A classic floral Chypre here, when you see Tuberose, Castoreum and leather listed in the notes you should hold on to your hats and this is precisely what this fragrance makes you do. The opening is a blinding stinky musk which emanates at the beginning but soon vanishes into a sweeter floral tuberose. This then dirties, offering up some very special, floral qualities for folks who love that sort of thing. The middle section is a stunning leathery, tuberose with hints of the animal, I haven't experienced the base properly yet as it hasn't dried all the way down but speaking from experience of this kind of scent it will last FOREVER! When it finally does settle right back I predict any floral sweetness will dissipate leaving behind a musky castoreum. Brilliant, classical stuff again, just not something I would wear, who knows maybe one day I will change my mind?
Yes I can see the resemblance of sharper citrus, lemon & bergamot mixing with other fruit and berries smells in here to create a not far off pineapple type smell. However, having tried many Aventus clones or fragrances that truly have the same Pineapple note (Mazzzolari Nero) I have to say this isn't one of those. Not easily mistaken for Aventus in my opinion and as someone who is a great believer in the 'reminds me of...' option on here, I'm usually quick to concede that the majority of Fragranticans know better than me. However, I think in this case I think 65 Yes' is strongly misleading, especially as Cedrat Boise dries down and becomes less and less like the Creed at all. So what is it like? Well, after the fruity opening recedes it becomes a really nice masculine woody scent of cedar but upon a chunky base of patchouli and even a hint of vanilla just rounding everything out into a smooth, warm, feel good scent. I like it, lasts pretty well and smells manly enough, however the dry down does remind me quite heavily of a deodorant I had in the 90's. That's not a bad thing really but I'm not mad about this scent at the same time. I think it deserves the love it gets, just not for me.
I've been waiting to try this for a long time now and having been disappointed by Byredo so far I was starting to think this one might be overrated. Well I finally got my nose on it and I can tell you Pulp is fantastic! The opening is very, very intense sweet, jammy and definitely fitting of the name pulp. Then as it dries down becomes less tart with berries and more of a watery fig and some of that exotic floral, Tiare flower which I think makes this fragrance. Beautiful and exotic Byredo have struck upon something really good here, I want a bottle.
Deadidol nails the review below perfectly. Just to echo those sentiments about Aventus being a perfume which has made the pineapple note famous and therefore a comparison we can't help but draw. Nero is more effervescent, fizzing out of the bottle and right into your face with a sharper citrus feel, evoking a lemonade ice lolly or sherbet fizz. There's definitely more focus on the pineapple and berries here and less on woods and crucially... no smoke. To give Creed and Mazzolari some credit I think this is a very masculine smell and this one is of good quality and something is coming through in Nero to tone down the fruit. This release is relatively redundant to me as I have Aventus and clones but it maybe for someone who likes the pineapple of Aventus without the birch smoke? I remarked this was quality stuff but unfortunately it doesn't last.
My word! This stuff is absolutely stunning! Yes, it's feminine as it gets but still somehow palatable. The opening is a tropically sweet, exotic, fruit floral which mellows into more of a rounded vanilla as it settles. This has to be the conspiracy of orange blossom fruity and uplifting without the usual waxiness and the powder and character of delicate iris both of which are present. There's a hinted at chunkiness of patchouli too as it dries down but largely it's that vanilla and sandalwood and iris left at the base. It vaguely reminds me of a exotic, femme florientals the likes of a Black orchid but much softer, warmer and although sweet, still less cloying. It's honestly not for me to wear but I really enjoyed the sweet opening.
I'd never sampled a Byredo until a couple of weeks ago and I have to say I'm not impressed with the three I've tried. This is categorized in the 'mystic wood' section. A disappearing act the french might call 'Bois de santal secrète' perhaps? I usually like these fragrances, I can site two (and frequently do) which I love... Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin and Xerjoff Ivory Route but even these seem loud in comparison to this very, very, subtle fragrance. Gypsy water is a name with so much promise but sadly it doesn't deliver on it. The opening is a squeeze of lemon and pine needles then almost immediately 'shhhhushed' by vanilla and very uninspiring sandalwood. I say uninspiring because it seems to lean firmly towards creamy rather than spicy and with vanilla already lowdown, just serves to make this snug & cozy straight away. The freshness and 'watery' nature which may have been deliberate due to the name is juxtaposed against the softest base and for me doesn't work. It's too weak and barely detectable on my skin in minutes. Nothing to hate about the smell as such just nothing of it...not impressed.
I have to be firm and say I don't like this, nothing especially wrong with it but I see Comme des Garcon as futuristic, quirky scent trailblazers. Dot seems to have all the quirk but is seriously lacking in the usual innovative substance. I genuinely don't like everything from CdG nor do I think they are consistently good performers in strength or longevity but what I loved about them was their individuality and this just seems a bit of a half arsed effort. Seems sad that I would get so serious about such a lightweight of a fragrance, Dot is a flouncy fruity floral that isn't quite sure what fruits or flowers it is derived from? The shapeless, blobby bottle is about as about as focused and refined as the perfume inside. More feminine than anything and I'm sure ladies out there could find similar perfume aimed at young teens or celebrity fodder. I'm only disappointed and gave it a Dislike because it's CdG and I (perhaps unfairly?) expect more from them. Otherwise the smell is 'blah' and it doesn't last very long...that's all I can tell you.
Dear oh dear! The reformulation horrors were all true. I take back what I said about YouTube reviewer the Fragrance apprentice when I sat through his diatribe and figured he was overacting... and I still think he was to some extent. I never owned a bottle of the original myself but my dad had it, and I'm very familiar with the smell. This is quite pitiful really, it's still desperately trying to cling onto its former glory as there's a remnant of the cypress, cinnamon and woods in there but it's missing all the manly stuff and the oakmoss and leather which made it a true great. Now sadly it starts of like a bitter lemony booze (limoncello) then a powdery poof of something clean and soapy then cinnamon and very subdued woods in the drydown. Oh well I guess I had to see/smell for myself, I'm glad it was cheap. I'm not offended by it by any means and will persevere and see what it's like on subsequent wears but I doubt my opinion will change much. Is Italian Cypress a viable alternative to getting some of that greatness from the original, at the price point you'd perhaps say no but no doubt the Tom Ford smells great. My main gripe is that the longevity is not that good either...so where is my fix going to come from? Oh speaking of longevity, Z14 has died back to almost nothing already so I don't figure the longevity to be too good. Shame. Update: Actually some of the soapy, cleaner, awfulness of the opening has subsided and there's some very weak tones in the base, reminiscent of the more masculine oakmoss and woods I was missing. Definitely smells better now it's dried right down.
Yeah can't really add much to the reviews here other than Yuquawam is far less annoyingly in your face than other TL dopplegangers like Golden boy. I can definitely tell the difference between this and Tuscan leather too, Yuqawam is sweeter, certainly in the opening and has a far more pronounced raspberry note. It's rich and opulent and all the lovely things this sort of fragrance is but without as much of the dirt. This is what we want though, 'Leather' isn't it? TL has it and I would argue Clive Christian C has even more. The saving grace of Yuquawam is that it's inherently more wearable everyday than a TL or CcC because to me at least it has less of the special occasion about it. Really good again from Rasasi, I'll be wearing mine for sure.
Few perfumes hit you this hard with petitgrain in the opening, fizzy and citrus like but lacking in any sort of yesty refreshment. As Mister Marvelous settles down a bit it does get slightly pissy I'm afraid, but hey I can deal with that as I sort of find it interesting when it's not too dominant. I think the neroli coming through gives it a saving lift but the base is a peppery cedar which again doesn't help with the overall vibe of this perfume. Not something I'd wear I'm afraid, Byredo aren't doing particularly well in my favour being a house I hadn't tried until now. I don't hate it but put it this way, we can't talk longevity I'm afraid, because it got scrubbed.
Opens with almost cream soda like playful vanilla which soon dissipates to reveal a throbbing Amber core. The sweetness retreats too which is welcome and it becomes much more dusty, and woody after a sweet couple of hours. There could even be a hint of patchouli earthying up the drydown but make no mistake this is an amber dominant fragrance of the highest quality and lasting power. Really, really good stuff for Orlov and I only applied a tiny amount and it lasted for hours. I rate flame of Gold but does it have enough to set it apart from other high quality ambers? That's for you to decide....I'm saying it's worth a sniff and was a pleasure to wear for me.
Just to say I think the reviewer below was smelling something different to me, I get no rose or patchouli in here? I'm a fan of Ambroxan for the record, although obvious and seemingly flavour of the month at the moment, it's a versatile base for fragrances to go in any direction. It can be clean and masculine, the base for a citrus/aquatic (as it is here) or even warming, underneath more oriental notes. I'm also a fan of ELDO because of the quirk they seem to get into most of their creations, but in all honesty, this is less unique. Herman opens with a big clean fruity/floral vibe and a generic aquatic type feel. It's kinda exaggerated in the opening which is obviously what the house were going for but I'm afraid after that it's a little flat, fading back to a nice fresh skin scent. Personally I like it, My girlfriend liked it too, commenting that it's something she would wear, rather than me and I think she's right there. It seems to last okay but very low in the mix, which after quite a loud and pronounced opening, seems disappointing but perhaps isn't? The thing with ELDO fragrances is that there's always a jarring note or a twist in the tale and unfortunately, I was waiting and it just didn't come. I'm still somehow satisfied with Herman...in it's rawest essence I like the smell...simple.
I can only imagine it must be the 'Fig tree' note in here which makes Sandalo Nobile open so much like a fresh wonderful fruity smell, I can literally feel the fibrous innards as the juicy flesh is torn open. I think it's the most accurate and beautiful fig note I've ever smelled, it's also reminiscent of a real plum, not the jammy sweetness we think of as 'plum like' in perfumery, plum Japonais or CdG Floriental etc...this is a genuine green smell, more like that of Philosykos. Then proceedings start to get powdery, a lovely Iris note backed with creamy sandalwood but hints of the fig in there too. I think this fragrance has wonderfully complimentary ingredients but something doesn't quite ring true about it for me? I'm not sure if I think it's a bit too feminine for me or that it's just too clean, there's not enough dirt in here for my liking? Still a great fragrance if not just for that opening...not something I'd wear but totally worth checking out for sure. Update: 23/01/23 It's interesting when I look back on reviews like this, it's usually to say that I was wrong for being so down on a fragrance, but in this instance I'd say I don't really have the same enthusiasm I clearly had back in the mists of 2016. I still like the opening but it's kinda more of the coconut facet of fig leaf that I get rather than the lush greenery of fig flesh now. The body is a musky, creamy sandalwood which is very pleasant clearly well crafted but does little to excite me. So, My feelings have ended up being largely similar.
Comparisons to Jubilation XXV (I've seen a couple below) are unfounded really, other than Londinium containing notes of berries and resin. The truer comparison came to me pretty much instantly. Despite thinking I have a fairly vast knowledge of fragrances now I often go completely blank when I try things in store. What usually happens is that I know a scent smells familiar but can't place it right away. Londinium however was instant...'squirt'...."Spicebomb?...No...Gucci PHII!" That's it folks Londinium is a sparkling thick, berry like, sweet spiced opening but with all the metallic tea and everything from PHII but definitely hyped up. Londinium is more boozy and not as musky and aloof as the Gucci but no where near as blatant and sledgehammer like as Spicebomb, It's a really good balance. However, the fact that I own both of the comparison scents is slightly off putting but that's not to say Londinium doesn't have it's own unique charms and allure because it definitely does. Lasting power was average to pretty good and the fruity top notes stayed strong for several hours which is a big plus.
EOh snap!!! I'm in love big time with this fragrance. I always foolishly overlook Molton Brown as a 'serious' fragrance contender but this is incredible stuff. As soon as I smelled the stunning opening I was like "Wow! Oud!" Not what I was expecting at the price point, until I realised this one is more pricey than the others in this range and it makes sense too, the quality is evident immediately. Yeah anyway is a kind of spice bizarre of Oud, sandalwood, with saffron coming on stronger and stronger as it settles, heady almost plasticky, earthiness The saffron is almost too much even for me and it's one of my favourite ingredients. Seriously the balance in Shisur is just right making it potent and smooth at the same time. I've smelled a few fragrances similar to this before but nothing quite the same, I'm a total sucker for Oud and saffron, then sandalwood and spices, put them all together and basically I'm happy, certainly in this context the Oud & Saffron smells quite different to even one of my big favourites MFK Oud. Superb Molton Brown! Well done and no doubt I will have to get this fragrance it is immense!!! I don't even have to wait for it to drydown to know it will take me on a journey of hedonistic, woody pleasure. Take me now Shisur I'm all yours! Update: as predicted the saffron smooths out and gets silkier, the Oud and sandalwood create a warm, sweet, humming bed of loveliness. I think I'm going to get this. It isn't cheap £95 for 50mls but I'm enjoying it so much I don't think I can pass it up? Longevity is good but it's a very subtle skin scent, but I'm more than happy with the performance. The testers I tried had some really poor sprayers but the actual bottle is nice looking and the TDH style twisting lock sprayer is an innovative and nice touch (providing you get one that functions correctly!) from Molton Brown adding value to what is quality scent already but perhaps needs that perception of quality to achieve such a price. Although having said that the rest of the line are in these bottles and some are only £65...anyway nevermind.
Not much to say about this one, except for that it's a very nice vetiver. Simple, incredibly smooth and palatable, perfect scent for summer with the fresh uplifting hint of citrus & greens in the opening giving way to a truly clean vetiver. There's a dash of earth in there too from some moss, Monotheme don't disappoint, producing yet again, a really decent fragrance. There's actually been a packaging change which usually means a reformulation, I actually got the opportunity to try both versions and I have to say they are both really nice. One lasted longer than the other, unfortunately I got my arms mixed up and I don't know which one was which? The older formula (bottle & box pictured here) or the newer version. (dark green bottle) Lasting power is a problem across the board for Monotheme but they are so well priced and great smelling that I really don't care if they only last a couple of hours. I know some pricier vetivers that are nice from Jo Malone or Diptyque that don't last either, so why not get this instead? If you like vetiver I'd check out Vetiver Bourbon, it isn't quite up there with Guerlain or Tom Ford but a worthy purchase for sure.
Okay...So I get the 'smells like Raghba' or '24 Gold' but that is but a tiny part of the story. I cannot understand the criticism waged against this great fragrance? The opening is a smokey, dense guaic wood and creamy sandalwood which doesn't quit, it's peppered and spicy. This scent to me comes off as more of an incense based thing than anything else. Sure there's that sugar sweet Arabic tone to the whole composition but all in all much less cloying than the original Raghba or indeed 24 Gold. Intense wood actually delivers more promise of woodiness than 24 Gold Oud edition did and I was even pleased with that one. I'm so glad I didn't get the original Raghba (although very nice) as I felt I had that base well and truly covered with the Scent Story fragrances I own. Intense wood on the other hand is a valued fragrance in my arsenal. Last well on my skin and there's enough of everything else going on to counter the cloying sweetness...at this price you can't complain, it's a real winner this juice.
I took a huge punt on Tobacco blaze considering it's fairly pricey but still cheap for the quality compared to say...Tom Ford. Oh while we are on the subject I decided to get this Yuqawam as apposed to the much talked about on here Tuscan Leather one, because I wanted to be surprised by the smell and despite reading reviews beforehand, Tobacco Blaze has certainly done that! I honestly can't say I'm convinced by this yet but what it has delivered is a interesting but not totally unique experience. The opening is a dark, ashy sort of affair which is dry and unpleasant like a burnt tobacco. Lingering only a molecule or two underneath this vail of ash is a poofy, lighthearted fruit affair which opens like passion fruit and soon dries to an unmistakable creamy apricot yogurt smell. This is all well and good but then Tobacco blaze starts to get more powdery leather with floral hints just peeping through. The ash like, spiced wood smell reminds me of ELDO Jasmine et cigarette and a patchouli dry note (which reminds me of that rough, recycled type paper you got in primary school...was it called sugar paper?) with the apricot note persisting throughout. My main complaint with this fragrance is...Did smokey and apricots every have to meet? Really? The jury is still deliberating, overall I'm happy with the purchase because It's a talking point of a fragrance and part of a family of scents I like very much. Everything said Tobacco blaze is a success of a blind buy and performance & silage are very good, the presentation is fantastic. I've got a feeling this one will grow on me.
I've been waiting ages to try this and that anticipation has turned to disappointment upon trying. Is Lancôme Autre Oud a very opulent and nice smelling dark woody, Oud rose with earthy hints of saffron, patchouli and smooth resins??? Well yes it is...and by far not the worst I've tried in fact it's quite lovely but nothing to set it apart by the same rule. I had kinda hoped it was more like Rose d'arabie or Xerjoff's 'more than words' and then I would've definitely purchased as the amazing flacon tipped me over the edge. High quality, lasts forever and smells really good but this sort of fragrance has to have the most minor of tweaks, that lightness of touch to elevate it and make it world class. Thinking in cookery terms that next level from an already superior dish to something 2-3 mitchelin star level. I had expected that from this hearing all the positive reviews and in my humble opinion it doesn't deliver making it just another Oud rose if not a very lovely one.
Dear, oh Dear! Just when I thought Paul Smith had sorted his act out fragrance wise, he releases this banal, drivel of a scent. I thought getting in the perfumer he did on Portrait would spark a glut of cool, interesting releases...but sadly not. Paul Smith Essential is a soaped up, messy composition which to me is stingy and harsh in the opening and for a good hour or two before a vaguely more pleasant drydown. The effect is clean and not dissimilar to Gucci's excuses for a men's line...but somehow cheaper smelling. Not a bad move I suppose, because men will continue to buy these fragrances and I will continue to moan about them, inevitable really? Like the movement of the planets or the tides...this was set in motion long before I was around and it's sure to go on long after I'm gone. Sorry to be so down on this fragrance, I expect if it was a new release from an unknown house I wouldn't be so hard on it. I just expect someone as creative as Paul Smith to strive for more when associating his name with a fragrance. Probably still sells and I expect that's why he's the millionaire designer and I'm some faceless internet gimp, moaning about scented water. Still... Worst fragrance ever.
Just because this isn't typical of a sandalwood perfume, doesn't mean it doesn't smell like sandalwood, because it does. The sandalwood manifests itself differently here, a very laid back cologne approach with aromatic woods and gentle spicing. Generally its calming lavender and clean vetiver with a hinted at, creamy wooden heart which is more soapy than anything else. I like it but can't say it's the most exciting or well composed example of the Sandalwood genre. The performance was pretty dire too and was all but gone far too quickly.
Have Calvin Klein recaptured the spirit and success of the 90's CK One with CK2...? Well not quite but perhaps partially? I acquired a sample of another new(ish) fragrance on the same day and I have to say CK2 out did it massively. It's quite the understated, metro sexual (rather than unisex) juice. CK2 has an opening of freshness and green qualities which take it to new levels, truly the freshness of this fragrance is something to behold. It doesn't feel chemical or harsh or aquatic like, just very very fresh. It didn't annoy me or become cloying, just sits low and hums naturally if slightly femininely. I don't say this as a criticism, others would see it as a perfectly androgynous entity but I get a slightly translucent, ladylike, summer scent when it's settled. The level of pretentiousness is in danger of disappearing up it's own backside, when we talk about 'Pebble notes' but I can forgive them in this case as I can get the association. I wish I got the wasabi but sadly I just don't. However, there is some spicing here but very subtle and more reminiscent of a very, very, light incense maybe something like moschino Forever(+ Forever sailing)? The base is woody for sure, clean vetiver and more predominantly as it dries down, a warmer, powdered feel emerges I detect the orris root but something more associated with a few recent releases. Can you guess? Well it's ambroxan and in the same way that these minimalist creations have been dividing opinion, CK2 has transformed over the course of a few hours from a one thing into another. I like it, I have to say, you'd go a long way to find something fresher, especially in the opening. It's not groundbreaking but comes along at a time where there's many worse, fresh fragrances to choose from. Lasting power was average and projects lighty but maybe more than I expected for such a translucent fragrance. The bottle and campaign are innovative enough but ultimately you've seen it all before. Bravery should be rewarded and if this fragrance was as weird as the notes suggested, I would more than willing to praise it. However, everything said I would wear this happily in summer and smell very nice, and that is it's purpose. Update: 22/07/21 I actually bought this. I got it knockdown price. I'm fascinated by the CK aesthetic, pebble note bs and all! There's a touch of Joy to everything they make, one might make the assumption that they just just bang stuff out there, flanker after flanker but Calvin Klein consider their releases more than many other brands, guaranteed!!! So it's a sparse structure pushed out with transparent aroma-chemicallyness(TM) BUT I'm partial to a bit of that. This has a perceptible fresh top, a definite but at the same time nondescript floralcy and then a hint of warmth in the base, it's not irritating cotton candy or BR540 but there's a certain hiding sweetness that is clearly derivative but is so mild in the mix it works unlike all the saccharine sweet monstrosities of modern designer releases. Won't blow your socks of but functional for summer heat and smells pretty good.
Unfortunately the tester I managed to locate a few weeks back had been broken the previous day according to the SA. Frustratingly although the bottle was full I only managed to eek out a minuscule amount of fragrance. I can't base a review on it unfortunately but what I deduced was a complex scent which definitely has elements of the original. The main thing I got was a spicy, white floral thing with a woody base, kind of interesting in the way Icon was. I will update when I get a proper sniff and some samples to wear.
Finally I've found a tester that worked, I was beginning to think I was cursed and doomed to never actually find a properly working tester or samples but luckily I found both. As I suspected from my first review this is a complex beast, mainly comprised of a warm but synthetic Oud accord which is surrounded by opulent earthy saffron, musk and a fresher peppery accord from the original Icon. I genuinely think it's clever the way Absolute still has this nod to Icon while being a totally different fragrance in many ways and a new direction for Dunhill a brand I already like. Lasts okay on me but not great thing is it just smells right up my street in terms of slightly Arabian in flavour with the synthetic vulgarity of Montale then with the modern, western elements of a masculine fragrance. My only minor criticism is the price and I'm not normally someone to quibble about such things but £90 is a little steep. Having said that I will probably still get it and the factor that pushes me over the edge is the wel crafted bottle. What a fantastic design in either silver or gold.
I think 'powdery notes' is the best way to describe the poofy opening of this fragrance but then almost immediately turning to a white chocolate vibe. I must say I really, really like this subtle gourmand approach. As Flower L'Elixir settles though it's much more of a vanilla and deep caramel than the hint of berries and maybe something similar to orris in the opening? I like it...A straight up creamy, sweet fragrance which has a very light touch, which is a good achievement in that it isn't cloying but bad in terms of longevity and scent trail, both of which are very fleeting. I don't try 'feminine fragrances' (let me clarify...fragrances marketed towards women with notes typically I don't enjoy.) as often as perhaps I should but I do remember trying the original Flower and it was nothing nearly as enjoyable as this change of direction. Worth checking out for gourmand fans just let down by a lack of staying power.
