fragrances
reviews
530 reviews
Harrods Aoud suprised me. It doesn’t smell as I expected it to if I’m being completely honest. It opens with this green, airy and almost soapy trio of citrus, aldehydes and artemisia before developing an iconic Mai Rose at the heart. Not long after, you’re greeted by a very smooth and spicy cinnamon alongside a thick and resinous dose of frankincense. As the scent begins to settle, that’s when you start to notice the oud. This scent doesn’t come across as thick or oily as the other Aouds, and considering the note breakdown also lists cypriol, patchouli and guaiac wood (materials all used to make an oud accord) im wondering how much oud has actually been used here, if any. Overall you’re left with a very masculine and aromatic scent profile with deep, earthy woods and soapy florals to contrast. The quality here is obviously fantastic, but all in all the actual scent profile isn’t my favourite. If I found a bottle for a good price I’d go for it but this is by far my least favourite from the Aoud line. It’s a lovely woody masculine scent, but it seems to lack Roja’s signature flair.
Jubilation 40 opens very much in the same way as the original Jubilation - a thick, resinous and slightly smoky dose of frankincense, opoponax and myrrh is contrasted and elevated by the most addicting fruity sillage of sweet blackberry and juicy blackcurrant. What I notice with this flanker is the honey-like sweetness seems to be toned down compared to the original; instead being replaced by a slightly green, herbal and vegetal aroma reliant on an array of different notes including davana, rosemary, bay leaf and patchouli. Alongside this slightly green, resinous heart of the scent there’s an addictive warm spiciness coming from cinnamon and clove, which paves the way for an alluring woody base of oud and cedar. This fragrance is incredible. Jubilation XXV was already a mature and sophisticated scent but this release takes that maturity a step further with the aromatic additions to the note breakdown. I think this scent smells fantastic, but personally I actually prefer the intense sweetness of the original - to me it’s more playful and inviting.
Tutù Blanc aims to create a brighter, more delicate version of the original - an ode to femininity as the marketing goes. Primarily, this scent is dominated by the stark contrast of coconut and apple. The coconut is dry and nutty, whilst the apple is juicy and refreshing. The juicy aspect is heightened through an array of other fruits such as blackcurrant, grapefruit and raspberry, whilst the dry sweetness keeps up thanks to vanilla and musk. This is a pleasant and refreshing scent but I wouldn’t say it’s anything groundbreaking. There seems to be a reoccurring theme in Gritti’s White Collection - and that is the contrast of sweet, juicy fruits with a base of sweet vanilla and musk. To be fair this does smell pleasant, but I find it very forgettable.
Chantilly is an intensely sweet and tropical summery scent with an assorted array of different fruits all fighting for attention. The main thing I’m picking up on is the strawberry and melon, with the citruses resting in the background. From here, a powdery coconut and vanilla sets in which is joined by a juicy apple which leaves you with a scent that is both dry, powdery and sweet, yet also juicy and refreshing. As there is no raw material to be derived from strawberries and apples, these have to be recreated synthetically which I feel in this case could have been done better. Overall the scent smells pleasant, but it comes across much more synthetic and a bit cheaper than the others I’ve tried from this line. A nice fragrance, but nothing exciting or particularly interesting in my opinion.
Dame de L’île really intrigues me, like I’ve almost smelled it before but haven’t at the same time. The contrast of musk and citrus is both captivating and strange, but I sort of enjoy it. Bright, zesty notes of bergamot and lime combine with floral nuances of jasmine and rose which provides a refreshing backbone to the scent. A touch of salty ambergris gives way to a thick, dry and fluffy synthetic musk which is significantly sweetened up by vanilla. To me, this sort of achieves what Erba Pura set out to do. They don’t really smell similar, but you can see the same intention is present. This is refreshingly pleasant yet unique enough to stand out from the crowd.
Adèle is a fairly standard and straightforward osmanthus-based white floral scent, however I must say it’s done well. The osmanthus itself is very soft and smooth, almost leathery but in the most delicate way. Combine this with a sweet, bubblegum-like tuberose and green touches of narcissus and you’re left with an eloquent medley of thick white florals - then elevated by the subtlest whisper of jasmine and rose. The osmanthus in here almost comes across slightly tropical at times, giving the scent a very refreshing and addictively sweet yet very much floral scent profile. This is probably too simplistic for me to consider owning a bottle but if you love osmanthus this is one to look out for.
Warek is a very interesting scent. This is a pleasant fragrance which revolves primarily around rose, saffron and oud. A scent profile that has been done so many times, and yet this one does offer something different in my eyes. Rather than being overly jammy and sweet with the rose and saffron, I find they act as supporting notes to the brooding oud and smooth leather. This darkness has a slight bitter greenness about it from earthy patchouli and guaiac wood which I find rather addicting. Overall this is one of the more impressive scents from Kajal that I’ve tried. This one seems to go in its own direction and smell genuinely really good. It’s still not brilliant enough for me to buy a bottle but I will enjoy wearing my decant nevertheless.
Dahab is an intensely refreshing and tropical scent which I imagine would work brilliantly in the high heat. It’s not the most complex fragrance, it focuses almost entirely around a juicy combination of green apple and passion fruit. The apple itself does come across a bit overly synthetic but is refreshing and pleasant nonetheless. The passion fruit on the other hand amplifies that juiciness and brings that tropical element to the scent. From here there are soft musks and woods in the base but they are very subtle. This is a pleasant enough fragrance. I can see how the simplicity of the scent would make it a perfect pick for the summer, but personally I like my summer scents to smell more natural. This isn’t a bad fragrance at all but it doesn’t smell like it’s price tag.
I’ve seen a lot of hype around Almaz online so I was excited to try this one, but I have to say I don’t really get it. This scent has three noticeable aspects to it: the first is the refreshing juiciness, vivid blackcurrant and an array of citruses bring quite a pleasing freshness to the scent which is both satisfying and enjoyable. The second is the sweet, fruity florals - a strong dose of raspberry is joined by subtle powdery florals which to me add a slightly feminine vibe. Thirdly is the gourmand: thick, creamy vanilla and sugar dominate the base of the scent which really ramps up the sweetness. Overall this is a pleasant fragrance, I can see why people like it but good lord is it sweet. It’s not the best sweetness either in my opinion as it’s very synthetic to the nose. In my opinion I find this smells a lot cheaper than what the asking price actually is.
Alujain is a fairly standard take on a typical rose-oud fragrance. The rose dominates the scent quite strongly, it’s there from the get go and seems to linger for the duration of the scent’s life. This rose comes across quite synthetic and jammy, it smells nice but not very natural unfortunately. The next thing you notice is the oud. This does come across rather synthetic and doesn’t seem like the highest quality oud accord either, but has a subtle fecal character about it perhaps to seem more like the real thing somehow. All of this is backed up by generic sweet, creamy woodiness and musk. Alujain is a pleasant fragrance but I’m not overly impressed by it. This isn’t a scent that you will remember or be amazed by, it smells good but that’s all it does. Little to no depth to it unfortunately.