Strong ambroxan, watery rest of notes. It's OK but it's not a masterpiece. Maybe it used to be. Also, I get more geranium than rose, with that specific mintiness that ofren comes with it, although geranium isn't listed. Lasts forever if you count the residue of ambrox-chemicals as perfume lasting.
Instant love. Whereas a lot of fragrances of this genre would have some harsh ambro-underbelly, this is smooth sailing right to the end. I'm surprised how I didn't find the harsh opening others have mentioned here. Santal 33 is way harsher to my nose.
Francesca Bianchi never fails to deliver a sensual and bold fragrance, and in this case, she takes inspiration from the very spirit of Italian. The first word that comes to mind when I smell this is "Sprezzatura," which means "a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it." If you are wearing this, you don't care if others like you or not, you like yourself, and this is a very brave statement to express in a perfume. The mix of fresh citrus and dry labdanum and oakmoss is intoxicating, and in my opinion this is exactly why it's perfect to wear in the summer season. I am usually the type of person who can't stand summer fresh scents, but I've to admit it's hard to pull off spices and heavy notes in this season, so this is just perfect to me. Others have said this fragrance is not very animalic to them, but for me, it is so from the very beginning, and I honestly don't mind how sexy those notes come off in this scent. I also think the leather note gets lost in the animalic part. It does last almost a whole day, but I find the projection to be kind of mild after 2 hours. I've also only used this scent in very hot weather, so that might be the reason for that too. When I wear this fragrance, I feel so powerful. It's a daring choice that exudes confidence and self-assurance. I wouldn't wear it every day, but on those special occasions or days when I want to make a statement, it's the perfect choice.
While I wasn’t a fan of Oud Fortius, Oud Altius is a different story - this is much more oud focused in my opinion, with amazing sweet fruits and florals. It initially opens with a fantastic juicy raspberry note backed up by warm spices, mainly cinnamon and cardamom. From here the raspberry stays prominent as soft florals of rose, iris and saffron join the party with a gorgeously soft frankincense. A gorgeous oud and leather then emerges in the base which is both smooth yet rugged. Oud, rose, saffron and raspberry isn’t a new combination and yet it never gets tiring. This fragrance achieves the same thing as Ombre Nomade without inducing headaches for everyone around you. It’s far more subdued and sophisticated with great quality.
Oud Fortius is a warm spicy oud fragrance that goes in a different direction compared to your typical oud. In the opening you’re blasted straight away with a powerful note of spicy caraway, paired with lavender and bergamot. An earthy patchouli and soft geranium is joined by a woody base comprising of oud, sandalwood and cedar which creates an aura of rugged masculinity. The caraway comes across more like cumin to me, it’s very spicy and smells very reminiscent of real cumin. Personally, I’m not a big fan of this scent simply due to the overpowering note of caraway. I imagine if realistic spices are your thing then this is a great option and has fantastic quality, however it’s not for me.
Frangipani is a very fresh and summery scent with an addicting citrus-tropical kick. It opens with a delicious note of sharp lime and lime blossom, with magnolia in the background. Soon after this the frangipani takes centre stage with its fruity and tropical nuances - this is not a note you often see used, however it’s absolutely lovely. The heart is comprised of an array of fresh watery florals and a juicy plum to back up the frangipani, before developing a sweet nuttiness in the base from the vanilla. I almost get an almond accord coming through even though it’s not listed. This is a very pleasant fragrance to wear in the summer however I wouldn’t say it’s wowed me. The frangipani is a very interesting and enjoyable note however the overall scent comes across a bit too simple. I would’ve liked this to have a bit more depth to the base and take you on more of a journey.
Farmyard / barnyard joy. Love it
It's Le Lion de Chanel shot with a tranquilizer gun and blinded with talc. Very, very strong...don't overspray. It's a bit powdery for me, but it is a very good amber. Super high quality and affordable.
Fan Your Flames is possibly the most interesting and highest quality coconut fragrance I’ve ever smelled. Upon first spray you’re blasted with this ultra-realistic coconut note which is both nutty and delicious, paired with a deep, boozy rum accord. From here the scent develops a dark and smoky tobacco note, reminiscent of old-style pipe tobacco rather than modern tobacco. There’s also a hint of sweetness from the tonka bean in the background. While a relatively simple scent, this fragrance has so much depth and character. It can be a bit challenging and definitely won’t be for everyone but I think it’s fantastic, the quality is incredible as always is from Nishane. This is such a unique fragrance, and if you love coconut is definitely one to try.
City of Stars is an ode to the excitement and extravagance of Los Angeles as the sun begins to set. It opens with an intoxicating medley of high quality citrus, most prominently lime and blood orange. A unique note of Tiare is then used which adds that classic white floral touch, with a fruity nuance to it. From here, the citrus stays constant as it begins to settle on a powdery base of musk and sandalwood. The sharpness of the citrus perfectly juxtaposes the creaminess of the sandalwood and expresses brilliantly the shift towards dusk. I find this fragrance leans slightly feminine but is still wearable by both sexes. It’s a very pleasant and high quality citrus, perfect for the summer however the performance is lacking and it’s severely overpriced for what it is.
Virde is a very gentle woody aromatic scent with some good depth and character. Initially it opens with a soft breeze of juniper and lavender with a touch of black pepper to give it that masculine kick, before developing a gorgeously green heart of vetiver, cypress, patchouli and pine. A soft and creamy base of oakmoss and sandalwood soon becomes present, with a lingering hint of musk and cedar as the backbone. This scent smells like walking through beautiful English woodland on a crisp summer’s morning. It’s got some great aromatics which are perfectly balanced with the creamy base to create something very pleasant to wear.
Theorem is my favourite release by Soma from the ones I’ve tried so far, it smells absolutely fantastic. It opens straight away with this beautifully soft and powdery combination of iris and rose, with a touch of warm spices in the background - namely cardamom and cinnamon. The iris in here somewhat reminds me of Valentino Uomo Intense, but higher quality. In the dry down you’re greeted with a gorgeously smooth amber, cacao and patchouli base which adds a mysterious darkness to the scent. This is a beautiful fragrance and bears a noticeable similarity to Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli which I absolutely love, a lot of the notes in here are the same. This is a massively underrated scent, I’d definitely recommend checking this one out.
I can barely smell anything despite testing I varios different ways on skin and on card stock. What I can smell is a faint whiff of chemicals and some plastic.
It doesn't smell like the list provided by ELDO, but it does smell awful. A cynical marketing gimmick, more fool all of us who felt compelled by it.
Smells exactly like Cool Water Parfum 2021
Cirrus is a beautifully fresh and clean scent with a good amount of character to back it up. To me it opens most prominently with a gorgeously juicy blackcurrant and bergamot, paired with a soft lavender. A punchy pink pepper and aromatic sage then add a bit more depth from here. There’s a slight warmth from the cardamom, but once this scent settles on the skin you’re greeted by a soft musky orris, deepened and made slightly earthy by patchouli. All this before settling on a soft base of subtle amber and vetiver. This scent is very pleasant but isn’t the best performing on me unfortunately, it’s nice to wear and I imagine would garner great reactions from those around you - but for me I don’t think it’s worth owning a full bottle.
Halcyon is probably Soma’s most famed release and for good reason, it’s absolutely stunning and delicious. It opens with an intensely sweet toffee, vanilla and honey combination with an addictive spicy cinnamon in the background. From here the sweetness is perfectly balanced with a strong boozy rum note and smoky tobacco, with hints of a fizzy benzoin and soft orchid. While not listed, I get a gentle hint of a sweet cherry note - probably from the orchid. This is a truly edible fragrance, an incredible gourmand for a great price. It’s very much along the lines of Angels Share and Feve Deliceuse but much better value for money - fantastic fragrance.
Axiom opens with a sharp and tangy orange/ginger combination which to be completely honest is a little underwhelming. A clean musky jasmine is joined by vetiver, cedar and olibanum. Soma has released some brilliant scents however I feel this one doesn’t quite live up to the rest. The notes seem a bit muddled, nothing particularly stands out and it reminds me of a clean, musky gingery designer release that most brands seem to be jumping on. Axiom is pleasant enough and there’s nothing inherently bad about it, but to me it lacks a bit of character and depth. Overall a pleasant scent but not for me unfortunately.
Venom Incarnat is a very interesting and unique perfume, but to me goes in the wrong direction. It opens instantly with an intensely sweet strawberry and raspberry combination, with a juicy blackberry and thick caramel supporting this. There’s a gentle spiciness from the cinnamon, while the base is comprised of a smooth and thick leather and vanilla combo. It’s not particularly unpleasant and I can see they were really trying to push the boat out by utilising such a unique set of notes; however, a natural strawberry does not exist, and so by making it the main note of the fragrance you’re left with an extremely synthetic and low quality fruitiness that’s more reminiscent of strawberry flavoured medicine than a natural strawberry. Unfortunately to me this fragrance smells very plasticky and does not live up to the high quality ingredients that I know this house uses in its other releases. I would not recommend this perfume unless you really want to smell like fake strawberries.
Chemical choke-bomb. Absolutely terrible. Maybe they're trying to do a Sauvage, that would make sense.
I get good performance from this misnamed, creamy sandlewood scent. Indeed, for me it's a delicate but strong, slightly gourmand sandlewood, like a less obnoxious Santal 33 but with a tiny touch of cardamom. I get no oud, but I wasn't expecting any, as is the case with almost all perfumes which have "oud" in the name. It's a polite woody perfume, not unique, not worth the price, but pretty and very unisex all the same, so it does have merit. Many have mentioned Hayat here, and while it's nothing like Hayat (which is way more potent and much less sandlewoody), they do share, erm, perhaps I can say a "tone". I like Hayat, but it's much less wearable, and way more screechy and abrasive and has a strong lavender note. All in all, I don't get the love for this perfume, although it's by no means bad, but I have many other more interesting sandlewood scents I prefer to wear.
It baffles me that people complain about performance. I find this absolutely relentless, and as with many of the private blends, the charm wears off way before the perfume does. It smells remarkably similar to Orto Parisi's Stercus, a scent based on the smell of bumhole.
If ever there was a Nᵒ 5 for men, I imagine it would smell something along the lines of this. I recently got a vintage bottle, all I know is it’s pre-1976, and I fell in love immediately. This is a darker, dirtier take on this classic fragrance with an alluring and sexual character. The Eau de Cologne is still all about the classic powdery aldehydes and floral medley of ylang, orris and rose - however this is noticeably more animalic. A much heavier dose of civet and musk give this scent a more masculine and animalic edge. It’s got some filth and some skank but in an incredibly addictive way. I also feel the patchouli and amber base is more prominent in here, creating an incredible alternative to Nᵒ 5 which is more suited to the colder weather. I really have no idea why this was called an Eau de Cologne when not only is this scent animalic and very strong, but the perfume concentration is 25%. Nevertheless, I love this stuff and I would recommend anyone to seek it out.
Nᵒ 5 has got to be the most iconic and influential perfume of all time, the name is known by everyone and for a good reason. I recently got an unopened bottle of the extrait from the 60s, and it made me realise what this scent was intended to smell like - it has subsequently earned a place in my top 5 for life. This is a powdery floral bomb with an overdose of the most addictive aldehydes I’ve ever smelled. Ylang, orris and rose make up the bulk of the florals, while gentle citrus add a subtle sharpness. These beautiful flowers settle on a soft bed of civet, musk and oakmoss. This fragrance is simply a masterpiece and the vintage extrait takes you back in time to a world of powerful perfumes with an abundance of character. As a man I love to wear this - it can give you so much confidence yet at the same time is so comforting and works beautifully as a bedtime scent. One of the all time greats!
I have a 1950s/60s Houndstooth bottle and I have to say this is one of the best chypre fragrances I’ve ever come across. It opens bright and effervescent with a heavy dose of aldehydes and a touch of bergamot, with powerful galbanum and sage to add green undertones. Soon after this, a heady marriage of countless powdery florals takes charge - namely narcissus, orris and carnation. Once this dries down you’re left with an explosion of natural oakmoss, some of the best I’ve ever smelled. Alongside this, the base is comprised of a leathery labdanum and earthy patchouli, all while the powdery florals, galbanum and aldehydes persist. This is a must have fragrance for any chypre lover, a world away from the overly sweet and synthetic mess that Miss Dior is today. The quality and pure talent that’s present in this classic scent is breathtaking; one of the best iterations of oakmoss I’ve ever come across.
