Perfumer Playlist: Francis Kurkdjian

30 Jul 2025

Article by:

Perfumer Playlist is the series where we take a deep dive into the back catalogue of a perfumer, showcasing their creations in three specific playlists: The Essentials, Next Steps, and Deep Cuts. We like to call this olfactive discography a perfumer’s “olfactography” because, just like a musical artist, it showcases their versatility, talent, and artistry.

Francis Kurkdjian is a French perfumer currently working at Dior and his own brand, Maison Francis Kurkdjian. He is perhaps most famous for being the perfumer behind Jean Paul Gaultier’s iconic masculine fragrance Le Mâle, which just so happened to be his first commercial composition. What a way to start, eh? He’s made many other fragrances for Gaultier and other designer brands, whilst also composing perfumes for a select number of niche brands too. His style is accessible and approachable, with the occasional unusual twist that shocks and surprises.

I once interviewed Kurkdjian and he described himself as having a disruptive attitude and it’s true, her certainly thinks outside of the box. When he launched Maison Francis Kurkdjian he was one of the first brands to offer luxury washing detergent as well as novelties such as violet scented bubbles. Scanning his olfactography reveals a vast and varied line-up of some of the greatest fragrances all time, positioning Kurkdjian as a prolific perfumer of unmatched talent with a nose for beauty and an unrivalled sense of fun.

Within this Perfumer Playlist you’ll find a guide to some of his best fragrances, starting with the essentials you must try, before gravitating to the next steps, and finishing with those hidden gems that are well worth seeking out. All you need to do is press play and enjoy.

The Essentials

The essentials are the perfumer’s greatest hits – the ‘must smells’, if you will. These are the creations that you’re likely to have already tried but if you haven’t, they’re exactly the right place to start. They are the most accessible, most popular, and most successful. Francis Kurkdjian has created some of the biggest blockbuster scents in the world and this playlist represents just a handful of examples of just how innovative he is as a perfumer, creating iconic fragrances that have changed the landscape of perfumery forever.

Track 1. Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier.

There’s no track more important in any playlist than the opener and for Francis Kurkdjian we couldn’t kick off with any fragrance other than Le Mâle. This was his first commercial fragrance and it was a blockbuster that put his name on the map. It’s a contemporary fougère that amplifies the coolness of mint, the aromatic feel of lavender, and the powdery sweetness of vanilla. The result is a clean, comforting fragrance that smelled like muscular butt cheeks, fresh out of the shower and dusted in talc. No wonder it was a smash hit.

Track 2. Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Few fragrances within the last decade have had as gargantuan an impact as Baccarat Rouge 540. When it launched in 2015 it presented an olfactory signature that nobody had smelled before. It was entirely new, and it created a sense of olfactory shock, all with a relatively simple formula. Inspired by the process of forging Baccarat red crystal, BR540 overlaps the silvery marine facets of Ambroxan with the toasted sugar aroma of Ethyl Maltol, with some jasmine, saffron, and fir balsam thrown in for good measure. It all comes together in a unique breeze of water and fire. It’s nothing short of a masterpiece.

Track 3. Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden.

Green Tea is an easy fragrance to overlook. Often found in the bargain bin, this unassuming (and frankly unattractive) bottle doesn’t get the love it deserves, mostly because it feels like it has been around forever. But, when given the attention it deserves, Green Tea reveals itself as a beautifully effervescent, light, and airy take on tea that focuses on an aria of citrus notes. Sure, it only lasts for a few hours, but on a hot summer’s day there are few things that are more pleasant to spritz oneself with. It’s a Kurkdjian staple that shouldn’t be missed.

Track 4. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum by Narciso Rodriguez

Francis Kurkdjian is adept at creating accessible, wearable fragrances with high quality ingredients. Whether he’s working in the designer or niche spaces, he often powers his fragrances with musks, creating expansive, diffusive scents that feel like a second skin. Perhaps the best example of this is For Her by Narciso Rodriguez which, on a breeze of musk, presents an intimate dance of rose and patchouli. It’s the olfactory equivalent of pink chiffon or tulle – light, fluid, airy, delicate.

Track 5. Le Parfum by Elie Saab

If it were possible to bottle the idea of golden light, Elie Saab’s radiant Le Parfum is what it would smell like. It is lens flare in a bottle and it’s beautiful. Celebrating the couturier’s Lebanese roots, Le Parfum showcases glowing orange blossom dripping in honey, with the sharpness of patchouli for contrast (oh, and of course, a ton of musk too), creating a gleamingly brilliant fragrance that is as dazzling as liquid gold.

Track 6. Fleur de Figuier by Roger & Gallet

Fig fragrances either go super jammy and sweet, woody and twiggy, or super green. Fleur de Figuier manages perfect equilibrium, with super juicy, milky fig, a hint of tree bark, and oodles of greenery. It’s the olfactory equivalent of a sunlit fig crushed between the hands. Beautiful stuff that’s unreasonably cheap given its quality.

Track 7. Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

The thing about amber (a resinous accord of labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla) is that it can often be dense and thick, not allowing any light to pass through. The mastery of Grand Soir is that is a truly glowing amber that takes inspiration from the twinkling lights of Paris. Placing emphasis on aromatics (lavender, specifically), spices, and vanilla, Kurkdjian pays homage to Obsession for Men, zhuzzing it up into something fuller, more complex, and brighter. Grand indeed.

Next Steps

Now that you’ve explored the blockbusters in Francis Kurkdjian’s back catalogue, it’s time to move on to the next steps. These scents are a step beyond The Essentials. They may not be the first things you reach for and may be a flanker of one of his icons. They may also be a bit more niche and obscure, but they are easily found and are definitely not to be missed.

Track 1. Eau Noire by Dior.

I tell you now, you will either love or hate Eau Noire, there is no in between, no middle ground, and certainly no mild opinion. Eau Noire is a lavender, but not as you know it. This is lavender made black – a lavender that celebrates the malted, toasted sugar notes and liquorice facets, all amplified by the maple-esque and curry facets of immortelle. It is a high fashion take on lavender that cuts a dark, avant garde figure.

Track 2. Tihota by Indult.

Vanilla is a hard material to tackle, and it often ends up sickly and sweet, resulting in sprayable cake with way too much fondant icing. Tihota avoids all of this by amping up the white floral facets of the material, pairing them with a salty skin effect and breezy white musks. Instead of cake, one ends up with vanilla and sunshine wafting gently on warm island air.

Track 3: Gaultier2 by Jean Paul Gaultier.

The notes list for Gaultier2 is entirely misleading. It promises a simple and edible blend of vanilla, musk, and amber. In truth, Gaultier2 is so much more than those three things. It’s a syrupy sweet (think grape juice) but also biscuit-like. There’s a hint of sweaty sports socks (swoon) in the background and a creamy, skin-like quality that feels magnetic and intimate. It’s absolutely bonkers, but in the best possible way and thankfully, Gaultier have recently revived it as a web exclusive after a long period of discontinuation.

Track 4: Oud by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Oud is not like other ouds, it’s built different. Instead of a heavy, smoky affair surrounded by velvety rose, or stewed fruits, MFK’s Oud is a delicate oud powered by white musks. It evokes the vivid image of hot, glittering sands as they fuse into glass. Oud serves as proof that Kurkdjian has a talent for making the obscure accessible and a penchant for unusual twists.

Track 5: Rose Barbare by Guerlain.

A big, beastly, animalic rose chypre doesn’t feel particularly Guerlain nor Kurkdjian, but that’s exactly what Rose Barbare is. It’s a neon rose nestled amongst thorny verdant leaves, talon-like thorns, and a pool of rich, funky honey. They don’t make glamorous fragrances like this anymore, except they do, and praise be to Guerlain and Francis Kurkdjian for doing so.

Track 6: Ma Dame by Jean Paul Gaultier.

I have a working theory that Ma Dame may just be the fizziest, most fun fragrance out there. What could have just been an effervescent floral citrus (a sort of vibrant, juicy rose) receives a Kurkdjian twist in the form of sticky grenadine syrup. Ma Dame is a bubbly, riotous fragrance that is the life and soul of any party. The good news is that Ma Dame is yet another recent revival from the Gaultier archives.

Track 7: Promesse d’laube by Parfums MDCI

Clearly inspired by Guerlain’s iconic Mitsouko, Promesse d’laube is a beautiful peachy chypre that shows the unimaginable beauty Kurkdjian can create when given a big budget and open brief. Putting the chypre firmly into a modern context, Promesse d’laube opts for a plush landing over the mossy, woodiness found in the traditional base. It’s a gleaming, brilliant fragrance with an unquantifiable beauty.

Deep Cuts

The deep cuts in the perfumer’s olfactography are the hidden gems that don’t get as much attention, despite being some of their best work. Perhaps they are discontinued or are creations for a more obscure brand. They may even be weird and challenging, or they could simply be a scent that didn’t get as much love as it deserved. These are Francis Kurkdjian’s deep cuts.

Track 1. New Look by Dior.

New Look, like Baccarat Rouge 540, is an example of how Kurkdjian has a talent for overlapping bold materials to create something entirely new. Created for Dior’s Collection Privée, New Look simply places frankincense under a shimmering cloud of aldehydes. The result is a bubbly, silvery fragrance that is wonderfully textured and finely cut, just like a piece of Dior couture.

Track 2. Narciso Rodriguez For Him by Narciso Rodriguez.

If the colour grey were to have a smell it would be Narciso For Him. Centred on the green, mineral, cucumber-fresh facets of violet leaf, blended with silky white musks, Narciso for Him is a grainy, powdery fragrance with a dusty, melancholic air. It feels fragile, like grey-coloured porcelain. Monochromatic colours never smelled so beautiful.

Track 3. Fleur du Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier

There are few discontinued fragrances that are missed more than Fleur du Mâle. Released at a time when using “fleur” in the name of a mainstream masculine fragrance pretty much doomed its chances of success (I honestly don’t think that would be the case nowadays), Fleur du Mâle was a beautifully milky-white take on orange blossom that smelled like pollen drying on clean skin. There was nothing like it at the time and there’s been nothing like it since. Let’s hope it gets the Gaultier revival treatment.

Track 4. Fragile by Jean Paul Gaultier.

Unconventional takes on familiar themes is somewhat of a Kurkdjian signature (see MFK Oud above) and Fragile is perhaps one of the strangest. Tuberose, which is often presented as bubble-gum-sweet or voluptuous and narcotic, becomes cold and aloof in this offbeat white floral. To my nose, Fragile has always smelled like the colour of gold. It’s icy cold to the touch, green and camphorous, with delicate ripples of vanilla and musk. Never before has tuberose been so strange yet so compelling. Another vote for a Gaultier revival, for sure.

Track 5. Essence Nº6 Vetiver by Elie Saab.

Elie Saab’s Essence Nº6 is one of the greatest vetiver fragrances of all time so of course it is discontinued (angrily shakes fist at the perfume gods). Of course! It is perhaps the most well-rounded vetiver, with all facets of the material present: hints of grapefruit, earth, salt, smoke, root, wood, and greenery, all present and correct. Essence Nº6 is slightly leathery and woody, evoking the idea of expertly crafted, but fashionable coat in shades of green and brown.

Track 6. Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma.

With Francis Kurkdjian it’s often best to expect the unexpected. Iris Nobile promises iris but what it delivers is so much more and given the fact that iris is the most expensive perfumery material on the market, it’s no surprise that Iris Nobile smells like quiet luxury. This is a delicate, powdery floral with soft hints of rose, star anise and Kurkdjian’s signature white musks over a chypre base. It may not be an iris, but it is beautiful.

Track 7. Absolue Pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Francis Kurkdjian once described Absolue Pour le Soir as the “black leather pants” of his fragrance collection, comparing it to the “white t-shirt” of Aqua Universalis. The latter may be more easy to wear in an everyday, casual kind of way, but it’s nowhere near as much fun. Absolue Pour le Soir is, hands down, one of the filthiest fragrances to ever exist. It’s got a big ol’ honey stank on it and is so rich, unctuous, and dense it lasts for days. Not everyone can wear this but on the right person, Absolue Pour le Soir is heaven in olfactory form.