Skinny Dip (Top): birch leaf, vegetal accord, black currant, mineral accord and rhubarb. Sauna Session (Base): warm woods, musk, smoke, leather and steam Sometimes the descriptions of fragrances by the houses themselves are not entirely realistic and the impression they give is wrong. That is not the case with this fragrance. “Running naked through newly cut grass, surrounded by silver birch trees. Jumping into the cold, black lake without a moment’s hesitation. A delicious shock of the freezing water. Goosebumps all over. Rushing back into the steaming heat of the sauna. Fire and smoke. Fresh birch leaves sizzle on the hot stones. The scent of warm skin. Oh, the nostalgia!” (From the brands website) I am Finnish and spent my childhood living in the countryside, by the sea, in Finland, and that is exactly the image that comes to mind when I smell it, although a lake is a sea to me. I can smell large leaves on birch trees and birch branches in the sauna bring a soothing aroma as the liquid evaporates from them. Blackcurrant bushes and rhubarb grew in my grandparents' garden and were eaten straight from the bush. Those aromas here are very realistic and delicious. As the scent develops, it transforms into the atmosphere of a wood-burning sauna: gentle steam and smoke from burning wood, salty skin after swimming. The scent is unique and intense, but at the same time surprisingly easy and beautiful. The smoke is something that is not familiar from any previous scent, although I love that note. The whole composition is special and makes you want to smell your wrist again and again. The scent is addictive and I would say sensual in its own way. I recommend Thousand Lakes to anyone who has memories of this all, and if you don't, you can use this splendid scent to try to sense a piece of beautiful Finnish tradition. This is all this in the same time: unique, artistic, pleasant, interesting and above all the idea of scent is brilliant. Thank you for reading, I hope you liked my review. I would appreciate if you follow my IG: @ninamariah_perfumes It gives me a lot of motivation to write more. 🤗
Exquisite Oud, benzoin and vanilla makes for a big balsamic if rather simple ambery beauty. And let’s please get the perfumer correct. So many referencing JC, however this is by the masterful Sophie Labbé!!
First I want to mention: personally I don't like dense leather scents anymore but my husband does. I have an endless experience of deep, dark leather scents and earlier I even loved to wear them myself, for example "Cuoium | Orto Parisi" used to be the one of my favourites. The name of a fragrance sometimes guides first impressions, and that was the case with this fragrance. My initial impression of Leatherize was "wow, what a strong dirty leather". Anyway after smelling it more closely, the leather is not the most authentic one and I don't even get that unpleasant feeling which I used to nowadays when smelling some dark (pungent or smooth, it doesn't matter) leather scent. The note which plays a major role is Cade oil (Juniper): It's extremely tar-like and smoky quality is confusingly natural, intoxicating, and reminds me of a sticky, melted tar pastille candy. At the same time, the middle notes bring an intense earthy nuance to the fragrance, which strengthens the already tarry scent. I don't find any gourmand nuances here because of Butterscotch but it's possible that it makes this concoction easier. Somewhere behind all this, there is surprisingly soft, tender and smooth leather, not the dirty leather saddle which was an immediate association. As the scent develops it becomes more and more pleasant and easy going, but it doesn't change much otherwise. It doesn't have any distinct phases, as the middle and base notes are very clearly present from the start. Only the Iris and Castoreum develop slowly, creating a powdery and intense, yet refined and sensual animalic note to the aroma. It is very, very innocent though. If thinking the quality of the scent, I would say it's good. It's nicely blended and it smells completely natural. Anyway it's nothing groundbreaking nor ingenious but I can't name anything completely similar either. My husband fell in love with it but to my nose it's still too leathery and above all too tarry. I don't necessarily want him to smell like this, even though the smell is not unpleasant in any way. TOP Leather, Cistus Cubeb, Butterscotch HEART Cypriol, Saffron, Iris pallida BASE Cade juniper, Myrrh, Castoreum Thank you for reading, I hope you liked my review. I would appreciate if you follow my IG: @ninamariah_perfumes It gives me a lot of motivation to write more. 🤗
Short review in based of my sample: This is quite classy and sophisticated yet cozy and resinous blend with Vanilla like aroma from Benzoin. The style resembles quite much first Van Cleef & Arpels’ compositions with a delicate Vanilla in them but this one is heavier because of many reasons. As the scent develops the differences are more pronounced and I just feel that I have smelled this kind of resinous Vanilla like scent dozens of times. Aroma of Vanilla comes from Benzoin so it’s not as sweet nor “delicious” here as in VCAs (in VC&A it’s not edible either). Ambery notes and Myrrh makes this much deeper and honey makes it a bit sticky. it’s not as refined nor luxurious as VCAs. Even if this differs more and more during the time it’s on my skin and this is not something which I would wear frequently and as an easy reach like my VCAs, I still I get the similar feeling. It’s strange since the compositions are totally different. Yet, I was surprised: there is not any synthetic nuances here and the scent is pleasant - worth to try if you like resinous blends with reminiscent of Vanilla. This is not leathery at all imo. Some scents which are in the same category but not the same though: "Material | Amouage" "Grand Soir | Maison Francis Kurkdjian" "Lune Féline (Eau de Parfum) | Atelier des Ors" Thank you for reading, I hope you liked my review. I would appreciate if you follow my IG: @ninamariah_perfumes It gives me a lot of motivation to write more. 🤗
DSH Perfumes Manhattan is firelight through a vintage lens – all warmth and no flame, the way old films captured hearths in silver-screen shadows. The glow feels richer than memory, grounded in something earthy and lush, a cherry left at the bottom of a glass, soaked in honeyed spirits, plummy with promise. A bitter note cuts through the sweetness, a tiny nibble under the gazes of those who love you, a warmth so enveloping and tender it breaks your heart just a little and brings tears to your eyes. You recognize it instantly: that feeling of safety and love that you can only experience now through the lens of nostalgia because you’ll never be that young or small or loved that way again.
The scent wraps around you like a childhood memory that softens into sadness when held too long. It’s the kind of velvet golden haze that catches in your throat now, because you know such perfect shelter can’t exist outside of memory, outside these few precious frames of black and white film where the firelight always burns just right, and everyone you’ve ever loved is still young and beautiful and waiting in the next room. This is a softly devastating scent, and one that requires emotional steadiness to wear – it has a way of dissolving the present and opening rooms in the memory where beloved ghosts forever wait patiently for you with open arms, where the little heart you long outgrew is forever full.
For years, I strongly disliked this fragrance—when tested on paper, it always reminded me of a citronella candle. However, a few weeks ago, I decided to give it another chance and picked up a sample. To my surprise, it transformed beautifully on the skin, shedding the citronella-like note entirely. Instead, I was greeted with an unexpectedly pleasant bright, green, refreshingly fresh fragrance.
This experience taught me the importance of testing fragrances on the skin, as they can evolve unexpectedly and delightfully. I highly recommend sampling this scent before committing to a purchase. To provide some context, the shift between how this fragrance smells on paper versus the skin reminds me of Le Labo Santal 33. On paper, Santal 33 can have a peculiar dill pickle-like note, but it develops into something truly fantastic on the skin. Similarly, this fragrance might surprise you once it interacts with your skin's chemistry.
It's as complex as it is simple.
It's woody, aquatic, green, and very aromatic.
There's some sweetness and saltiness, but personally I would have preferred more of the salt note to cut through the intense aromatics.
A great summer scent, and one i consistently get asked about when wearing.
It starts off with a caramelised grapefruit blasting out. The sugared citrus has a dark smokiness from the oud and it is just divine.
The deliciousness wafts as I walk and it’s a lovely reminder of how amazing the fragrance is.
The wood and sweet rose is lifted by the green, almost citrusy note from the geranium.
The smoke adds a soft dark blanket round it all.
I want to say there's some leather here, and maybe Iso E, which I think would fit with the scent's story below, adding a further woody, and slightly metallic twinge to it.
From Rook's website;
Top: Wood shavings, Wood smoke, Geranium
Middle: Rose Absolute
Base: Musk, Cedar, Smoke
When I was younger my grandparents lived in Acresford House in Ashby-de-la-Zouch. It was a large house and at times so cold we had to sleep under electric blankets. The bedrooms were referred to by colour, the purple room, the brown room etc. The downstairs was usually nice and warm thanks to the inglenook fireplace.
Behind the main hall was my grandad's workshop. It was adorned with wood and tools. At the centre was his lathe on which he would turn wood for chairs and tables. The air was filled with the scent of smoky wood shavings - a scent I hope you now recognise from your sample.
At the rear of the house was the pictured courtyard. My nan would tend to her flowers, now at the age of 102 with a bad hip - something she wishes she could still do. The scent of roses and geraniums filled the air. I also distinctly remember poppies growing next to the gate. You will now hopefully pick up the rose geranium at the heart of your sample.
These scents are so cemented in my memory that each time I spray Acresford Eau de Parfum, I will be transported back to those times
Amazing sweet plum with a slightly sharp vanilla even though it’s not an official note. Walks the line of being the perfect amount of sweetness while it gets more woody as it dries down. Probably the best release of 2024 for designers. Amazing for winter and fall
Love it
This is a nice spicy vanilla with Amber. I haven't smelled Grand Soir, so I cannot compare. I've gotten a few compliments when wearing Barakkat Ambre Eve.
Way to overpowering and strong. Do NOT wear this to the office. Actually don't wear this at all.
Highly likeable frangance, no abrasive to others
This is a fresh, aromatic fragrance with a hint of spice that captures the essence of freshness. It opens with a herbal burst of lavender, immediately evoking a clean and classic barbershop vibe. As the fragrance develops, black pepper and nutmeg add a warm, spicy touch, preventing it from being too linear or overly fresh. The dry-down is subtle and smooth, with woody and musky notes, making it feel natural and grounded rather than synthetic or overpowering. This is one of the best fresh lavender scents available. It's very versatile and smells great. It is not a crazy performer but it's performance is good for a freshie. This is one of my favorite spring and summer scents.
Blazing Mr. Sam is a luxurious fragrance from Penhaligon’s. It’s a warm, spicy, and slightly smoky scent that radiates confidence. The opening hits with a bold mix of cardamom and cinnamon, giving it an immediate spicy kick. As it settles, black pepper and saffron emerge, adding a rich depth. The dry-down is where cedarwood, vanilla, and tobacco create a warm, slightly sweet yet masculine finish with a hint of sensual smokiness. I have heard of bottles having poor performance, but my bottle lasts a good 5 hours!
Gentle Fluidity Silver definitely nails the category of name - it is both gentle and certainly connotes the idea of silver; clean, crisp, metallic and straightforward. It’s a nice fresh scent, with that recognisable synthetic cleanliness Kurkdjian likes to use so often. Juniper berries are the focal point here - they’re sweet and juicy, yet their dry and aromatic facets are highlighted by vague woods and a hint of spice. However, metallic musks and citruses liven things up a bit, giving you that feel of a refreshing gin and tonic. It’s a good fragrance, and I find myself enjoying it on my skin - it’s refreshing, simple and satisfying to wear. I’ll definitely enjoy using the remainder of my sample in the warmer weather, but I just can’t justify the price for such a simple scent profile.
Baccarat Rouge has become one of the most famous fragrances of all time, but I’m struggling to decide whether I understand why or not. It certainly encapsulates what was driving the market in the 2010s - clean, inoffensive scents which are above all, minimalist and unisex. This, to the mass market, is basically a license to print money, but for enthusiasts it seems to come across as boring and uninspired. Sweet, honeyed saffron and soapy white jasmine take centre stage among a concoction of clinically sanitised amberwoods, ambergris and white musks. It smells very clean, almost too clean - like a hospital. But it’s got the sugary sweetness to at least give it some substance, however still leaves me wanting more. I get why it’s popular, I just can’t feel that for myself. It’s not a bad scent, but in this day and age the countless clones of it will give you much better value for money. Of course it gets lots of positive attention if that’s all you want, but you’re unlikely to be remembered for a smell like this.
I’ve always been a big fan of Ganymede, I love it in fact, there’s something so undeniably addictive about it. With Ganymede Extrait I was hoping for a similar situation as B683 Extrait - an improvement elevated beyond imagination. Instead, I’m left with what is basically just the same old Ganymede with a slightly spicy twist. Don’t get me wrong, this doesn’t make it a bad fragrance - as I said I adore Ganymede, and so the fact that this retains the exact same core scent profile means it smells absolutely incredible. The only difference to my nose is that very subtle warm spicy, incense-y touch which is lovely, but not all that impressive - as B683 Extrait took on an almost entirely new scent profile. Overall, I think this is a fantastic smell, which is why I’ve rated it as a love because I truly have loved wearing my sample. But for the difference in price? You might as well save yourself a good chunk of money and just get the original Ganymede.
Ambre Sultan really is a fantastic reference Amber, for those that want to familiarise themselves with this fragrance family more, but it’s so much more than that. This is easily one of the best ambers on the market even today, which is seriously impressive given how cheap it can be found online. It takes Amber into a more aromatic direction than you might expect. The Amber accord itself is very rich - heaps of dry, thick resins and powdery woods resting on just a whisper of sweet, creamy vanilla. Before this gets too warm however, this dense aromatic herbaceous-ness comes into play which is utterly sublime; what smells like bay leaf which is both dry and green, leafy and stemmy which somehow complements the antagonist notes perfectly. I adore this fragrance, it’s easily one of the best from Serge Lutens and for the price it would be insane not to own it. I’m going to thoroughly enjoy wearing this sample and will hopefully pick up a full bottle very soon. Incredible perfumery here.
All I’m saying, if I had to choose one fragrance for the rest of my life this would be my choice. 10/10
This star shines, a gentle gourmand, not overpowering but also not weak. Smells much more expensive than it actually is
No set for that home was pretty good. Longevity wasn't that long, but for the most part, had a good aroma and having smelling pretty good.
I first learned of Hanae Mori on a blog that I was pretty obsessed with, back in the early 2000s. This person wasn’t a perfume enthusiast or fashionista, or even a popular blogger as far as I could tell...she seemed to be a gentle quiet weirdo, like me. She had a goth Betty Page bob and she did something in tech and updated sporadically about her little Seattle apartment. I thought she was the coolest. When I began to really delve into fragrances a few years later, I recall her mentioning this one in passing, and so sought out a sample. I was disappointed at how ordinary it seemed. Twenty years later I quite disagree with past me! Hanae Mori is a perfectly lovely woody vanilla and creamy, milky musk with hints of dusty dried grass and the airy green tang of blackberry leaves. A lot of reviewers mention fruit, but I don’t get any of that at all. If you enjoy the sweet comfort and nostalgic 90's whispers of Vanilla Fields or the bitter Miss Havisham melancholia of Fleur Cachee, I’d say this scent falls squarely in the middle and I am surprisingly obsessed with it.
