Cuir de Russie, from L.T. Piver was released in 1939. The perfumer behind this creation is unknown. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Cardamom, Honey, Mandarin Orange, Pepper, and Styrax, middle notes of Bay Leaf, Cedarwood, Cinnamon, Leather, Neroli, and Patchouli, and base notes of Amber, Labdanum, Musk, Oakmoss, Olibanum (Frankincense), and Sandalwood.
Cuir de Russie is a name which has become synonymous with the inimitable Chanel release in 1924, and so L.T. Piver had some big boots to fill by releasing a scent of the same name just 15 years later. Whilst I don’t think it competes with the Chanel, it’s undoubtedly a gorgeous and enigmatic take on leather at a much more affordable price. The leather here is rather rugged, not clean cut and dressed up with orris and jasmine like the Chanel, it’s deep and rich - rough around the edges. An array of dry woods, bay leaf and soft spices compliment the dominating citrus notes, which provide a pronounced rindy bitterness. This is a far more masculine take on the idea of a Russian leather, lacking the delicate impression of florals to make it pretty. I really like this actually; it doesn’t blow me away but considering the price I think it’s great. I’ll definitely pick up a bottle at some point, as I think it’s worth having in the collection as a good reference leather.