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Francesca unveiled two new releases at Pitti this year and although I couldn't make it, very kindly sent me a sample of this, so Bless your heart. I love Black Knight. It's fantastic! I can't place the fragrance that it actually does smell like, but here's a few that if you're familiar with might give a flavour of what to expect. Elements of Iris Nazarena, Dior Homme, Lonestar memories Coal or Coven (Andrea Maack) and maybe Carven vetiver. Opens not nearly as vetiver based as the description had me thinking, buttery orris, flecks of vegetal and greens with a chunky, soiled earth and off kilter sweetness of patchouli. It's a soft leathery accord built around a iris/orris and then the oily, grubby rag of vetiver just thrown in to give some roughage to the otherwise silky smoothness of Orris root. There's a lightly cosmetic effect, mineral, stone qualities of a quarry or mine. It's very lightly smokey but not thin or brittle. Broadly masculine leaning for what that's worth, and the balance of elements is perfect.
The Black Knight envisions a setting surrounding an Italian mercenary captain of the Medici family during the Renaissance, picturing his military camp in the low light of the evening, pondering about what the day ahead might bring - death or glory? At the centre of the composition is leather, complimented of course by a dense powdery orris and oakmoss which represents the dusty thick smells of of leather horse tacks. To contrast, patchouli, cedarwood and Vetiver take shape to give the impression of a gently burning campfire nearby, without being overtly smoky or off-putting. Finally, a subtle honeyed sweetness of nearby shrubs, emanating their aromatic glory in the humidity of an Italian night. All of this combined creates the most serene picture, yet the vulnerability of the night comes out with a hefty dose of cumin. It’s utterly glorious, one of the bolder leather scents Francesca has made. It took some time for me to form a proper relationship with this scent but the imagery was there right from the initial spray - this scent really takes you on a journey and it’s done to perfection.