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My Signature
310 reviews
A hooded figure watching from beyond the shadows, but shadows of what, and why in a place no shadow should be? The insidious intrusion, the confounding juxtaposition, the thing found in the wrong place. The stirring of things best left unstirred. Resinous orchid musk, feral balmy, rotting-earthed humidity. Milky murk, like looking through the eyes of the dead. Honeyed spices part buried, cinnamon-cardamom-disinterment deferred, the ground is wrong, a terror in the terroir. The boundless and hideous unknown, a carnal effluvium of the eerie and the weird, reinterpreted as a not-too-bad fragrance. Actually, kinda lovely.
Myrrh Shadow 403 smells like the Crypt Keeper's signature ice cream flavor, an inexplicable combination of sour medicinal powders and resinous, demulcent sweetness. Apothecary ice cream served in dusty parlors where softly spiced cola syrup was dispensed by skeletal hands, bittersweet olde-timey remedies dispensed, ironically, in a dusty tomb lined with crumbling marble shelves and cobweb-draped medicine bottles, stone walls saturated with the balsamic phantasmagoria of centuries-old incense. It vaguely recalls the whispery smoke and mysterious veils of Annick Goutal Myrrh Ardente - except Myrrh Shadow 403 emerged from the freezer creamier, sweeter, colder: mystical tree resins churned into midnight, ghoulish horror host gelato.
Incense Rori feels like building an altar to the temple of dreams - not that it smells like any of these things individually, but the way someone in a dream can be your mother even if they look nothing like her, the golden balsamic woodiness conjures walnut and mulberry and rosewood; the creamy gentle spice suggests whipped orange blossom honey, marigold-infused sandalwood attar, ink perfumed with clove and honey and musk. Applied before sleep and still whispering the next afternoon, it becomes a nightly ritual for dream incubation, precious enough to justify its price not for special occasions but because sleep itself is the special occasion, the potent pantheon of dreams deserving its own sacred preparations.
Can an ineffable thing also be a platonic ideal? Tissue-thin blossoms suspended in pale evening light; bees' dreams of endlessly circling invisible nectar sources, the unfurling verdancy of early spring touched with the faintest breath of honey, petals so delicate and precisely what linden should smell like that you can only point and say "there, that." It's everything it should be, and only just that.
Armani Privé Bois d'Encens: A peppery craggle of stones where incense once burned or might burn yet, vetiver roots drinking the ghost of unburnt smoke, cedar planks weathered by ceremonies that left no ash, flint poised, tinder arranged, the space between intention and flame where autumn's last bitter breath meets winter's sterile promise, austere echoes creaking through lofty spaces that know neither warmth nor chill, dusty light filtered through vacant windows, fresh in the way that morning air tastes sharp and sour before the sun softens its edges, the potential for incense hovering like a prayer never spoken aloud.
Though at first glance, it might not be immediately apparent, but Todd Hido's photography comes to mind when I smell this - an atmosphere of ordinary spaces shedding their daytime purpose to become threshold places, a pause in time between being and non-being, a thing neither fully present nor absent.
Fig appearing as quick pencil sketch, half-erased; floating vanilla blossom clouds dissolving in May breezes; soft laundry musks in cotton tees worn threadbare from a hundred gentle cycles; the ghost of last summer's jasmine tangling through the latticework of dreams; cyan swimming pool polaroids, chlorine filtered and faded.
An anemic rose receiving a transfusion from a fainting couch.
Sweet grass crushed beneath wriggling toes burrowing into honeyed earth, the loamy green must of spring's waking breath, Neko Case singing "maybe sparrow" plaintive at dawn in a golden grain of light-fall, wildflower valleys thrumming slow-footed with moss, burnished dew pearling, sun-soaked syrup suspended on unfurling ferns.
Cedar soda with juniper bitters. Water drawn from a limestone well surrounded by briar and bramble, thicket and thorn. Aerated ice chips that shatter between molars. A single cypress cone crushed between fingers. Cigarette ash that never quite made it to the tray. The condensation ring left on wood that won't ever completely fade. Cold metal keys pressed against warm lips. The sharp intake of breath when the cosmic chords of Alice Coltrane's harp arpeggios cascade through space, suspending time. Morning sky like a scrim of quartz; a little light, just enough to see by
This is a fragrance that reminds me of finding the perfect vintage vanity set at an estate sale—immaculate crystal bottles and silver-backed brushes arranged just so—but when you lean closer, you notice someone has etched a razor-sharp critic's observation into the mirror's edge. It's not vandalism exactly, but a deliberate counterpoint to all that polish.
It carries itself with immaculate poise but sidesteps the accommodating softness we often expect from classic perfumery. Intensely sharp and dry and green, with an earthy, rootsy powderiness that feels pulled from some garden's underground mysteries. There's an acrid verdancy about it that reminds me of stumbling across a line from a Margaret Atwood poem or a Patti Smith lyric etched into pristine bathroom tile - the juxtaposition feels ridiculous considering we're talking about a Chanel perfume, but that's genuinely how it makes me feel. Alongside this runs what I can only describe as a leathery, grassy woodiness that makes me think of expensive boots walking purposefully through wild gardens.
That sour metallic tang and bitter effervescence feels unmistakably vintage to me, though I couldn't tell you exactly why. But what keeps drawing me back isn't just this quality—it's how the scent seems to subvert its own refined elegance with what I can only call a punky funk. Like costume jewelry that's outlived its original owner—slightly tarnished, impossibly elegant, carrying what feels like decades of stories. The fragrance exists in what I experience as a kind of gloomy luminosity, like sunlight filtering through grimy stained glass onto marble floors—both austere and achingly tender at once. It shifts on skin throughout the day, revealing facets that appear and recede like carefully guarded confidences. Sometimes I catch a glimpse of moss-covered stone steps leading to a garden where everything useful grows—medicinal herbs, not decorative flowers. Other times, it morphs into something mineral and cool, like running your fingers along marble that's been sitting in shadow. Its most fascinating moments come when warmth breaks through all that greenness—not a golden warmth, but something more like the heat signature of intellectual fervor, the temperature of thoughts running too quick and deep to share casually.
At first wear, I mistook this scent for a riddle I couldn't reconcile—sharp yet powdery, I couldn't wrap my head around it. Over time, I've come to understand it as a secret history of deliberate contradiction and precise nonconformity—crisp, clear, uncompromising yet undeniably intimate. The vintage vanity set isn't just beautiful; it belonged to someone who carved her thoughts into surfaces never meant to be marked. The metallic tang smells like the tip of a brass pen that's signed verdicts and villanelles with equal gravity. When I wear No. 19 now, I no longer search for resolution to its riddle—I simply appreciate the clarity of its question.