Iris Nazarena, from Aedes de Venustas was released in 2013. The perfumer behind this creation is Ralf Schwieger. It has the top notes of Ambrette (Musk Mallow), Iris, Juniper Berries, and Star Anise, middle notes of Agarwood (Oud), Cloves, Leather, and Rose, and base notes of Amber, Incense, Vetiver, and Woody Notes.
So I bought this on the spot and I often worry about such extravagant, impulse purchases because I usually regret them, if not entirely then in certainly in a minor way. I must say Iris Nazarena has held up well, it's two weeks later and I still love this fragrance. The opening was a real eyeopener for me, a soft, creamy, powdery leather and not unfamiliar from many fragrances I would've perhaps dubbed 'a bit feminine' in the past. It's brilliant though. The Iris is obvious in the opening and throughout but what struck me was just how real and buttery the leather smell is in here. It's not rough or aged this is brand new, modern, Italian, white leather. It's also woody in the extreme from the getgo. I mean there's an unmistakable quality sandalwood in this fragrance that perfectly compliments and accents the Iris and leather. I'd say there's trace hints of spice and that comes over more in the deep satisfying drydown. The one critisim of this scent could be that it's not all that strong or long lasting. I would argue that it smells so good I can forgive it these minor issues and I put plenty on, so it easily lasts all day and sticks to clothing very effectively. It's an intimate scent which doesn't need to announce itself or project wildly so that didn't bother me either. Like I mentioned, It's not totally unique or like nothing I've smelled before, I mean loads of iris scents spring to mind but few deliver the sandalwood and leather in such abundance and balance. It's a bit like Dior Homme/Homme parfum, Zegna's Florentine Iris, YSL's Noble leather, Ann Gerard Cuir d' Nacre and any quality sandalwood fragrance you'd care to insert here. The point is Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is a perfect storm of all of these, arriving on my radar at a perfect time and therefore getting fast tracked into my wardrobe. I don't know why this elegant scent spoke to me so much... but it did. This fragrance is an absolute winner. Oh before I go! Just briefly on the bottle design. I tutted and rolled my eyes at the SA who couldn't wait to show me AdV and the fancy stopper mechanism but actually it was only upon getting it home and handling the bottle for myself that I actually think it's a cool design.
For anyone who missed out on these, I'm elated to tell you that most (if not the entire line?) are coming back, with new packaging. This one is especially sort after because it's gorgeous but I also really enjoyed some of the others including the rhubarb and ginger of Signature by Bertrand Duchaufour. A rare treat and recontinuation for fragrance fans.