I've done all these reviews in the wrong order now! I managed to write a really in depth one for Cuir de Russie and the proceeded to delete it never to be seen again. That was my first and very positive experience of Chanel Les Exclusifs, I don't know why but I was dreading trying this. I think I thought it may smell like Serge Lutens Cedre for some bizzare reason...kinda pissy after all it turns out to be a sheldrake creation. Thank heavens it wasn't the opening is very clean and sappy green aldehydes but with an instant spice to it. I'd say juniper and cypress in terms of notes listed here and you could be fooled by thinking this was a very lightweight fresh woody scent. Then the next few minutes of development, and a very focused smokey vetiver emerges. This dries everything out and combined with the gorgeous spicy edge of sandalwood makes for an extremely refined vetiver and up there with the best I've smelled. The comparisons with Encre Noire are obvious as a benchmark of ethereal, earthy quality. I think the main difference is that Sycomore doesn't reveal it's hand as quickly as EN and as such develops slightly differently. This is a good fragrance.

Not sure if I've already reviewed this one but in any case I've revisited Sycomore EDT in the last week or so, as I feel it's one of the more popular Les Exclusifs but one of the ones I'm least familiar with. It's a vetiver! That won't be a big shock to those of you reading a review on Chanel Sycomore and I hate to pick on the previous reviewer (below) coz it's a bit of dick move but I am a dick so it's fine and perfectly in character, So I would say that to compare this to Encre Noir is bizarre to put it lightly. This juniper fresh interpretation of vetiver is a million miles from the gloomy, melancholy... no, abject misery of the Lalique, that to say they are different 'vibes' is an understatement. Encre is brilliant for what it is, about the most dreary day imaginable, I'm talking like Manchester dank! But it's construction is so rudimental, so Iso E and vetiveryl acetate and not a lot else, and while Sycomore EDT is seemingly simple too, it's key difference is that it feels alive, it feels rounded like a good Chanel should, and even though this is one of the least quintessentially 'Chanel' Chanel's I could reference, and it's not even bringing anything new to the table in terms of vetiver composition ideas, nor do I really even particularly like this style of fragrance from a personal point of view, I have to say that it is a supremely well made and satisfying perfume.

Wow! This is an uncompromising fragrance. Rather than being warm this stuff is positively hot! An aggressive amber, softened and feminized with floral notes but lets get it right, this is a hearty, balmy resin fragrance. It's almost syrup-like intensity opening with a spiced oriental feel and a puff of powder. It's got a bit of the old style straight benzoin, Bain de Caron thing coupled with a dressier tuberose, which is prominent in the opening and fading into the dry down but for me providing a great compliment for the amber accord. Tuberose is one of those love/hate things for me but in this I just get the good stuff. The sweet sharpness is more like labdanum than olibanum but either way it's prominent throughout...another thing I like. There's a creaminess of sandalwood in here too, maybe coming out more on my skin and conspiring with the amber accord again to intoxicate. I see this as a floriental fragrance which I can understand some people considering to be unisex and frankly I could pull it off. Having said this it reminds me so fully of a confident, sexy, more mature woman sort of vibe? For this association in my mind I couldn't wear it but be damned sure I'd be attracted to a woman wearing it. It's a bit naughtier than the kind of scent your mum might wear, I like to think more of a liberated cougar type rocking Halston Amber Woman. It's no joke performance wise too...goes on nice and strong, doesn't last excessively long but projects really well for a good couple of hours before retreating to a low skin scent. Update: My girlfriend has been wearing samples of this the past few days and it comes across very tuberosy on her especially at first.

I'll be honest...I totally impulse bought this fragrance and now I'm not 100% sure about it? John Varvatos is a brand rarely seen in the UK until now, ironic that a week after I come back from the states (where I saw this stuff all over & didn't sample) I end up buying a JV fragrance at home. Anyway I knew nothing about the brand except for mixed reviews on here and have managed to aquire 5 (4 mini's) and this one due to the fact I quite liked the lot. Dark Rebel seemed at first to be a very interesting, dark, smokey scent with a slightly mysterious edge if not a bit of a silly name. The opening is of uber dark ebony woods, tobacco, leather and styrax to my nose made this very appealing. An raw animal quality shrouded in spiced rum and a strong cinnamon note which dies down quickly into a heart of familiar mainstream fodder. I have to admit this is a classic case of a really mediocre fragrance masquerading as something quite unique and special for the opening 10 minutes. Shame really because I genuinely sat up and noticed Dark Rebel. It's not doom and gloom though the skin scent this dies down to is a sugary, Captain Morgan which is there throughout but somehow smells slightly cheap as apposed to that chaotic opening. In summary 'Niche opening, designer dry down.' Performance is average bordering more on the poor side but you know what??? I'm not disheartened because this fragrance takes you on a journey, all be it a short and slightly disappointing one ...but a journey nonetheless.

Let ignore two things for a moment... One... that this is a Bond No.9 fragrance and as such fairly pricey. and two...That it smells like many fresh scents you've smelled before. I'm perhaps slightly biased as I sampled this scent in the Bond no.9 shop which is almost directly at the end of the High Line, shortly after enjoying a sunny stroll down it. The High Line is truly a great idea by the way and something more cities with similar elevated train lines should adopt, if they can. What I did notice was lots of hardy grasses rather than colourful, delicate flowering plants. (although there is some of course.) Anyway High line the fragrance opens with a burst of that freshness and citrus. I have to say... I wish I got rhubarb from this but I just don't sadly. The sales assistants assured me there was tulips in there and without being specific I'd say a non-sweet floral aroma is there. Hyacinth is absolutely present not something I'm over keen on when pungent but here it gives a nice 'WET' grassy quality. This has to have a woody base for it to sit on and adhere to, I'm sure it's there but I can't really detect it. Maybe it is getting lost in a clean floral musk, which is green and pleasant till the bitter end in the drydown. I like the fact that some thought has gone in to this fragrance about the high line and although when all is told it smells like a generic green/floral scent, the quality of ingredients is still apparent to me. Performance is good and subtly projects as long as you don't go mad with application. High Line is a lovely smelling scent just not one for me and not something I would be looking to add to my wardrobe.

I have to say that in store this was an instant hit with me and having worn one of the samples I got, my opinion hasn't changed much. This is a decent brew and I can see why it would have mass appeal (I seem to recall the SA telling me this was a best seller) very well blended fresh woody/citrus combo which can't really go all that wrong. What it can do is pale into insignificance against many designer scents which have the same brief, and again I think it doesn't do that. This is by virtue of the fact that there's a perceived quality here from a fresh juniper then vaguely tropical friut opening which is quickly manned up with a little dryness of cedar and even hint of birch some which I think is coming from a vetiver core. When I say 'vaguely' tropical fruit I actually mean quite an accurate pineapple note, which in no way reminds me of Aventus. While on the subject as it seems to be a issue of contention (certainly with the reviewer below) Scent of Peace oddly DOES remind me of Aventus but not because it smells even remotely similar, but simply because it seems squarely aimed at that preppy crowd who want a wearable, designer scent but are looking for something slightly more exclusive. This could just as easily remind me Bleu de Chanel smell wise but I think this is fresher and more up my street. Yep...Bond No.9 have a fragrance I would definitely wear here when this dries all the way down it's smells very masculine works well with my skin, the performance is good and for the price, perfectly acceptable. Update: Yeah I said this reminded me of Aventus but doesn't smell like it....errrr...yeah the reason it reminds me of Aventus? Because it does in fact smell quite a bit like Aventus. Only for the first hour or so and no where near as brash/smokey or pineapple like. I have to say this is a supreme wear, I've thoroughly enjoyed it's gentle smell throughout the day. Then a new aspect, a crayon/pencil shaving like, fruity/creamy sandalwood sort of thing which I never detected before in the base. It puts me in mind of Donna Karen Fuel for Men/Aventus and something else...rest assured scent of peace has more dimensions than first expected...and I kinda want it.

Wall street conjures up images of Gordon Gekko or Valentino suit clad, 80's twats sniffing cocaine and talking into brick mobile phones with a big rubber breadsticks coming out of the top, in true Patrick Bateman style. Bond No.9 's gimmick of naming the scents after parts of New York city is something I really love about the brand. I've got a real soft spot in my heart for NYC but I don't really associate a bright n breezy aquatic scent with the hustle and bustle world of the financial district. You could argue 'what does a street or neighborhood smell of anyway?' which is a fair point but other than being fairly close to the water I don't get the connection with Wall street here? I'd say wherever you are on Manhattan you're pretty close to water...even slap bang in the middle! Anyway... Words like "Aquatic?", notes like cucumber? This doesn't inspire confidence in me at all. Cucumber is a wonderful juicy, natural, smell but in perfume terms its usually strongly accentuated and curdled with creamy almond, vanilla, tonka or sandlewood etc...which for me make it nauseating. This is different...not accurate smelling but fresh and works really well in the aquatic setting. I do get hints of Sel Marine, similar salty seabreeze with none of the horrible elements or suncream. It's so vaguely salty, perfectly well handled seasoning and could be down to seaweed or less likely (more bizarrely) down to pistachio! More of a cooling, fruity, slightly metallic seaside exotic drink. There's a drier bitter orange note in there for sure and amorphous citrus and obvious vetiver. The base that it dries down too is warm with a puff of light white musk, yet still quite metallic which is fairly anomalous. This is a good one from Bond No.9 then...okay performance, unisex but totally at home on this man and even masculine leaning. To me this is better than the very pleasant Creed Millesime Imperial (Which seems like a worthy comparison)due to being more interesting. Performance is okay and I like the smell a lot...thumbs up for Wall street.

I've voted 'Like' on this one but frankly it's just because it's a pleasant smell not a truly great perfume. If you can get past the overbearing fruity opening and the incredibly shampoo-like quality which dominates the whole experience, there's some merit in there. The opening is a berry concoction which is super feminine and smells EXACTLY like more than one of my girlfriends shampoo's. Then that powdery minimal clean white peony/magnolia combo which is the heart of this fragrance. I'd say its a warm synthetic base of amber when dried down but still the dominant fruity/floral powder. The kicker for me is the Ivy. Yes you can detect it and that is the honestly Sag Harbor's saving grace (although it dies away after a hour or so) and keeps this scent from just being cheap or a total chickfest and actually reminds me of carthusia or another Italian house which use this herbal, green scent against the nagging powder of a modern base. Unfortunately it will always win over and there's no way I could were a scent like this. I'm glad after my missus washes her hair that the smell doesn't last too long, let alone her then applying a fragrance which is much the same. Some are going to love this and good luck to them, as I mentioned I think it has some merit as a high price fragrance...just not for me. Update: This is very long lasting stuff, dies right down to the skin but very good longevity.

Okay I've never tried Windsor and have been tempted to purchase a stupendously over priced sample before now just to be one of the privileged few who know what all the fuss is about? I'm suspecting like many, many folks who are smelling Royal Mayfair for the first time and having their hopes of a holy grail dashed, because it really isn't what they had anticipated Windsor to be like. Well I agree. Although I could be wrong...This might be a pale imitation in comparison but even the sales assistant was quick to say that it was a Windsor doppelganger, so what conclusion am I supposed to draw? Well, just going off the fragrance alone, instantly it smells like Creed. I'm not exactly sure I can put into words what I mean by that...but bare with me. I think its the juniper/citrus opening which is fresh and bracing in a really good way. Then there's a slightly herbal pine refrain which settled down on my skin to a very different Rose heart. I say 'different' because it's not dark or thickly perfumed or jammy or anything like that but more like a Penhaligon's opus 1870 refined rose note. This however is not the whole story and I've deliberated started talking about what I consider to be the 'garnish'. The main offender (depending how you see it?) here is the eucalyptus which rides through each layer of this perfume from top to bottom. I actually found it to be quite an interesting and subtle note not overbearing but I can absolutely understand the aversion and negative connotations associated with it. Menthol cough sweets, cheap minty smells and coupled with pine in here cheap bathroom cleaning products. Thankfully I think it's handled pretty tactfully in this composition and doesn't tip over into that territory but instead walks a thin line of questionable appeal but for sure those who love it, they will revere this quality as setting it apart from other fragrances and in truth...it does. My girlfriend hated this one. I however liked Royal Mayfair my minor criticism would be it's a bit weak and lack luster. I think a deep wood base and drydown wouldn't have gone a miss. Instead you get a scent which never really kicks but delivers some rarely (if ever?)seen olfactory ideas. After all I would say that is what I look for in a fragrance so I can't fault it there. Royal mayfair is certainly no rehashing of done to death and tired concepts, (well...maybe one of it's own?) which it must be commended and given some credit for. Lasted reasonably on my skin but I think for the price you might feel short changed for anything other than beastmode strength. I would like to trial this properly and give a better appraisal because my instant thoughts were that I wouldn't wear it but I have a feeling it might be a grower this one.

Not a brand I'm that familiar with. I have tried several Sisley's but tend to leave them alone as I do with most 'Women only' brands. I know, I know I should be more open but I kinda like the restriction as the market is big enough without trying everything that comes out. Soir d'Orient is different though, I figured I'd pass comment on what is a fairly appealing fragrance. I say that as it is available in department stores but does have that niche slightly middle eastern edge. I say 'slightly' because this is firmly in the safe, modern, western camp but with a nod to oud and incense which instantly would make me take notice (If I was a woman) Yes I say that because this is still ultimately quite a feminine floral scent, not overbarely rosy and with a hint of pepper and resin and a base of woods. I just think it's a bit soul less and generic the bottle looks great if not a little deceptive, reminding me of Armani prive or those upper class gold/black combo oud/rose combinations. Sadly it doesn't deliver the goods. So really nothing to set this apart from a host of interesting orientals, still a nice perfume though. If it went a bit braver and smokey with the incense I might just wear it myself.

Quite simply this is as sweet as sweet gets in that approximated leather vibe which many many perfumes go for in the vein of Tom Fords Tuscan leather etc... Recently In response to a forum thread, I discussed at length the merits of these leather fragrances and the subtle differences between them. Although starting out quite leathery this one tends to go the way of AdP leather and sweetened up fairly quick. Don't get me wrong this is excellent perfume and at a jawdroppingly cheap price, a great alternative to TL and the likes. It's not quite got the richness or density of long lasting niche leathers and settles to a skin scent much more readily, only projecting gently. I can live with this though because the performance is still very good and it clings to clothes relentlessly. Monotheme have produced some great scents at prices which cannot be denied are bargain.