One White Crow smells like the light of the moon and the long shadows it casts along a meandering path of tangled fern and creeping moss in a lost landscape, a place that no longer exists or that no longer exists as it did in your memory from some time before now. A place where violets bloom in reverse in the dusky glooms just before dawn, the silent yawning hour when dreams are most vivid and reality most fragile. It’s that ancient spill of grief, an aubade lamenting the eerie honeysuckle light of a world that’s tilted just a fraction off its axis, whose sun no longer shines in a way you recognize. And while, of course, the world has changed and the sunlight does gleam from a different angle, the scent is mostly the realization that it’s you, your own heart, that has become different, estranged. Estrange, to make oneself a stranger. This is the scent of all the yous you’ve lost. That you’ll never meet again. In the sunlight or the moonlight or any landscape at all.
April Aromatics Calling All Angels is plump unearthly fruits, gorged on ancient amber nectar, hanging heavy at twilight, eventually drying and cracking in the heat of a dying sun. Silent sisters, veiled in mystery, stretch these honey-drunk orbs across a vast expanse of time littered with bone, their flesh becoming supple leather under reverent, unceasing hands. Wisps of aromatic smoke rise from flint-scattered pyres, and the air crackles with the essence of aeons compressed into chips of burnished crystal, shards of petrified sunlight, and the tawny tears of grieving trees. The sisters' nimble fingers arrange fragments of balsamic fruit-flesh and sticky sap-jewels, the assemblage of an olfactory mosaic, redolent of a hallowed sweetness entirely beyond mortality’s grasp. In this fragrance of plummy depths wreathed with leathery whispers, of resinous rituals and sacred smoke, the boundaries between plant, mineral, and devotion blur into a hazy, intoxicating mirage, an ambrosial testament to the everlasting, endless, and eternal.
Stora Skuggan Azalai conjured forth such a very specific image for me. Does anyone else remember Peaches & Cream Barbie from the 1980s? I don't know if she had a specific scent, but Azalai is the fantasy aroma of that resplendent, frothy, pale coral gown she wore. Saffron-infused honey, champagne-candied apricots, and a golden halo of spun sugar amber clouds filtered to a honeyed, hazy glow through countless layers of delicate fabric, gossamer veils of tulle, and organza. Sheer and luminous, light and dreamy, this is everything little-me dreamed was so special about that doll. Even if I did eventually chop her hair off and marry her off to a small, plastic Lando Calrissian, only for her to disappear under mysterious circumstances on a skiing trip in the French Alps during their honeymoon.
Lilac and Gooseberries is an uncomplicated tumble of tart, tangy berries against a delicate floral backdrop. It’s not as sharp or bitter as I would have expected... nor as interesting. It smells more like the idea of a person than a person. Like someone is describing his amazing sorceress girlfriend, and she's so perfect and wonderful and never farts or eats onion sandwiches or draws blood or makes mistakes, and he leaves out all the nuance and complexity of what makes his beloved so intriguing. It's like someone fed all their perfect girlfriend material into an AI machine, and it produced a robot to their specifications, but she has no personality and hasn't yet become self-aware. And yet…there are some days when I really need that blank slate to build myself up to be pretty and put together and ~definitely very normal~ because this is what the world expects of me.
Mikado Bark is a cozy, comforting scent without any of the typical hallmarks perfumes of coziness and comfort rely on. It's not rich or foody, and I would not say it's overly nostalgic in any particular way. It's a fragrance whose spicy, woody notes are all not exactly ghosts of themselves, but they've all been shushed and hushed, and all together, their muted echoes harmonize with exquisite subtlety. It's a perfume that hovers like a hazy veil, both grounding and uplifting in its gentle presence. It carries the softness of lamplight pooling in shadows at dusk, yet also evokes the fleeting warmth of sunlight piercing gloomy afternoon clouds. The scent invites introspection, smoothing sharp edges and muting bold tones into a delicate accord. It's as if familiar aromatic notes have been reimagined - their essence captured, then softened and warmed. The fragrance conjures the image of a lone verdant remnant amid a sea of faded crimson and rust as October yields to November's chill. Lingering in the air, it embodies the autumnal, contemplative spirit of hobbits, reimagined as a gremlincore playlist steeped in hauntological reverb.
Launched in 2017 and classified as an Oriental Vanilla.
The nose is Sultan Pasha.
Top: meyer lemon, blood orange, bergamot, lavender, birch, spices
Heart: white Alba truffles, damascena rose, jasmine grandiflorum, orris pallida butter
Base: white ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, civet, musk, opoponax, guaicwood, honey, patchouli, Siamese benzoin, tonka, Tahitian vanilla, Madagascan vanilla.
Opens ups very light and brightly sweet with a hint of florals, you get the lemon and blood orange mostly in the few moments of application. After that this scent develops this lovely gourmand. It's a gourmand, but not overly vanilla based. Its sweet, but not overly sugary, it's smooth and slightly creamy. Has a subtle woody quality, but the woody quality has an edible quality. There's also a lovely buttery quality to the composition.
Quite a difficult review to conduct, as I've never smelt anything like this before, so difficult to dissect the notes.
As with most sultan Pasha attars, the performance is very good! I got at least 8 hours of longevity with healthy projection.
Overall rating of 4/5.
Released in 2016
Classified as a Floral
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha.
"Thebes is dedicated to a very old, discontinued composition I smelt in Paris at a certain famous establishment. It was so evocative that it was the only time a perfume brought me close to tears. As a result, I toiled for many months and many late nights to recreate it as I wanted it to be my signature perfume. And here it is... Thebes. Inspired by Djedi Guerlain." - Sultan Pasha
Top: bergamot, muguet (Lily of the Valley), aldehydes and Persian rose otto. Middle: orris butter, Bulgarian rose absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute and musk. Base: vetiver, amber, ambergris, musk and animalics.
Opens with a warm spicy glow with some waxy and buttery creaminess in the background, gives me a slightly marzipan vibe. As the scent develops, the waxy quality increases and a sweetness also develops, with the warm glow ever present along side it, with a touch of a gentle powderiness. The opening is mostly about the orris butter or iris, and the marzipan and the warm spicy waxy quality really reminds me of Irisior also by sultan pasha. As the scent dries down it becomes much deeper and darker, it's joined by an animalic leather accord, though the is powdery floral iris and the warm spicy touch is still at the forefront. The scent gives off a very ancient feeling, like walking into an Egyptian tomb that's just been opened.
Projection is strong for the first couple of hours after which is sits a little more closer to the skin. Longevity is around 5 hours.
Overall rating of 6/10.
Classified as a Oriental Woody
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha, an independent attar perfumer based in London. He doesn’t have professional training, but he does have some background in chemistry. His attars are known for incredibly high quality natural ingredients sourced from top suppliers, with only a tiny amount of synthetics (minimum amount) to finish off some scents.
A little background regarding this scent: This scent is based off one of Sultan Pasha's favorite memories where a family friend would visit his villa, and this family friend used to ride on his huge horse and he always had a pipe in his mouth that gave off the scent of the finest sweet tobacco he had ever smelt in his life.
Top: Hawthorn, Saffron, Cognac, Coffee and Tobacco Heart: Osmanthus, Damask Rose, Heliotrope, Tonka Bean, Cacao and Jasmine Base: Hay, Amber, Ambergris, Tonka Bean, Musk, Civet, Immortelle, Castoreum, Hyrax, Oud, Vanilla, Virginian Cedar, Himalayan Cedar and Juniper
Super tangy and sour like tamarind opening, its dark, punchy and fruity. Dries down to a sweet tobacco, with a very gentle smoke, and the tangy fruity tamarind from the opening, and just a touch of dark cocao. Its like smelling the tobacco from a pipe, rather than the tobacco leaf it self. Its a warm comforting spicy tobacco, with sweet tangy fruitiness. Opens up dark and intense, but settles into a gorgeous rich and sweet warm spicy scent.
Projection is beast mode for the first couple of hours, with it then settling in the moderate range, very intense and strong up close but gentle from an arms length. Longevity is excellent over 10+.
This is a perfect scent for fall and winter, as an evening wear scent, casually, formally and as a night out scent.
Overall score of 5/5, one of the best tobacco scents out there, superb!
Top: iris absolute, violet absolute, heliotrope, lilac, mimosa, peach.
Middle: orris pallida butter, carnation absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, Persian rose otto, violet leaf absolute.
Base: white ambergris, mimosa absolute, tonka absolute, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, Haitian vetiver, orris pallida butter.
A super smooth and creamy opening, very deep and rich, has waxy quality, with hints gourmands notes (tonka), with some gentle sweetness and a backbone of woodiness. It has a marzipan quality, reminds me of a shaving soap called Cella i used to use when i didn't have a beard and was a hobbyist of wet shaving. Had the scent dries down it starts having a gorgeous powdery quality. Smells very luxurious and of high quality. Also has a strong warm spicy note in the drydown.
Performance is strong for an attar, you have a decent scent cloud, with the scent being very strong close up. Longevity is brilliant, 10+ hours.
Overall rating is 5/5, gorgeous scent, wonderful performance, such high quality, a joy to experience!
Released in 2015
Classified as Oriental Floral
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha
Top: rose and madagascar vanilla Heart: haitian vetiver, honey, tuberose and bulgarian rose Base: sandalwood, ambergris, amber and indian oud
A very sweet delicate rose opening, which is smooth and creamy. The scent is quite linear, doesn't change drastically nor does it evovle, its pretty one-dimensional. A beautiful sweet, creamy and smooth rose, with sandalwood and vanilla.
Projection is soft to moderate, doesn't scream massively off your skin. Longevity on my skin is around 6 hours.
This would be an ideal date fragrance that can be worn year round.
Overall rating of 3.5/5.
Top: saffron oil, jasmine auriculatum absolute, Persian rose otto.
Heart: Bulgarian damascena absolute, honey absolute, orange blossom, henna, tobacco.
Base: EnsarOud's Encens D'Angkhor, beeswax, hand-macerated ambergris, hand-made Shamama (aged sandalwood, 30-year-old patchouli, henna, labdanum, Siamese benzoin, musk) raw Persian and Spanish Saffron strands maceration, Siamese benzoin resinoid, labdanum, tobacco absolute, Mysore sandalwood.
The opening has this slight faint metallic vibe, with a dull warm spiciness. For me it reminds me of my mums gold jewellery she keeps in a plastic container (old ice cream box, you know those 3 flavour combo's with vanilla, chocolate and strawberry), she keeps this plastic container in the kitchen, which holds her gold jewellery, along with some other miscellaneous items like a small tub of saffron (used sparingly in dishes made for special occasions), some band aids etc. And whenever I used to need a band aid, and open the container, I use to get a whiff off this dull spiciness with some metallic nuance from the jewellery, and thats what I get in the opening.
As the scent develops, the faint metallic vibes eases, but the dull warm spices become less dull, the saffron now feels more blooded, and joined with is the most luxurious note of Jasmine. Unfortunately for me the jasmine doesn't last too long, and as the scent dries down it takes with it the warm intense spicy Saffron with is joined by a juicy woody accord, and a dirty slightly animalic Oud, maybe due to the henna note.
This was a difficult review to conduct, as the scent was incredibly complex, it hits you differently on each wearing, with so many facets and complexities, it was difficult to identity just one accord. This is a very regal, and opulent scent, fit for royalty.
The projection is strong for the first couple of hours, after which is becomes moderate, with a solid scent cloud. Longevity is brilliant 12+ hours.
Best suited to formal occasions.
Perfect score of 5/5, a masterpiece.
Classified as a oriental floral
Nose behind the scent is Sultan Pasha, a self taught attar perfumer based in London, UK.
Top: Butter, Rose and Iranian Saffron Heart: Turkish Rose and Sandalwood Base: Hindi Oud, Hyrax, Musk, Ambergris and Tobacco.
Two very different experiences on each wearing.
First experience of this scent was mind blowing, I got this heavy animalic musky, leathery hyrax, with a touch of funky Hindi Oud. It was a daring and challenging scent, but it blew me away and I absolutely loved it. Second wearing was more of classic rose Oud, very bright and floral sweet rose, with a gentle funky Hindi Oud base.
On subsequent wearings I got that animalic musky leather in the opening, but it eased as the scent developed in the heart, due to this sweet floral rose. Now the rose in this is very floral, its sweet but not due to gourmand notes such as vanilla, it's not a jammy rose. As the scent dries down there's a touch of the Hindi Oud, which gives a faint woody touch and aids the funkiness present in the scent. It's to me in the dry down this incredibly sexy animalic musky and subtle leathery scent, it has this sweaty human skin feel, with a touch of smooth and sweet rose. Glorious, complex and undoubtedly high quality, the rose especially feels incredible natural.
Projection is moderate on this scent, pretty strong for the first hour, but then becomes more moderate. Longevity on my skin was around 6-8 hours.
Overall rating for this one is 5/5, I love animalic scents, and this one was one of the best I've come across so far!
Classified as a floral
Nose behind this scent is Sultan Pasha, a self taught attar maker, considered by many as the best in the world.
As a child, Sultan Pasha was exposed to lush fertile jungles with tea gardens nearby. The air was rife with the scent of green foliage, earth and moisture mingling with the creamy scent of ripe wild fruits and berries alongside the creamy narcotic scent of white and yellow florals.
Top: gardenia enfleurage and jasmine sambac enfleurage. Heart: lavender absolute, tuberose absolute, gardenia absolute and sandalwood. Base: Bois de Borneo (rare Borneo oud by Ensar oud), katrafay, tonka absolute, calamus, Haitian vetiver, galbanum, civet and ambergris.
Beautiful and luscious jasmine opening, really rich and bright but also creamy possibly from the sandalwood, with a noticable calming lavender which sadly only lasts a few minutes. The opening almost has a leather or better described as a suede opening, which is surrounded by white florals such as tuberose, jasmine and gardenia especially which really starts dominating the scent within the first 5 minutes or so. As the fragrance develops it almost becomes creamier and smoother, coming across a little like almond (possibly coming from the tonka bean). Sadly there isn't much development after that (that I could detect), due to performance issues.
Projection is good for the first hour, after which it sits much closer to the skin. Though if someone was to come close to you, they would be able to smell it. In terms of longevity this lasted on my skin for around 5 hours.
Overall a solid scent, masterfully crafted but the performance wasn't the best on my skin. 5/10
In love with this orange-carnation infused smoky vanilla with a powdery tonka touch.
What can I say - it’s a sweet, intoxicating bomb. When I wear it to bed, it wakes me up in the night. But it is sexy and it makes me feel powerful, which is why I decided not to sell it (I took the ad down after a month or so, guess it’s not a popular choice among perfume enthusiasts since no one even tried to buy it :D). The fruity top notes are very prominent throughout the wear and the sweetness of the whole thing is a bit too much sometimes. This one needs a certain mood.
Elegant, multi-layered, beautiful Italian chic.
Amazing warm incensy rose. Has that slightly plasticity ELDO note to my nose, but that goes quickly.
The jammy rose is just beautiful. The incense is vibrant and warming.
I get a little dankness of oud, but maybe that's a reminder of something like Ombrè Nomad.
I don't know (nor really care) what this says about me, but I do like the smell of real world weed... I also love grapefruit and leather (as a note, I love Fahrenheit and Bleu), so my hype for this was really big. But I was disappointed. Doesn't smell like a realistic weed strain, but rather like... for example, you know that oranges don't smell/taste like 'orange candy' or 'orange-flavored' stuff, same with a lot of other stuff. Well, that happens here; it smells like something 'weed-flavored' and not like actual weed. Furthermore, it smells 'weed-AND-grape-flavored' (yes, not grapefruit... grape!). I think that, ironically, the grapefruit gives that impression. A greenish, kinda' Polo-like leather is there, but the weed 'n' grape don't let me enjoy it. Didn't exactly give a headache, but if I kept smelling the application point, I could get nauseous.
Overall, I really tried to like it, but... yeah, nah. Interestingly, even some older women of my family liked it (unaware of the cannabis note).
Aside from my disliking of the scent itself, it has great performance for those who do like it. It may be obvious, but I'll say it anyways: this is unsafe for blind-buying (try it first!). It's a more-on-the-cold-weather-side fragrance, and a night beast for those who can pull it off.
Finally, IMHO, Paco Rabanne's Invictus Platinum kind of reminds me of this, but better, less synthetic/candy-like, and fresher.
I don't want to be mean, but this smells like a glorified apple pie, and not in a good way. Don't get me wrong: I love apple pie, I love it's smell, but I don't want to smell like it, and worse in a fragrance (with the obvious alcohol a fragrance has). I think is the same concept of working in a bakery or a restaurant; bread and garlic smell awesome, but smelling like those is not the best idea.
This was gifted to me. It's not a fragrance that I completely dislike, but it's not something I would like to have again either; in real life, I love both cranberries and coffee, but together, in the scent realm, ah... it's not a good combination for me. There's amber, wood and citrus; the sage is subtle, and I detect no saffron. I rather spray myself a little, because I have the personal impression that it can be kind of offensive if heavily sprayed... it's just too sweet, I guess, but then again, that's for me. I get that cranberries and coffee are good scents, but I think they should be not together. It's a very fall-ish fragrance, and while you can use it for day-time because of the cranberries and the citrus, the sweet coffee note (not like espresso or black coffee, but more like sugary big-hype-and-price-but-low-quality-brand beverage) makes it fit for evening-use, specially if you are in a casual setting... and well, only in you like it, because, I can't imagine other scenarios (like a romantic date or an action-packed night) with it; teens might like this, I don't know. I strongly recommend to test it first.
Just beautiful.
Like walking through a wet garden border where the mint grows. The mint remains prominent but subsides eventually. Just an amazing scent.
Leather, definitely present... present as inside a tannery or an old west leather goods store. And ah, the gasoline; the result of the combined vetiver, cedar, ozonic violet leaves. The leather and the gasoline effect compliment each other, giving, at first, some 'tough/bad guy' vibes; think of leather jackets, dark alleys, baseball bats at the shoulder, chopper bikes, muscle cars, metal-frame and wood-grip guns, hard rock, heavy metal, the Terminator. However, that's the first minutes, about 20; after that, it mellows nicely. The leather continues, but the gasoline slowly fades, giving way to nutmeg, musk, amber, flowers, and citrus zests, and in the process to some sophisticated vibes; think of a cigar-smoking and bourbon-or-espresso-drinking bearded man in a three-piece suit, slow blues, R&B, high-end old west, polished brown or tan brogues or dress boots, the night, a room with dim lights or a fireplace while it's raining outside, a black Jaguar E-Type or Chevy Corvette C1, noir films, the series' Lucifer.
I perfectly understand why some people (myself included) love this and why some others hate it; this is very, very masculine; manly as f... hell, specially for the first minutes. I think it is an acquired taste (like many things in life). In terms of craft beer, this is the equivalent of an IPA or a toasty stout; regular light-lager-only drinkers will obviously have a rough time the first time(s). Hell, it's even like classic cocktail or neat spirit sipping for a regular beer guy, or for those who drink spirits only in shots or heavily sweet and/or diluted cocktails; there's nothing wrong in liking fresh or blue scents (after all, there's a moment and place for everything), but yeah, I think you get me. This fragrance shines in cooler weather; winter all day, spring and fall nights and afternoons, maybe even some special night dates in summer. For whatever-you-hold-dear-and-sacred sake, don't wear this in shorts and sandals; it's simply wrong, and people who notice it will rightfully think you have no idea of what you're doing. Likewise, don't wear this in the beach, or in a summer high noon (maybe unless you're in an old-west something...?), or if you're too young (having said that, I think some teenagers could pull it off quite nicely depending on context, but it's risky). Finally, while there are illustrated ladies who love when a man wears this (because, well, masculine scent), some others will not like it and prefer a fresh and nice (but sometimes-plain-or-boring-for-us) smelling guy. Chances are that girls who don't like Sauvage, Acqua di Giò or Light Blue because they're relatively common, they're too fresh (then again, context) and/or they are not manly enough, will in turn like Fahrenheit.
It is expensive, for what it is. I only wore this during summer, so far, so I'm waiting to try it in fall. The tanginess of top notes doesn't really go away for me, making it not a totally silky smooth experience, it's a tiny bit screechy.
It’s so manly! Dry and woody perfume that can be enjoyed almost all year long, but I’d recommend it for colder months.