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My Signature
627 reviews
I thought I loved it, but every time I wear it I like it less, culminating in today's wear, which I found myself scrubbing after ten minutes. The aldehydes are very loud and cheesey, and although there is incense, there's not enough going on to balance out the aldehydes. Many houses seem to be releasing aldehyde forward scents again. For example Frédéric Malle with Acne Studios, this latter perfume being far more interesting than New Look 2024. As another reviewer said, this comes off as budget Serge Lutens, and I actually disagree with what that reviewer said about the lack of rough edges here, as to me the aldehydes veer too caustic. This and Spice Blend are firmly my least favourite from the Dior exclusives, which on the whole I find to be more hit than miss.
This is an incredibly beautiful scent skirting the lines between deep iris/orris floral, traditional "masculin" aquatic and fougère, but with that special Dusita magic. It's quite similar to, but surpasses, Relection 45 by Amouage. The Dusita is less "SMELL HOW RICH I AM" and more, "mmmmm smell the creamy orris swirling with the delicious moss and jasmine", and I can't get enough of it. This may actually take the spot of my previous favourite Dusita perfume, Oudh Infini. Second day wearing it, oh my, it's better than I thought. It manages to be so familiar but not derivative. It makes me feel like, yes, this is how I'm meant to smell right now. The subtle aquatic freshness against the creamy, leathery orris is so delicious, and while it's sweet, the herby aspects keep the sweetness in check. The drydown reveals dry thyme and resinous incense, but no heavy hand has been used for any one element, so it's a dynamic perfume that shifts and ebbs over time. So so good, it's currently the perfume I'm wearing the most, and it's uplifting and joyous every time I apply it.
I'm surprised to find that this is less repulsive than Secretions Magnifiques (a scent I sometimes enjoy privately but I do also sometimes hate). When I opened the parcel containing this decant, I immediately caught a faint vomit smell and was hesitant to even touch the vial. But then I took it out and sprayed it on a card strip (caveat, I haven't put it on my skin). While there are definitely semblences of vomit and shit in the scent, to my nose it's no more than you get from some oud based fragrances. It's essentially a barnyard floral scent with a pungent, fecal, animalic note, but if I hadn't read all the hyperbole I'd just accept this was an expensive, bold oud perfume. Maybe my opinion will change if I wear it but for now, on card, I'm finding it quite interesting. -------- Now I'm wearing it on one wrist... The opening truly is disturbing, and I get quite a similar vibe to Secretions Magnifiques in fact, but it changes very quickly, and I'm impressed that I genuinely get the notes listed on the bottle (ok maybe not pus, but the rest yes). It's still not repulsing me, although it did take a few minutes to calm down, and sticking my nose into it isn't giving me joy, it's more academically interesting.
Love it, it's a minty, smooth, warm, anisic, unctuous brew, rather like a mix of oily oolong teas and mint stems. Thank you JR for not dosing it with the usual norlimbanol and/or woody amber screech! The dry down sees the mint subside and the raspberry come forward to sweeten the tea, it's wonderful and I can't stop sniffing myself.
I think the horrible aroma chemical putting us all off is norlimbanol... Chris Maurice/Carbonnel and Julian Rasquinet slug loads of it into all of their perfumes and for me it almost always ruins it. There's nothing more screechy. When someone in public transport is wearing this sort of perfume it obnoxiously gasses everyone out. I feel like a certain sort of personality wants their perfume to do that, so this is for them. Up top this perfume has a very heavy passionfruit vibe, very synthetic smelling.
It's definitely evocative of something to do with water, but it's not the sea, it's the changing rooms/toilets in a municipal swimming pool. I don't hate the perfume, but it's too close to the toilets for me to seriously consider wearing it.
Everyone seems to agree that this is light and performs badly, I find the opposite to be true, it's a beast-mode fragrance on me, but does have a delicate vibe. On card I immediately thought playdoh, and loved that, then on skin I get more complexity, with the coriander balancing the sweet vanilla beautifully. The bergamot gives it that sheen or shimmer I normally associate with Chanel Les Exclusifs. This is definitely one of my favourite Céline perfumes.
This is a really gorgeous fresh, spicy green floral. It seemed quite unassuming when I sprayed it on but it's continuing to develop and has this lovely contrast of soapy floral and spicy cardamom sparkle. I'm really impressed as I'd never even heard of this brand. There's no synthetic screech and it manages to be strong but not overbearing.
Mossy sandlewood with citrus at the top. Doesn't smell like palo santo. It's almost like Eau de Citron Noir but done less horrifically and with javanol instead of ambrofixatives. It's not a bad perfume but it leaves me cold, and almost goes a bit pickley on me.
Creamy, green, slightly woody, luxurious, complex peachy tuberose. Delicious and unique, love it!
