Bergamote 22 zaps me into believing I'm ready for a busy work day. Lasts a good 4 hours before fading into a nice musk and vetiver scent. This is my favorite Le Labo to date
⁝
share
Spicy, leathery gingerbread at the outset that swiftly turns into a very potent dark rose. This gradually diminishes, turns slighty medicinal in the drydown, then there's a soft, pleasant incense to round it off.
This is a perfectly acceptable scent, and that intense rose core is very striking, but overall that's not enough to make this creation particularly noteworthy, pleasant though it is.
The opening is salty and mineral and seaweedy. This isn't the still scent of a tropical beach somewhere, it's somewhere more exposed, on a north sea coast, sliding shingled stone underfoot, and with a bitter wind blustering around you, the sea blue-black and choppy.
That briney, somewhat vegetal tang never fully leaves throughout the scent's lifetime. It does grow darker though, definitely a heavy woodiness, but it's decaying driftwood, drenched in the ocean and thrown up in a coastal cove somewhere, still cold and wet, and with the sea's scent permeating its structure. It's very musky too, the combined effect of artificial oud and ambergris, I guess.
Revived for the third time, quite how this distinctly polarising creation ended up in Tom Ford's Signature Collection must be down to the fact that those who love it REALLY love it, and the company forsee this group driving sales for the forseeable future. Though, frankly, I would not be at all surprised if it it falls by the wayside yet again.
Which would be a proper shame: it's my favourite of the current Tom Ford line, by several light years, and a reminder that the house used to take really quite bold risks with their releases. Savour it while you can.
Almost archetypal CDG cedarwood, mixed with pine, frankincense and patchouli. The obligatory obligatory house style left field notes come into play as well, in the form of a grey, metallic tang, and something that reminds me of nearly-dry gloss paint.
If you are at all familiar with the CDG range, there aren't many surprises here. It's pretty linear, obviously designed to appeal to a fairly mainstream audience, but is none the worse for that. Apart from an uncharacteristically strong opening, it has the airiness and lightness you would associate with the brand, and it while it won't revolutionise your world, it's still an attractive, slighly off-kilter scent. Suitable for most occasions, apart from the height of summer.
This fragrance is such a bomb. I just got a 10ml bottle from a discounter because it currently is not sold in the U.S. As soon as Aaron sells this in the U.S. I’m getting a full bottle. Aaron also has other scents in his line that are amazing!
One of the best allrounder fresh-woody scents. for a cologne it preforms like a eau de parfum, with a fantastic longevity (8-12h) and a medium sillage. It‘s fresh with being weak, also woody-Leathery with a very masculine vibe. It’s nickname with my wife is my “Dad-smell”. It’s reliable, perfect value for money and out of this world preformance for something that is marketed as a cologne. I would not recommend it for guys under 25, it would smell a bit out of its place but that‘s personal. If you want a classy, dad like, italian luxury at it’s finest, then AdP Colonia Intensa is the fragrance for you.
A good take on Oud, combining Oud with mineral/aquatic notes is done with good skill. It creates a good allrounder-scent with medium sillage and a good 6-10 h on skin. A Metallic-mineral opening, combined with some spice notes and a not so animalic Oud dry down. I get why people have sort of love/hate relationship with it, but to me it’s a good allrounder, a workplace/holliday everyday scent.
This is the biggest cliche you can write when reviewing this one, but… best budget Vanilla fragrance you can buy. Literally the only real contender it has is Liquid Brun, which is a Althair clone, which APPARENTLY smells a decent bit like Club Black y to begin with. I would also throw Zara’s Immortal Vanilla into the conversation, although that’s marketed exclusively to women so you’ve got to get over that before you buy it, and some people find the Coconut note in that really off-putting, either because it’s too synthetic for them or they find it too sunscreeny, both of which I can’t argue with, if that bother you it bothers you. But yeah, if you tied me to a chair and made me choose, until I get my nose on Liquid Brun I’m picking this one. Best budget Vanilla on the market.
You have to know you like Vanilla though because that’s pretty much the main thing you’re getting from it. It does take on a slightly salty aspect as it dries down which I think might be the Ambroxan, and I guess the incense makes it a bit lightly smoky, but I don’t get any of the Bergamot, I don’t get any of the florals, I don’t get much of the woods, if they’re there then they’re playing a VERY background supporting role on my skin, for me this is pretty much just a very tasty-smelling Vanilla, so if you want a bit more nuance from a perfume with that note then you probably should look somewhere else at the Cheapie end of the scale. The Immortal Vanilla I already mentioned would honestly be a good place to start.
In my personal opinion it leans more to being the masterpiece of Julien Rasquinet than just a fragrance. it‘s the perfect blend of spicy warmth and freshness at the same time, meeting manly woody, leathery warmth and comfort. In that same way it blends oriental and western style fragrance in the most briljant way. It’s special but approchable, really present but not overpowering, it’s elegant, gentlemanly but also mystirious and hard to capture. It’s story of the enclave in Oman is a very good one, capturing freshness and desert heath really tells the story of it‘s duality in a very scenic way. Overall: a very versitile scent that you can wear in a suit in a boardroom, in shorts allong the italian or French coast or on a rainy cold day. To me, it will always bring a smile to my face.
An oriental Woody spicy scent that lingers and transports you to the warmth of the desert and the spice of the silkroads. It’s not to harsh, yet present and smooth. Great scent that suits any occasion, maybe not for the hottest days of the year, but that‘s a personal choice.
The more I sample ELDO fragrances, the more I come to realise that, although the house projects an image of producing work that is adventurous and edgy, their scents are actually really rather conventional, but given a mild twist (I haven't, to be fair, sampled the notorious Secretions Magnifique).
This image seems to infect reviews of their perfumes too. Case in point: Archives 69. There are so many that class this as being unwearable, whereas I smell this and think, that's really nice. And then I think, do I just have a tolerance for really weird shit?
Whatever. This is peppery camphor at the outset, and it settles down to a frankincense- floral core that at times smells oddly like rose, though the notes list it as vanilla orchid. Not that I would have the slightest idea what that particular flower smells like, but it smells like a rose, apparently. There are sweet fruity notes too, with the prune especially evident, along with the odd whiff of orange. Finally, there's an animalic, musky patchouli to earth it all down and stop it being a disparate, unconnected mixture of scents. By the end, it settles to a mild, powdery incense.
I like this a lot, and it's my favourite ELDO creation by a very long way. It still doesn't strike me as being particularly experimental, and this may in part be because it's supremely well blended. Kudos to Christine Nagel for managing to pull that off. Possibly a full bottle purchase is in the offing, once my little sample is finished.
Cheapo alternative to Wood Sage and Sea Salt, sharper in tone and with more pith. It's a clean and minimal vetiver, bitter and a little herbal, with the salty sea air vibe of the original.
Relatively short-lasting (also like the original) No, it's not as subtle, and the sharpness threatens to become headache-inducing, reminding me of whatever ingredient it is that's in some Issay Miyake creations that produces the same reaction. Still, it's very pleasant and ideally suited to the warmer summer months.
I so wanted to love this. Marine smells are a positive weakness of mine, as long as they don't stray into dreaded blue territory, and the scene this is intended to evoke (walking along the beach on a cold, breezy day, the waves all dark and choppy) seemed right up my alley.
And it does evoke that scene to a degree: there's an ozonic quality, an airy freshness, then it dries down to a salty wood base that combines with something that reminds me of candlewax, for some reason. It smells very pleasant: and that's the problem, namely it never moves beyond the realm of pleasant. I wanted to be wowed, transported, to be faced with the sea in all of fury and glory, but it's too tame for that, too insipid, and then it dissipates so quickly that even those initial associations are gone and what remains is an agreeable vetiver-wood combo that isn't a million miles away from so many other scents on the market.
TX Maxx bargain bin special. Citrus infused cedar wood and leather with a pleasing, slightly bitter pine backdrop morphs into something lighly spiced and floral. The base is a pungent patchouli that is not dissimilar to an unwashed metal ashtray.
This is lot better that it need be for its price point. There's nothing terribly radical here, and at certain points it veers towards Ombre Leather territory, but it has more development and interest. Not at all bad for a cheapie and worth investigating.
This is magnificent, but far removed from what I had anticipated. I had expected to smell like an unfeasably wealthy Arabian prince who chain-smoked his way through 60 Marlboro Reds a day. Instead, this is oddly close to a gourmond, especially in the opening, which is a blast of fenugreek, aniseed and liquorice, mixed with soft caramel and chocolate. It's Amouage, so it's very powerful, undoubtedly too potent with even a hint of warmth in the air, but it positively unfurls in colder weather.
As it settles it mellows to a birch tar amber incense, heavy on the frankincense, mildly animalic, mixed with musky rose. It's still sweet, still herbal and spicy, but much more reserved ( and hence, wearable in general company). Oddly, I don't really get much in the way of tobacco at all.
As with most Amouages, its stength means spare application is necessary, but it's one of the more approachable house creations, and one I would wear in most situations.
The silky part is nice but it classes with the woodsy part. It’s a nope for me.
Mature, seductive but playful. Gets a lot of compliments because of that bold iris in the heart of the fragrance. The fresh bergamot disappears in a few minutes after you spray it but the chestnut note which follows is absolutely dreamy and pretty much lasts for 3-4 hours. Even though the notes list whiskey in it, don't let that put you off. It doesn't have that boozy, harsh alcohol smell but a more smoky finish. Lasts about 10hrs on clothes.
Can't wait to rock this more often when it gets a bit more colder outside.
Someone is wearing Tobacco Vanille, which they insist has been reformulated by aliens and, smelling it, you are not certain that it hasn't.
At the same time, they are crushing gabalnum in an unwashed metal ashtray, before suddenly abandoning it, deciding instead to recreate Ken Russell's Altered States by clambering into an empty galvanised water tank.
However, this fails miserably as they forget to actually fill it with water. Defeated, they lie there on the floor staring up at the grey, polished walls and decide to burn some incense before passing out.
You suspect said person may have been ingesting sizeable quantities of hallucinogens.
This is such an odd perfume. It uses several ingredients you would normally associate with a warm, comforting scent, but offsets them against the prominent copper note to create something that's cold and distinctly unsettling. I don't wear it often, but when I do, I kind of love it.
Imagine someone has taken several kilos of the cheapest smelling pot pourri, distillied it down to a few drops of the harshest and most intense scent imaginable, one that makes your nose hairs combust if your dare apprach it within a 50 meter radius, and you have Oud al Layl.
So it was a scrubber. In fact a five times scrubber, because that's how many attempts it took to get rid of this unspeakably vile, tenacious concoction. By the fourth attempt, it diminished to a level where it was bearable and there was the suggestion that somewhere in amongst this hideous, beyond beast mode creation, there was the beginnings of a mildly tolerable perfume. But frankly, that's about the only positive I could find: there are some fragrances that are challenging but which reward investigation, and there are others that are just nasty, clumsy and cheap. Oud al Layl falls in the latter category.
Reader, I hated it (if you hadn't gathered that already).
Nice sweet amber fragrance. I use it to layer. Very versatile and affordable.
Someone has crushed up a tube of parma violets sweets, poured them into a full makeup bag, then has given it a good shake, the contents spilling into the interior in the process.
This done, the entire concoction is tipped over you while you sit in the shade of a lilac tree, sipping orange juice.
This is sweet and floral, very powdery and more than a little sickly at times. It's partly redeemed by the patchouli-amber base and had this been given a little more prominance, it would have provided more balance overall.
Marketed as a perfume for young, carefree women, it remindes me instead of the sort of thing Are You Being Served's Mrs Slocombe would douse herself in, in preparation for a day of standing at the store counter, looking at all the customers with a supercilious expression.
I didn't completely dislike this, oddly enough, but as perfumes go, it's a competent but rather unremarkable creation, one that doesn't really distinguish itself before fizzling out in a dusty pink whiff of anonymity
I can never work out Issey Miyake's marketing strategy: some of their best releases seem to get very limited distribution and disappear without trace. This, on the other hand, seems to be getting a sizeable push. Maybe it's because they have golden boy Quentin Bisch at the helm, or maybe they think they have a sure fire, mass-pleasing scent on their hands.
Which this assuredly is. It's clean and minimal, ozonic and oceanic, which means it has that salty, seaweedy odour at the outset, offset with a mild, astringent note of ginger. At times it almost seems powdery. This settles to oakmoss and wood, along with a hint of vetiver, accompanied by the trademark Bisch metallic tang.
A couple of things surprised me about this. One was its restraint, and the other was how successfully Bisch has managed to integrate his style into the Miyake DNA. A lot of the Miyake fragrances have a sharp, almost bluntly strident note that dominates, especially at the outset. This manages to avoid that, but at the same time, it's unmistakably a house creation. It's well-blended, and although there's nothing particularly original in the composition, it smells really pleasant. There's something very stark and sheer about it all, and you can easily imagine its wearer occupying one of those uncluttered converted warehouse New York lofts that at one time everyone seemed desperate to emulate.
It's resolutely mainstream and there's nothing here that pushes the boundaries, but those sorts of fragrances have their place too. I could see this fitting into almost any sort of setting, and at most times of the year: so in that respect its almost a textbook example of a dumb reach scent. I'm not sure I'd pay full price for this, but might be tempted if a bottle becomes available on the grey market.
A trip into outer space. Or maybe inner. Or maybe both. The overexcited description of the perfume's inspiration certainly implies as much, as does the 2001 inspired promo film accompanying its release. There is much talk of supernovas and infinity and reverberations of cosmic ambers. So far, so purple.
Ignore all of that: what does the perfume actually smell like? Kind of gorgeous, actually. It takes stock ingredients and combines them in unexpected ways. The opening, peppery blast of incense? It sparkles somehow. The juniper-wood undertow has unanticipated spaciousness and depth. The dirty, mineral, ambergris base is dark and a little bewildering. It really is suggestive of outer space, or the idea of outer space, the reality apparently being the much less palatable scent of burnt meat, gunpowder and piss.
Like all the Rubini perfumes, this reveals its secrets slowly. I’ve been wearing it a lot over the few months, and every time a new facet sneaks out. It also blooms in the open air, and especially in the cold, which allows the individual notes to really emerge. Both ambitious and deeply romantic, it's probably my favourite of the entire line, edging out the greasy overalls and petrol scent of Nuvolari. I'm a bit wowed by it, actually.
Powdery rose at the outset, I don't get the violet notes listed at all. There's a sly dig of raspberry, a fairly soft leather, and the merest hint of sweaty cumin. Initially it seems rather tame, but every so often the ingredients seem intensify in an almost aggressive manner, before receding again. In time, the leathery notes dominate, while at the same time it turns intensely powdery. Finally, there's a long drydown when a somewhat animalic amber pushes through.
Although the putain in the name almost certainly refer to a woman, this seems a pretty unisex perfume to me, so it could equally refer to a man and, indeed, a man could pull it off pretty easily (no pun intended). A pleasant, well-executed mainstream scent, it’s nowhere near as edgy as its name might connotate, and it suggests not so much carnality in a French boudoir as someone with somewhat questionable hygiene standards disguising the scent with overapplication of makeup