Black Lotus surprised me, for what an enchanting scent resides in this bland and unassuming bottle. To put it simply, this is a profoundly sweet rose-patchouli which is incredibly inviting. The rose is bright and dewy, not at all dense or jammy, its supple beauty is complemented by this overdose of sweet honeyed saffron. This sweet rosiness is furthered by pink pepper and hints of sticky fruits, whilst the patchouli remains rather subdued, simply whispering in the background. The rose shouts the loudest here. I’m enjoying this much more than I anticipated. It’s incredibly sweet and fairly strong too, an effective combination for positive attention. I’m enjoying my sample quite a bit, but I don’t think it qualifies as a love for me, I cannot pinpoint why exactly.

Cuir de Russie is a name which has become synonymous with the inimitable Chanel release in 1924, and so L.T. Piver had some big boots to fill by releasing a scent of the same name just 15 years later. Whilst I don’t think it competes with the Chanel, it’s undoubtedly a gorgeous and enigmatic take on leather at a much more affordable price. The leather here is rather rugged, not clean cut and dressed up with orris and jasmine like the Chanel, it’s deep and rich - rough around the edges. An array of dry woods, bay leaf and soft spices compliment the dominating citrus notes, which provide a pronounced rindy bitterness. This is a far more masculine take on the idea of a Russian leather, lacking the delicate impression of florals to make it pretty. I really like this actually; it doesn’t blow me away but considering the price I think it’s great. I’ll definitely pick up a bottle at some point, as I think it’s worth having in the collection as a good reference leather.

I don’t have much experience with Bel Ami, I’m familiar with the current formulation which I love but have only just gotten around to smelling a decant from a vintage bottle - and it’s absolutely enchanting. Truly one of the greatest leather scents of all time, the epitome of masculinity. The leather itself is very dry and somewhat vegetal, from the inclusion of Vetiver, patchouli and basil, and yet it also comes off notably warming and spicy due to that powerful carnation note. Of course, alongside all this, a gentle harmony of bitter citrus rinds, crisp woods and bitter oakmoss give it a wondrous dated elegance; something very clearly from another generation, yet smells timeless. I have always been a huge fan of Roja’s Fetish Pour Homme, which is obviously heavily inspired by this. Whilst I do think Fetish improved upon the scent profile, Bel Ami deserves all the credit for being the first to embody such a unique and iconic compositions. This is a must-have for all leather fans.

I have been dying to try Youth Dew for the longest time, and now I finally have a decant from a vintage bottle it’s like the gates of heaven have finally opened. I can see why this is considered one of the all-time greats, it’s unspeakably phenomenal. One of the greatest orientals I’ve ever encountered. This wonderfully inviting cocktail of clove, cinnamon, amber, vanilla and balsams create this thick, warming blanket of comfort - I can see why people describe it as smelling reminiscent of cola. Combined with a sharp citric opening of orange and bright aldehydes, alongside gentle florals and beaming oakmoss, the earthy powderiness is to die for. As soon as I smelled this is masterpiece, I was hooked - it was added straight onto the wishlist. This truly is a scent everyone should experience.

A Rebours is a scent I expected more from if I’m being honest, given the extensive and complex note breakdown. And whilst it’s not unpleasant by any means, it just comes off rather simple - leaving me wanting more. I should be clear in saying that this is not animalic, in any sense - I’m not sure why these notes are even listed when in fact it’s very easy-going. It’s a sort of fresh-metallic violet leaf paired with bitter-green florals and a soft soapiness, alongside a gentle whisper of leather and cumin. It’s not unpleasant as I said, it’s rather nice if anything. But it doesn’t stand out as anything special for me, I was expecting a lot more especially considering how unusual and unique the bottle is.

Intimate is a befitting name for such a sultry and suggestive perfume, a gloriously gentle musky floral, with pronounced elements of Chypre. An array of blooming white florals, namely jasmine, basking in sunny aldehydes greet you upon first spray. These shimmering florals are paired with a delicate creamy warmth through sandalwood and orris. Despite this, a punchy note of oakmoss bolsters through, which is intensely green and archaic - before developing a lustrous base of musk. This scent masters the enticingly dramatic dichotomy of delicate femininity, with primal sexual urges. I’m shocked it’s taken me this long to discover this beauty, but I’m hooked; I definitely need to find myself a bottle.

1740 is my first experience with the house of Histoires de Parfums; a wonderfully surprising woody leather scent with some unexpected oriental facets. Initially it opens rather bitter and harsh with a pronounced rindy bergamot and herbal artemisia, though it soon becomes much more inviting. The dry, vegetal nature of immortelle is paired with a beautifully thick, almost sappy leathery labdanum. This dry woodiness is furthered by an earthy patchouli, contrasted by the inimitable warmth of cardamom and creamy coriander, with just a touch of sweet vanilla. It’s magnificently complex. It has elements of classical chypres and orientals, combining characteristics of the golden age of French perfumery - but elevated to something slightly more contemporary and unique. This scent has really taken me by surprise, I think I adore it, and I’ll definitely need a bottle.

Innuendo was a blind buy for me, one which I found surprising and unexpected, yet satisfying and sublime. I do not think the name is fitting, I had the same experience with Fetish Femme, an outspokenly suggestive name mismatched with a rather polite and reserved scent profile. Despite the misleading name, it smells utterly divine. It opens with a pronounced hesperidic burst of lemon and verbena, bergamot and orange, which together are sharp and zingy. The heart evolves into a beautifully buttery central theme of ylang, alongside a traditionally bright and soapy melody of rose, jasmine and violet. Whispers of orris, sandalwood and tonka further this delicate creamy facet, providing a delicately soft sweetness to the scent. Whilst not listed, I find Roja’s signature peach accord holds a strong presence here - with its gentle whisper of sweet, creamy fuzziness. This scent is in no way dirty or sexual as the name might suggest, it is perfectly polite and restrained; like the most wonderfully simple floral which is so effortlessly elegant.

Elaborate is a controversial scent, one so polarising you will either love it or hate it. It is a musky leather which has been recreated by a select few other perfume houses, namely Fragrance du Bois with their release of PM which is very similar, better in fact. The leather is not as expected, it is nothing less than unconventional to say the least - slightly metallic, sharp and obnoxiously strong. It doesn’t smell like civet, but there is a sharp muskiness to it, turning the scent almost sour. As I said some will hate it, as for me I really enjoy it but I think PM does this scent profile better, with a little more going on. Some have said it smells like cocaine, I would not know. But it certainly does not smell of anything natural or delicate - this is boldly synthetic and almost otherworldly, in a nice way. I’m glad to have a 10ml but could never get through a full 100ml bottle.