Salome is unspeakably impressive. It’s hard to find the words to describe such a scent, but for this is something that can only be experienced to be understood; though even then you never might. It takes the idea of chypre to regions uncharted, and yet still retains subtle characteristics of bygone masterpieces we know and love. The scent itself is very dry, surprisingly so, a central theme of warming carnation and tobacco find themselves leaning into their spicy facets through an outrageous dose of cumin, giving the scent this almost sweaty filth. Hyrax, hay and oakmoss further this dry dirtiness, whilst the sweet, dense nature of castoreum and vanilla create what seems almost fruity in its flair when combined with the indolic charm of jasmine, orange blossom and rose. There’s so much going on in this scent, it’s impossible to find where it ends. You’ll spend hours scrambling your way through this dusty boudoir, only to find dirtier secrets within, the longer you look. If any scent defines what a modern masterpiece means, it is this one.
Add a heroic dose of hyrax to L'Heure Bleue EDP and you have this. Eveyone says it's similar to Theo Fennell Scent, but it's closer to L'Heure Bleue or Cuir Mauresque to my nose. Update: after an hour or so, I started to find it really relentless and lacking in subtlety. I was just left with this thick, heavy leather and nothing to balance it out, and ended up having a shower to get rid of it (somewhat unsuccessfully).
Okay so...it's official...Salome is my favourite perfume from this brand. I had to make sure, when Liz announced Bengale rouge I was about to purchase Salome but then thought I wait to see what it was all about. Which was fine but BR couldn't knock the crown off Salome. It opens with a cumin leather infused, smooth, mildly vegetal remiscent of raw, leathery, castoreum tempered by more rounded orris butter or somethin? This is reinforced later with dry Ionone smells later on. The main effect which points to classic oriental/chypre hybrid a la the late, great Mr Guy Robert is the contrast of clearly animalic undertones with powdery florals. On top a gentle but firm, carnation accord blooms, a little powdered but not really, the whole effect is quite masculine. It was on me at least and I said this of Salome if a man wore it I'd likely gesture to him in some blokey acknowledgement of his keen interest in very finely made, classic perfumery. If it was a woman I'd likely be begging at her stilettoed heel, like some submissive dog/manslave! The animalic nature giving Salome a mildly sexy charge. I'll say this though, it's full bodied and uncompromising and yet I find it a total pussycat and carefully applied it's so very pleasant and polite. The animalics in here are clearly handled with a very deft touch and Liz is in her element making these creations which nod at vintage perfumes, all in a genre of their own. Some Indy perfumers use animalics in a very hamfisted way, banging a load a civet replacer in and calling that an animalic accord when for me it lacks nuance and sinks like a stone to the bottom of the composition only to languish and likely still be detected on your skin days later. (to be fair you can smell Salome the next day) No doubt Salome probably uses Civet replacer but the overall musks seem to have been carefully woven and blended into the very fabric of what Salome is. It's muscanone, mallow warm, sweet musks and the more authentic, deer, pissy animalic shangrilide and animalis type too but perfectly balanced. I think it's completely mesmerising stuff. It's artistry isn't something to be broken down in the kinda tedious, armchair way I pluck and poke at possible materials used. Just wear it and revel in it. Superb.
I thought I had written a review on Salome but I guess I was too busy wearing and enjoying it. Papillon as a whole, is one of the few brands that keep my faith in indie, niche, and artisanal perfumery. While long time players have been going mainstream for the last 5 years or so, Liz Moores goes slowly and steadily towards curating a line that is both fascinating and rewarding. Salome is just an example. The concept behind, and the inspiration, was an old photograph from the turn of the century. And the scent itself could easily belong there, as it follows the footsteps of Shocking and even Femme; sepia toned, glowing warmth. Gentle spices, a French floral heart and a chypre backbone, Salome bends olfactory families and draws the best from them; expertly blended, it’s hard to pinpoint the notes. There’s effervescence in the opening from sparkling bergamot, spicy florals in the heart with a beautiful rose and carnation like you don’t smell anymore, and a beautiful animalic drydown that mixes civet, castoreum and hyraceum with musk and smoky patchouli. Just like older fragrances, the animalic notes enhance and magnify the whole composition, and don’t scream just for the sake of it. While dirty and skanky at times, mostly from the touch of cumin, the animalic notes make the scent far bigger than the sum of its parts. Here is where Femme comes into play; Salome feels like a worthy Roudnitska descendant in the best possible way. One relies on the erotic qualities of ripe fruit (plums, hence Prunol base) while Salome relies mostly on ripe florals past their prime. The spices are gentle and warm, merely glowing forever, and there’s a strong oakmoss bone that transcends standard orientals and chypres. Salome is art, expertly conceived, translating into pure pleasure to wear. Long lasting, noticeable for hours, and unabashedly sensual when worn, and sexual when smelt. In this time and age, when IFRA is the big bad wolf that has forever destroyed many beloved masterpieces, fragrances like this show that while there are restrictions, quality perfumes can still be made, as long as there is a coherent vision, zero focus groups and marketing, and no need for ass kissing big aromachemical corporations. As long as there is talent and people who believe in perfumery, there are still many more Salomes to come. And while IFRA will only get more restrictive, perfumery isn’t yet dead. Not by a long shot. Turkish Rose, Jasmine, Carnation, Oakmoss, Castoreum, Civet, Hyraceum, Styrax, Tobacco, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Sweet Hay, Bitter Red Orange, Bergamot, Cumin, Clove Bud, Birch Tar and Vanilla. These are the full notes according to Liz herself. Also included is the proprietary blend of musks used in every Papillon creation. Also, Hyraceum makes up 4% of every 50ml bottle.
