Arrogance Pour Homme, from Arrogance was released in 1982. The perfumer behind this creation is unknown. It has the top notes of Artemisia, Bergamot, Green Notes, Lemon, and Spicy Notes, middle notes of Carnation, Cinnamon, Honey, Jasmine, Rose, and Sandalwood, and base notes of Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Civet, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Patchouli, and Vetiver.
A few days ago got me thinking about Arrogance pour Homme, the first version. A timely article made me want to revisit it. I’ve had about 4-5 bottles of it; the edt, the edp, and there’s little difference in terms of performance; unlike the brochure inside the box, the edp isn’t that much more powerful. My last bottle, just over half way through, from 1986, starts with a powerfully bitter punch. The first thing that comes to mind every time I spray is Bandit. That worn leather smell, slightly bitter, green, smoky. That’s the opening of Arrogance, a typical 80’s leather fougère. Soon after what I mostly get is the dirty florals I’m used to smelling in Kouros, Furyo, and to some extent Ténéré. A sweaty melange of white florals, honey in its animalic facet and spices or spicy florals like carnation, all still covered in the bitter green opening salvo. So many flowers smoked and spiced so that it doesn’t feel or smell like Fracas. It still amazes me how skill and talent can show us so many facets of the same thing. Arrogance isn’t a fragrance that screams. Yes, it’s an 80’s babe; it has sillage, it projects and it lasts well. It’s powerful compared to todays standards. But I find Furyo for instance much much louder. And Kouros it’s a league on its own! Slowly the drydown starts showing. The floral notes start to recede and the leathery castoreum makes itself known. Now, there’s a wonderful talcum halo that softens the leather, calms down the artemisia and the spices, and what you’re left with is a light green smell, slightly sweet and spicy that makes the whole thing smell lived in. The drydown becomes suave, elegant, and here I always catch glimpses of Antaeus; the part where Al Pacino (Cruising, 1981) comes home from the meatpacking district after getting off. This is his alter ego, his loving husband facade. So yeah, for lovers of the above fragrances I’d say Arrogance is a must have. It’s still found cheaply and there are still bottles of the original Pikenz and Dennis formulation available. And for those who don’t really feel this genre or 70’s/80’s powerhouses I’d still say it’s worth trying if you don’t feel like spending the rising bucks for the last remaining bottles of Kouros, Antaeus, Furyo, Paco Rabanne pour Homme etc just to get what they’re about! It might not have the prestige or fame of the others but it has nothing to envy. And Italian perfumery of the past century was magnificent and on par with any French designer. Just don’t expect the monster it’s made to be, it’s strong but easily tamed!