I love leather fragrances and the smell you get in most is an approximation of 'real' leather. Things like clive christian C (which I adore BTW) and Tom Ford Tuscan leather have an aggressive accord which smells very sharp. Some which have a very animal or woody nature coupled with oud like Dior Leather Oud and Cuir d'arabie but Cuir de Nacre is entirely different. There's yet another type which seem to be heavy in patchouli and earthy tincture coupled with the leather to create a 'dirty' feel. This one is vaguely reminiscent of YSL's Noble leather in that it's lighter and more powdery but still the YSL leans more toward the Tuscan leather end of the spectrum. Cuir de Nacre is an absolute triumph, such an true leather exuding from the top notes of this fragrance. A wonderfully accurate, soft, buttery leather note which evokes shoe shops, handbags and wallets. The mention of handbags includes the contents BTW lipstick and powdery make up vibes which to my taste never once lean too far into the realms of an 'older' lady type vibe. It's not aggressive enough for that the balance of iris, styrax, musk and cassis is perfect and as it dries down becomes less leathery and more powdery. This has a classy finesse to it and just smells really nice...If that leather lasted, was a bit stonger and less powdered I would hail this as the best leather I'd ever smelled. Longevity is okay but soft and retreats nicely which adds to the less intrusive feel overall.
Woah! This is heavy as hell and I should of expected it from Heeley. I often write witty concise reviews in my head which are full of interesting new words instead of the same old cliches I spout so frequently. Then when I come to write the review...Gone! Oh well The insanely sweet, Turkish delight rose in this creation provoked a completely different reaction the first time I tried it. I got an oud note in the very first sniff then detected a super sweet rose which just gets more and more pronounced, to which I thought this is going to be a Montale like effort and I'm going to hate it. Somehow it crossed over and got so intensely rosy and concentrated that it went all the way back around from awful to exquisite. It's very much like the Bubblegum chic in that it's so pungent it smells as far from natural or even floral as you can get and become a atomic chemical monstrosity, like some sort of food additive concentrate that's meant to be diluted at 1ppm. The result was weirdly enough I liked it for being so bonkers and FULL ON! My second trial came today and upon application I got a similar effect except this time I got the usual powder of expensive high end rose/oud's... a sickening urinal cake vibe, complete with urine! Maybe my skin was different today? I've really no idea? So I can't really decide what's going on? One thing is for sure Agarwoud is a nuts and has to be tried by rose lovers.
Opens like a musky masculine juice which is a perfect aromatic and quite potent in the opening. It settles to a juicy natural citrus and zesty orange/lavender top with vetiver, cedar and come herbal notes and cardamom. It's nice, a really clean, safe smell which is traditional and almost impossible to be offended by. However, it's not original or tasty enough to capture my attention. This house is good though that's two out of two for them so far. If you like a well blended classical stuff then it's worth checking I out. Longevity isn't bad and it projects really well at first, like for 1/2 hour or so.
Par 4 is a fresh fragrance which to me opens pretty aquatically and very similar to Agua de Loewe EL which is a gorgeous smelling fruity opening. Doesn't take long however for the development of a range of herbs, basil, clary sage and predominantly saffron. It smells almost exactly like Prada Amber, which is a great endorsement, a Superb, soapy, cleanness is the signature of this fragrance at it's heart is vetiver. 'Dominated by Labdanum and saffron' is not quite accurate to begin with but then the drydown progresses and becomes more and more true. The galbanum and woods in the base set this apart from either perfume I compared it to previously. Par 4 is a three act play, a triple threat which pocesses real quality. 1st act is a citrus and fruity note burst which is truly lovely. 2nd act is Prada Amber saffron/herby/soapy. 3rd act is resins and woods making a formidable base. Minor critism is the whole process is over a little quickly and longevity is poor but I can't wait to try this again I was really impressed.
The opening little puff of rose didn't indicate whether I would like this fragrance or not but as it settles it's my kind of deal. Balsamic, spicy, woody all good so far and the sandalwood develops as it dries down. Reminds me a tiny bit of the new Tobacco oud from Tom Ford. However there's nothing outstanding here and the longevity is pathetic, I mean seriously poor! I never smelled the original formulation but if this was stronger and more ballsy with more oud, good quality sandalwood, a longer lasting rose note and perhaps some more spices? It would be a winning (and completely different)fragrance. Don't get me wrong I like the smell but there's many better perfumes out there.
A cold opening juniper and mint jumping out right off the bat. The guaic wood and vetiver is present in the opening too then Isos proceeds to get spicier and spicier. It starts with pepper which builds into a clove note then in the drydown a sweeter myrrh. Isos is not too dissimilar to a recent perfume I tried, Paul Smith portrait and while it's notable I'd still describe this as being very unique and different in distinct stages throughout the experience. This fragrance has a unbelievable progression of notes everything listed comes through clearly and while I'm not mad about this fragrance I can ignore that sort of thing when it delivers so many complimentary components. A good unique fresh, spicy, woody fragrance and I can't wait to wear it properly.
I think Ceruleen means '...up the wahzoo!' This is an INTENSELY resinous warm, deep uber powdery amber... This is an attack of amber! The quality displayed here is great because it's all about balance. The opening is wierd the whole thing takes time to develop but when it does it's gorgeous! Rough, for just a moment a sweet, hot spice effect (a bit like cinnamon) coming from opoponax, then smooth tonka beans and sandalwood. This is an example of simple construction where the notes themselves have several facets which shine to create more than the some of it's parts. I like amber so naturally this scent appeals to me however I can definitely see how it would be too much for some. Update: So funny when I read a review then revisit a perfume years later, (April 2020) I think putting 'INTENSELY' in caps was a bit misleading but largely my thoughts are the same. This is one of those amber perfumes which smells barely there in the opening, no real top notes to speak off and sleek, sheer santal and coumarin merging all the resin into indistinct fuzz of warmth. Knowing perfume means you learn to detect little foibles and pick up on signs and a meek opening amber is usually a less full on experience than say a labdanum/incense heavy amber like TF's Amber absolute for instance. This is more laid back, powdery, balmy and lighter on it's feet but still just a massive chunk of a Base/Bass heavy perfume. I like it but compared to a million other amber's it doesn't announce itself nearly enough to warrant special attention, a pleasant wear though.
Massive Fig note in the opening which has all the juiciness and green qualities you'd expect, It's wild but not as much as diptyque's Philosykos. That lasts a few minutes then you're treated to a delicate woody amber. I'm not familiar with pear wood to be honest but the smell here is a fruity wood accord which I find very appealing. The drydown is delicate and blossom like... a kind of peachy powder. I'd prefer it on a woman, not that it's feminine but I don't think I'd wear it. Hasn't blown me away but is a very interesting start for a house which doesn't use conventional notes. I'm looking forward to some of the other samples I have.
Am I losing the plot here or what? Bois d'Argent? Two comparisons here and I don't think it smells anything like it. 450 has a delicious opening of sweet, sticky, amazing gourmand vibes and musk... Really it smells caramel like to me with a hint of powdery iris. This scent is all about amber for me, a straight up dusty amber accord which is balanced up not to be too sweet and compliment the other notes. I wouldn't have said this is a floral fragrance more of an oriental amber which smells edible to me. I love it, I have to say. First scent from this house and they're off to a blinder!
I look at the notes for this and think 'How did it go wrong?' but unfortunately it does. Something fundamentally wrong with the composition in my opinion, like a mixture of oriental and fougere type elements. I think the deep, boozy powder doesn't mix with the fir and lavender in fact the combo is strange. The opening is very nice and doesn't really hint at what it's going to drydown to, it's bergamot, fir and feels classic and masculine. Then the drydown is...well a bit of a let down. I get a tonka bean type creaminess, musk and lavender which just feels a bit done and reminds me of lots of fragrances. I hate to naysay this fragrance because it's okay and I could understand it having appeal but Frank fragrances are very average affairs from the two I've tried. Not daring enough to catch my attention I'm afraid.
Can't get around the fact that I like this fragrance it has that Herbal essences shampoo (not that I've smelled it in years) vibe to it. Angelic seed, floral notes...it's pretty nondescript to me, it has a freshness but I can't say I get mint from it? The opening is a juicy realisic orangey/bergamot to me but that doesn't last long before the shampoo comes on strong. It's a very clean smell and doesn't offend me but couldn't wear this as it's not what I define as fine fragrance.
Tzora is a mixture of earthy, herbal notes combined with a clean and masculine focus. Opens with bergamot and a strong blast of musk as the fragrance settles down it's all about the woody notes of cedar and vetiver but mainly vetiver. It's a peppery mixture too and the blend of bitter citrus notes coupled with the vetiver which smells very similar to two fragrances I own and enjoy...Terre d'Hermes and L'artisan perfumer Timbuktu. This is great stuff but not for everyone as it is to me anyway, quintessentially masculine. Longevity is a little disappointing but I will reserve judgement for the next time I wear it...I like the smell at least a faithful vetiver.
This is crazy stuff a concentrated effort in perfumery to evoke quite a sickly and (I suspect) acquired taste of a smell. It really does smell like bubblegum folks...the opening is quite the sweet shop explosion! It'll have you wondering 'where does the Chic come into this equation?' Well I'll tell you.... the synthetic smelling candy sweetness then becomes positively identifiable as tuberose and jasmine in a strong concentration which at first comes across undilute and chemical but then changes to naturally floral. This balance is maintained but flip flops back n forth. I like this kind of white floral but there's no chance I'd ever wear it.
Bam!!! Harissa opens with a stong, soapy powder of miscellaneous cleaning products which sounds bad right? However my experience of fragrances tells me that this is the effect of not seeing the wood for the trees and these usually make for complex and unusual perfume. Harissa certainly didn't disappoint on that front, bags of character then developed, such as the tomato vibe which reminded me of Blood Concept a little. The exception being that this composition has a warm breeze of spices which are harder to pin point although I swear I can smell the myrrh of palisander here too especially in the drydown. I'm at the drydown right now and honestly I can't stop sniffing myself. The tomato vibe has become less vegetable now and it's just a lovely soft scent. Again the longevity is average projection is a low skin scent, there's definitely a time and a place for scents like this. Like when you want to enjoy them yourself without others even catching wind of them. Once again another wear would be beneficial to suss out exactly what is going on. Verdict is good from me...Comme des Garcons are such a cool house!
The mixture of spices in Palisander perfectly conjures up a hot opening of cinnamon & clove. Due to the fact neither are present I have to put this down to the combo of saffron and spiced pepper notes. The sweet nature of myrrh comes out as it dries down further to reveal the rosewood base. One word for this fragrance...Knockout! I absolutely love the combination of sweet, dry and hot in this woody fragrance it's a really lovely thing and CDG seem to have these odd incense type vibes down to a tee. I find it to be more masculine due to the pimento and woods but it's one of those that is a bit of a oddball and as a result... very much unisex. The downside is the longevity which is tolerable because it lasts okay but goes down to a very low humming skin scent, and quite quickly too. The verdict is a resounding thumbs up from me although I'm not sure it's bottle worthy, needs another wear I think.
I finally got to try the enigmatic and illusive Black Agano! I've literally tried everything from Nasomatto except the hugely (in)famous Black Afgano. Illusive? Surely not? You may think due to it being massively popular, however I have been a victim of that popularity by not being able to get it anywhere due to it being sold out! It's not that I couldn't find it anywhere, sure there where places online but I couldn't justify a blind buy on such an expensive juice, without trying it first. I pretty much knew I would love it but always had doubts in my mind when reading and watching numerous reviews saying it smelled like 'play doh' and other bizarre and frightening things. As soon as I applied it I got a waft of MY signature accord and my fears melted away instantly. Believe the hype! Black Afgano is everything I love about fragrance, truly it's almost perfect...a sublime masterpiece. I really hate to gush like this but it was love at first sniff. Opens with a woody oud note, deep calming then a host of resinous beauty. The top notes are very similar to Myrrhe imperialé from Armani, infact it's similar throughout this fragrance. It's very slightly different with a more woody nature, less sharp with labdanum perhaps? I get the Mary Jane thing but if you're expecting a hugely earthy, or sweet green weed note prepare to be disappointed. It not sticky buds or somekind of modern ICE solid or something more that BA has a hint of a spicy moroccan hashish about it and reminds me of my days as a smoker...but only very slightly mind you. Black Afgano is about the smell of sharpness labdanum, resins, benzoin, myrrh etc...but with a softness nearly gourmand quality and Oud. The drydown is spectacular, deep long lasting and addictive. Longevity and projection are legendary what you'd expect from extrait de parfum and have certainly lived up to the hype in my experience. I have Myrrhe imperiale which I find very similar and usually I would think I have this base covered but I'd buy this anyway...that's how good it is!
I was in two minds at this fragrance at first not because it's a lean toward niche fragrance from a designer house or that it's jumping on the Oud bandwagon after it's been flavour of the month. I had no preconceptions in that regard the reason I was dubious was the opening, which doesn't knock you out it's very subtle spicy type vibe. A definite Oud in here from the get go but with fresh and bitter top notes and cardamom. I kinda feared it would develop into TF Oud wood a fragrance I don't care for. It is a little like that to begin with but then after a moment becomes NOTHING LIKE IT! Really this is a lovely, lovely Oud fragrance gentle, addictive, cerebral, slightly spicy it's wonderful! To be honest I was blown away and after no prior knowledge of this fragrance or it's notes I got three main elements, starts out Oud & cardamom and pepper, then the heart patchouli comes through more prominently then the drydown is a soft patchouli and mellow, woody Oud & saffron. Oh by the way the Oud & saffron vibe is present throughout and reminds me of a Kew gardens candle which is soooo gentle for those who like the less medicinal, softer edge of Oud. Good longevity, projection is soft but it's there and will be smelled, I love it super high quality smells very expensive. I thought I was over Oud (to an extent) but this fragrance really makes me want a bottle because it's so wearable and makes me sniff it in and exhale a sigh of satisfaction...the true sign of a great fragrance.
Vanilla Marble is insanely sweet and intensely gourmand. The opening is a wave of coconut, liquor and suncream type vibes reminds me of summer, it's heavy exotic if not a little synthetic. It's amazing how different almond can come across because here yet again it's strong a coconutty. Reminds me of a vanilla candle with a hint of floral sweetness from tiare flower...don't get anything else. My natural reaction was to like it in the opening because it's so sickly sweet and strong but yet again I couldn't wear this plasticy lotion type smell because it would cloy heavily. good longevity and projection though and if you like um sweet and playful as they come then this is the scent for you.
Super powdery musky opening, a fabric softner type vibe with a heavy touch of woods as it dries down the oud becomes apparent. I think the 'floral notes' are a mixture but there's definitely rose in there, it smells high quality but again not my scene at all. It's okay but I wouldn't wear perfume like this.
What on earth is the Flacon all about? Agonist have some really interesting bottles which are matched by the juice. This is a complex mixture which has a lovely black currant note which is warm for a change. A lavender top note which fades, Then nice vague florals which are kinda sweet and exotic and a slightly creamy heart of tonka and then dries down to patchouli. Nothing earthy or dirty about the patchouli it's handled perfectly, balance is the name of the game here. The infidel hasn't blown me away but it's another interesting and highly wearable scent from Agonist.
Comme des Garcons certainly know their incense and heady meditative woods. I was really looking forward to this having become a real fan of hinoki wood recently after familiarizing myself with the note. It's a soft woody/citrus type smell which is really gorgeous. Hinoki is what I expected in that it's a perfect note to build this kind of accord upon. Superbly woody, with the freshness of cedar, pine, cypress and my favourite... frankincense. Stunning, clean and hits the mark to me evoking the oriental vibes of a Buddhist temple crossed with and a Scandinavian forrest. Longevity (which is okay) and projection are not that great (in fact poor) but still Highly recommended.
Intoxicatingly strong opening of atomic almond which doesn't settle down into smelling like almond until the drydown. It's like a ultra gourmand, MEGA, MEGA powdery scent which is an interesting outing but a super weird choice of fragrance in my opinion. The iris note is pronounced and when in this context just adds to the existing powdery amber and almond...which doesn't give enough balance IMO. It puts me in mind of similar scents from Etat Libre d'Orange like La fin du Monde or the recent Valentino Uomo the main exception being they both go in different directions and have better balance and less intensity overall. I feel Alba is over the top, a lovely smell but too strong and cloying. Undeniably quality juice here again from profumum and the longevity refelects that.
CoSTUME NATIONAL 21 is a complex, creamy slightly dirty amber. It's smooth, not a sharp or sweet nose burning amber type fragrance, more powdery than anything. There's a little hint of spices in the opening prehaps from saffron and pepper? It's a really nice opening too, complicated and exciting. The main spice is cumin and it takes a moment to develop as it settles down. I like this scent, because it's a real amber accord not like Scent or Scent Intense which to me is not a typical amber despite what other people say on here. 21 does it's own thing and is not like the rest of the stuff from this house which tends to be cool, fruity, musky and a bit odd. I lost this fragrance in the middle somewhere, it's just not my thing, the major decision I make when it comes to fragrance is 'Would I wear it?' and sadly this is not one I have any desire to wear. Still good stuff though.
To me this fragrance is quite floral with a gentle spicy edge. I really enjoyed it and am looking forward to my second try. Bois bourbon is a boozy opening accented by saffron and cinnamon. The heart of the fragrance to me is woody and floral, the notes of heliotrope, lavender and rose are so complimentary and unified that they create a vague but sweet bouquet. It's reminiscent of dried flowers with lavender pot pouri. The birch coming through with a tar like smoke and backbone to it sets this off perfectly and although all that floral business smells nice the earthy woods make it wearable for folks who enjoy the more masculine notes. Actually as it dries down there's a turkish delight type rose note which develops which is velvety smooth and makes for a pretty lovely dry down...I'm enjoying it more and more. Good projection and longevity. All in all not bad and completes a very interesting collection of fragrances from Luckyscent.
