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Mancera The Aoud

Well I think the name is suited to this one very well. The Aoud is not just another Rose/oud combo it tips the scales well and truly into the Oud and sandalwood realm rather than the other way into overly rosy territory. The oud is pretty pure and dominant in this one, slightly smoky and medicinal. The opening is dense peppery woods and sharp exotic saffron which settles to a very nice deep dark oud. There's a traditional touch of rose there too but as I mentioned above it's very low in the mix allowing the more woody elements of this brew to shine. Excellent stuff I can't fault it at all. Minimal enough to let the oud shine but with enough creativity to make it a viable composition. Really good stuff from Mancera, does what it says on the tin!

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12 years ago

Mancera Indian Dream

I have to say Mancera have not disappointed to date. To my nose this is a stunningly original rose, just in that it doesn't really smell of rose! It's a white floral affair which again...doesn't smell like your typical white floral because of the dose of sweetness in there. It has an almost synthetic, candy feel to me that rose turns into a Turkish delight and jelly sweets, jam with a breeze of jasmine and musk with a hint of the balsamic and soft amber like base. I think there's a hint of spice in there too or just a tinge from the other florals perhaps? There's a touch of creaminess that hint of vanilla from the amber accord and sandalwood but neither are pronounced. I thought it was pretty stunning to tell you the truth, exotic and interesting. Lasts okay and is blended to perfection. I mean it was hard to define in note terms but in a good way rather than an unfocused way.

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12 years ago

Mancera Wind Wood

A nice, masculine (although the shop assistant who I got the sample from said she wears it.), woody perfume. Mancera have done well in creating some interesting fragrances, Wind wood not being their most but definitely worthy of merit. Looking at the notes here you'd think it was a new take on vetiver perhaps? but it really is a combination of dry cedar and some slightly greener, woody notes and vetiver. The opening is pink pepper, hint of violets and cedar and musk not cliched or over baring, then WW dries down to a tiny amount of soft leather, vetiver and woods. Nothing ground breaking as I mentioned already and very accessible stuff but I wasn't expecting anything massively brave. Fair longevity and projection I will have to sample again to be sure but I'm pretty certain my first impressions are correct.

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12 years ago

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

This is the first fragrance I've sampled from Maitre parfumeur et Gantier and it's impressive. Has all the calling cards of an amber perfume warm and sharp but not as sharp as some amber scents this goes in a different direction and has a real ancient dusty feel to it. I got the old book smell from this slightly musty, like old paper. As it drys down It's vanilla, amber tolu balm and perhaps some Tonka bean quite simple really and any top notes alluded me slightly on this first try. It might not be the most original amber or have anything striking about it to make it really stand out but it's a tried and tested formula. However I still think it's a notable amber scent because of good quality and reasonable pricing. I'm in no way disappointed as this fragrance smells spectacularly good and lasts well...amber lovers should certainly consider sampling.

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12 years ago

Xerjoff Ascot Moon

Ascot Moon opens with a clean blast of lush grassy notes, cedarwood and pepper which makes you think mmmm...that's interesting. As it settles it becomes decidedly spicier, strong oily, earthy tones which to me resemble diesel...not so pleasant. I think all that filth is coming from a dirty 'hippy' patchouli and spice something like caraway. The dry down is smokey but does mellow quite a lot after a few hours and it's nature becomes different again and this makes for an interesting fragrance. Ascot moon is bold but too weird for most peoples taste I would imagine, even mine. An interesting outing for all you patchouli lovers but I'd rather steer clear of it. Update: Interestingly enough I've since purchased an earthy/soil tincture type fragrance which although isn't a million miles away from this and weirdly enough also has 'moon' in the title...it's somehow much more appealing. This is still very smoky and oily in comparison but upon wearing it again the quality is undoubtable.

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12 years ago

Boudicca Wode (Scent)

What a potion this is. A fabulous basis in leather but herbal and sweet too with notes of labnanum and saffron. Wode is super indulgent and strangely the opening has a lot of musk for me despite the note votes on here. After about 10 mins it goes down to wonderful spices of cardamom and nutmeg. What starts out fairly sweet and complex soon becomes earthier and more spiced as it dries down. Boudicca wode is a very accomplished fragrance indeed smells incredible and speaks for itself...however longevity leaves something to be desired. I mean it really doesn't need the paint gimmick which don't get me wrong is a really cool idea but maybe detracts a little from what is a very good fragrance. I never got the paint version to sample incidentally so the child in me may have been whistling an entirely different tune if I had.

Seeing as my last review of this banged on about the paint aspect far too much rather than what a great scent this is. It's even overly musky for my tastes to begin with and I have to go through a barrier, a threshold of appreciation if you like? It settles down and I have to say still very musky but now sharp and earthy with a strong, herbal saffron. Bitter Juniper, Labdanum and saffron is a personal wet dream of mine so the continuation of this fragrance just gets better for me, and at the same time I totally understand why someone would despise Wode..I almost do myself. My girlfriend hates it and made it clear I should never buy it. What I can add to this review is how much it turns into Versace Man in the drydown, something I had neglected to notice the first time I sampled Wode. It really does though the saffron becomes soft, the resin and amber give a kind of similar base and a hint something that reminds me of those liquorice Blackcurrant sweets? The difference being here that Versace Man smells great from the offset and you don't have to go through the musky blast and the completely different vibe created in the first few hours. To me at least I can smell the quality of ingredients in here it's not just loud for the sake of it.

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12 years ago

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Masculin Pluriel

Masculin Pluriel

Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I deliberately didn't look into what this fragrance was about or I'd forgotten if I did. So when this lovely little number revealed itself I was pleasantly surprised. I think aromatic fougere is an apt title for this but with non of the usual over musky or powdery nature it's not sweet but pleasing. Masculine but refined. The opening for me contains a saffron note although it's not listed here it shares some woody/leathery similarity with MFK Oud and Versace Man. That does back off pretty quickly and reveals the heart of soothing, herbal, lavender, woods and vetiver but great quality and somehow better than many in this genre. It's certainly not ground breaking perhaps even a little mundane but is well executed and the drydown doesn't compare to the interest of the opening but still very nice. Classy stuff and although I like many from this line, Kurkdjian plays it quite safe on the whole and Pluriel is no exception. Balance is the key here and he got it right for me, whether it's worth the price tag is entirely in the eyes of the beholder I wouldn't blame someone for falling for this nor would I be surprised If some found it boring and lacking ooomf! The deep drydown is very woody and just a lovely thing and lasting power is good but not excellent. Update: I first sampled this a while back (then wrote the above review) however since then I tried it in store and really didn't like it, especially the top notes, which pretty much flies in the face of my review. I decided to wear it today and I'm sort of stuck inbetween. Pluriel is not all accessible, fun & games, there's something slightly bitter and challenging about it. Makes me like it less but repect the composition more, if that makes sense. I honestly don't think it's your average lavender topped, woody base masculine (well that IS what it is!) I think there's a challenging 'nose dive' as I like to call it. Just when you think you have it worked out there's a slight unpleasantness, not enough to make you dislike it but enough to keep you intrigued. I have to say the sillage on this one is better than I first thought I have been leaving a distinct trail around the place one even I'm aware of. This smells slightly different from opening to dry down, both close on the skin and a waft in the air are distictly different and that has to be a good quality...surely? At least for me a sign of good composition and more than first meets the eye...well nose.

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12 years ago

Montale Dark Purple

Oh can I just mention before I start...Other than containing strong rose note this doesn't smell like DSquared Black Potion, that's a smokey incense/woods/and leather affair. I often say "I'm not the biggest lover of rose..but..." I think I have to face facts I love a good rose fragrance. Dark purple is one of those! Don't get me wrong I'm still very specific about the way in which the rose is 'delivered' for want of a better word. Here is comes over with a remarkable clarity but is still not too rosy for my tastes. I think it's the fact that it's very fruity and sweet but with a velvety sensuality and just a hint of darkness. I really don't see this as particularly 'Dark' or 'dirty' it's quite bright and (wait for it...) jammy!!! Thick, sticky sweet and jam like roses suits the purple colour perfectly! The plum note in here is evident but so is a red berry vibe, so prominent it's almost gourmand. As it settles in there's a hint of musk which balances the fruits and a more delicate base of oud which keeps this going on your skin for hours. The patchouli comes out in the drydown for me and elevates this scent even further, giving it still more refinement. I have to say I love Dark purple although I must admit the opening is a beast and projects even a little much for me. It's like many strong niche roses (especially Montale) which makes a huge statement and that to me is not everyday wear. Even for a special occasion you necessarily want to be beaming out a cloud of dense, plummy rose. I'll forgive it that though it's a brilliant fragrance.

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12 years ago

4160 Tuesdays Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers

Time to Draw the Raffle Numbers

I need to be careful about what I say here because last time I think I might've caused offense to Sarah McCartney, creator of 4160 Tuesdays. I didn't mean to, it's as good a name as any other and I'm definitely not apposed to quirkiness or fun in perfumery, in fact I embrace it with open arms. This house certainly provides that abundantly, in the shape of some left field fragrance concepts. I welcome innovation, stuff that isn't boring and these fragrances are anything but that, so I praise Sarah in her endeavors. For the record...despite how the review came over, I actually quite liked 'The dark heart of old Havana' the idea anyway but there's always one or more unsettling, juxtaposing elements thrown in but I guess that's the whole point of these creations? So what is 'Time to draw the raffle numbers' like? Horrendous! (sorry Sarah!) It really is though! Weirdly it has a musty smell like cardboard or that cheap paper you used to get in primary school and oddly enough what they make raffle tickets from! (I wouldn't be surprised if that's intentional!) However as it settles there's a smokey leather(ish) vibe a stale tobacco mixed with a wheaty note, earthiness, chocolate and marmalade, slighty burned toast and that jarring metallic note of 'bicyces'. Phew!!! Seriously it's all there... this is a brief that has been nailed but just because you can dream something up does it necessarily mean you should execute it? Again I'm not saying 'Don't bother' but this doesn't appeal to me personally. Another thing that bothers me is the inspiration for this fragrance. I might just be the only person in Britain who thinks Bradley Wiggins is a oddly smug, boring and miserable git! I just plain don't like him. His sporting achievements speak for themselves but in terms of a charismatic role model... I find him dull. Yeah so that's my appraisal! This is the kind of fragrance that someone out there will like for sure. I'm a fan of the strange but not this kind of strange...shame because some tiny part of me likes some of the components in 'Time to draw the raffle numbers' I really desperately want to love something from 4160 Tuesdays...I honestly do!

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12 years ago

Juliette Has A Gun Oil Fiction

Juliette Has A Gun

Sure the box is presented beautifully but what is the juice like? Well the honest answer is...I'm still not sure? This is a big departure for JHaG coupled with moon dance this has a totally different approach but still the unsweetened and dirty tuberose note. I think coupled with ylang ylang makes this quite floral sitting on a amber and vanilla base. My initial thoughts were that this is a little phoned in or faux in terms of depth...but I could be wrong? This house has some interesting scents on the whole so I will reserve judgement. Oil fiction seems somehow a bit confused and left me a bit that way too. The name yet again is spot on...something oily and nectar like about this juice, it certainly stirred my interest. Unfortunately, I only sampled it in store and desperately need to get hold of some proper samples so I can trial it properly. The longevity on my wrist was okay and lasted on my shirt cuffs but I'd expected super concentration just by the look of it. The jury is out but this didn't blow me away first try.

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12 years ago

Juliette Has A Gun Moon Dance

Juliette Has A Gun

Moon dance definitely evokes the name and night time flowering, white blossoms. Not the sweet part of them but the dirty and powdery element of mysterious tuberose and violet. The main thing about MD is a musky opening which makes you think it might be quite brash for a moment before it settles to quite a calm hum of powdery vibes rose and patchouli among them. This has a traditional feel, maybe more suited to the mature lady? perhaps not though? but that's the overriding impression I got. I wouldn't wear this, it's clean but seems pretty geared toward women and rightly so.

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12 years ago

Pierre Balmain Carbone de Balmain

Carbone de Balmain

I got it in my head that Balmain didn't make masculine or even Unisex fragrances but I was obviously mistaken. I have to say I adore this fragrance it's magic! Huge dose of peppery woods and dry synthetic cedar and vetiver but that's telling the story in reverse. The opening is a curious, aniseed, resiny, elemi, (what I assume is) fig, incense vibe then pepper coming on stronger. Very darkly fruity this one and a musky, lightly smoked effect to it also...very very interesting and right up my street. Then it gets a little disappointing the immediate comparison on the drydown is to Encre Noire and that takes a good hour or two to progress past that opening to the familiarity of vetiver and pepper. Not a bad thing to smell like but for me the opening shows more promise and interest. Average longevity and subtle projection...well worth checking out for those who like a arty, not all the way dark fragrance.

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12 years ago

Creed Royal Water

I'm surprised there's not some ridiculous 'ye olde' Creed tale to go with this perfume (maybe there is?) but it could perhaps evoke one? The reason I say this is I get a distinct traditional cologne sort of vibe from it, super fresh and clean. The juniper and fruits are biting and zesty and the basil is fresh. Despite not being anything overly innovative note wise this is a citrus/juniper/musk combo which delivers quality and sophistication. Also there's something uncomplicated and has a masculine simplicity about it. That's not the whole story though because the drydown has a characteristically intricate touch of the herbal and what I can only assume is ambergris? This is something I can identify in this as well as millesime imperial, silver mountain water, erolfa etc... Royal water is slightly more appealing to me than erolfa or MI, don't know why it just is. I like to bash Creed a little but in all honesty I love many of this houses fragrances and if I can get them at a knockdown price, I would consider it. Longevity and projection pretty average but again not bad for a citrus. I'd wear this on a warm spring or hot summer day and thoroughly enjoy it I'm sure.

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12 years ago

24 24 Gold Oud Edition

24 Gold Oud Edition

I've had this for a week now and being the proud owner of the entire 24 line I was eagerly anticipating the launch of this one. Blind bought from the back room of the store because they hadn't even put them on the shelves yet and had no testers. Frankly, I thought how much better can this be than the original(?) a fragrance which was right up my street, sweet, fruity, gourmand but resinous, woody and creamy with vanilla. Well Scent story have managed to nail it again! This is quite simply 24 Gold with an amped up Oud note which is prominent and obvious from the very beginning. It's woodier, spicy in a darker way with more pink pepper in the opening for sure but with that sweetness lingering underneath. This lasts for several hours and then it dry's down to a very familiar vanilla 24 Gold accord. This is stunning juice and a perfectly welcome addition to my collection despite owning the original. Although I love it 24 Gold can become a little cloying after a while just due to it's sweetness and massive longevity and projection. This oud addition is a remedy to this issue because of the definite transition between the opening few hours and more recognizable sweetness later. By the time it does arrive, it's softer and welcome to my nose. Huge projection and longevity as expected...just get it!

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12 years ago

24 24 Platinum Oud Edition

24 Platinum Oud Edition

So they've finally landed on fragrantica! My main concern when these were announced was really how much better are they going to be? I've had oud editions for a week now and I can honestly say I'm glad I purchased them despite having all of the 24 range (and back up bottles.) I've started with this one because in my opinion it differs more from the original than Gold does with it's counterpart. The original 24 Platinum was an odd fish, a musky oud rose fragrance but with a sharpness of citrus throughout, which made for a strange combo. Stranger still that oud was not listed among the notes, yet abundantly clear to any nose sniffing this fragrance. What I liked about this was that it was unusual and unlike anything else out there. The closest comparison I could draw was Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud and perhaps Tom Ford Oud wood with a nod to more common Oud/rose combos as well..as I said 24 Platinum was a bit of a rubix cube. This oud edition is quite a departure in that it's more of a traditional Oud/rose and frankly not as challenging for me as the original was. Oud edition still has elements of that metallic, citrus thing from the original but it's very muted. Think of a strong musky rose from Montale I think this is somewhere between White Aoud and Roses Musk. I've used those as recent reference points but I think quite accurately as it does have that synthetic OTT vibe of Montale about it. For this reason the opening is too rosy for me and not as refined as something with a more woody charater, medicinal oud vibe or patchouli/vanilla/saffron etc... That's not to say I don't like it...far from it! This is superb fragrance for the price and I would encourage anyone looking for a rose fragrance to check this out before forking out big sums on niche juice. £37.50 for 100ml's can't argue with that! I mentioned the opening but have neglected the drydown somewhat because it is really really nice. The rose is still there but settles back, the musk is less prominent and the woody qualities sing on my skin becoming softer. Longevity and projection are insane.

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12 years ago

Xerjoff 1888

I'm not the greatest fan of Zerjoff...only a couple of greats among the ranks and far too many disappointing scents. This one 1888, I had no preconceptions about and just picked at random to sample, I have to say I'm inpressed. Shocking really as I'm not the biggest lover of florals and especially white, blossomy ones. That's what I get from this is a lovely balanced floral opening spiced slightly with pepper and cloves. Then a warm woody heart with a beautiful neroli note. Yes 'beautiful'! Not that I hate neroli but it's not my favorite thing in the world. Just surprising when it appeared after what I thought was going to be a floriental/amber/spicy type scent it gives you a lovely fresh balance of the white floral note. The drydown is a soft powdered, suede and florals. Complex and very well conceived juice this one, I'm sure it would be a hit with those of you who like a gentle scent. I found it interesting and stylish, and quite Italian which is not something I often associate which Zerjoff, despite their origin. I loved this fragrance to be honest, a little bit disappointed by the performance it's good but not great, glad a checked it out though.

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12 years ago

L'Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fete

L'Artisan Parfumeur

I don't know...? perhaps there's something wrong with me? I love sweet scents, adore almonds, anything gourmand really and enjoy the idea of wheaty, milky notes. So why on earth are so many of these creations just insipidly unbearable to me... especially on my skin? I have a real problem with some almond fragrances they are just plain harsh and weird, not the lovely creamy almond of something like AdP Mandorlo di sicilia. Jour de Fete isn't one of those deep heavy affairs it's just plain unsettling. The top notes to me are iris and in this instance come over as ghostly and aloof. They float above the milky, wheaty creamy notes of almond and vanilla giving a cuddling effect which just doesn't work for me. It's a bizarre fragrance this one. The more I smell it the more I feel I'm desperately rooting with my snout like a pig searching for truffles, occasionally stumbling upon something remotely pleasing. On the whole though it's bitter to me and gets slightly worse even as it settles down but luckily for me the longevity poor. It didn't stop me buying it for my girlfriend for Christmas though I just couldn't deny £20 for 100ml of L'AP...I hope she likes it and it smells better on her.

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12 years ago

Fueguia 1833 Misiones

I can completely understand the position of the reviewer below this is YET another Full incense/Avignon/cardinal etc etc etc...the list is actually huge! A prominent fresh, light white frankincense note which sparkles out of this creation and I can't help but enjoy it. Sure it's not original and this (as far as I can remember?) is my first from this house so not the best start in terms of impressing me. The lady in the shop had the brief of "I like resinous, woody perfume, complex you know? Possibly something with incense and spices?" As soon as I mentioned incense she sprung to life and offered up lots of very familiar stuff infact she did bring Cardinal over too! When I asked for incense I didn't mean four perfumes which all smell the same!!! Oh and also...to speak on that wooden coffin...apparently they are made by disabled people in Patagonia or the Andes or somewhere? I didn't know if they were promoting the fair trade, ethical aspect of the manufacture or what? I'm sure it's not exploitative or slave labour or anything but when you see a brand demanding a high price, in a boutique store just seems a little misplaced. Anyway morality aside, Fueguia seem to offer up some interesting juice so I will reserve judgement until I've sampled more of the line. Average performance and nothing really new here scent wise but I still adore the smell it's stunning!

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12 years ago

Comme des Garcons Comme Des Garsons 3

Comme Des Garsons 3

Comme des Garcons

You never see this one anywhere in the UK even in shops which have a comprehensive selection of Comme des garcons fragrances. Luckily I found it in the CdG perfume shop in Paris and my word is 3 the epitome of this houses fragrances(?) It's strangely aloof, avant garde and yet inviting. I can see how some of the fragrances from this house can leave people cold (especially this one) but I embrace the oddity and love to challenge my nose. So I get fresh bright frankinsence type top notes even a hint of juniper the heart is slightly peppery and herbal then a woody drydown. It's an odd fragrance and does have that cellophane, synthetic, new magazine, ink print smell to it. To me though it's quite warm and woody and comes across quite natural. I may just have a soft spot for CdG, Mark Buxton's creativity and will forgive them pretty much anything. It has an incense signature to it though and I love that about many of their fragrances, it's certainly not boring. Modern and not for everyone but I enjoyed it, performance was average and longevity was not so good.

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12 years ago

Caron Bain de Champagne (Royal Bain de Caron)

Bain de Champagne (Royal Bain de Caron)

This is as classic as floriental amber gets but for all it's 'classicness' it's quite odd. Dated is the word for this one, seriously dated. The floral opening (must be lilac?) is actually quite pleasant but not to my taste. Then the heart of this fragrance is opoponax, benzoin and vanilla. It's very balmy and powdered I sort of love it. Royal Bain represents the warm elements I love in perfume but somehow it's not something I could wear. I can't explain it...there's a certain stigma to it. On my skin a bit strange but I could imagine it being incredible in a hot bath so I've purchased it for my girlfriend for christmas.

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12 years ago

Montale Roses Musk

Nothing I haven't smelled before but somehow Roses musk has bowled me over. I didn't try it on my skin but chemistry wise I do think that scents can smell different on different skin but not vastly. I mention that because I got my girlfriend to try this as I had samples on both wrists at this point. I kept sniffing her throughout the day and this is what I thought. Roses musk starts out with a very bright, juicy rose note which I deem to be feminine, possibly with the addition of jasmine? It's too rosy for me in all honesty and being a Montale this 'Opening' period is longer than many perfumes but when settled it starts to shine. The rose settles in and a soft white musk and I could swear an almost vanilla and patchouli at the back of this making it almost edibly beautiful. I smelled this in Belgium and just days earlier I'd been in Paris and eaten very fancy fresh Macarons with a rose flavour to many of them, this reminded me of that. This is a lovely, powerful, long lasting but soft rose scent.

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12 years ago

Kenzo Kenzo Pour Homme

Kenzo Pour Homme

Another fragrance I remember from back in the 90's which I simply don't see anywhere anymore. Luckily I managed to stumble upon it once more and the memories came flooding back. This is a complex woody, fresh scent but has an overiding oldskool musky element. It's a masculine, true aquatic, with hints of herbal greeness in the opening and dry cedar oakmoss and sandalwood in the drydown. Still this isn't my style and never really has been but I think fragrances being released today could take note that there's more ways to do woody or aquatic scents than bland fakery. Suitable for all occasions this one and good performance too. Also a very interesting bottle design which has stood the test of time.

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12 years ago

Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme Sport

Yves Saint Laurent

Dear oh dear L'Homme Sport is awful! Can't believe it took this line so long to get a 'Sport' flanker anyway and they needn't have bothered. Seriously how can you cock up what is on the whole not a bad line of fragrances? citrus/lemon verbena and mild spices should be great? Well by giving it an insipidly synthetic, chemical amber/cedar base! That has to be it because (and I hate to be melodramatic here) it's offensive to my nose! Generic cheap and hashed together is the feel. Sport deviates too far from the original L'Homme(which is pretty average anyhow), if they'd have gone down a route of bergamot/lemon verbena/corriander/vetiver which would mirror the originals lemon/ginger thing it might have been a bit boring but better than this. The juice is a cool colour, that's about all the positive spin I can put on it, oh and it lasted quite well on my skin...unfortunately.

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12 years ago

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme Frozen Cologne

La Nuit de l'Homme Frozen Cologne

Yves Saint Laurent

Who would've thought it but this flanker is amazing! Really! I'm indifferent about the original L'Homme, I like La Nuit and the parfum version and the terrible Sport version but I think this one might be my favourite. It really does invoke an icy freshness the spicy, menthol, citrus is pretty effortless in creating this feel before drying down to a more familiar La Nuit de L'Homme accord. That warm, woody, clean soapy cardamom and fruits. I like this...it's that same method of introducing a brighter fresher element to an already winning formula. However it is only really the opening that is vastly different so I couldn't justify a purchase at the moment. Still I was pleasantly surprised by this one.

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12 years ago