This is a good find for me, well I say find, a friend of mine very kindly bought it for me and sent it along. An example of a fragrance which follows all the trends of that golden era of men's perfumery without excelling at any of them really. Opens with lavender but then all the woody, masculine man powder hits, a soapy interpretation of leather, I found it loosely (without comparing) more akin to Quorum and Paco Rabanne than anything else, less piney perhaps less...well of everything Marbert man is quite a gentle, subdued version of these with a air of modern barber, hairdresser shop about it. I like it and for the money it's an excellent choice.
Back to Black - an intensely sweet and alluring gourmand. It opens with powerful notes of honey, cherry, vanilla and raspberry; it’s sweet and fruity with some dry touches in the background. The heart consists of a thickening of the cherry and honey combination with the addition of a slightly powdery almond and tonka bean which adds to the deliciousness of this scent. It then dries down to a sweet, syrupy honey with a dry, smokey tobacco to give it some power. The cherry begins to dissipate while the vanilla becomes stronger all while warm spices begin to creep in from the sides. The performance is great - it lasts all day and projects well, gathering great reactions from others. Back to Black is one of the greatest gourmands on the market, it’s sweet and delicious with lots going on however it never gets overbearing. This fragrance reminds me so much of Christmas and it’s perfect for nights out in the winter.
Hera starts off very soft and rounded with bright sparkly florals of the highest quality. Narcissus, jasmine, orris and heliotrope combine to form the most beautiful composition. Not longer after the initial spray, ambrette and musk begin to shine which gives the fragrance a slight bitter earthiness. This then dries down to the most stunning blend of powdery florals and buttery orris, it’s intensely feminine and yet somehow feels unisex if you’re a fan of this style of fragrance. The staying power of this scent is fantastic and the quality is incredible. Hera is a modern masterpiece - it leans heavily to a direction similar to Chanel No 5 and Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles, however this scent is much more floral and less animalic. One of the best iterations of this classic scent profile, but unfortunately very expensive.
Hera was originally supposed to be a bespoke creation for Liz Moore’s daughter to wear on her wedding day, but was later generously shared with the world. To me, this scent is the holy grail of orris root - it’s simply one of the best interpretations of this beautiful material I’ve ever smelled. Upon initial spray, the soapy indolic nature of pure white narcissus and jasmine sparkle in the air before leading you down a path of thick, powdery florals warming the air around you. As it begins to settle, the dense and buttery nature of the orris takes over and becomes gorgeously serene. Ambrette provides an ever so gentle bite of musky bitterness, overall leaving you with a scent that feels so pure and innocent, yet with all the glory and allure of vintage florals of bygone days. Hera is a modern masterpiece, there’s no doubt about it in my mind. There’s a good reason this is priced higher than the rest of the Papillon line, the quality is phenomenal. If you’re a lover of orris, or classical floral perfumes this is a must try.
This is a gorgeous perfume, I doubt it will wow the sort of rose fans looking for something really full bodied but nevertheless it's very accomplished and an inherently wearable piece from a great brand. So I hadn't looked at the notes at the point of thinking about writing this review (obviously have now) and I felt the creaminess of the base is sandalwood materials and musks right out of the gate, and despite them not being a top note, that is what I smell immediately, it actually becomes a bit less creamy after that. (but it does come back later on) Then you get a kind of soapy (in a good way) rose accord and I'm no expert at discerning different rose materials or recreations or whatever and frankly I didn't really know what the subtleties of May rose were TBH. However, I've recently tried a few, just in the last few weeks and this kinda screamed may rose to me...and what do you know? it's a rose de Mai apparently. This is a more functional, less opulent smelling rose to me than the usual suspects of Turkish or Bulgarian or whatever, but no less lovely. Just reading the review directly below and I can imagine that this could be the kind of rose perfume for non-rose fan because it's just so damned easy to get along with, and at the other end of the spectrum perfume fans who can appreciate nuance will like how this isn't atypical and is a smoothly well made blend of creamy and fresh, lasts ages and just smells really really good. I'm a big fan of this from the off and it's growing on me even more, and promoting a real sense of wellbeing today.
B683 starts off with a warming combination of saffron, nutmeg and black pepper before developing a metallic, mineral violet leaf note which begins to take the lead. The musk, labdanum and sandalwood give this fragrance a robust and creamy backbone which blends perfectly with the other notes. Once B683 has had some time to settle, you’re left with the most beautiful combination of sweet saffron, metallic violet leaf and spicy nutmeg - creating one of the smoothest compositions I’ve ever come across. The dry down has similarities to Ganymede due to the mineral-style violet leaf and leathery base notes, however this is sweeter and spicier and much better suited to evening wear. This fragrance is an absolute masterpiece and a must-have for colder weather. It’s perfectly executed and the materials are of a fantastically high quality. It’s very easy to like while still being very unique and different, all with fantastic performance as Marc Antoine Barrois always delivers.
This smells soooooo much like Mancera Tonka Cola with a hint of Dior Feve Deliceuse
I'm going to try to keep this brief but I feel I have a lot to say about nuit de Bakelite. I recall first sampling it a few years ago when these launched (I think there was only three then) and being impressed by the creativity of this line, they are for real 'eds it seems. This is the crown jewel according to most as well, has that smoky, green, Cellier-esque, vintage nod, but with peculiar modernity and the 1940's plastic reference in the name. Well the name is oddly appropriate because it does have this strange plastic quality, a guff of sharp but sweet musks in the opening and bizarre, green tuberose sweetened with carrot seed and angelica musk. Then comes a flip to a mossy, leathery scent and call me mad but an association with Creed's Green Irish tweed for a moment. It's strangely enigmatic and aloof with those gassy musks but resinous and deep, and flipping back to floral and green all the time. I suspect this is a polarising fragrance but clearly very popular and I get why, I think it's an excellent concept, and execution. Hugely powerful this one as well, had some horrendous comments from folks nearby me, which is always a treat when you like a perfume which pisses others off, oh and my car smelled of it for a about three days. I think it's a modern masterpiece and I want it in my collection from a perfume history perspective but I'm reluctant as I'm not sure how often I'd wear it?
Okay so I wasn't necessarily going to write this review because it's pretty moany, but why change the habit of a lifetime hey? and when I read the review below me here about not having those around you complain, I felt compelled to fire up my fingers and give my thoughts on Angel. I remember Angel in the 90's, girlfriends, teachers, the high street generally and even my mum, smelled of Mugler Angel. I completely appreciate it's pioneering ethyl maltol overdose style and it's OTT Muglerness, iconic bottle design, and the genesis of Gourmand genre perfumery, none of it is lost on me and broadly speaking I thought I liked it. Having not gone back and revisited Angel in many years I felt I didn't need to as the smell had been etched into my permanent olfactory hard disk memory. Well no! Because for mother's day my sister purchased a bottle for my mum (like 'hey remember you used to like this?') and she wore it yesterday and I found it unbearable. I've heard folks mention the patchouli element before and say it's horrid but I never really felt that way, yes it's a full bodied patch base (a common theme in loads of Mugler stuff) but never have I found it to annoy. Cloy? yes maybe but that's far more the cotton candy and oh so unreal floral aspects, the patchouli I figured to be the least offensive part. but no. Yesterday it was like a knitting needle being rammed up my snozz, repeatedly, and not even a dank, natural patch, like a screeching, evil patchouli robot cyborg hybrid sent back from the future to F my Nose in the A! It's truly terrible at a distance, I shall have to spray the perfume again and experience it on skin because I think it's entirely different for the wearer, as apposed to the poor sods who have to cower and heave in their wake.
Okay so to say this smells like Tobacco Vanille is easy and a bit lazy of me as a reviewer but crudely it does. I think progression wise it's quite different for the opening part at least, a mixture of spicy almost licorice, anise and tea vibes momentarily, until it settles upon a common groove of the TV, dried fruit and honied, 'tobacco accord' stuff. This is rounder though, good right? No, it feels more vanillic and cheaper, somewhat more honey for extra cloy factor. Look I don't hate it, but this is a played out theme and I simply don't find it as good as TV (I don't even wear my TV anymore) even though it's a hell of a lot cheaper for effectively as near as damned it, the same thing. I think it is discontinued, although probably still widely available, I only say that because I tried it in that shop which sells off discontinued lines from Estee Lauder companies, but to be fair they also have stuff which isn't, so who knows?
This is gorgeous. Really, that bergamot opening and the metallic freshness of the tea on a musky, woody iris base is just lovely. I mean is it setting the world alight with creativity? perhaps not but it's taking complimentary elements and presenting them in such a chic and wearable manner. Tender light really is a fantastic name for this perfume, the bergamot and tea reminds me of Bvlgari for a second, and then the warmer, more sensual base is a perfect way to round out and lend more substance to what is effectively quite a fresh and airy perfume.
okay so usually if I was describing a raspberry leather perfume you'd not be a fool for instantly jumping to the conclusion that Sensuous stars is just some pale Tuscan leather rip off, by Estee Lauder but actually like many in this line it keeps to the traditions on EL and actually does something creative and classy with it. So to me this perfume is about a soft, supple radiant, iris/orris based leather accord, with masses of fruity raspberry on the top. Yes I know it says plum here and actually sniffing a card i sprayed it on a few days ago I can see somewhat more of that, however when first sprayed and applied to skin I get that very tart and characteristic raspberry thing. Now orris and raspberry have a strange affinity because some orris materials and molecules which can be used to recreate orris ( can't think of the specific one off the top of my head) have this raspberry juice effect to them. So perhaps it's that which is conjuring it for me? I dunno. So despite this perfume not really being for me, the orris is very soft leather and cosmetic (not that I'm apposed to that I wear Lipstick rose quite happily) something about this with the raspberry is just a little too light and playfully femme for my tastes, well it's not even about taste as such, it's more... do I want to add it to my wardrobe? and I'd say....no. However, I think it's a fine perfume, This theme may exist in this format elsewhere but I'm not really aware of it and I was quite taken with just how lovely it is.
Musc Ravageur opens with sharp and bitter notes of lavender, tangerine and bergamot before quickly developing a spicy heart of cinnamon and clove. The combination of these spices with the tangerine makes for a classically French scent which is very reminiscent of Christmas. This then dries down to a very classic composition which doesn’t seem dated or overdone - it’s innovative and executed perfectly. Musk, vanilla and cinnamon are blended beautifully into a spicy, bitter composition with clove and tangerine adding a rindy sharpness. The performance is very appealing as the note breakdown would imply something overbearing, and yet it’s surprisingly gentle and consistent. This fragrance is a great option for the cold and festive period around Christmas, due to the sweet and warm spiciness. It’s not as musky as it would have you believe, however it is a very mature and classic scent - personally I feel it leans very masculine and it definitely won’t be to everyone’s taste. However, this is a modern masterpiece and a true artful expression of French perfumery.
Being a Parfum Cologne, this iteration of Enigma opens very bright and fresh with bergamot and jasmine among other florals. However this quickly settles and darker notes begin to creep forward, namely a dry tobacco, cognac and vanilla blended perfectly with benzoin of the highest quality to give the fragrance it’s signature ‘fizz’ Once this hits the dry down it is something truly magical - with the cognac, tobacco, vanilla and benzoin taking the lead creating the most beautiful warm spicy scent trail; these notes then float on a soft bed of sandalwood, ginger and ambergris. In terms of quality of ingredients and scent profile this shares a lot of similarities with the Parfum, however I find the Parfum Cologne to be brighter, more youthful and versatile - and obviously a lot more affordable. The performance is pretty good considering it’s bright and sparkly profile, and projects pretty well too. The quality here is incredible and the scent itself is a masterpiece - incredibly unique and a true modern classic.
Something smells a bit skanky here. Not in a good way. Try as I might, I can't find anything to top the Guerlain, and not only is this a long way off, the price is crazy considering the proliferation of good vetivers out there. You can get caught up in the hype about the special extract of vetiver blahdy blah blah, but essentially it's bog-standard, and even a bit horrible to my nose.
Opens like Issey, dries down like Dior Homme Sport 2020.
Angels’ Share opens with a burst of this fantastic realistic cognac note - it’s sweet, boozy and has a hint of that alcoholic burn in the background. As this settles you’re greeted with a dry, spicy cinnamon as well as a gorgeous vanilla and praline accord which gives the fragrance its gourmand qualities. After some time the fragrance develops a deeper scent profile as the sandalwood introduces a creamy woodiness and the oak adds a dry nuttiness . The cognac remains the main note throughout the life of the scent, while the sweetness of the tonka, vanilla and praline join the cinnamon in a perfect marriage of what might be one of the cosiest fragrances out there. Angels’ Share is fantastic - it smells incredibly festive and is the perfect choice for a Christmas party or other similar occasion. The performance is great and the reactions this gets from those around you is unparalleled. This is truly one of the best gourmand boozy fragrances out there.
Magnificent Gold opens with a bright sweetness coming from the saffron and vanilla, with pink pepper giving it a sharp kick. It quickly develops a heart of creamy sandalwood and a deliciously thick, gourmand vanilla note. In the dry down you’re gently greeted with an overload of sweet vanilla and sandalwood, with a musky undertone of white oud giving the fragrance this overall bitterness and maturity. As others have said it has a very ‘fluffy’ scent profile which is very soft around the edges, and in terms of performance this projects massively and lasts all day with ease. Magnificent Gold is massively underrated - a must have for any vanilla fanatic. I can imagine it can come off as too sickly sweet to some, and yet weirdly it’s one of my most complimented fragrances. It’s a shame to see it being discontinued as it truly is a hidden gem, perfect for a warm and cosy winters day.
For all of the notes listed, Chopard's Oud Malaki is identical and waaaaay cheaper. This is not to say that Halfeti isn't a good fragrance, but why bother when you can get the same excellent scent, performance and quality for a fraction of the cost? 🤷
One of my favourites from Penhaligons. Bright citrus and pepper opening which dries down to a beautiful cedar/incense. It feels refined and confident, there’s nothing try hard about Opus. Projection is minimal however longevity is great on me and the skin scent lasts all day, I find this of a lot of Penhaligons. Perfect work scent.
I reckon this was the inspiration for Black Orchid Parfum. The long dry down is pretty similar. I love them both, this is definitely up there as one of the most unique and arresting perfumes I've experienced.
This floral amber opens with a blast of indolic, animalic, fiery jasmine set ablaze by pink pepper. Carine is zhuzhed up with rose and gardenia, while the patchouli hints at a raw and wild soul. All the while, cashmeran and vetiver exude elegance and refinement. For me it’s a beautiful balancing act that perfectly conveys someone equally artistic and stylish. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
Along with a clean natural oud, the power is coming from cumin, hay, immortelle and unsweetened honey. It’s absolutely packed full of high quality LMR naturals and it feels like it. It’s full strength, and I can understand why some reviewers have struggled with it, but I adore it. It feels classy yet wild. The hay and immortelle mean it would work equally as well in hot weather as it does on cooler days. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
I think the ridiculous price is why so many people moan about this perfume. Putting the cost aside, it's amazing... beautiful, and unique. It's a powerful projector but without being screechy or cloying. It's like bathing in high quality black cherry yoghurt, indeed I think Black Cherry would be a more apt name. Yes it's very expensive, and the cherry is indeed lost quite quickly.
Spicebomb Extreme opens with a sweet sharpness coming from the vanilla, black pepper, cumin, caraway and lavender. This thick and spicy scent cloud is then deepened as the cinnamon and tobacco become more prominent in the heart. After some time this fragrance develops into a warming bubble of spicy goodness with cinnamon taking the lead. It’s sweet, sharp and sexy and is very mass appealing to those around you. The performance is good but not as nuclear as a lot of people would have you believe. Spicebomb Extreme smells like Christmas to me - everything about the notes in here are so festive and warming. It’s a fantastic choice for the colder months as it’s so cosy and powerful enough to cut through the cold air. My only criticism would be that the spices in this fragrance smell noticeably synthetic and lower in quality.
