Xerjoff really do love putting out these sickly, tropical, caramel, fruit explosion nightmares don't they! It's so obnoxious, I struggle to think of any context where anyone would want to smell like this.
The sprayer is top notch, mercifully, meaning you can apply carefully and enjoy the wonderful BBQ wafts and smokey complexity. Smells unlike anything else (I haven't smelled any other Beauforts). Everything everyone says here is true, but I love it. Update: I've smelled loads of other Beauforts now, and many of them have this same smoke overload going on, but I think this is the least harsh of the smokey range.
Sundrunk is a sickly and aggravating fragrance that doesn’t smell enjoyable in the slightest. This whole scent is just a messy, abrasive, synthetic and clinical concoction of notes that should work together but simply don’t. The orange and rhubarb create this bitter-sweet, juicy and rindy fruity aspect, which is then combined with the other florals. For such a simple note breakdown you wouldn’t think much could go wrong but this just smells awful on the skin for the first hour or so. Once it settles it becomes a very basic, boring and forgettable duo of orange and rose water. Very soft with poor performance. I really don’t like this fragrance, but I’m interested to try more from the house of Imaginary Authors.
Civet is one of my all time favourite notes so I was expecting big things from this, and while I admit it does smell nice, it fell short of what I was expecting. Zoologist Civet is an homage to a classical Chypre with warm spicy elements. There’s juicy, bright floral elements from tuberose, ylang, carnation and frangipani. There’s also a warm, spicy bitterness from coffee, incense, orange and an array of spices. These two contrasts are supported by a smooth and creamy oakmoss. I will admit that this portion of the scent smells great, it’s the civet itself that lets it down. Of course civet has to be recreated synthetically, but the civet in here smells too obviously synthetic. I own some fantastic civets such as Diaghilev and Bal à Versailles, but this just doesn’t compare in any way - it just smells so much cheaper and lower in quality. Overall it’s a pleasant scent to wear but I wouldn’t buy a bottle.
Patchouly is one of the most patchouli-dominant scents I’ve tried if I’m honest. The patchouli in here is very dark, earthy and masculine with subtle green nuances. It’s got a slightly damp and vegetal vibe to it which is definitely captivating and unique, but not very mass appealing - it’s definitely a scent to stand out with. There’s a soft, smooth and sweet woody amber in the background which provides some warmth, whilst a dry and smoky incense contrast this brutally. To me, this scent conjures imagery of a burning, smouldering wood cabin hidden deep in a dense woodland, with a storm brewing in the distance starting to dampen the black soil beneath your feet. Overall this scent is very impressive. As usual with Profumum Roma the quality is fantastic and the scent boasts an impressively high oil concentration. Whilst I can appreciate the skill behind this scent, unfortunately the patchouli is simply too intense for me so this isn’t something I would wear for myself.
Chypre-Siam is an absolutely delightful creation and a must have for those who enjoy vintage-style chypres. The opening is dominated by a bitter, rindy and refreshing kaffir lime with aromatic touches of basil. Soft touches of slightly powdery, delicate jasmine and ylang begin to shine not long after which smooths out the overall scent profile. The star of the show is the oakmoss, which harks back to the bygone glory days of chypre perfumes. This thick, creamy mossy perfection elevates this scent to another level, taking you back to a more classical place in time. Subtle hints of civet and warm spices provide an addicting sharp bitterness in the background, secondary to the oakmoss. This fragrance is truly fantastic, the use of oakmoss reminds me heavily of my vintage Miss Dior which I absolutely adore. The quality is fantastic, this is an absolute must have for those passionate about vintage-style perfumery.
Santal Complet is one of the more hyped releases from Fragrance du Bois, but I’m not really sure why. It opens with a surprisingly tropical and refreshing duo of nutty coconut and vibrant lemon, with a gentle touch of black pepper. Soon after spraying, this coconut starts to blend into the background whilst a dry, creamy Sandalwood and sweet vanilla begin to take over. From here on out the scent profile stays pretty linear and doesn’t progress much further, it’s simply a smooth vanillic Sandalwood with touches of coconut. I admit it smells very pleasant and I can imagine would get good reactions from others, but overall the scent comes across quite boring to me, like it’s missing something. I think there are so many masterful creations from Fragrance du Bois whilst this one seemed to be made just to appeal to the masses.
Messe de Minuit is the culmination of warm, smoky amber and citrus. It opens with a juicy and refreshing burst of sharp, rindy orange, lemon and bergamot followed by a thick dose of myrrh. The myrrh here is very dry and dusty, heavy and almost chewy but overall smells high quality and unique. The citric side of the scent is intensified by a zesty note of bitter citron, whilst the warming aspects are elevated through a spicy cinnamon and leathery labdanum. The smoky resinous vibe from the myrrh is then magnified by a dry incense and earthy patchouli. You’ve got 3 separate scent profiles all vying for attention in this fragrance - rindy citrus, smoky myrrh and warming amber are all present and powerful and yet it does seem to work. This is fragrance embodies old, wooden antiques and archaic churchy incense in a brilliant way.
It indeed opens like an extreme version of the original, but within 10 minutes max it's practically indistinguishable. So it's a good perfume but redundant.
Stunned is an absolutely diabolical excuse for a fragrance. Straight away you’re blasted by this badly composed mix of myrrh, clove and nutmeg which is warm and spicy in a way but that cannabis note just takes everything into a harsh, synthetic and medicinal direction. There’s a strong sense of vanilla in here, which is very sweet but also smells very cheap. Other than that there’s not much going on in this scent, it’s very abrasive and rough around the edges - certain to give you a headache very easily. I really don’t understand this scent. The quality of materials comes across so obviously cheap and lazy, it’s like there was no thought put into the overall scent profile. A definite hate for me which doesn’t come round often for me.
Chinatown is a pure and sophisticated concoction celebrating the innocent beauty of Chinese florals. A fantasy note of peach blossom leads the way upon initial spray, which is soft and creamy with a surge of soapiness. This clean, indolic white floral effect is supercharged by the addition of peony and orange blossom. From here, tuberose provides a thick and waxy effect whilst gardenia offers gentle green touches in the background. The base consists of a smooth, creamy and sweet woodiness from vanilla and sandalwood, whilst cardamom adds a warming fuzzy effect. I’m not a huge fan of fragrances which focus so much on white florals, but if I was then this would definitely be a must have. The quality is fantastic and the overall scent is very enjoyable, just personally not my style.
Essence Rare surprised me, simply because it doesn’t feel like Roja’s usual style. It opens up with a juicy cocktail of sharp, tangy, rindy fruits including blood orange, raspberry and blackcurrant. Usually when Roja utilises fruits they come across very gentle, powdery and soft whereas this scent is very bold and zesty. A floral heart provides some powdery touches to the fruits but mostly paved way for a base of green, vegetal nuances mainly coming from the palma rosa and patchouli. There’s a hint of creaminess from the oakmoss and Sandalwood which helps to smooth everything out but this is very subtle. I think Essence Rare is a fantastic scent if you love very juicy, tangy and rindy fruit notes in your perfume. Personally this is not a love for me but I can see the appeal, there are many others from the Pierre de Velay line I would rather own.
Taif Aoud is one of the best interpretations of Taif Rose I’ve come across so far. It opens with a surprisingly refreshing and vibrant duo of airy aldehydes and tangy bergamot, alongside gents whispers of clean jasmine and soft ylang. From here the stars of the show, that incredible Taif Rose backed up by geranium, begin to take over and draw you in deeper. After a couple of minutes, a green spiciness begins to awaken in the background. The warming spicy aroma of clove alongside a bitter, earthy touch of cassis and patchouli is delightfully enveloping and pairs beautifully with the airy rose. There is a touch of woody incense in the dry down but I don’t actually detect any hint of the original Aoud scent profile. This is actually one of my favourite rose fragrances, it’s not so oud heavy as the name might suggest and it doesn’t seem to tie in to the rest of the Aoud line in uniform but nevertheless it smells fantastic. It’s like standing in a hot, dry desert with the sun beaming down on you, whilst gentle wafts of majestic Taif Rose bellow through the dusty desert air. Magnificent.
An absolutely vile mess, and an insult to my love of perfumery. It's very much a Sauvage type of affair, which means you have a horrible, obnoxious ambrox base with some screaming, choke hazard top notes, in this case a saccharine deluge of fruit. Make no mistake, to wear this around other living creatures is an act of chemical warfare. Fucking ghastly, just like Erba Pura.
Myrrhe & Encens does exactly what it says on the bottle, and really lives up to its name. Initially it opens with a contrasting combination of bitter citrus and spicy cinnamon which is a little bit off putting in my opinion, but after less than a minute it starts to transform for the better. This scent is an overdose of myrrh. It celebrates this enchanting resin in all of its beautiful facets. The myrrh here is dark and smoky, dry and thick with an almost chewy element to it. The incense elevates this smokiness in the best way possible - it’s not old and churchy, but dry and subtle as it should be. Combine this with a fantastically earthy patchouli and you’re left with something gorgeously smooth and masculine. I am hugely surprised by this fragrance. It was gifted to me and I had never heard of this house before but I’m very keen to explore more of their offerings after this. The quality is fantastic for the price, it smells incredibly natural and well blended to the point that this could easily be bottled as a ‘luxury fragrance’.
Parfum de La Nuit 1 - ‘The Predator’ This is the epitome of dark amber - it’s rich and sultry, bold and uncompromising without losing any signature warmth and allure. This scent revolves around a classic amber accord composed of vanilla, benzoin and labdanum at its core. The resinous element coming from benzoin is elevated significantly by styrax, which is thick, chewy and almost gummy which I find to be absolutely addictive. Despite the warming Amber at the heart of this scent, it has a darker element in two different forms. Firstly is the animalic: civet and castoreum of the highest quality are joined by heavy doses of tolu balsam which ensue a dark, mysterious and almost smoky energy. Secondly is the spicy: a strong dose of clove is joined by earthy patchouli and woods to create a dry and masculine base like no other. The overall scent profile is very mature and incredibly unique, it takes confidence to pull this off. In a strange way, I get a slight cola vibe lingering in the distance; rather than being fizzy and sharp like Enigma, it’s very soft, dry and smooth almost like flat cola (in a good way!). I can see why this scent is nicknamed ‘The Predator’ - it truly embodies the very essence of someone who knows exactly what they want, and knows they can get it. With this scent you don’t allure others towards you, you take charge and initiate the chase of attraction yourself.
Misia is one of the best violet scents I’ve ever had the pleasure of smelling. Upon first spray it’s like being covered with Parma Violet sweets - the violet is front and centre with its strong powdery elements, with a juiciness coming from litchi and a touch of airy aldehydes. As it begins to settle on the skin, a dry and fluffy note of peach idles in the background as rose begins to shine ever so gently. The core of this fragrance revolves around the most effervescent violet and orris combination. The delicate powderiness of the violet compliments the smooth buttery elements of the orris, with hidden touches of leather in the base. Misia is pure makeup powder vibes to the max, it’s absolutely enchanting in every single way. It’s probably my favourite violet note I’ve ever smelled, second only to Roja Great Britain which takes the cake for me personally. This is my absolute favourite fragrance from Chanel by far, and even as a man I adore wearing this.
Great Britain is the most opulent and regal olfactory experience I’ve ever come across. It opens fairly bright initially with subtle hints of citrus and sage, before a delicately powdery touch of mesmerising violet tingles at the senses. Rose and Jasmine are present, providing an eloquently airy and vibrant floral aspect to the scent, however this is short lived to my nose. The star of the show here, on the one hand, is the most magnificent leather accord I’ve had the pleasure of putting my nose on. Comprised primarily of labdanum, it’s beautifully smooth and refined - like the soft brown leather inside the Houses of Parliament. On the other hand you’ve got this incredibly addictive orris note which is buttery smooth and powdery, transcending the scent into something otherworldly yet comforting. In the base there’s a general atmosphere of fluffy, musky, creamy elements likely coming from the oakmoss, ambrette and carrot seeds which elevates the powderiness even further. I adore this perfume with all my heart, it is truly the best scent I’ve ever smelled in my life and I’m incredibly grateful to finally own a bottle. This is by far the most incredible take on a leathery Chypre and whilst it does bear similarity to Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, I find Great Britain to have exceptional depth and quality beyond what Chanel can provide. This is a true work of art and a modern classic.
Slightly fishy, mimosa skank-fest. It's wondeful but I can't imagine wearing it. The Lover's Tale is the limit for me with the Bianchi animalic fug. I'm glad to have a decent to wear to bed though.
This is a rich and intoxicating blast of real-smelling ambergris with a nutty, warm musk envelope. It's absolutely exquisite, and while it smells familiar, it doesn't resemble any other perfume I've ever discovered. It's very, very powerful and longlasting but can be used cautiously to create a discreet, visceral allure. I'm sure there's something synthetic underneath it all, but it never takes hold, and is only really noticeable to me on card, whereas on my skin the sweet, earthy, natural ambergris wins through. After a long while, I start to notice the vetiver a bit more, but it still emits rich ambery waves. It's a dynamic perfume, always reminding me of its complexity and quality, but it never seems screechy or scratchy. This is a firm love, and now I've found it for a real steal online, I'm left craving the divine Cuir Curcuma....
I do like this, but it does smell like it could be a flanker from the Homme Idéal line by Guerlain. L'Homme Idéal Fumeur,?
If Francesca Bianchi were tasked with remaking Le Male Le Parfum, this is exactly what it would smell like. It has the same notes in the same proportions, but way better quality ingredients providing a sprinkling of niche magic. Where the difference is most stark is with the iris. What seems designery and synthetic in LMLP is dusty, rooty and natural smelling here, and lends a leathery base to the drydown. I'm so familiar with Le Male that I can't get too excited about this, but that doesn't mean it's a bad perfume. But for the price, I want something that brings tears to my eyes.
STÉPHANE HUMBERT LUCAS Ô’Hira (2014) Totally unisex One of the best Amber scents with very unique SHL’s dna - this is a little bit balsamic, warming and calming, even spiritual. It’s a little bit smoky and earthy and the whole composition feels like it’s wrapped in heavenly honeyed veil. What makes this different from other SHL’s spiritual creations is the extraordinary warmth. Many of his scents has colder tones compared to this one despite of balsams and resins. I would describe for example Black Gemstone and Mortal Skin with a silvery spark and O’Hira has definitely a golden shine over it. This has as well an animalic side which some people may find intimidating. I think it just makes this more gorgeous. What comes to the notes it’s not easy to find some exact list and in many sources has been mentioned only “Fossilized layered Amber”. This is anyway quite complex scent with many different nuances and that “Layered Amber” hides inside a hefty dose of different notes. Those are changing along with the weather and warmth of the skin. •Gently leathery undertone from Labdanum •Woody notes •Pyrogenic Styrax / Tolu Balsam, dark and rich balsams and resins here are undeniable bringing that extraordinary warmth together with •Cinnamon •Tonka bean and torrefied Vanilla •Musk which turns into a little bit dirty direction (it’s subtle though) so there might be Castoreum as well. This is evocative, captivating and mesmerizing scent with oriental style. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Reptile is a really interesting twist on a few ideas I like from (largely) masculine perfumes gone by. I think it has more than passing nods to Balmain (that peppery one), Gucci PH1, some misremembered YSL Prive line one perhaps... (not doing very well here am I?) Hermes...maybe Equipage X Vetiver (less so the...) Tonka? Then something like Lancome Homme also? It has a mossy, earthy, scratch of vetiver cocooned in a hazy ginger and cardamom/nutmeg, pepper spice, evoking the incense smoke and supple leather as well but with the lightly soft base underneath which all these perfumes have giving that gentile, chanel/YSL/Guerlain chic. It's lovely. Has a bit more bite and almost verging on something edgy but not to the point of Nightclubbing which I still think is the most standout thing from the brand. The thing about this more recent rebooted Celine line is that they don't really standout massively from a creative point of view, other than being very well executed and such, and there will even be those folks who don't feel Repile has enough impact, or original ideas but I'm wearing it today and while it's not exactly a blissful, WOW, I need this in my life' experience, it's a very reassuring, firm hand on the perfumery tiller, type perfume, I'm enjoying it and it's impeccably conceieved and blended for me.
