Woah Oud 27 from Le Labo opens with an uncompromisingly massive boozy unpleasant clove accord. Settles for a moment then super, super animal civet, filthy warm amber and Oud...I think there's labdanum in here too. Personally I think it's madness but there's something about it that I want to like. The opening is a very acquired taste but as it dries down and becomes less musky, the Oud is more apparent because of the relative mellowing of other strong notes. Oud 27 is not proudly following in the time served tradition of Arabian perfumers instead blazing it's own contemporary trail and fittingly smelling like something conceived of in a laboratory. Not something I'd necessarily wear but you know what... My attitudes toward this sort of musky, powerhouse perfume are slowly changing and I actually enjoyed this in a strange way. Especially the woodier dry down when it gets a bit nicer and close to the skin. As much as I'm intrigued by Oud 27 and trying to be all open minded and challenged by it....the fact remains it generally smells bad to me and I'd never wear it. It's Le Labo as a house I have a problem with more than anything. I'm 4 into the 6 samples I got and not one that I've found to be innovative or original.

Instantly I thought this smelled like a lavender, almond and vanilla combination which is very pleasing. How about this Antico Caruso is an elegant blend of the best bits of from three well known fragrances. A ménage a trois of sorts between Le Male, Givenchy Pi and Amouage Reflection. I think that's the most concise set of comparisons I've ever made during a review. It's what Le Male should smell like but goes awful on my skin and it has the deep almond accord of givenchy Pi without the sour edge. Finally it has the class and sophistication of Reflection without the relative complexity. This is a nice fragrance that has phenomenal lasting power it really is impressive. If you like any of the fragrances I've mentioned and want something similar for whatever reason then I'd recommend you get it, I won't be.

This is an outstanding fresh fragrance the initial burst of sharp grapefruit and bergamot is lovely. It's backed by cedar and vetiver and a little musk. The heart of the fragrance has petitgrain and as it dries down a bit the white floral nature of orange flower. In fact the white floral accord gets stronger as the citrus dies down but never becomes too much. To say the citrus dies down is true but it never looses that zing and that's impressive. Bergamote 22 is perfectly executed, well balanced but doesn't compel me to buy a bottle, I'd rather wear Acqua di Gio or even Acqua di Parma colonia as a much cheaper option. I'm not slating it though if you have the money this is as good a citrus as you can get, long lasting and utterly clean. A niche citrus worthy of purchase has to bowl me over and not many do. They really are few and far between, this comes close but not quite.

More than a passing resemblance to musc ravegeur but somehow less intrusive. It's animalistic musk and labdanum in the top but frankly not what I expected from a fragrance based around that note and has it as a namesake. Slightly resinous and with more than a touch of vanilla, it really feels nice to wear and quite delicate. Weirdly enough 12 months ago I don't know if I would've liked this scent without first having grown to love Frederick Malle MR. This is tame by comparison, soft, creamy and sweet so maybe I would've liked it anyway as the musk is no where near as pungent as musc ravegeur. Nor does it have the sweet, spice of cinnamon although it does have a slight hint of clove but again no where near MR standards. Long lasting the civet tinged, muscenone drydown is nice and warm, quality all around but not worth it for me as I have Roucels masterpiece and I'll stick with that for my hit of outrageously sexy musk!

This juice is yet another keeper from Phaedon they're working magic just judging by the ones I've tried. The opening to Sable Marocain is madness and super super sweet, smells like jelly beans but not as sharp maybe more like jelly babies. Anyway as that settles after a few minutes the cophu balm and cacao come into play and comparisons with L'instant de Guerlain extreme as Chorando mentions below are totally understandable and I thought the same sfter a few minutes of sniffing. It's more of a glancing nod in lidge's direction than a copycat though. This fragrance is about an amber accord, dense wood, labdanum and vetiver and the drydown is almost unrecognisable from that fruity sweet opening. I doff my cap to Phaedon again for creating a nice fragrance but doesn't blow me away and I probably wouldn't wear it myself. Just a quick update deep into the drydown and I can really smell it still emanating from my skin it doesn't smell bad, I've just grown tired of it extremely quickly. It's become a murky blur no roughness or sharpness left and I'm not enjoying it.

Woweee what Strength! This takes no prisoners at all unrelenting dark, dark, green forrest magnificent. The black, Gothic juice finally in my possession it reminds me of a jar of black olives. I could speak about the naturalistic fir, rotten pine needle laden Forrest floor all day. Instead I'm going to speak to the burnt but not smokey, sawdust element which takes me back to school in woodwork class. Norne smells like singed MDF (couldn't be less natural!) or friction burned wood. It has a deep resinous quality and is totally unique smelling with the spiciness and perception of smoke giving a meditative incense vibe. This composition seems simple, and is really...Norne provokes, varying but definite responses which give a air of complexity. I love it and it can stain me all it wants, I'd wear it... not sure when though? The silage and longevity from this extrait are massive.

Love the smell of this it's a masterful blend of grapefruit citrus notes in the top, blending with a lovely calming lavender, thyme and vanilla accord. Invasion Barbare is top quality juice well executed, as it dries down I can smell the violet peeping through so all in all a nice sophisticated and safe composition. Just to get things in perspective though I think the price is utterly ridiculous and it's a rare thing for me to complain about price because I've been known to splash out silly money on fragrances I love. However non of the MDCI Parfum's I've tried with the exception of Cuir Garamante have been show stoppers and that's important when it comes to parting with so much cash. The resin busts are very cool and I have to admit I desperately want one for my collection but they're a total rip off £240 for 60ml Bust version flacon. My dilemma is between the similarly priced Cuir Garamante and By Killian Incense Oud which at least has a re-fillable and very nice flacon which comes in a beautiful lockable box. I'm usually not motivated by 'frills' but sometimes collecting is as much about style as it is about substance. Update: This fragrance is a very enjoyable experience I've had a lovely wear from it today and I've now exhausted my sample. I respect this juice for it's elegance and development over several hours it's just what I needed today a breath of fresh air. Really quiet on the sillage front but surrounded me in a gentle mist of complex sophistication. Lovely stuff but still not a show stopper, I can understand why people love it though.

Dzongkha is a delightful fragrance it's dry, spicy, slightly smokey and above all unique. The first thing I got from it was the earthy spice and vetiver combo which put me in mind of another Bertrand Duchaufour creation for L'Artisan, Timbuktu. Then the main note for me is tea and cardamom it's a strained english tea right in the heart of the fragrance quite rough though still refreshing. But wait! Yet another transition in the dry down...All the spice fades to the back and a soft iris with a touch of leather appears more prominent. I deliberately had no prior knowledge of the components of this fragrance and it was a welcome surprise to test my nose with something so easily decipherable. I really like this fragrance it's so manly and interesting and honestly was a relief after a few disappointments from this house.

Bergamot and Guava bursting forth from this juice what a tropical opening. I greatly anticipated this fragrance and it hasn't disappointed one bit. An exotic cocktail, Antigua feels like wearing bermuda shorts and the loudest hawaiian shirt complete with a lei around your neck! As such may not be to everyones taste but this just screams me all over and a recent addition to my collection was an oud perfume with a guava top note and that is incredible. Patchouli, vetiver and a musky base... simple really. As perfect for summer as something like Creed's Virgin Island Water but with better longevity & projection also crucially, much better value for money. I love Antigua and as I suspected Phaedon is turning out to be a real quality house offering awesome fragrances at competitive prices.

WOW!!! what an opening! This was the first Andy Tauer fragrance I ever tried and it will always leave a lasting impression on me. How leather can be so full on and strong yet elegant at the same time I don't know but Lonestar memories seems to manage it. This is a dirty, filthy, spiced leather. I picture a guy working on his motorbike, smoking a cigerette, leather jacket hanging in a garage surrounded by oily rags and grubby overalls. (Or the Cowboy imagery that it's based on fits fine too!) Smokiness galore, resinous too with the earthy, natural, root aroma. Again not one for beginners in the fragrance game a leather of the highest quality though and in perfumery terms a brave masterpiece. I'll have to try it again to make sure but I don't think it's something I'd wear. I love it & respect it but prefer L'air du desert Marocain because it speaks to me personally. Just knowing Lonestar memories exists fills me with joy!

Re-Review....Just adding some thoughts on this juice as I'm wearing my last sample today. I'm still 100% on board with it and although I noticed the likeness first time around I never realised how delicate and LDDM like the drydown is. It opens with smoke but Lonestar is not nearly as smokey as I first thought, that's no criticism in actual fact I like I like it more and more now. I think that might be me becoming more desensitized to smokey perfume after trying things like Profumum Roma Fumidus. Good sillage, projection and Longevity but I have L'air du desert Marocain and I don't think I need this one as well although I think it's just as good if not a little better.