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Bvlgari Aqva Amara

Intriguing notes... the few that are listed. I look forward to this one hitting the shelves.

Well from looking at this fragrance and it's notes, prior to trying it I thought it would be a case of introducing a flanker that is completely different to the original and other subsequent flankers. Sure Amara starts out with citrus and has a bitter orange note in there too with the clean slightly soapy texture of white floral neroli most of which is different to the original and it's DNA. Having said this Amara is very reminiscent of the original and certainly Aqva marine to my nose and frankly I was expecting this to be vastly different from them I think it's clever that it retains the very sea like salty accord of Aqva and even the main body of it's character despite the subtle twist. I for one welcome that as if it had have gone whole heartedly into white floral territory I may not have liked it...but I definitely do! This fragrance is just as popular with me as the other Aqvas and maybe even surpasses them? I will have to give this further testing but it's a very well done indeed and welcome addition to the Aqva family.

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Chanel Egoiste

I thought I'd written a review on this already but I hadn't and it's about time I gave my opinion on this one. Egoiste was (and still is) a strange one for me, one thing is for certain... it oozes quality and is much more challenging than the safety of Egoiste Platinum. I like platinum and although it's more wearable in the main I'd say it's pale in comparison with this. When I say challenging I'm refering to the huge complexity of this fragrance. I get something of the dated about it and can pick up on the carnation note and some leathery vanilla too it's strange. All of this amid a huge (over?)dose of sandalwood and rose which is an interesting combination with the warming sweetness of cinnamon. I personally (after many tries on my skin) just can't work out whether I love or hate it? One thing is for sure though the sandalwood/rose combo is too much for me when first applied. However, the progression of this fragrance has a slightly creamy element from the sandalwood and vanilla which keep me sniffing. In the deep drydown (after several hours) Egoiste is out of this world!! The woody qualities that remind me of very high end fragrances come to play and create an amazing close skin scent which is very deep and sensual. Dare I say it this is one of the best dry downs I've experienced after a complex opening that I'm not mad about. It must be as the sandalwood settles that the fragrance gets better and becomes a gorgeous spiced leather. Can't wait to try the cologne concentree which is supposed to be classier still!

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Penhaligon's Castile

Wow for me this is a totally new take on orange blossom in that it doesn't start out with that waxy, over the top white floral, neroli thing to begin with. It's a dirty kind of citrus to begin with which has a vague Orange blossom underneath...and I honestly do detect rose and musk, it's a good opening which unfortunately doesn't last long. About half an hour in... all that disappears! It becomes the familiar soapy white floral thing...incredibly soapy in fact! I don't particularly like this fragrance I just find it interesting how the opening notes mask the floral heart in the beginning. Not bad...a unisex fragrance with moderate longevity.

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Space NK Laughter Nuit

I took my girlfriend into Space NK as I wanted to buy the Acqua di Parma Mandorlo di Sicilia and I wish I hadn't!! She proceeded to get a full make over and try every cosmetic product under the sun, payback really for all the times I've dragged her around sniffing out perfume. Anyway...She came away from our visit with more samples than me for a change (I didn't get any!!!) and this was among them. For a start I was attracted to the colour scheme on the sample card a really deep purple/brown sort of hue with and contrasting coloured border. I'm not normally too bothered about that sort of thing but looked very expensive and after all you buy with your eyes. When I read the notes on the side of the card too I was equally excited couldn't wait for her wear it and have a sniff. Citrus top, incense heart, woods, musk even saffron in there sounded amazing and smells very good in actual fact. The opening is citrus, the bergamot and grapefruit being the main players. Fruits are surrounded by a musky, lightly spiced vibe which is sweet and warm. I really like this fragrance, I only smelled it on my girlfriends skin and it was feminine on her but immediately I was taken with it and absolutely would wear it myself. Minor critisism...I would've liked the incense to be deeper and stronger because although it's present it's not present enough for my liking. Great fruity musk scent though I highly recommend it!

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Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain

34 Boulevard Saint Germain

This is pretty good. It has some of the qualities of L'Eau Diptyque's cinnamon and clove without the same focus on these notes, the heaviness and creamy base of sandalwood. This is however woody and floral too and has a nice dry down, which lasts on my skin well. I think 34 Boulevard saint Germain will also take a few tries to form a solid opinion and get more of the complexities from it. I'm not sure I'd wear this but I wasn't repelled so further investigation is required.

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Diptyque Eau de 34

Great citrus and fruit opening which turns ever so slightly soapy but never tips any balance too far. This is a good subtle scent I enjoyed it but it didn't blow me away. Diptyquesque (hahah) all over really! Some triumphs but in the main just consistently likable but not exceptional fragrances, across the board. I'd need to try it again to see if I could pick out more notes in this one.

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Kenneth Cole Kenneth Cole Black for Men

Kenneth Cole Black for Men

Okay so I was expecting good things from this as the only other Kenneth Cole fragrance I've tried is Reaction and in my opinion it's excellent. My high hopes weren't dashed either, this is yet another fruity/musk combo which is fresh and smells really good as I'm a totally sucker for mandarin notes. I was expecting something darker, spicier, woodier maybe? and smokey too from a name like 'Black' and some of the reviews here but this is light and uplifting for me. I wish I got some incense or smoke but I just didn't. It's just a pleasant fruity/woody/musk scent and was actually very pleasing to my nose but even more fleeting than Reaction in that the longevity was poor on my skin. Maybe it requires another try to get more of the other qualities of this scent but all together a nice smelling scent.

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Penhaligon's Iris Prima

This one is officially unisex but often touted as being more feminine and I can see that but don't let that put you off because despite this I think it's almost wearable for me. A very nice, Iris note opens a really clean, delicately spiced scent which then reveals a smooth leather quality. Another good composition from Penhaligon's the amber and tiny bit of vanilla in the base are subtle and make for a pleasant dry down... I really enjoyed this.

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Penhaligon's Elixir

Well...I'm shocked that the town I live in has a Penhaligon's boutique and I must say it's one of the most beautiful shops I've ever been in, like a victorian chemists or something? Anyway...When I asked the lady at the counter how long it had been there she said "...around 12....(she paused as I thought she'd say months) she turned to her colleague and said "Is it 12? Yeah 12 YEARS we've been here!" It's very small and tucked away so easily missed but I still can't believe it's been there for 12 years and I've only just found it! So Elixir? I'd asked this question before of other Penhaligon suppliers "Do you have anything with incense in an eau de parfum?" and they always come up with Elixir. I've tried it a couple of times now and I must say I really enjoy it, like many from this house it's very well blended indeed. For me though although it has some smoke and spice to it the main player is rose and it's a very nice rose the spice is subtle, with a gentle incense running through it. This is actually one of my favourites and that's saying something too as I do like a lot of their creations. Difficult to pick apart the notes like penhaligon's Sartorial, Opus 1870 etc it's complex and well done. The main reason I was interested in this one was the concentration, as my main gripe with this house is the longevity. Elixir is better but still not good for the price and if you're looking for a powerhouse this isn't it. I really like this one though and may add it to my collection in future.

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Ferrari Ferrari Light Essence

Ferrari Light Essence

As far as citrus/fruity fragrances go...this ain't bad at all, actually quite pleasant! Sharp citrus at first then fruity and a little floral and a woody base it's a good fragrance and has much better longevity and projection than Ferrari black, so quite heavy and not really light at all. Pretty good stuff.

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Ferrari Ferrari Black

Okay so a Ferrari fragrance and this was actually the second one I tried and I preferred the first to be honest. I was expecting something less safe and frankly boring from Ferrari especially this black version maybe something deeper but no. A very nondescript and poor fragrance which has really bad longevity. Doesn't smell bad at first but disappears quickly.

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Nasomatto Duro

DURO!!!! The HARD ON of male perfumery! I saw a video of some guy reviewing it on youtube and he claimed that the name had sexual connotations. I had to correct him at the time thinking 'Duro' just means 'Hard' in Italian and it was just his dirty mind and the marketing material talking about what a masculine statement this fragrance makes. That's the intended concept anyway...and as I said I was skeptical. That was...until I got my nose on it! Wild this one... make no mistake! If you like wood up the wazzoo this is the fragrance for you! Loud woodiness of dank strong Oud and a harder denser wood combined with it. Then there's the spice it's hard but not in a cooking spice type of way or even a hot chili kind of way, it's dry woody spice...almost like the natural spicey scent that would come from a piece of exotic wood. This fragrance for me is absolutely everything I look for in a masculine powerhouse. The spice perfectly tones down the unpleasant quality oud can have. You know? that bit when it takes a nosedive after the initial almost sweet strange amber quality. Anyway...the price of this juice is high, extortionately high some might say but I still felt Duro was a worthy purchase because of how bold and strong this juice is. Longevity and projection are massive as you'd expect from extrait de parfum. It's not especially unique smelling this one but what can I say? It has a certain appeal & I was charmed by it.

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Lanvin L'Homme Sport

This scent has struck up a great balance, unlike the tennis pro it has been made for. Don't know if anyone has noticed but Rafa has one massively developed arm and one little, puny, skinny girl arm. To be fair he's evened things out a little since then. Lanvin impressed me greatly with Avant Garde but I still didn't know what to expect from this sport fragrance having never tried the original L'Homme. Well it's very nice indeed the opening is a little of what you've smelled before...citrus lemon CK One kind of vibe. Once the initial sharpness of the lemon dies down it becomes a mixture of fruit, can't quite place what though? The mixture of musk and herbs is perfectly executed in my humble opinion. Leave it to dry down for a while and it turns into a gorgeous scent which rivals any sport fragrance I've ever sniffed out for freshness.

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Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud

Woah! Woah! I'd anticipated my meeting with Leather Oud with much trepidation not just after looking at the notes but seeing a few negative comments in the forum. I like Oud (genuinely, I know what it's smells like!) Leather, in principle is great and a favourite note but can be and often is... done badly. It's the animalistic element and beeswax to this that worried me. It just seemed to compound the other acquired tastes into a hellish mixture that could easily be awful...I was thinking Montale's cuir d'Arabie but with animal stink thrown in for good measure. Just for the record I like the bravery of the Montale it represents a different kind of leather and the dry down is fantastic it's just the opening and first couple of hours that are almost unbearably horrible! Anyway...To my surprise this fragrance is really good. It's inkeeping with the trend of this Dior range, notably being really well blended indeed. The Oud is great and not stifled or distorted by the leather the animal quality is actually really good in the context of this fragrance. The longevity is massive and the animal quality is manageable in the dry down. As one reviewer has mentioned it smells like sex...and that's a good description. Insanely raw and primal yet somehow finessed at the same time this is not for the faint of heart in terms of wearing it... I'm still not sure whether I would myself as I prefer something with spices. This perfume is bold and makes a real statement don't have any preconceptions or write this off without trying because like me, you might be pleasantly surprised.

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Nasomatto Hindu Grass

Patchouli overdose!!! This thing is banging and green in a way that I haven't encountered before to be honest. It's not the sort of thing I'm used to. Even the patch dominance seems unfamiliar when accompanied by these other grassy and tobacco notes, it could be the concentration...I don't know? It's a weird one...but I do like it. Hindu Grass intrigues me and encourages me to get my nose on it again. I'm staggering my nasomatto reviews having tried everything(ex.Pardon) they have to offer and I was only compelled to purchase Duro at this high price. The jury is still out on Black Afgano. I'm not sure when or where I would wear Hindu Grass it's a daring scent and no mistake.

As I mentioned in my original review below the patchouli in this fragrance is more 'hippy' than a chocolatey 'Tom Ford type' but it's more than that. The green and earthy notes surrounding it create a kind of floral almost natural soft leathery feel especially in the dry down. What a dry down it is too...magical! This juice has a opulent quality that you only get from a very high end fragrance, it's stunning to be honest. It teeters between green freshness and an intoxicating patchouli that to me is unique. There's notes in the drydown too which are almost rough against the general smoothness...if that makes sense? I love it anyway and definitely more impressed a second time.

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Giorgio Armani Vétiver d'Hiver (Vetiver Babylone)

Vétiver d'Hiver (Vetiver Babylone)

Okay so... is this going to spellbind anyone? I doubt it! It's very reminiscent of many Acqua di Parma's really, fresh citrus and fruit in the top with a super clean, delicately spiced woody dry down. I found the opening to be very citrus and green too but pleasant and then the slighty rusty vetiver underneath is revealed. I get a slight tea vibe and some cardamom too. To be honest, contrary to reviews on here the first time I tried it I found the vetiver quite earthy. On wearing it for a second time it's much cleaner and more reminiscent of Jo Malone vetyver, or 154. I think it's common knowledge that I like a good perfume like this when it's well done. I'm not sure what this retails for but I'd imagine it's expensive so in that case I'd say go with an alternative. I will say this... it has good longevity. Update: 31/01/23 Wow Nearly ten years since I reviewed this one. Have I got much more to say on this? Nothing earth shattering to add but I like the use of vetiver here, it's very functional in that if you like root like, dry, smoky vetiver this is perhaps not for you, but paired with citrus in this context it shines beneath all the fresh stuff making a woody, musky, wooly sort of feel. It's paired back, understated but has a certain quality and power to it, and not a trace of ....oh ISO E SUPER or Ambroxan...yada yada is propping it all up, at no time does it retreat into a single aroma chemical or boring base, it's blended right to the bitter end. Underappreciated I'd say. Thoroughly enjoyed wearing it today.

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Nasomatto China White

Right!!! So for the authentic effect, I decanted some onto a bent spoon and burned it a little before injecting and let me tell you it smelled awful! Okay what's with everyone going on about the name? If you think about it most china (ceramic) is white and paint hues are named 'China White' without any intended drug references to street names for smack! Where do you think that came from anyway? What would people rather it be called....'Snow White'? Which would have ridiculous fairytale and still further drug connotations! RANT OVER! As for the smell of this it's BIG and BOLD! Nasomatto don't know how to do anything else. Even with a scent like this which is powdery and floral it's an industrial Iron fist in a velvet glove. I get lots of animalistic musk from this which under normal circumstances I wouldn't like especially in a floral scent but this is intriguing to me. I have to say I quite like china white not for me to wear but I can definitely appreciate it. It has a unique edge and I can't think of many scents like it.

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Robert Piguet Oud

Again the name is very deceptive here...not a Oud centric fragrance at all but hey I think you've got to look past a simplistic name like simply 'Oud' as a creation with a base in Oud. (I'm sure it's in there somewhere?) I love saffron, styrax and Myrrh and was hoping this would deliver something special and it kinda does? I truly haven't made my mind up on this yet. I hate to label things with a sex but I'm going to anyway haha! Something about this leans slightly more toward the feminine as I felt with Casbah. I know, I know it's strange but that's the impression I got. This being said It's not too feminine to dismiss me wearing it and that is the usual gauge I use to determine how much I like it. The fir and saffron in top of this fragrance make for a bewildering opening that soon subsides to reveal an almost rusty, very dry resinous vibe. Although I quipped about the oud at the top of this review it is present but lends a harder quality possibly from the combo with guaiac wood. This is a strange one for me didn't hit me as instantly as Bois noir as a keeper but definitely worth another sniff especially if like me, you love Myrrh.

Something I left out of my review below is that this fragrance opens with masses of balsam fir which comes across very menthol and strong then the resins kick. I like this fragrance still not for me though.

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Giorgio Armani Figuier Eden

I don't know what it is about me a fig based scents but we seem to be drawn to each other like some sort of fatal attraction. Strange really despite the usual feminine association. Interesting that the review below compares this to Fico di amalfi and naturally who wouldn't make the connection. However as somebody who has the ADP and loves it I must admit Figuier Eden is better. Not that I see this as 'high end' compared to the Fico in truth most of the Armani Prive line are pretty lackluster for the price. The opening of this scent is really good, fresh, juicy and bursting out of the bottle, with the addition of iris which to me really makes the fig pop! Fico is a little watery and subdued in comparison, to me more suited to summer, where as I see the Armani as being a little more versatile. The drydown of Figuier is more powdery and you definitely get the iris contributing to a longer lasting scent on the skin. The verdict is good...very good if you like figs you could do a lot worse than this but arguably better too.

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Jo Malone London White Jasmine & Mint

White Jasmine & Mint

Jo Malone London

Okay so I'll comment briefly on this as I didn't consider it for myself but rather my girlfriend for her birthday. Now that I've bought this and peony blush I have decided to give them to my mum for Christmas instead as they're probably more up her street. I had a discussion with the lady in the Jo Malone boutique and she said this was not a big seller and judging by the comments here I'm not surprised. Personally I thought it was lovely. For me it doesn't have the sweetness of jasmine or the waxy, soapiness of white florals like tuberose or orange blossom but something about it was really gentle and soothing. Perhaps it's the freshness of the mint which is easy to perceive without being too minty and makes this fragrance pleasant. I like it for a woman and even a man could pull this off if he wanted...not me though. Great scent and underated in the Jo Malone collection in my opinion.

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Lanvin Avant Garde

Oh Lanvin Avant Garde how you've ducked under my radar all this time. I've been aware of this fragrance for ages now and I've had the opportunity to try it on a couple of occassions and passed it by. At this point I'd just like to add that I'm not sure why I didn't want to try it because I love to shoehorn in the words/phase(?)"Avant Garde" into conversation and the presentation of the product is very good so you'd have thought it would be of interest to me? Anyway... Thought I'd check out the notes on here and when I did, I didn't hold out much hope...beeswax and tobacco...hmmmm? I love tobacco but there's many variables within that accord and I straight just don't like beeswax unless in some very special circumstances. Well... These are very special circumstances indeed! Love this fragrance it's a smooth, dark, resinous masculine juice which combines a very good rich tobacco with the quality of beeswax and the combination is such that I actually like the beeswax! It just works this one, very warming and great for winter. Avante Garde is a stand out juice at a great price can't recommend this stuff highly enough.

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Dior Ambre Nuit

Ambre Nuit is an absolute knockout! The opening is wonderful and then it just gets better and better in the dry down. I adore it! I've sniffed many amber scents in my time and this one is an instant favourite...surpassing the likes of Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche and Tom Ford Ambre Absolute. Ambre nuit is so well put together it genuinely had me hooked and constantly smelling myself because it's so divine. Really unexpected from Dior too. I was honestly thinking...'Here we go again...I'll probably like it but it's yet another amber...' boy was I wrong! The nostril stinging sensation that I usually get from potent niche amber's is just not apparent with this creation, it's smooth from start to finish. A very subdued and gentle amber which has the perfect balance of sweetness and spice. The rose is so well blended it offers up beautiful qualities without once smelling like rose...if that makes sense? It's no projection or sillage monster but the longevity is pretty good. This scent stays close to the skin and is so natural it's almost a skin enhancer...if that makes sense? Although if I knew anyone who smelled like this naturally they'd probably have a perminent harem of folks following them around trying to sniff them. Great fragrance...well done Dior.

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Giorgio Armani Cuir Noir

At first when sprayed this had me excited a dank, mouldy Oud woodiness with almost sweet top notes that are perfectly complimentary. I thought this had the quality and balance of MFK Oud but sadly as it develops past the opening couple of minutes or so, it shows it's true colours. It's not bad as such but just very weak and longevity is poor. This is odd because I would've thought they'd use the same quality of Agarwood for all this collection (with the gold stoppers) and Oud royal is good and Myrrhe imperiale (although doesn't have Oud) is a favourite of mine. The leather in this is there but not very pleasant and luckily not very strong when it emerges, nor does it stick around for long. Cuir noir is certainly not smooth or luxurious and does evoke more of a rough tanning vibe which is supposed to be Armani's intention. This fragrance is not bad just lacking in originality and strength at this price point. The dry down is subtle but pleasant if you like Oud...That's all I can say really.

Okay brief re-review as I've started on my second sample. I pretty much agree with my original sentiments a great smelling, resiny, Oud opening, quite sweet actually, which matures to a rough leather and vanilla this could be so fantastic if only it lasted. I must say I'm really enjoying the second wear this sent is right up my street and I'd even put up with the longevity & projection issues if it was significantly cheaper.

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Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial

Great, great opening on this one I was drawn in from the very first sniff, strange really as I like patch (I mean who doesn't?) (Ps I am aware some people don't I was being rhetorical.) But I'm not crazy about it and don't often consider fragrances with patchouli in the name. Also, this is my first delve into this collection from Dior and it's off to a good start let me tell you. It has a menthol almost medicinal vibe in the opening and a little fruit not really what I expected but very pleasant. The patchouli becomes really chocolaty in the dry down like cacao & sweet leafy soil mixed with truffles or something? So not sweet gourmand chocolate just that lovely dark thing patch does when it becomes like chocolate. This is a good blend and the whole vibe puts me in mind of Tom Ford Noir or like an uncluttered black orchid...in other words...heavy on the patchouli as you'd expect. My verdict was initially this was my favourite until the amber one I tried dried down and I really how gorgeous it was. So this is no slouch its a good, extremely well made fragrance and the price is pretty reasonable considering the amount of juice you get. Oh...just one minor criticism of this line. Dior have taken a minimalist approach to the packaging on these but in my opinion they look cheap and nasty. The bottles displayed on the Dior counter are bright (crazy juice colours)and easily recognisable but they look to me like cocktail syrups or soda stream flavours or something...not high end perfumes.

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