Opening is a no. Drydown is a major yes
Unapologetic elegance. Dior Homme Parfum opens with a slightly animalic leather and sandalwood sharpened by a hint of orange. A heart of cedar and ambrette then join the party as the leather and iris begin to take over. As this dries down you’re blasted with beautifully smooth Iris and leather with a touch of rose. The combination of sandalwood, oud and cedar running through this scent from start to finish is undeniably masculine, perfect for a classy night out when you’re dressed to impress. This is the epitome of men’s designer fragrances, a fantastic release from Dior and a master stroke by Francois Demachy. It’s rich, sophisticated and powerful, and will stick to your skin all day making a lasting impression on those around you. A must have for any fragrance collector and a true modern classic.
To me Force evokes the feeling of beautiful artists studios, empty spaces full of the potential for creativity. The sense of clay work happening recently and dried paint. Or of a forest clearing blanketed in mist. It’s the stillness of these pictures, yet they somehow manifest a certain life energy. It begins with a wintery air of delicate mint then a distant flicker of church incense. There’s smoke amidst evergreens. The orris is earthy and barely perceptible. I must say the quality of the juice is really high across the range, but this is my standout. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
The negative comments on here are often focused on something I love about it, such as the way it evokes fresh laundry or soap. It's not any old laundry or soap, it's that breathtakingly fresh waft you get for a split second that you wish could last, and now it can, all day in fact. Or the strong blast of aldehydes in the opening... it's spellbinding, albeit not unique (MFK has several variations on this theme with negligible differences). It's a paradox, as it's the least challenging fragrance in my collection, but manages to be magical to my nose, and is more than the sum of its notes. It is very, very strong, which I itself can be a challenge. I find it charming, effervescent and flirtatious, but with a sharp edge, an ever so subtle metallic sheen that makes all the difference. The drydown is the best part by far and away. Update - wait for super hot weather, then let it thrive ;) Another update - I've worn this hundreds of times now, and it's truly underrated in my opinion. The only difficulty is the strength. It's nuclear and you have to be careful. But in the summer it becomes my signature for days on end whenever the heat and humidity stop me wearing my usual heavy, oudy, ambery cloaks. There is a woody amber scratch underneath, as with most MFK freshies, but it's only perceptible when you shove your nose right in, and it doesn't stop me loving it. The jasmine is just indolic enough to make it smelling, and this with the exquisite bergamot note puts this in a league of its own for the genre.
Ombré Leather by Tom Ford opens with a burst of clean black leather and jasmine, before quickly developing a heart of leathery cardamom. The jasmine dances with these darker notes to brighten the scent profile and smooth it out. I find the dry down develops quite quickly into an amber-patchouli base, with the black leather and jasmine remaining a reliable constant. It takes me to a place reminiscent of sitting in the rich leather seats of a brand new Jaguar, and will have you feeling powerful and confident all day long with fantastic projection and longevity. I’m not sure why this is marketed as unisex as this is pure masculinity in a bottle. Overall this is a fantastic leather fragrance that takes a fresher, cleaner approach than your typical leather scent. I cannot stand Tuscan Leather and for me this is the more refined and mass appealing option.
Listen everyone!!!, don't believe the other bullst reviews on here. This sh*t is 🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢. Fecal, animalic animal poop is what this smells like. All the talk about warm, creamy, sensual, nutty etc etc....GET THE FK OUTTA HERE KMT!!. Y'all need to get your nostrils examined. Worst blInd buy EVER!!!!
Once you smell the cat piss, you can never unsmell the cat piss. Specifically it's fresh cat piss on cat litter, plus some old forgotten cat piss behind the sofa. It's like sipping warm Ribena in a childhood friend's home where they have stopped noticing the stench of cat piss... very evocative of my 80s childhood. This is a ghastly mistake, I never want to smell it again. Kudos to the balls of the person who decided to call this "on a date", I've had a good ten minutes laughing at that.
This is the final one of the extraits I've tried and I kinda knew what to expect given how the other ones played out. I think Amaouge have been clever in the fact that they've basically given the people what they want, more of the same, but 'stronger' (whatever that means to you?) I was skeptical about these, I felt it represented something of a lack of ideas from Amouage, but I think Salmon has done this for the fans, (and the board ;) of which Reflection Man has many. This was one of the oldskool Amouages in those really middle eastern looking flacons, it's come a long way to this iteration and been wildly popular on the way. I always considered Reflection Man (the edp concentration) to be a beautiful and well executed fougere type fragrance, with smatterings of stuff which made it superior to things with which it was often compared, Le Male, Versace Dreamer, Sartorial etc....etc... Reflection Man was in more of an elite category with Invasion Barbare, Fougere Royale and later the Tom Ford Fougeres. However, I felt as though they all offered something of a standout quality aside from the basic fougere structure, be it the herbal aspects of Invasion barbare and the big patchouli element in both the TF and Houbigant. I think I know what the unique aspects of Reflection are now, especially in this version, this is more tonka/coumarin, vanillic warmth, some extra magic of resin white florals and iris, Iris features in this perfume more than I remember and it's a very modern, smooth iris in the vein of Prada/Andrier giving it a subtlety and chicness. This heavier concentration takes that to the pinnacle, making for a bolder, even warmer experience and probably magnifying the things which where a bit too subtle in the original. I'm wearing it today and I suspected all that coumarin warmth would start to drag and if I wear this on my arm and keep stiffing it's majestic opening soon retreats to something I find a bit cloying and then after a few hours go back to loving again. However, when I actually wear it on skin, during the day, it doesn't do that, it's just an inherently wearable and beautiful experience, to be honest it's been that long since I tried the original, I don't know whether the same could be said of that, for about half the money. That's the toss up though isn't it? I'd say from memory though this 45 version is almost certainly better and more appealing to me, as the other three I've tried have been I don't see why this one wouldn't be, so if you can splash the big bucks on this I can pretty much guarantee you won't be disappointed.
This gives me the same delicious, rich lavender fougère vibes as TF Beau de Jour, and on other days I get more of a Costa Azzurra Parfum vibe without the strong lemon. I'm not getting a lot of oud or grapefruit, and I do think it's misnamed, but so are 99% of the other perfumes I have, in my opinion. I love this, and it's amazingly cheap. Update: this is not oud, it's spicy lavender and sandlewood, in the same vein as Hayat and Papilefiko. It's a banging scent for very very cheap (40 euros from discounters) so save your money and get this instead, it doesn't disappoint!
Stunningly beautiful, powerful yet restrained and elegant, simple notes create an air (pun intended) of intrigue. It's more oudy than Silk Mood, although I suspect it's more benzoin than oud, which is fine by me. I ordered this because the Silk Mood Extrait was unavailable in the smaller formats, but I'm gobsmacked by how much I love this, I'm addicted already!
An obnoxiously strong perfume which screams at everyone "smell how opulent I am, I need you to smell how opulent I am". I've owned it for a while, and although initially I was bowled over by its beauty, I have come to find it unwearable and quite repellant. I'm all for strong, challenging fragrances, but I think what bothers me so much about this is precisely that the scent isn't challenging at all, it's just so frigging strong it's impossible to manage it, and it's not pleasant at all. It's OK like 24 hours later but what good is that? Needless to say there's no oud here, just some vague woody, sweet, slightly resinous base notes. At best it's a saffron rose combo and at worst a cloying, sickly spicy rose vanilla fug. The more perfumes I experience, the more I can't help seeing MFK as an expensive brand for show-offs who know nothing about perfumery, although I feel it remiss not to say that Kurkdjian himself is a great perfumer, but within the umbrella of his own brand there's not a lot to love. The best offerings in my opinion are 724 and Grand Soir, but that's at a push, and they're certainly not worth the extortionate price with so many alternatives available for less.
Oud for greatness and Baccarat 540 mix with an HEAVY ANIMALIC presence up top. First 20mins was disgusting to me then after a while the animalicness started to fade and it became very nice. Very ofg/br540 scent. Longevity is phenomenal so DO NOT overspray!!. Well past the 12 hour mark!!. Huge sillage. Can be headache inducing.
A noxious, cheesey opening gives way to a beautifully blended saffron-forward oud, lovely (after 5 minutes). Sadly I can't wear saffron-forward fragrances as the association is too food-like for my nose.
Like a William Morris jungle wallpaper that has an added scratch-n-sniff element. An exagerrated, dense, almost psychedelic rendition of nature which opens slightly acerbic, but is totally unique and addictive. It makes me feel youthful and fun, without it being an immature scent. Possibly the greenest perfume I've smelt, alongside Eau de Campagne.
It smells like the epitome of designer men's fragrance. It won't offend, but it won't excite either, or perhaps it will, but only noses who don't look mucj further than the likes of Sauvage. However, I'm discovering it makes a great base for layering. So far, 2 parts this to 1 part Lost Cherry is delightful (it's like Cherry Cola), and has made me want to layer it below other things...
Well, It's a real collection of perfumer talent on this project hey? Are we to expect something monumental, or a too many cooks scenario? I mean the whole name, marketing and the bottle aside, I really wanted this to smell amazing, if only to restore a bit of faith in designer perfumes and obtuse, style over substance releases. I have to say this perfume is not for me, but it did illicit a very genuine and very human response... laughter. That's not me snobbishly laughing AT it either but more the fruity accord in the opening being so outrageous that it made me chuckle in a kind of joyous celebration of kitsch perfumery. I honestly don't know what is louder? the sequin dressed, cybernetic lady bottle (Daft punk if they ever dabbled in drag?) or the sticky, 'from concentrate' fruity accord which does in fact evoke mango, certainly the texture and colour but it's even sweeter than that, passion fruit and that banana edge of the jasmine heart intermingling to create a really impressive but ultra femme (bot) vibe. Sadly I don't really like it much after the fruitiness...I'd say calms, rather than goes away, but only because it becomes a much more functional, fruity floral perfume, which is not something I'd want to wear.
Opens well, then within 5 minutes I get the same synthetic banana smell I get from other Hermès perfumes. Lesson learnt.
I read about this perfume the other year when it came out and was fascinated by the inspiration. I wasn't familiar with Wilke's work previously but I appreciate perfume which is so carefully considered and is more meaningful to it's creator. I think the power of an artists work is not merely to be admired or consumed but to inspire other artists to create and that's exactly what we have here in a naturally adjacent step to Carter's first works which were deeply personal but very much about him and his own experiences. Intra Venus has at it's heart a really lovely Hyacinth accord, Identifiable as such but somehow prettier than the very lush, wet, green association I have with Hyacinths. Unfortunately my mum keeps them in the front porch of her house ALL year round because she has an issue with her drains (not a euphemism, it's my mum, Behave!!!) and using the pungency of hyacinths to mask it, yeah so I have a grim association with a mild whiff of human excretor. haha... So let's go back to the opening shall we because it's explosive and interesting green and herbal, bright, tingling the nostils could this be the effects of wasabi? It doesn't smell like horseradish thankfully but the tingle and freshness is akin to ginger or something? Effects wise at least. I'm refraining from trying to explain this perfume in terms of it's conceptual inspiration (pretty thoroughly explained in the notes from the brand) and once dried down it takes on a lived in skin closeness, a bodily feel to something lurking in the base, a saliva on skin quality, juxtaposed against the florals which possess a more wafting and aerated quality, much like the breezy effect of flowers headspace many perfumers try to achieve. Intra Venus achieves that, somehow burrowing IN (as the name would suggest) but billowing OUT just as much. I'm not sure I'd wear this or buy a bottle simply because it's a bit too artistic for me, (although the soft drydown is sweeter and muskier than expected so perhaps I would like to wear it?) but that is the only reason. I find Intra Venus to be an olfactory triumph and genuinely think that Carter is a natural talent who needs to be treasured. Not only his fantastic work for his own project chronotope but other brands I had the pleasure of smelling recently, very much a different tone, but still the same creativity on show. Bravo!
So I knew nothing of this brand, having sampled them I feel the vibe they were going for has been clearly conveyed. I scrolled down here and saw the notes for the first time and yeah....This is definitely tangerines and grapes for sure but in a public convenience (a clean one, I mean it in a good way believe it or not) it has a mild sterility about it, a kind of stark artiness to it, with a whiff of urinal cake behind all that fruitiness. It's good I kinda get the beeswax too a subtle, musky, warmth to what is quite a cool (temperature wise) fragrance. Intriguing. Italian brands/perfumers approach to fragrance is fascinating, especially artisans and how they differ from French style for example. These aren't exactly stuff you've not smelled before, but they are different enough to warrant attention. I get why someone might compare this to bloody wood by Les Liquides Imaginaires in terms of STYLE and (perhaps the temperature I mentioned earlier?) this wine/grape association but seriously it smells NOTHING like it as far as the actual notes and accords, they are miles apart.
Just as another commenter pointed out below, this smells like pickle juice.. It started promising, green, felt the peppery spice a bit then it just turned sour on my skin.. Cannot honestly see anything more accurate to describe this than pickle juice. I wanted to give this a fair test but after a couple hours I just had to scrub it off. Wouldn’t consider this a safe blind buy, do yourself a favour and try before you buy !
Cheap, zero performance. Pleasant enough scent but lasts 2 seconds with no projection.
This is absolutely banging!!!!!, oh my goodness🤤🤤😍
{Full disclosure: Eugen is someone I consider a friend (not a 'brand' or 'collaborator' I'm certainly not being paid for this review) and very kindly sent me a bottle of this as he sites me as being instrumental in the initial phase of development of his brand and ideas about which direction to go in. (not that I was aware that's what was happening like) I'm extremely humbled that he gives me that credit, and I'm so glad things worked out so well ,and he got the quality and artistic integrity he was looking for, which is all down to Eugen's vision and I never doubted him for a minute!} Oh well.... Eugen's olfactory triptych is complete and what a way to finish in style. As much as I love Belle Ame with it's gorgeously opulent yet understated orris and tonka themes, and La douleur exquise exploded onto the scene with it's tearjerking emotional inspiration was a seemingly quite a mellow, rose/patchouli affair but actually is far more mysterious and spicy on skin & requires much more wear and thought than you initially think. However Des Cendres has to be my favourite of the lot, but what a bunch and what a set of bases to cover with such aplomb. Then we come to Des Cendres (ashes) and it's a really interesting contrast of the green and vibrant, the trad-masculine and the ashen, dry, leathered or smoky. I think to say this is a 'smoky' fragrance is overstating the smoke, and perhaps misleading, really doing something of a disservice to the cleverness with which the 'ashes' are deployed in this composition. The leathery accord is spiced slightly (to me it felt like coriander or celery seed even beloved caraway/cumin) and that creates this very 'grey' ashen effect a bit more cade, as apposed to the 'black' ash of a birch tar. (actually listed here though) So... The green element is not atypical of galbunum but it's definitely resinous, and I was surprised how different it was to Bel Repiro by Chanel (a perfume I know is one of Eugen's favourites) and Green Spell by Eris parfums (another green perfume from Antoine Lie) something I wouldn't have been a fool to expect. However, this is much more akin to 80's powerhouse men's perfumes and really brings to mind the potent, aromatic themes of Polo green, but it's like the best possible Polo green you could imagine, crafted with the finest materials. (I just noticed someone has compared it to Aliage by Estee Lauder which is a decent comparison too) The opening is actually VERY FLORAL for me, and I was a little perplexed when I started seeing reviews and chatter and no body mentioned just how floral this is throughout, but at the start especially. It's very wet, lush, but breezy I was thinking of gardenia, or cyclamen and of course this mildly indolic, waxen jasmine. This turned out to be tuberose! I'd be fascinated to smell the 'grand cru' used in this perfume because it has a very special quality, and that's one thing I love about tuberose, just how different it can be from origin/extraction method etc.... I actually got a friend to try this when it arrived and he ADORED the thing, saying he was immediately transported to a very posh, gentlemen's club bathroom, with green tiles, steam and shave soap, the slightly animalic whiff of sport sweat. And now to the bitter mossy and animalic/musky elements of the base which give that leather accord masses and masses of character IMHO. It was hyraceum, a unusual but not unexpected addition to this perfume and it forms a long, long lasting base which sticks to your skin with just the right amount of funk, and not a reliance on woody ambers or ambroxan or anything similar as a dominant single bit of trickery. This is a very naturalistic and well blended accord that isn't too stinky or anything but just hums away after a good 12 hours of everything else, the bitter woodiness, the florals etc....I genuine think this is a sublime fragrance and probably the best vision Lie has given us of what can be achieved when great ideas, fantastic materials and a respect for it's forbears, come together to create a respectful but modern hommage to man pong of days gone by. It's astoundingly good!
A magical journey which travels far and wide, as if Shalimar fled the gilded cage and took to the high seas. This is the only perfume I've experienced that gets stronger over time, before petering out after very many hours (maybe even days). The magic lies in the sparkling blend, but extends beyond that. What seems a mild, unassuming opening evolves into a dazzling aura of charm and beauty like only Guerlain can do. It's powerful yet unoffensive, esoteric yet accessible. By far the best in the Absolus line in my opinion, although I do love most of them.
This is extremely pretty, but it's all honeysuckle and gardenia by way of syringa with zero magnolia. A bit ubiquitous, but good value.