This perfume plugs directly into my current tastes, reminding me of loads of soft, gentile, musky things. I love the construction, great simplicity on the formula from Celine Ellena and nothing hidden in accords, speaking to the nature of this. I was surprised how little Ambrettolide is in here but I'm not suggesting this smells like any one thing because it doesn't. Superfusion is such an appropriate name for it but if you do like Galaxolide or musk mallow, soft, clean musks basically you will enjoy this but still be shown some originality with this perfume. One minor criticism is that it tends to fatigue and gets a bit, bready and wheaty on my skin when dried down to the IES baseafter the sweetness of the musks has died a touch. Still awesome though.

I'll have to try this again because my notes say 'green' chlorophyll but not basil crucially. A herbal green bergamot I described it as when it's compared here to Tacid a fragrance I felt had a basil note quite prominently. Anywho...no prizes for guessing that there's Cis-3-Hexanol in here giving it a bright, breezy, grassy vibe but balanced perfectly so as not to be intrusive. I enjoyed it but not something to be raved about.

oooh...This is rough. 70% ISO E SUPER (Not that it's a bad thing) in here with PEA in the opening, flitting between anosmic anonymity, and astringent sharpness akin to hairspray or a particularly potent bug killer. Truly not pleasant and I'm not apposed to this stuff at all, but in this particular combo, it's fairly god awful. Then when dried down it becomes better but it's essentially that 'barely there', skin minimalism which does have the dry, kinda appealing IES facets, perhaps cashmeran making it woodier and silkier? it also has a vague, paper and hint of curry note. reasonably enjoyable after the initial phase.

As cynical as the review below is... He has a point. As cynical as the review below that is... They have a point too. A marginal defence of this brand, they are overtly, telling and selling us a concept. A strong one I think, which shines a spotlight on perfumery practices in a very knowing and post modern way. The pop art, primary colours and slick packaging, Flacons etc...reflects this. And they're not extortionately expensive (are they?) However, I get the scepticism and I imagine they will end up in TK MAXX soon. Especially where the oud content of this particular one is concerned. Saving graces are that it doesn't have 'Oud' in the name and it's using a legit Indian Oud material (if a tiny amount) also, this fragrance really isn't intentionally an oud but obviously the perfumer felt it brought something to the formula? (I'm grasping here, because I don't know?) Anyway the other thing that's good about Sexcrush is that it's a nice perfume, giving a very balmy, resinous effect of amber, entombed in a vaguely medicinal 'bandage' note a bit like myrrh I suppose? and the obligatory rose accord. (Could be the oud?) feels a bit powdery, drying down the rose stays bright but feels much more about bass tones than top fluff or heart dominance. A modern amber I'd say. I liked it.

Intriguing formula, Carlin hiding all the juicy stuff within the accords but it's pretty straight up I thought. The leather base prominent and iris poking through, I love the smell of it but not wildly original. I need to sniff it again to be honest but I liked it very much. Anything of note about the formula? 1% Fleur d'oranger which I know from using the expensive absolute, is quite easily masked. I don't recall smelling it in this, so yeah...I'll have to revisit? 1/3 of the formula is hedione which is not uncommon but is probably what's supporting those iris (and barely detectable Orange blossom) notes from popping through.

I was expecting to like this one as much as I did not because of the ginger element but the fact that it's not that easy to pull off. Gingerlise doesn't manage it either really. I think I was imagining a kind of crystallised ginger in this, not sure I was actually smelling it though? However it gives that impression. I will give it a 'light' transparent ginger note at best however that's not where the fun lies. Gingerlise has a glorious citrus opening which has all the freshness of lemongrass with none of the horrible part, so easy to overdose in a citrus accord but so beneficial to it's lasting power and overall roundness, when you get it right. To me it had lime dominance, not the green bergamot or typical citrus this packs the punch and originality I look for in a fresh fragrance. However, it's very short lived sitting on a light musky base and only lasted a couple of hours. Shame because this was a surprising like for me.

A piece of Amber repeated dunked into the dead sea and dried, covering it in crystalline salt. This is a modern, ambergris recreation, IES dominant in the opening drying to a leathery, amber accord which then turns a Little soured and resembles Amberome base, which isn't in here but is actually real labdanum according to the formula. Strange though because it has a distinctly rubbery, mineral odour that I associate with it, bit odd for me. Reminded me of 'Slate' a perfume from Bath House in the drydown. The saltiness with the largely modern, woody, amber is kinda interesting I suppose? Would I wear it? No.But it's not offensive. Anything interesting to note about the formula supplied for this one? Not really other than it's considered as an 'Oriental Vanilla' by it's creator(???) bit odd. 30% Iso E Super which is not surprising or haute compared to some.

Nope! This is hideous too. An overly strong waxy neroli temporally masks the awful almond, salty, coconut, creamy, murky childhood medicine smell of the original..but dies after the first 20 mins. Not a fan.

One of the strangest olfactory experiences I can recall from recent times fantastical and awful in equal measure. With my sensible hat on this is a loud, brash overly harsh, fruity oud mess. The opening flits between exotic but entirely unnatural fruits I thought kinda resembled red berries, mango and even pineapple at times. Not surprised to see all the fruits listed and perhaps lychee is exactly it? This is juxtaposed against a strongly animalic, cheese smell of oud in the top notes but it's quite fleeting only lasting 20 minutes or so before a relentless, smoky, dirty leather and synthetic musky, amber accords develop which smells like every cuir base ever conceived of, all mixed together with a dry, tenacious flith of Isobutyl Quinoline and saffron. However, despite this seemingly negative slant to my review so far, I actually think Moon is a pretty original and interesting piece. It's not the meek, uninspiring effort that I thought Rose & Cuir turned out to be and I think you will get some bang for your buck or Dirham? as this is undoubtedly being pushed towards the middle eastern market. The Moon is so bonkers, I couldn't wear it. This is a taste thing purely and I'm in a phase of gentle, Chanel refinement at present and stuff like this just seems like it has neon signs on it and huge thug life sirens going off! The Moon is the precocious drama school kid dancing around and furiously trying to steal the limelight.

This is fantastic. My favourite from Francesca's line I think? Even though it smells incredibly familiar, perhaps I'm just a creature of habit? It's pretty classical chypre/fougere bizness and has the opening of eau de cologne, sharp bits but with great materials. Namely citus in the opening, green, herbal bergamot into oakmoss and that orris and more prominent vetiver woods. Francesca is a master of leather feeling accords and pretty much each fragrance has an entirely different look of leather. Estruscan water is more classically in the aromatic VC&A, aramis, safari...sort of territory. It's light on it's feet though and perhaps a touch more rugged and real or just less refined than classic designer fair of a similar ilk. I think the freshness in this really elevates it and gives a welcome breath of fresh air from some of the more claustrophobic creations in her repertoire.