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My Signature
627 reviews
Add a heroic dose of hyrax to L'Heure Bleue EDP and you have this. Eveyone says it's similar to Theo Fennell Scent, but it's closer to L'Heure Bleue or Cuir Mauresque to my nose. Update: after an hour or so, I started to find it really relentless and lacking in subtlety. I was just left with this thick, heavy leather and nothing to balance it out, and ended up having a shower to get rid of it (somewhat unsuccessfully).
All of the Céline perfumes I've tried dry down to the same soft, quality vanilla base, but this one does it most wonderfully. The opening cigarette smoke is very intriguing but would get annoying if it didn't transition into delicate galbabum quite quickly. Soon after, the patchouli becomes apparent, and as with the other notes, this is the classiest patchouli, worthy of Chanel, and gives this perfume a woody edge which stops it being just vanilla fluff, and also complements the tiny soupçon of moss. As with most Céline perfumes, this is surprisingly strong, as it seems quite discreet at first, but once you get going with your day you will notice it.
On card it smelled so repugnant I assumed I'd never use up my decant. However, on the skin it's a different story, it's very salty and the chilli radiates off the skin, without turning too culinary. The mango is really an afterthought, although the general vibe of the perfume is tropical, so it's a fitting name anyway.
À disgraceful hot mess of a perfume, glorious and wrong in equal measures. Very much in the spirit of any Frankie Bianchis, Sadonaso, Salome, etc. Not the most wearable perfume, and pretty pungent, i.e. one spray too many and you'll induce a headache, but I'm glad to have a few mls Update: I like it less every time I wear it. It's too much and doesn't have the balance and warmth provided by natural oakmoss in vintage perfumes of this style. Instead it's just screechy and invasive.
It dries down to Le Participe Passé by Serge Lutens, after two hours of gruelling, laceratingly sharp, cheesey, chemical smelling aldehydes and way too much synthetic civet. It's an ordeal to go through, and I can't understand why it's so popular.
Some perfumes seem to defy nature with their texture, and for me this has the texture of a squidgy paste... a wet, compacted powder containing florals, plastic/rubber, clay, leaves and soap. There's a hint of woody leather somewhere underneath it all, that comes and goes. Every time I smell it I get something different.
This is an old-school mossy, vibrant, raw floral banger. It's exquisitely well-made and sings off of the skin, leaving a glorious hazy sillage. If you don't like the vase-water-and-all style florals you probably won't like this, but if you do, and you appreciate the photorealistic honey-índole of blooming white flowers, this may be a masterpiece for you, as it is for me.
À nice safe sweet vanillic benzoin. I don't get the eucalyptus or clary sage, just benzoin with a touch of incense, lovely but these are ten a penny nowadays. Perhaps it was ahead of the game.
Incredible neroli, perhaps the only neroli based scent I can consider wearing without finding it's the same as 4711. It's multi-faceted and complex, and has this almost fishy, marine-like quality, though not too much. I've layered it with Silence the Sea today, spectacular!
(Vintage miniature) A monstrous, grandiose, melancholic, índolic, honking great white floral fanfare. It's not a million miles from Lost In Flowers, although this is much more gritty realism and less magical sparkle. Diorissimo is magnificent and relentless, difficult to wear but a masterpiece all the same.
Smells exaclty like raw tonka for five seconds, then dries down into AMen business as usual.