Yeah yeah Nima80...that’s all very nice but is it ‘beastmode’ and does it get you compliments? In all seriousness I enjoyed the poem and look forward to explore the relationship and eagerly anticipate my samples when they arrive and I will update with a proper review.

Me oh my oh me oh my!!! I made that jokey comment below clearly satirising philistinism but perhaps I shouldn’t have been so flippant about Ithaka because it’s magic. (As I suspected it would be) Now this still isn’t going to be a ‘proper’ review yet because I only had one little spritz but boy oh boy was I impressed. I was instantly transported, into the poetic narrative behind Mendittorosa’s creations this one didn’t require any thought about composition or anything else for that matter the smell is divine. The incense opening is clearly driven by the sweeter more opulent resins styrax, and very much labdanum to start with. Then a sweetness of vanilla which might just be coming from the warmth of benzoin, all of which is familiar but assembled in a nigh on perfect way, the labdanum dying back and some of the less jagged components making for a mellow drydown. To say this fragrance is perfect at this early stage would be foolish but it’s very very nice indeed and might well be the perfect excuse to get myself one of these fine perfumes. Anyone who loves big warm, resinous, sweet orientals will love this. I love this.

Notes look interesting. TF output is seemingly relentless at the moment and it hasn’t all been good, consider me intrigued about this one.

I like it. However, there's nothing inspiring about it whatsoever and it's about as dynamic as some blueprints for a trouser press. The lavender has the same lovely, quality in the opening as Lavender Palm a fragrance I realise this is not the 'Extreme' version of but it's the closest old Tom release so...it basically is. I don't like Lavender Palm incidentally but I kinda have more respect for it that this. LP was a waxy floral heart, awfully lactonic, fatty even and with a salty, seaweed accord giving loads of dynamics to the lavender. This is a kinda sweet coumarin and vanilla haze, and does have a minor almond quality alluding to Soleil blanc and Fuckin' Fab! He's basically made another fougere (to join the raft of them they just released) but minus some of the elements that give a fougere interest, woody accords, greeness and oakmoss or patchouli whatever? I'm not going to be too hard on Lavender extreme because it smells lovely and the creamy base looms larger and sweeter than something like Caron Homme, which is the same combination just with a more subdued vanilla. Some people have questioned the quality levels of TF's recent releases and I'm sure the 'Extreme' label puts some people off. However, The 'Extremes' have gotten off to a good start for me, The Oud Wood one is much better than the original Oud Wood in my humble opinion but this one has nothing extreme about it. Even though I didn't like Lavender Palm, I respected it and an extreme of that which was truly even more hardcore, would've maybe been welcomed by fans of the original. Instead we get this, slightly lacking effort. I like the shiny bottle though, so there's that.

Can never work out which I prefer out of this and Parfum d'Hermes as they are quite similar. I re familiarised myself with rouge Hermes yesterday and I have to say I enjoy it's themes. Powdery rose, talcum powder soft musk, and an exotic soft fruity peach/apricot vibe from Ylang and smoothness of sandalwood and orris/iris in the base. There's also a hint of cloves which with the powdery florals creates a subtle effect of carnation to my nose. Dries down quite feminine and although I don't pay that too much attention and only bring it up as there are several Hermes fragrances I'd like ahead of this, which just happen to be a little more masculine leaning. That's my take!

Well, it's not surprising to see so many negative reviews, I was a little shocked by this and the blue one (forget the name) and just how cookie cutter, men's designer, woody aquatic, synthetic these are. I don't just mean material wise because I suspect the cedar and patchouli etc... in some of the rest of this line are synthetic not too mention 'green' notes. However, they have some jardin feel to them, curious that Nagel is at the helm for both of these I think? I'm not offended or anything, stuff moves on, I just think this is a slightly uninspiring, floral, woody, aquatic, which opens like a drift wood, and 90's aquatic thing doesn't transition that much but the very last skin remnants smell like a salty, jasmine/hedione approximation and some woody synth base bizz. Some folks don't think this represents the heritage of the brand very well, and they may have a point.

Okay so this is nothing short of fantastic! I'm pretty sure this one didn't exist in the old style bottles, or I'd have tried it for sure. Anyway I have now and the opening is sumptuous as hell, a chocolate accord which feels rounded and deeper than a poof of cacao. It's warm, sort of musky, sweet and creamy but not too much so and has a bitterness delivered by the finest dark chocolate. What is apparent is a kind of coffee note too, in fact I'd say the sense of coffee liqueur is there from the get go. Could even be tonka in here too? I've no doubt that patchouli is adding to both the effect of chocolate and a natural smooth earthiness, with a peppery, smoke from what can only be described as an incense accord. Then the base is woody as anything and this 'Oud noir' that is mentioned on the little card I also sprayed and put in my pocket, is responsible for this opulent, leathery, spiced wood smell. I don't know the origin of the 'oud' and frankly I don't care, Sleek suede is a knockout regardless. The best part about this fragrance is that it's not a gourmand in the sense of it existing to emulate food or just be a 'smell' of the sake of it. Sleek suede feels like perfume, rather than an attempt to have a 'foodie' one in the line. I love Indy perfumers don't get me wrong, and much of the time have a bias towards them for the creativity and lack of regard for the so called 'rules'. However, some perfumes have that, 'I trained in Grasse' sort of feel, a kind of untouchable, jus ne sais que. The sort of subtlety that makes you marvel at it. Sleek suede is one of those, sadly it's quite pricey or I'd want a bottle and I'd prioritise it too. I wasn't looking for a gourmand but this one found me in the middle of summer, I love it!

Well funnily enough, I'm on the coattails of Christi, yet again and in fact her's was one of the few reviews I actually allowed myself to read before trying these. I felt it was informative and entertaining but somehow 'spoiler free' at the same time which is a great quality to have. I've got to say I concur completely with the consensus that Miracle of roses is a startlingly unique interpretation of a 'rose based' (or at least has it in the title) perfume and without over egging it too much, restoring faith in the creativity of Indy perfumers, not that it was in danger. What I mean is... this release is made more Poignant because rose is such a difficult material to put your own mark upon.I think Miguel Matos has managed that. I really can't pick out a Ta'if or a Moroccan or a damask rose in here, it's not one to be fathomed easily, just sit back and enjoy. In fact the top notes in this fragrance give it a warm, oriental feel with a gourmand sense that we will come to in a moment. The rose really is nestled between a milky, nutmeg and cinnamon spiced smell and a kind of incense like accord, maybe olibanum? but that's not even giving the foodie associations, more a sense of sexy, warmth. There's a bready note and I do mean bready, not brioche or baked goods sweet, I'm talking more savoury and wheaty, but it's never to the extent of Serge Luten's Jeux de peau a fragrance I've always wanted to like, but just could never wear because frankly...it's horrible. Another thing is that this doesn't feel too opulent or regal to me, or even perfumey with more of a muted feel. (in a really good way) This is fantastic and proabably my pick of the bunch. I haven't worn it properly but I suspect it will be a rewarding experience and Miguel should be proud and really be praised for a fine piece of work in Miracle of Roses. I think I want a bottle?

Sooooo... I was aware of Miguel because between us we've graced more fragrantica pages than a Luckyscent ad!! But never really properly put a face or character to the articles I'd read here, until I saw more of Miguel on Instagram. This coincided with the release of his modest selection of fragrances, so seeing behind the scenes somewhat, him sat at his perfume organ etc... I was highly anticipating what he could some up with. Germaine is the first one I tried and baring in mind that I only dabbed once then spritzed some on my arm a second time and don't tend to like to post a review until I can 'wear' something properly. Having said all that I think the conclusion with Germaine is that I really like it...but with caveats of course. The opening to me at least is a very peppery, smoky, dry vetiver and despite being a base note in my experience can oddly manifest in the opening in this way. I think it gives an unusual impression but not entirely misleading because this fragrance is very woody and grounded in dry, earthiness. Having said that the next phase comes on within a matter of seconds and it's an incredible, blossoming, violet note/accord which is almost visual in it's progression, by that I mean you can figuratively 'see' it coming. Its a little powder purple, button mushroom, popping it's way out of the earthy undergrowth, which by now is even tinged with a kind of leathery aspect. This opens out into a poof of powdery and sweet violet, I mean it's very much the penhaligon's violetta variety, transporting me to my youth and chomping on Parma violet sweets. Then as it reaches a crescendo in the first fifteen minutes or so, beginning to play peekaboo with a much more woody, dry and distinctly 'Indy' perfume flavour of parched, Ionone heavy, floral, woods. This 'Indy' smell I describe is at the heart of this fragrance and it's a mulched, paper sort of stale, woodiness (perhaps the herbal sage?). It reminds me of primary school and that rough, sugar/craft paper that you used to get, or a roughly pulped, jotter or exercise book cover. To be perfectly honest this is my least favourite aspect of this fragrance but are we due for another twist in the tale? Yes!! It comes in the form of the vetiver and leathery note/accord reemerging and giving more heft and making it much more enjoyable for me. I actually think that Germaine is a really good example of light and shade and balancing apposing aroma auras (if you like?) to make something cohesive and something I enjoy. A good start for me with Miguel's stuff but not something I'd rush to add to my collection.

Okay so I was mightily impressed by Golden Neroli, a really fantastic mixture of natural and futuristic, kinda minimal perfumery. Having said that many brands that rely heavily on their natural virtues are too minimalist and reliant on one amazing centrepiece whereas these feel a bit more like true compositions. The Labdanum in the name is a touch misleading but as I wear this I can't help but feeling without it this fragrance wouldn't be as good. I think it's working a catalyst in more of a supporting role, pulling everything together. It's not overt, you do get a bit when initially sprayed I'd say the opening is sweetly resinous but it soon reveals the true players in this scent. Patchouli clearly emerges, cloaked in a kind of metallic tinged, herbal aspect. This could be the clary sage listed? although it doesn't smell like the one I know from other fragrances or the EO material I have. However, after reapplying after several hours (not because it was a bad performer more to get the opening again) I have to say the opening has the herbal masculinity I hadn't picked up of first time, coupled with sweetness, it's actually extremely appealing almost heavenly to me. It actually smells a little reminiscent of golden neroli in that the citrus (which lasts throughout btw) has a bitter grapefruit and petitgrain herbal, green aspect to it. The orange note to me is undeniable too especially in the opening and blends fantastically with patchouli, a combo I have used in a creation of my own. Patchouli here is really lovely, light and lacking that overly chunky, chocolate or rubbery note you can get. This is a bright patch, with just the right amount of earth, I really like it a lot. This is an original composition but just because I like to do this, I'm going to give some examples of perfumes it evokes. Firstly Jo Malone Oud and Bergamot, the freshness the woodiness, the fact that it doesn't smell like oud or bergamot? Secondly, By Killian Straight to heaven, which is much darker and boozier etc... however the patchouli comes across with the same translucency. Thirdly, Lush Lord of Misrule a fragrance that is definitely heavier and spicier, more hippy and full bodied in it's patch dominance but has the citrus/herbal aspect of the Jo Malone O&B running throughout. Loved this. Only two from this line down and they are both superb.

Wow! I thought I loved Venenum kiss for one reason and it turns out I actually love it for another. When I tried it in store I was treated to what I perceived as quite a kitsch, pastiche of a fluffy, pink fragrance echoed by the colour of the perfume itself. It still is this hot pink Cadillac of a scent with an extremely fruity, Jammy rose accord in the opening clearly backed with vanilla, it’s crystal clear and almost too cloying and too much to bare after about 30 minutes. I’m not one for labelling a fragrance too feminine for being sweet and rosy but VK nearly had me beat. However it’s when the Base notes of creamy sweet sandalwood and vanilla and a heart of leathery and opulent saffron take over this fragrance transforms (and not even in smell because all this is there from the get go) with the rose dying back and everything else chiming in, exuding quality. There’s something modern about it that I love, it has an almost pop art attitude, technicolour and unabashed. I really like it, I must say.