be fair there aren’t loads of lime-forward scents to choose from. The bright, refreshing and zingy nature of the lime is joined by a juicy and rindy lemon which blend perfectly together. A touch of clean eucalyptus brings a soft soapiness to the scent, whilst creamy coconut and a tiny touch of mint whisk you away to tropical lands unknown. Despite the simplicity of this scent, I really enjoy it. It’s one of those fragrances that’s so enjoyable to wear and lifts your mood instantly, I can imagine this working amazingly well in the scorching heat of the summer.
Semi Bespoke 24 is an intensely sweet and feminine floral gourmand. It’s rich and heady, yet light and delicious in all the right ways. As soon as you spray it you’re whisked away by the sweet juiciness of raspberries, contrasted by the dry nuttiness of candied almonds. There’s an uplifting brightness of fleeting lemon and bergamot, whilst the entire scent profile is smoothed and balanced out by an array of thick, powdery florals including heliotrope, wisteria and rose. There’s hints of sweet tonka and ever so gentle whispers of warm spices in the base, but for the most part the scent profile doesn’t change too much. Personally I’m not a fan of raspberry notes, in most cases I can’t stand them. However I must say that the raspberry in here is gorgeous, everything is smoothed out to perfection, but unfortunately it’s still not a scent I’d pay £750 for.
Semi Bespoke 23 is a gorgeously masculine and intriguing woody aromatic scent. It opens with a powerfully green, earthy and herbal concoction of oregano, thyme and basil, which is freshened up by the vibrant kick of bergamot and gentle florals. Not long after spraying, an explosion of thick and heady frankincense takes over. This chewy resinous aspect is furthered by a leather labdanum and creamy sandalwood, all whilst maintaining a sweet warm spiciness of clove and vanilla. As it settles on the skin a rich woody base of oud and cypriol emerge, alongside earthy patchouli, sharp cedar and pine. This scent is gorgeous, however it bears a strong similarity to PDV4, just without the rum accord. I can’t deny how good this smells and would be a bit amongst woody aromatic lovers, but the value for money just isn’t there when PDV4 is of the same quality for a better price.
Semi Bespoke 10 is a stunning aromatic spicy fragrance, with hints of creamy Chypre qualities. Initially you’re greeted by the smooth warmth of coriander and cardamom, contrasted by the sweet and refreshing bursts of creamy peach and tangy mandarin orange. From here, as the scent becomes enveloped in a thick and powdery cloud of soft florals, a more intense spiciness makes itself known through the addition of cinnamon and clove. In the dry down is where this fragrance shines however - the smoky regal nature of frankincense and myrrh is joined by an array of smooth woods and balanced by the creamiest oakmoss and orris. This scent truly is a delight for the senses, there’s a lot going on but it still manages to smell clean, elegant and unique all at the same time. I feel like this is a riff on the Reckless Pour Homme scent profile, with more of a resinous, powdery aspect to the overall end product.
Semi Bespoke 21 is a timeless leathery chypre fragrance which heaps of character, it’s truly unforgettable once you smell it. The scent opens initially very fresh, vibrant and tart with sharp notes of juicy grapefruit and rindy mandarin orange. The citrus is then illuminated by bed of gentle flowers, with rose and jasmine at the forefront. As this settles on the skin, it becomes deeper and richer. Thick layers of opulent leather intertwined with the oily earthiness of cypriol is smoothed out by a traditional chypre base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. Alongside this are woody aromatic touches of juniper, frankincense and cedar. Overall this is a leather and cypriol dominant scent. The cypriol here is very tame and blends well with the leather, it’s not explosive like Majestic Aoud or FM Promise. This fragrance is beautiful and I would love a bottle, but I find I enjoy the opening a lot more than the dry down and so the price just isn’t worth it for me.
Very challenging photorealistic pissy, índolic, murderous triffid of a floral. A feat of perfumery, but total unwearable for me. It's also nuclear in performance, as I found out the hard way. I was leaving home this morning and put two little sprays on (from a decant, so really small sprays). I was thoroughly worn down by the scent within 30 minutes, yet it continued to project heavily, obnoxiously, for around 5 hours. I could not wait to scrub it off.
Amazing, spicy and light. It's cardamom done in a way I've never encountered before. Dry like cinammon sticks and dried fruit but somehow fresh and invigorating. Love!
This is incredible, Amer is such a talented artist.
I’m usually not a lover of mint-based fragrances at all, hate them in fact, but this is actually done really really well - I love it. The mint is not too cloying or toothpastey, it’s balanced perfectly and is fantastically refreshing for a hot day. That sharp and refreshingly spicy blast of mint is initially balanced by the juicy freshness of grapefruit and plum which smell delicious in the air. From here you get the aquatic saltiness of the ocean with rain pouring over your head in the blistering sun. There’s then a hint of intense sugary sweetness in the base from vanilla, brown sugar and powdery Turkish Delight. Ayjal is stunning, it’s such an uplifting and happy scent to wear. I can imagine this shining brilliantly in the high heat when you need something fresh and inviting, it settles on the skin amazingly well. This is how you do mint in perfumes.
Looking at Turath’s note breakdown, I was expecting something very sweet and cool-weather appropriate, but what I found was something surprisingly refreshing and versatile. This is a satisfyingly sweet and wearable fruity scent, which would work very well all year round. Firstly, this scent does come off very synthetic due to the use of strawberry and apple accords, as these very rarely smell natural as there is no raw material for them. This refreshing juiciness is contested by the dark stickiness of dried fruits alongside smoky incense and oud. That sweetness is elevated by a feel of sugary candied fruits, freshened up by the airy saltiness of ambergris. Turath is gorgeous I can’t lie, I’m not sure it’s worth the price but I really enjoy wearing it. It’s one of those scents you can comfortably wear in the heat of summer, and the bitter coldness of winter and not feel out of place. Gorgeous.
Diwan is a fruity rose-oud which will blow your socks off straight away, this stuff seriously fills rooms. It’s sweet and seductive, airy and floral and yet at the same time dense, smoky and dark. The scent is primarily focused around the dark, smoky growl of thick oud, leather and incense which provides this bitter backbone to the fragrance. To contrast this you’ve got an array of sticky-sweet fruity notes including raspberry and strawberry backed up by jammy rose and saffron. There’s hints of other stuff going on but that’s the general gist of it. This is a gorgeous fruit oud scent but I wouldn’t even consider paying the retail price for it. It’s very enjoyable to wear but it doesn’t stick in my mind for days on end like some of the other SOD’s do unfortunately.
Baz is pure unadulterated filthy luxury in a bottle, it’s dirty and raunchy yet ever so smooth and elegant in its own way. It’s dominated by a brutally rich and pungent leather accord alongside a sharp, urinous and almost sour civet note. This animalistic leather is elevated by spicy hints of cardamom and black pepper, alongside smoky elements of resins and incense. This smokiness in turn is strengthened by birch, with rich earthy notes of castoreum and oud taking this further. On the other side of this dark brooding affair, the intense juicy nature of plum and sparkly aldehydes provide a shimmer of light amongst all this which balances everything beautifully. The focus on civet and leather does remind me a little of Diaghilev, but other than that the scent heads in a totally different direction. It’s still got that filth and eroticism, but with its own distinct Middle Eastern twist. Incredible scent.
I love this. It was the first perfume I ever smelled from the house, and I thought about it for two years before I finally got a tester for a reasonable price. It's a unique rose fragrance with perfectly balanced accompaniment from fig and eucalyptus. I can't identify the cashmeran but I imagine it stops this from being brutally cold and woody. It sounds silly but it's simple and complex, as in the same three notes keep ebbing and flowing and swapping themselves around throughout the wear. There are no surprises, but that's fine by me as it's a dazzlingly beautiful fragrance, and it's not too linear, as I get something different in different temperatures, seasons, etc. This is a firm favourite, has great performance and manages to be persistant and strong without wearing me down or hijacking other people's air supply. Absolute class in a bottle.
A truly beautiful tobacco scent, one of the best I've found. Its golden hues of whole tobacco leaves laid out and baking in the heat of the mid-afternoon sunshine. Warm and woody, the leaves hum with the deep, dark flavour of molasses. A must try. Highly recommended. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
The negative reviews are actually the ones that drew me the most to wanting to blind buy this. “Smells like you cooked a big Italian meal and then went walking in the woods”, “it’s great if you want to smell like a 50 year old priest”, dude that sounds different and fascinating. I don’t know of anything else that smells remotely like this. It’s got notes that include bay leaf, and it’s super inexpensive. My wife loves it on me. It feels very old fashioned and distinct in an international way. This is a working man’s scent. A firm handshake, direct eye contact, a soft sonorous voice, calloused hands, a word of encouragement, dependably calm and collected. If Aqua Brava was a man, he would be all of these. I would sacrifice half or more of my fragrance wardrobe for an edt version of this. I’ve smelled hand sanitizer with better longevity. PUIG!!! GIVE THE PEOPLE WHAT THEY WANT!!! Note: I have almost 20 different scents I have to choose from and THIS is the ONLY one my wife rates a 10/10.
