Semi-Bespoke No. 21, from Roja Dove was released in 2017. The perfumer behind this creation is Roja Dove. It has the top notes of Grapefruit and Mandarin Orange, middle notes of Heliotrope, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Rose, and Tuberose, and base notes of Benzoin, Cedarwood, Cloves, Cypriol Oil or Nagarmotha, Juniper Berries, Labdanum, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss, Olibanum (Frankincense), Patchouli, Tonka Bean, and Vanilla.
Semi Bespoke 21 is a timeless leathery chypre fragrance which heaps of character, it’s truly unforgettable once you smell it. The scent opens initially very fresh, vibrant and tart with sharp notes of juicy grapefruit and rindy mandarin orange. The citrus is then illuminated by bed of gentle flowers, with rose and jasmine at the forefront. As this settles on the skin, it becomes deeper and richer. Thick layers of opulent leather intertwined with the oily earthiness of cypriol is smoothed out by a traditional chypre base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. Alongside this are woody aromatic touches of juniper, frankincense and cedar. Overall this is a leather and cypriol dominant scent. The cypriol here is very tame and blends well with the leather, it’s not explosive like Majestic Aoud or FM Promise. This fragrance is beautiful and I would love a bottle, but I find I enjoy the opening a lot more than the dry down and so the price just isn’t worth it for me.