fragrances
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530 reviews
Stunned is an absolutely diabolical excuse for a fragrance. Straight away you’re blasted by this badly composed mix of myrrh, clove and nutmeg which is warm and spicy in a way but that cannabis note just takes everything into a harsh, synthetic and medicinal direction. There’s a strong sense of vanilla in here, which is very sweet but also smells very cheap. Other than that there’s not much going on in this scent, it’s very abrasive and rough around the edges - certain to give you a headache very easily. I really don’t understand this scent. The quality of materials comes across so obviously cheap and lazy, it’s like there was no thought put into the overall scent profile. A definite hate for me which doesn’t come round often for me.
Chinatown is a pure and sophisticated concoction celebrating the innocent beauty of Chinese florals. A fantasy note of peach blossom leads the way upon initial spray, which is soft and creamy with a surge of soapiness. This clean, indolic white floral effect is supercharged by the addition of peony and orange blossom. From here, tuberose provides a thick and waxy effect whilst gardenia offers gentle green touches in the background. The base consists of a smooth, creamy and sweet woodiness from vanilla and sandalwood, whilst cardamom adds a warming fuzzy effect. I’m not a huge fan of fragrances which focus so much on white florals, but if I was then this would definitely be a must have. The quality is fantastic and the overall scent is very enjoyable, just personally not my style.
Essence Rare surprised me, simply because it doesn’t feel like Roja’s usual style. It opens up with a juicy cocktail of sharp, tangy, rindy fruits including blood orange, raspberry and blackcurrant. Usually when Roja utilises fruits they come across very gentle, powdery and soft whereas this scent is very bold and zesty. A floral heart provides some powdery touches to the fruits but mostly paved way for a base of green, vegetal nuances mainly coming from the palma rosa and patchouli. There’s a hint of creaminess from the oakmoss and Sandalwood which helps to smooth everything out but this is very subtle. I think Essence Rare is a fantastic scent if you love very juicy, tangy and rindy fruit notes in your perfume. Personally this is not a love for me but I can see the appeal, there are many others from the Pierre de Velay line I would rather own.
Taif Aoud is one of the best interpretations of Taif Rose I’ve come across so far. It opens with a surprisingly refreshing and vibrant duo of airy aldehydes and tangy bergamot, alongside gents whispers of clean jasmine and soft ylang. From here the stars of the show, that incredible Taif Rose backed up by geranium, begin to take over and draw you in deeper. After a couple of minutes, a green spiciness begins to awaken in the background. The warming spicy aroma of clove alongside a bitter, earthy touch of cassis and patchouli is delightfully enveloping and pairs beautifully with the airy rose. There is a touch of woody incense in the dry down but I don’t actually detect any hint of the original Aoud scent profile. This is actually one of my favourite rose fragrances, it’s not so oud heavy as the name might suggest and it doesn’t seem to tie in to the rest of the Aoud line in uniform but nevertheless it smells fantastic. It’s like standing in a hot, dry desert with the sun beaming down on you, whilst gentle wafts of majestic Taif Rose bellow through the dusty desert air. Magnificent.
Myrrhe & Encens does exactly what it says on the bottle, and really lives up to its name. Initially it opens with a contrasting combination of bitter citrus and spicy cinnamon which is a little bit off putting in my opinion, but after less than a minute it starts to transform for the better. This scent is an overdose of myrrh. It celebrates this enchanting resin in all of its beautiful facets. The myrrh here is dark and smoky, dry and thick with an almost chewy element to it. The incense elevates this smokiness in the best way possible - it’s not old and churchy, but dry and subtle as it should be. Combine this with a fantastically earthy patchouli and you’re left with something gorgeously smooth and masculine. I am hugely surprised by this fragrance. It was gifted to me and I had never heard of this house before but I’m very keen to explore more of their offerings after this. The quality is fantastic for the price, it smells incredibly natural and well blended to the point that this could easily be bottled as a ‘luxury fragrance’.
Parfum de La Nuit 1 - ‘The Predator’ This is the epitome of dark amber - it’s rich and sultry, bold and uncompromising without losing any signature warmth and allure. This scent revolves around a classic amber accord composed of vanilla, benzoin and labdanum at its core. The resinous element coming from benzoin is elevated significantly by styrax, which is thick, chewy and almost gummy which I find to be absolutely addictive. Despite the warming Amber at the heart of this scent, it has a darker element in two different forms. Firstly is the animalic: civet and castoreum of the highest quality are joined by heavy doses of tolu balsam which ensue a dark, mysterious and almost smoky energy. Secondly is the spicy: a strong dose of clove is joined by earthy patchouli and woods to create a dry and masculine base like no other. The overall scent profile is very mature and incredibly unique, it takes confidence to pull this off. In a strange way, I get a slight cola vibe lingering in the distance; rather than being fizzy and sharp like Enigma, it’s very soft, dry and smooth almost like flat cola (in a good way!). I can see why this scent is nicknamed ‘The Predator’ - it truly embodies the very essence of someone who knows exactly what they want, and knows they can get it. With this scent you don’t allure others towards you, you take charge and initiate the chase of attraction yourself.
Misia is one of the best violet scents I’ve ever had the pleasure of smelling. Upon first spray it’s like being covered with Parma Violet sweets - the violet is front and centre with its strong powdery elements, with a juiciness coming from litchi and a touch of airy aldehydes. As it begins to settle on the skin, a dry and fluffy note of peach idles in the background as rose begins to shine ever so gently. The core of this fragrance revolves around the most effervescent violet and orris combination. The delicate powderiness of the violet compliments the smooth buttery elements of the orris, with hidden touches of leather in the base. Misia is pure makeup powder vibes to the max, it’s absolutely enchanting in every single way. It’s probably my favourite violet note I’ve ever smelled, second only to Roja Great Britain which takes the cake for me personally. This is my absolute favourite fragrance from Chanel by far, and even as a man I adore wearing this.
Great Britain is the most opulent and regal olfactory experience I’ve ever come across. It opens fairly bright initially with subtle hints of citrus and sage, before a delicately powdery touch of mesmerising violet tingles at the senses. Rose and Jasmine are present, providing an eloquently airy and vibrant floral aspect to the scent, however this is short lived to my nose. The star of the show here, on the one hand, is the most magnificent leather accord I’ve had the pleasure of putting my nose on. Comprised primarily of labdanum, it’s beautifully smooth and refined - like the soft brown leather inside the Houses of Parliament. On the other hand you’ve got this incredibly addictive orris note which is buttery smooth and powdery, transcending the scent into something otherworldly yet comforting. In the base there’s a general atmosphere of fluffy, musky, creamy elements likely coming from the oakmoss, ambrette and carrot seeds which elevates the powderiness even further. I adore this perfume with all my heart, it is truly the best scent I’ve ever smelled in my life and I’m incredibly grateful to finally own a bottle. This is by far the most incredible take on a leathery Chypre and whilst it does bear similarity to Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, I find Great Britain to have exceptional depth and quality beyond what Chanel can provide. This is a true work of art and a modern classic.
Fetish Pour Homme is a masterful creation for the most confident of men. Opening very bright initially with lemon and lime, at first you’re not sure what you’ve got yourself into. As the soft florals begin to make way for what can only be described as an intensely rich, dirty and animalistic scent, you begin to become excited. A powerful leathery labdanum is joined by heaps of the highest quality castoreum, and an overdose of spicy cinnamon. Three dominating notes all fighting for attention, with the lime running through the background as a refreshing constant. The other notes listed don’t really stand out to me, likely just providing further depth and warmth. This fragrance really impresses me as it combines two strong fragrance families - chypre and amber. The classical elements of the Chypre structure combined with the warming Amber accord in the base take my breath away every time I smell it. I love animalic perfumes and this is one of my absolute favourites of all time.
Trying to put Sweetie Aoud into words is an incredibly challenging feat, as nothing out there smells even remotely close to it. As soon as you spray it you’re transported to a classy French patisserie in the heart of Paris - hot, buttery pastries and burnt sugar fill the air of this quaint little shop, I picture marbled floors and luxurious leather seats in the background. As it settles on the skin it takes on this very warm and spicy cardamom note, accompanied by a dry and woody oud. An intense concoction of various resins and balsams add to the ‘smoky’ element of the scent, alongside soft florals and a smooth base of labdanum. Usually I’m fairly good at recognising certain notes but for the most part here I’m just trying to ascertain how the notes listed are working together. You genuinely cannot pick out any singular note. Sweetie Aoud is one of the most masterful creations from Roja Dove in my eyes, demonstrating talent and expertise beyond most of us. This truly is the best gourmand I’ve ever smelled.