fragrances
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530 reviews
I have recently come to discover that I adore tuberose, if it’s done well. Usually the tuberose fragrances I love are eye-wateringly expensive with a strong presence of filth and sex - but Giorgio doesn’t fit into that category at all, and I still love it. It pushes the boundaries of what’s tolerable in society, and I relish the challenge. The tuberose is front and centre, and whilst intensely soapy and slightly bubblegummy, I don’t find it to be sickening as others might. Joined by an array of white florals, namely jasmine, alongside hints of fruits and soft woods, you’re left with what can only be described as a tuberose bomb. It’s intensely powerful. I imagine it’s not quite as strong as it was upon first release, as legend goes this was the only fragrance to be banned from restaurants worldwide due to is obnoxious strength. It’s easily tolerable these days. It doesn’t fit into my usual style at all and yet I do love it, I just can’t explain why.
I never got to smell the original Je Reviens, but the current Couture version is absolutely beautiful nonetheless - it contains everything you’d want from an old school floral, whilst making it easily wearable today. There’s a contrast of flowers here; on the one hand you’ve got the beautifully delicate harmony of jasmine and orange blossom, with their bright, soapy facets amplified by a generous dose of aldehydes. To contrast this, a trio of jonquil, narcissus and ylang combine to create the most addictive buttery smooth base you can imagine, allowing the brighter white florals to glide through the air with unspeakable grace. I love this scent, I only discovered it in recent months but already it’s a firm favourite and it makes me even more keen to smell the original. If you love vintage-style florals then you simply cannot go wrong with this, especially for the price.
Absolue de Mousse is the latest release from Rogue, and it’s yet another banger. To me this scent combines an intensely sharp, aromatic fougere character with a darker, warmer fresh spicy feel. There’s a lot going on which makes it hard to pick out what you’re actually smelling. Most obvious to my nose, is the fresh spicy facet - artemisia and sage bring out this almost sour bitterness which is thankfully tempered and softened by creamy mosses. The then spicy side of this development is brought on by a hefty dose of nutmeg which typically should be warming but definitely feels as though it’s been freshened up by everything else. In the base, myrrh, frankincense and labdanum make for a thick chewiness which gives it that punch. Overall, I think it’s fantastic. It’s got all the character of Rogue Perfumery and simply oozes contemporary creativity. It’s not the usual sort of scent profile I’d wear, but despite that I want a bottle - it’s a truly unique and wonderful release.
Jardin Nocturne was my first encounter with the house of Shalini and I was seriously impressed, in fact ‘blown away’ does not even do it justice. This is truly one of the most magical and intoxicating perfumes I’ve ever smelled; it goes far beyond just a want at this point, I need this scent. The composition shows Maurice Roucel at his absolute best, demonstrating how simplicity does not have to smell simple, and that quality rules above complexity. Jasmine is the main player here, one of the best Jasmine absolutes I’ve ever encountered, contrasted by the thick, slightly fecal and dense nature of pure Assam oud. A sweet whisper of saffron helps to balance this out, as it all rests on an ethereal, creamy base of sandalwood and musks, but overall it’s all about the jasmine and the oud. I adore this perfume. It is class and elegance of the highest level, transporting you to a place where all your worries simply evaporate. The confidence that comes with wearing Jardin Nocturne is second to none, I truly believe this is one of the greatest fragrances of the last decade.
CK One is the icon of the 90s, one of the most recognisable and well-known fragrances of recent decades; a scent doesn’t gain that sort of reputation for no reason. This is a fragrance I had always avoided, assuming it would be disappointing as all modern CK fragrances are - damn was I wrong. A bright, zingy symphony of juicy lemons and other citrus fruits dominate the senses, tempered by a powerful green presence. It’s one of those smells that’s so difficult to describe what you’re smelling, as it can only be described as the scent of CK One - that is where Alberto Morillas’ genius shines. I hate to say it, but I love this fragrance. I never thought I would say that about a Calvin Klein perfume, but I’ve found myself reaching for this more often than I care to admit. It’s such an easy wear and satisfies the senses every time I smell it; there’s something about it that just pulls you back in every single time. A true icon in modern perfumery.
Giorgio for Men is one of those fragrances you buy because it seems impossibly cheap, only to astound you with how incredible it is when it does arrive. After the success of the original Giorgio, there was a lot of pressure when it came to releasing a masculine counterpart - but I think they passed with flying colours. This fragrance crosses the bridge between a traditional mossy Chypre, and a typical barbershop-style fougere which were gaining popularity quickly. On one side you’ve got the rich, earthy presence of patchouli, oakmoss and soft woods, which rests on a gentle Amber base supporting a grand central theme of honeyed carnation and rose. The end result is phenomenal. Considering I picked up this 118ml bottle for just £10, I can’t believe how good it is. The value for money is unbelievable and I truly think this is a must have for any man - it’s got endless class, sophistication and traditionalism for such a low price.
Zombie for Him - does perfume marketed to smell like a zombie necessarily need to be gendered? Nevertheless, I think this fragrance fills its brief to the letter, whether that’s a good or a bad thing I don’t really know. Obviously it doesn’t smell like a zombie would, because who really knows what that would smell like. Instead, it smells like you are the zombie - it imagines what scents you might encounter as you first arise from your grave. A strong presence of wet, dank mosses and soil are reminiscent of someone unearthing the ground with a shovel in the pouring rain; whilst the more obscure notes of mushrooms and mildew create this horrible earthy flesh-like accord. Overall, it smells disgusting to put it frankly. But despite that, I can’t exactly hate on it because it’s achieving exactly what it says it should, so in that sense it’s a complete success of a fragrance. I absolutely would never wear it though and I fear anyone who does.
Naomi Goodsir describes Corpus Equus as a tribute to a fiery and impetuous horse, but I imagine a horse which has become impetuous as a result of being overworked tirelessly day in and day out by his masters. It has the very essence of man brooding over natural facets which are so desperately trying to push through. The leather here reminds me of the thick, brown, hard leather used to make saddles - this particular saddle has been worn down and used for years on end. The overwhelming smoky notes of birch, frankincense and smoked woods draw imagery of said saddle sat beside a campfire, resting on an oaken branch as horse and its master rest beside it. I think it’s physically impossibly not to imagine an entire story and environment around you when smelling this scent. There’s so much depth and rich connections hiding beneath the surface. This is my first encounter with Naomi Goodsir and I’m definitely intrigued to try more, but despite how thought provoking this fragrance is I can’t see myself wearing something like this.
The new Esprit de Parfum rendition of Ambre Nuit is glorious, I love it; it’s everything you’d want from a warm, cosy amber fragrance. It retains the thick, sweetly vanillic amber accord of the original, but replaces the gentle rose with a much warmer, spicier base. The smooth, buttery warmth of cardamom mingles with a sharper, dusty cinnamon which awakens a comforting festivity in the back of your mind. This addition of warm spices is similar to that of the new Oud Ispahan Esprit de Parfum. Overall, I think I love this. The original Ambre Nuit was already fantastic but if you ever wanted a thicker, darker, spicier version then this is it. I understand the disappointment regarding the loss of rose, which draws it away from its iconic scent profile, but as far as scent alone goes this is fantastic. If only it wasn’t so ridiculously expensive.
The new Esprit de Parfum of Oud Ispahan achieves everything you’d want from an extrait rendition of a fragrance, I suppose. It takes the westernised idea of a jammy rose water combined with a basic synthetic oud accord, but takes it that step further into something a little more exciting and interesting. Others have described this as smelling more animalic, I would disagree. It certainly has a degree of subtle filth about it, but this is quite clearly from the dominant presence of cumin - which gives the scent this overall dirty, slightly sweaty feel. A medley of other spices mingle beautifully with the rose and the oud, leaving you with a very bold and intoxicating scent trail. Oud Ispahan was never among my favourites from Dior, although it is a very pleasant scent, but this version I enjoy much more. Despite how lovely it is however, £380 for 80ml cannot be justified for something that overall still smells fairly synthetic and plasticky.