Lune Féline Extrait is the epitome of a great vanilla fragrance - it’s intensely sweet and opulent, fantastically building on the original. Initially it opens very warm and spicy with cinnamon, cardamom and pink pepper. A hint of woody, salty freshness then lingers in the background from cedar and ambergris. From here the vanilla shines through, which is the star of the show. It’s soft, sweet and delicate, and yet somehow also dark, rugged and slightly earthy. This is likely from the styrax and Peru Balsam which gives the scent its addictive animalic qualities. This fragrance smells very much like an amber however lacks the required notes to be considered one. Nevertheless this is a fantastic vanilla and really demonstrates the creatively complex side to vanilla-centric perfumery. An absolute pleasure to experience.

Colonia Oud epitomises the combination of classic Italian perfumery with clean, contemporary western oud. It opens with a juicy burst of bergamot and orange, alongside a refreshingly spicy pairing of amyris and coriander. This is soon followed by a clean-cut, modern, synthetic oud which is smoothed round the edges, and mellowed to match the continental style of Acqua di Parma. Combine this with a soft leather, backed up by sandalwood and cedar - and you’re left with a scent as fresh and invigorating as it is dark and brooding. This fragrance stays true to the heritage of the original Colonia, utilising darker notes to take it that step further. It’s great for casual everyday wear as well as formal occasions, and would work very well as a signature scent for a classical individual.

Cartier Oud Vanille might be my favourite 2023 release so far. As with the rest of the fragrances in this line, there are only 2 main notes that make up the scent profile, however that doesn’t render this scent boring or simplistic in the slightest. The oud is clean, musky and slightly animalic - it’s a step above typical westernised oud and really presents the note in a bare-bones, natural way. On the other hand, the vanilla is soft, creamy, fluffy and exceptionally smooth. It juxtaposes the oud perfectly and fills the air around you with a fantastic contrast of sweetness and bitterness. This is fast becoming my favourite vanilla in my collection, the quality of ingredients here is phenomenal and the blending is superb. Definitely one to check out for all the vanilla lovers out there.

I - Woody Floral definitely lives up to its name of being a floral, however unfortunately lacks the woody aspect. It opens initially very bright, fresh and invigorating as clean citruses of bergamot, mandarin and grapefruit combine with pink and black pepper. From here the scent becomes dominated by an accord of red berries which are intensely juicy and fruity. The pink pepper and red berries take charge throughout the life of the scent, with gentle touches of rose and jasmine. In the base there is claimed to be patchouli, vanilla, oud and vetiver, however these are not present in the slightest unfortunately. The rose in here reminds me of L - Floral Chypre, which uses the same thick, sweet, almost candied rose accord. Woody Floral is a pleasant and enjoyable fragrance to wear if you like red berries and rose, however I feel it lacks depth and development. It doesn’t warrant the high price tag and leaves you wanting more, personally I would choose Floral Chypre instead.

Rock Rose is a fragrance that had so much promise, but unfortunately fell flat. It opens with a messy concoction of assorted citrus fruits, namely bergamot, grapefruit, orange as well as apple. This is accompanied by green, soapy aromatics of spearmint, lavender and clary sage. Other than this, there are no other prominent notes in the composition, and the overall perfume you’re left with is very disappointing. As others have said, this has a very strong similarity to Mont Blanc Legend in that it’s a very typical fresh, bubblegum, shower-gel type of scent with only marginally higher quality. For a fragrance that costs almost £500 for 50ml, you would expect fantastic creativity and quality - and while Clive Christian usually puts out brilliant creations, this one sticks out like a sore thumb. If you want to smell like a 14 year old boy for stupid money, then this is the scent to go for.

I was expecting more from Pardon - partly due to the praise surrounding it, but also I hoped the fantastic creativity and quality of ingredients from other Nasomatto releases would carry over with this one. Unfortunately I’m a bit disappointed. Pardon opens straight away with a dry, dusty and slightly animalic oud which smells one-dimensional and flat. There’s a hint of magnolia and other florals, although very subtle, and a slight touch of spicy cinnamon. This scent profile then stays rather linear for the entire life of the scent. Personally I was hoping for the chocolate to be more prominent but to me it’s almost non existent, all I’m left with is a dry, simple oud which feels flat and uninspired with little to no depth.

41 Burlington Arcade is a very safe and masculine scent which has some unique notes, but overall settles into something not so exciting. It opens with some gentle medley of citrus - grapefruit and lemon namely, alongside an absolute boatload of white pepper. The first time I smelled this it made me sneeze from the strength of the pepper in the opening. From here, thankfully the pepper settles down, and reveals a heart of warm, dry spices. Liquorice and nutmeg are cosy and sharp, while cardamom and pimento are smooth and fiery. This is backed up by a gentle hint of incense and a classical masculine base of Vetiver and cedar. There’s no denying this smells good, but it for me it lacks a certain excitement and journey. The combination of cardamom, nutmeg and pimento resting on Vetiver and cedar remind me of Clive Christian No. 1 - the quality is not quite the same but for the price difference this is a good alternative.

Nuit de Feu is one of my absolute favourite incense fragrances and I want a bottle so badly. Structurally, this is one of the more simplistic scents from Louis Vuitton, but that doesn’t make it boring in the slightest. This is an overdose of brooding, smoky incense backed up by an incredibly smooth and rustic leather. Alongside this is a thick, resinous dose of oud and a hint of animalic musk to create something primal and alluring. The quality of ingredients is fantastic as usual, and the blending and master craft of perfumery here is brilliant. Definitely one of the more underrated releases from the brand, won’t match up to everyone’s tastes but for me this is an exquisite perfume with exceptional lasting power.

Fougere Royale is the original fougere, it defined an entirely new fragrance family which countless scents have drawn inspiration from and I have to respect it for that. It opens straight away with a heady burst of lavender, the most iconic note of the fougere. This is accompanied by refreshing bergamot, and a touch of green chamomile. The heart is softened around the edges, imbued by a collection of clean florals - namely geranium and carnation which add a gentle green spiciness. From here, the scent settles very well into a soft, creamy oakmoss base alongside sage and patchouli. This fragrance is undeniably masculine and classic, it’s one of the all time greats and will always be remembered for its cultural importance. However, the longevity on the EDP is shockingly bad and for me personally, Scandal and Invasion Barbare are my preferred fougeres.