Bel Ami, from Hermès was released in 1986. The perfumer behind this creation is Jean-Louis Sieuzac. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Cardamom, Lemon, Mandarin Orange, and Sage, middle notes of Basil, Carnation, Cedarwood, Jasmine, Orris Root, and Patchouli, and base notes of Amber, Coconut, Leather, Oakmoss, Styrax, Vanilla, and Vetiver.
I don’t have much experience with Bel Ami, I’m familiar with the current formulation which I love but have only just gotten around to smelling a decant from a vintage bottle - and it’s absolutely enchanting. Truly one of the greatest leather scents of all time, the epitome of masculinity. The leather itself is very dry and somewhat vegetal, from the inclusion of Vetiver, patchouli and basil, and yet it also comes off notably warming and spicy due to that powerful carnation note. Of course, alongside all this, a gentle harmony of bitter citrus rinds, crisp woods and bitter oakmoss give it a wondrous dated elegance; something very clearly from another generation, yet smells timeless. I have always been a huge fan of Roja’s Fetish Pour Homme, which is obviously heavily inspired by this. Whilst I do think Fetish improved upon the scent profile, Bel Ami deserves all the credit for being the first to embody such a unique and iconic compositions. This is a must-have for all leather fans.