fragrances
reviews
530 reviews
Rêverie de Bergamote is less about the fresh and airy side of bergamot we’re used to in most perfumes, and more celebrates the rich and rindy dirtiness of the citrus fruit. Vibrant bursts of bergamot are joined by gentle hints of rindy orange and green, herbal additions of basil, artemisia, rosemary and lavender. From here a rich and heady geranium adds to the array of sharp citruses and herbs, before settling into an aromatic and leathery base. I pick up a subtle hint of cumin, which seems to have been used just to elevate the dirty rindy nature of the bergamot. A base of earthy Vetiver and patchouli are joined by moss and woods to create a gorgeously masculine base. This is a scent which I really enjoyed discovering, it takes you on a journey and offers up a different take to bergamot which we usually don’t get to see in most perfumes. If you’re a true lover of bergamot this is a must try.
What can be said about Pacific Lime, except for its beautiful simplicity and joyful scent profile. This is probably one of my favourite lime fragrances I’ve come across, but to be fair there aren’t loads of lime-forward scents to choose from. The bright, refreshing and zingy nature of the lime is joined by a juicy and rindy lemon which blend perfectly together. A touch of clean eucalyptus brings a soft soapiness to the scent, whilst creamy coconut and a tiny touch of mint whisk you away to tropical lands unknown. Despite the simplicity of this scent, I really enjoy it. It’s one of those fragrances that’s so enjoyable to wear and lifts your mood instantly, I can imagine this working amazingly well in the scorching heat of the summer.
Semi Bespoke 24 is an intensely sweet and feminine floral gourmand. It’s rich and heady, yet light and delicious in all the right ways. As soon as you spray it you’re whisked away by the sweet juiciness of raspberries, contrasted by the dry nuttiness of candied almonds. There’s an uplifting brightness of fleeting lemon and bergamot, whilst the entire scent profile is smoothed and balanced out by an array of thick, powdery florals including heliotrope, wisteria and rose. There’s hints of sweet tonka and ever so gentle whispers of warm spices in the base, but for the most part the scent profile doesn’t change too much. Personally I’m not a fan of raspberry notes, in most cases I can’t stand them. However I must say that the raspberry in here is gorgeous, everything is smoothed out to perfection, but unfortunately it’s still not a scent I’d pay £750 for.
Semi Bespoke 23 is a gorgeously masculine and intriguing woody aromatic scent. It opens with a powerfully green, earthy and herbal concoction of oregano, thyme and basil, which is freshened up by the vibrant kick of bergamot and gentle florals. Not long after spraying, an explosion of thick and heady frankincense takes over. This chewy resinous aspect is furthered by a leather labdanum and creamy sandalwood, all whilst maintaining a sweet warm spiciness of clove and vanilla. As it settles on the skin a rich woody base of oud and cypriol emerge, alongside earthy patchouli, sharp cedar and pine. This scent is gorgeous, however it bears a strong similarity to PDV4, just without the rum accord. I can’t deny how good this smells and would be a bit amongst woody aromatic lovers, but the value for money just isn’t there when PDV4 is of the same quality for a better price.
Semi Bespoke 10 is a stunning aromatic spicy fragrance, with hints of creamy Chypre qualities. Initially you’re greeted by the smooth warmth of coriander and cardamom, contrasted by the sweet and refreshing bursts of creamy peach and tangy mandarin orange. From here, as the scent becomes enveloped in a thick and powdery cloud of soft florals, a more intense spiciness makes itself known through the addition of cinnamon and clove. In the dry down is where this fragrance shines however - the smoky regal nature of frankincense and myrrh is joined by an array of smooth woods and balanced by the creamiest oakmoss and orris. This scent truly is a delight for the senses, there’s a lot going on but it still manages to smell clean, elegant and unique all at the same time. I feel like this is a riff on the Reckless Pour Homme scent profile, with more of a resinous, powdery aspect to the overall end product.
Semi Bespoke 21 is a timeless leathery chypre fragrance which heaps of character, it’s truly unforgettable once you smell it. The scent opens initially very fresh, vibrant and tart with sharp notes of juicy grapefruit and rindy mandarin orange. The citrus is then illuminated by bed of gentle flowers, with rose and jasmine at the forefront. As this settles on the skin, it becomes deeper and richer. Thick layers of opulent leather intertwined with the oily earthiness of cypriol is smoothed out by a traditional chypre base of oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli. Alongside this are woody aromatic touches of juniper, frankincense and cedar. Overall this is a leather and cypriol dominant scent. The cypriol here is very tame and blends well with the leather, it’s not explosive like Majestic Aoud or FM Promise. This fragrance is beautiful and I would love a bottle, but I find I enjoy the opening a lot more than the dry down and so the price just isn’t worth it for me.
I’m usually not a lover of mint-based fragrances at all, hate them in fact, but this is actually done really really well - I love it. The mint is not too cloying or toothpastey, it’s balanced perfectly and is fantastically refreshing for a hot day. That sharp and refreshingly spicy blast of mint is initially balanced by the juicy freshness of grapefruit and plum which smell delicious in the air. From here you get the aquatic saltiness of the ocean with rain pouring over your head in the blistering sun. There’s then a hint of intense sugary sweetness in the base from vanilla, brown sugar and powdery Turkish Delight. Ayjal is stunning, it’s such an uplifting and happy scent to wear. I can imagine this shining brilliantly in the high heat when you need something fresh and inviting, it settles on the skin amazingly well. This is how you do mint in perfumes.
Looking at Turath’s note breakdown, I was expecting something very sweet and cool-weather appropriate, but what I found was something surprisingly refreshing and versatile. This is a satisfyingly sweet and wearable fruity scent, which would work very well all year round. Firstly, this scent does come off very synthetic due to the use of strawberry and apple accords, as these very rarely smell natural as there is no raw material for them. This refreshing juiciness is contested by the dark stickiness of dried fruits alongside smoky incense and oud. That sweetness is elevated by a feel of sugary candied fruits, freshened up by the airy saltiness of ambergris. Turath is gorgeous I can’t lie, I’m not sure it’s worth the price but I really enjoy wearing it. It’s one of those scents you can comfortably wear in the heat of summer, and the bitter coldness of winter and not feel out of place. Gorgeous.
Diwan is a fruity rose-oud which will blow your socks off straight away, this stuff seriously fills rooms. It’s sweet and seductive, airy and floral and yet at the same time dense, smoky and dark. The scent is primarily focused around the dark, smoky growl of thick oud, leather and incense which provides this bitter backbone to the fragrance. To contrast this you’ve got an array of sticky-sweet fruity notes including raspberry and strawberry backed up by jammy rose and saffron. There’s hints of other stuff going on but that’s the general gist of it. This is a gorgeous fruit oud scent but I wouldn’t even consider paying the retail price for it. It’s very enjoyable to wear but it doesn’t stick in my mind for days on end like some of the other SOD’s do unfortunately.
Baz is pure unadulterated filthy luxury in a bottle, it’s dirty and raunchy yet ever so smooth and elegant in its own way. It’s dominated by a brutally rich and pungent leather accord alongside a sharp, urinous and almost sour civet note. This animalistic leather is elevated by spicy hints of cardamom and black pepper, alongside smoky elements of resins and incense. This smokiness in turn is strengthened by birch, with rich earthy notes of castoreum and oud taking this further. On the other side of this dark brooding affair, the intense juicy nature of plum and sparkly aldehydes provide a shimmer of light amongst all this which balances everything beautifully. The focus on civet and leather does remind me a little of Diaghilev, but other than that the scent heads in a totally different direction. It’s still got that filth and eroticism, but with its own distinct Middle Eastern twist. Incredible scent.