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Originally written in 08/23 AMOUAGE MYTHS Woman Nathalie Lorson (2016) I love to challenge myself and trying to find my limits with unique polarizing scents. This was my latest obsession and I think this is the one I used time the most trying to imagine the scent in my head. I managed to do it very well. In the opening this is Narcissus and Violet Leaves for a fleeting moment and after that it really is dark green scent from vet flowers (green parts) which has been in the vase for a while mixed with a scent from a wet grass wich is just cutted with a lawnmower. I was thinking that no one wants to create that kind of scent if it wouldn’t be something beautiful and I was right. That scent here is something really addictive, calming and it reminds me of a beautiful nature which has been big part of my life. It reminds me of my childhood when spending time with my grandfather on the fields and getting rid of weeds with my hands and running in the fresh grass. I don’t think this is difficult to love if you just love dark greenish scent of plants. Sniffing straight away my arm it’s exactly what I get (I mean what I described) but around me the scent is really alluring and a way more abstract, very pleasant and unique. I don’t get any leather like I’m used to. This is mossy but not a dry one. Top: Narcissus, Violet Leaves, Galbanum Heart: Carnation, Patchouli, Ambergris Accord Base: Leather, Moss, Musk Just marvelous! Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
RDHP20 (ROJA DOVE HAUTE PERFUMERIE 20) Roja Dove 2024 I have been wearing this now for many days, in different kind weathers waiting if I get some challenging facets out of it. I have to say that this is quite safe perfume - if you already love Roja’s creations. It doesn’t mean that it’s boring or simple, no way, but it’s easy to love for sure. Since there are many people waiting some opinions on RDHP20 I want to keep this review simple. I concentrate on the questions which I have got the most and on the other hand I want to compare it with some scents so you maybe get the idea of the scent easier. COMPARING DOESN’T MEAN THEY ARE SAME. What comes to the scent of RDHP20 there is nothing same with RDHP15 which is a surprise for some if only checking all those notes. They share so many but believe me, you don’t get a sister of 15. Rather this is like an older brother, the male version of this pair of Chypres, it’s like the opposite as is the colouring of the labels. Still RDHP20 is very unisex, and on my skin it stays a bit softer and lighter than on my husband’s skin, where the base is much deeper and darker with clearly musky and enjoyable Oudy undertones - but on my skin it never screams masculinity and it’s a bit sweeter. The opening is sparkling with aldehydes, and citruses are detectable longer than in 15. There is somewhat familiar cola vibe in the opening as well which not only reminds me of Enigma Pour Homme but also of PDLN3. Yet, this seems to appear more clearly on my skin and not so much on male skin. However, it disappears as the scent develops. This is ambery and mossy, all the flowers are not like a huge bouquet in 15, they stay totally in the background. Violet and Peach which both has a major role in 15 is tuned down here as well and I don’t find any traditionally feminine characteristics. This is Chypre but not even close to Diaghilev neither to Chypre Extraordinaire. I have them both and I love them as well a lot but this is very different. If you want to get the idea of the scent from the notes, you should just think of the base. It represents this gorgeous scent. Fresh and spicy, even smoky feeling from Frankincense, deep woods dipped in Peru Balsam, and Vanilla together with Benzoin bringing a little bit of sweetness and a lot of warmth. Oud, Musk and mosses are finishing the whole blend making it an incredible classy, somewhat nostalgic (not dated) and utterly luxurious elixir. RDHP20 works well in hot weather as well but for some people it can be too much. I love these kind of scents in warm weather when I can detect even the smallest details of it. This is absolutely office safe when spraying sparingly but since I only have a sample I don’t have a possibility to test this in all possible environments, temperatures and moods. As I have tried to get as many wearings as possible from this precious sample I don’t have experience of overspraying which I love so much btw. Longevity is good even without overspraying. Full bottle worthy into my collection of 24 Rojas. Absolutely gorgeous scent. Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Lemon, Lime (RDHP15: Aldehydes, Lemon, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin, Orange) Heart : Geranium, Clary Sage, Magnolia, Freesia, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Violet, Peach (RDHP15: Lily of the Valley, Geranium, Jasmine, Cistus, Heliotrope, Violet, Peach, Red Champaca) Base: Rhubarb, Clove, Mosses, Cèdre-sur-Orris, Sandalwood, Clear Woods, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Labdanum, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Cypriol, Frankincense, Aoud Wood, Musks. (RDHP15: Coriander, Ginger, Pepper, Moss Notes, Patchouli, Vetiver, Casmir Wood, Amyris, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Peru Balsam, Orris, Frankincense, Labdanum, Ambrarome Absolute, Civet, Musk) The house mentions key notes: Aldehydes, Lemon, Lime, Rose, Jasmine, Violet, Clear Woods, Amber and Vanilla. Imo Clove, mosses, Benzoin, Peru Balsam, Frankincense and Musks are definitely key notes as well. Without them this would be a way too linear. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
ISOLA SOL Roja Dove 2024 People have seemed to have stereotypical expectations of this fragrance, which led to disappointed reactions. However, by taking a closer look at the notes and taking into account where the flowers in question grow and Roja's style of making fragrances, the description of the fragrance is not misleading. Tropical doesn't always mean splashy edible fruits (lastly in Roja’s perfumes) - here it means flowers, Ylang-Ylang and Jasmine, the both of them are growing in tropical regions. Roja’s style has always been classy and this scents fits into that style. Then we move on to the fruits. Fruity notes are in the opening and I know that many was expecting to detect them clearly from the scent but those you can’t find in that way. Roja’s perfumes are always complex and rarely you can separate individual notes. He uses a lot especially Peach, you can see that note in several perfumes. But can you smell it always clearly? Mostly yes, if it’s one of the middle notes but now all the fruits are in the opening. Honestly I was still expecting more than a subtle hint of Apricot and Peach as well and I really don’t know why. And to the third important point: the name of the perfume is Isola Sol but have you seen somewhere a mention of solar notes? I even saw someone complaining that the scent is not solar. Or what defines the word beachy? “Marine” is an accord but beachy is not, it's a term which people can imagine in very many different kind of ways. There is an idea behind the pair Isola Blue and Isola Sol. First one is the scene on the sea: fresh air on the yacht, refreshing Coconut cocktail and water with citruses in the glass (I don’t concentrate on that now more), and the latter one Isola Sol is the scene on the beach. Bright beautiful Jasmine scent on a sunkissed skin after the swim in the crystal clear salty water. Coconut - which here reminds me immediately of the sun - is lingering around mellow Jasmine and restrained Ylang-Ylang while Neroli brings freshness maintaining the concoction from turning sweet or creamy one. Jasmine is very natural and I love so much that there is not Tuberose at all. In this fragrance, the middle notes tell the most essential part of it. This lasts 6-7 hours an the longer it’s on the skin the softer it becomes. This is not so complex than perfumes in Roja’s other lines but it’s in the same level with those in Women’s Collection. It’s the quality which you pay for. Top Notes: Lemon*, Bergamot*, Mandarin, Petitgrain, Apricot*, Peach* Heart Notes: Neroli, Jasmine Sambac*, Ylang Ylang*, Coconut Base Notes: Pink Pepper, Cedar Wood, Sandal Wood, Amyris Wood*, Salty Accord*, Musks, Ambroxan *Key notes More detailed review on the scent itself after having a full bottle. This is based on a sample (worn 3 days). Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
I love to analyse perfumes but I find this concoction too pungent for me to wear it several times. The blend is not so smooth and the notes separately are very sharp. I have to say that I love many masculine and unisex scents but this I feel a way too traditionally masculine. So speaking roughly: men, this is worth to try and women, this is not for you. Even if the perfume doesn't have a gender it sometimes help to describe the perfume - it makes it easier for people to imagine the scent in their minds. This is heavy scent, it's Cardamom heavy, Patchouli heavy and woods are heavy as well. Sandalwood is not that creamy, soothing one here. I think this works best when you need some extra energy, when you need to run all the day from one place to another. This may be a confidence boost for you if you love the scent but this is not office safe imo. It can give headache for some. Top: Orange Blossom, Cardamom Middle: Cedar, Pepper, Cypress, Amber Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood I do see comparison with Les Jeux Sont Faits but only because of some notes. That one is blended very well, it's smooth and round, it's polished beautifully and it's absolutely attractive and office safe as well. If someone has loved a lot Rojas Parfum de la Nuit Collection and can't afford them I always advise to try Les Jeux Son Faits so that tells something how well it has been blended. No, It's not the same, but you get the same feeling. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Let's see if I'm able to wear this properly some day but before that some words. If you really love to smell like Rum, this is for you. I almost get a hangover straight away after smelling this one. This is not any refreshing tropical rum cocktail , this is a double Rum with rocks. The most straightforward Rum scent for sure. All the notes are quite well done, a little bit synthetic feeling but not badly nor cloying way but it could have been blended better. It's quite sharp, and it feels unpolished, it would work if it would be gentle and soft. There is not Coconut here at all and it doesn't feel like that either. Just to mention since it's a common pair with Rum and someone has voted "this perfume reminds me of" Creed Virgin Island Water. That scent I love so much. I love boozy scents but this is too much for me. Top: Light Rum, Dark Rum, Ice Middle: Orange Curacao, Lime, Davana Absolute Base: Orgeat Syrup (nutty Almond flavour, like Amaretto), Styrax, Patchouli Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
This is based on a random sample but I really tried to give it a full wear multiple times but I can't. EDIT: No I would love to wear it nonstop. I don't know exactly what is bothering me here the most but the blend is cloying and it gives me a headache. If I'm checking the notes there is nothing which I don't like even if I haven't been wearing so much Tuberose dominant scents lately (love it though). This is blended very well and it's difficult to detect some individual notes. This is very potent as well which may be partly because I don't like this one but I think it's quite strong anyway and with this scent the less is more. EDIT: Sometimes perfumes are strange. Something made me curious to visit my sample again and the cloying part has totally disappeared. Now it's very smooth as well, still (luckily) tuberose doesn't stand out. It's still strong though and I think that it can easily cause headache but not for me anymore. Is this "Oud perfume"? No, it's not noticeable. Is this "Tuberose scent"? I would say no because there is so much other thing going on as well but for sure it's one of the notes which makes this very heady and easily dominate the concoction if you don't like it. Is this fruity? No and I'm disappointed not to even get a gentle whiff of Passionfruit. What about Vanilla? If Vanilla would perform like here I would hate it. Musk? I love it in almost all perfumes, but honestly here it does't give that sensual vibe. What about the comparisons below? Alien, Aura or even Angel by Mugler: I don't find any similarities and I love so much all of them. Alien has been mentioned many times but it's heady amazing Jasmine. Blonde Amber: nothing same but the headache from both. NR Musk Noir Rose: No, not even close and even if changing that into mature grandma scent (whatever that means), no. Unisex? Absolutely EDIT: This really is well blended and still all the notes merges perfectly. I still agree with my previous description of most of the notes. What I think differently, is that now I find that seductive character of this one. Tuberose is made beautifully since it differs a lot of the style nowadays. Vanilla and Passionfruit gives it fruity sweetness and musky base makes it classy, seductive, yet cozy. So it really does the sensual vibe. I don't have any idea how my thoughts can change this much during around 5-6 weeks. Now I smell all the beautiful little things in the notes in it but still I can't find Oud in it. I want to find always some good things about the perfumes and I think this is either love or hate fragrance. This is very complex and there is a quality but please sample first. This is not a safe blind buy. Unfortunately not for me but it doesn't mean that you wouldn't like it. EDIT: I need this as soon as possible! So, if you try it and don't like it, wait a couple of weeks even more. You may be as surprised as I am now! In this case I'm very happy that my sample was leaking a little bit since I got a sniff of it from time to time when I was just moving my sample. And today the magic happened and now I sprayed this heavily in my arms. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Sometimes perfumes are strange. Something made me curious to visit my sample again and the cloying part has totally disappeared. Now it's very smooth as well, still (luckily) tuberose doesn't stand out. It's still strong though and I think that it can easily cause headache but not for me anymore. So, if you try it and don't like it, wait a couple of weeks even more. You may be as surprised as I am now! In this case I'm very happy that my sample was leaking a little bit since I got a sniff of it from time to time when I was just moving my sample. And today the magic happened and now I sprayed this heavily in my arms. MY FINAL REVIEW: Absolutely stunning blend where all the notes merges perfectly. Seductive, captivating, full-bodied, rich scent is a combination of fruity aroma, warm spicy touch of precious Saffron, creamy, silky white florals and dark tones from Patchouli, Myrrh and Ambery nuances. Tuberose is made beautifully since it differs a lot of the style nowadays. It’s not heady nor stands out so clearly which I’m used to but it’s glorious and impressive regardless. Vanilla and Passionfruit gives it fruity sweetness and musky base makes it classy, seductive, yet cozy. It really adds a sensual vibe to the dry down. I’m not a fan of ambroxan, but here it doesn’t bother me after the initial difficulty, even though a hint of syntheticity does come through every now and then. The oud is not particularly noticeable, but it certainly adds depth to the overall composition. The texture is almost sticky first like bold as well but it evolves into the silky smooth, soft and pampering. This is a fragrance for festive moments as well as occasions when you want to be noticed. It’s a confidence booster. It makes you feel like a queen. 👑 I don't have any idea how my thoughts can change this much during around 5-6 weeks. Now I smell all the beautiful little things in the notes in it but still I can't find Oud in it. Is this "Oud perfume"? No, it's not noticeable. Is this "Tuberose scent"? I would say no because there is so much other thing going on as well but for sure it's one of the notes which makes this quite heady and easily dominate the concoction if you don't like it. Is this fruity? No and first I was disappointed not to even get a gentle whiff of Passionfruit. Now it’s pushing through all that complexity and the fruity flavor is just perfect. What about the comparisons below? Alien, Aura or even Angel by Mugler: I don't find any similarities and I love so much all of them. Alien has been mentioned many times but it's heady amazing Jasmine. Blonde Amber: nothing same but the headache from both. NR Musk Noir Rose: No, not even close and even if changing that into mature grandma scent (whatever that means), no. Unisex? Absolutely I think this is either love or hate fragrance. This is very complex and there is a quality but please sample first. This is not a safe blind buy. THIS BELOW IS BASED ON A RANDOM SAMPLE when I really tried to give it a full wear multiple times but I couldn’t. Now after many testings I would love to wear it nonstop. I don't know exactly what is bothering me here the most but the blend is cloying and it gives me a headache. If I'm checking the notes there is nothing which I don't like even if I haven't been wearing so much Tuberose dominant scents lately (love it though). This is blended very well and it's difficult to detect some individual notes. This is very potent as well which may be partly because I don't like this one but I think it's quite strong anyway and with this scent the less is more. Thank you for reading, I hope you liked my review. I would appreciate if you follow my IG: @ninamariah_perfumes It gives me a lot of motivation to write more. 🤗
Feels very enjoyable, a bit smoky, like humid smoke with a hint of Vanilla. Oud is enjoyable and it blends beautifully with warm Benzoin and soft Sesame. I like the blend during the first hour even if for me it's not like an Oud scent. It's a crowd pleasing western Oud. It's nice after that as well but while the scent evolves it becomes more like woods with Vanilla. A gentle humid smoke remains anyway which is nice and it never gets so sweet. Overall this is nice scent but too general and simple for me. There is no Saffron here, not in the notes, it does'n smell like that either. An earthy feeling comes from Sesame but it's definitely not a Saffron like earthiness. This is great to wear in cooler climate but it works surprisingly well in warm weather as well without being too heavy or suffocating. NOTES FROM THE BRANDS WEBSITE Top: Bitter Orange, Sesame Heart: Laos Oud, Guaiac Wood Base: Vanilla, Benzoin This review is based on a random sample. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate a lot if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
I will write a more detailed review after buying a full bottle (maybe), this review is based on 3 full wearings in Finnish summer (15-20c). First of all there is not Magnolia here!!! The name is super misleading. And despite those tropical notes which sounds heavy, this is very beautiful, subtle and tender. It's not creamy, nor citrusy or sweet or that kind of fruity which makes you want to eat them. First it somewhat fresh and it develops into utterly smooth, warm and charming scent which is irresistible when smelling close to the skin. It doesn't project and a sillage is minimal so this is suitable for intimate moments. REAL NOTES FROM THE BRANDS WEBSITE Top: Osmanthus, Orange Blossom Heart: Apricot, Fig, Frangipani flower Base: Ylang-Ylang, Vanilla This review is based on a sample. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
First I have to say that it's very rare that I talk about a fragrance by comparing it to another fragrance as much as I do now. I usually approach scents as individuals and appreciate even small differences that create a different feeling in me. The name and the notes sounds so nice and even if I noticed that the notes are almost identical with Portrait of A Lady I was hoping, at least, that there is something that sets it apart from POAL in a positive way. Some beautiful detail, maybe wonderful Oud note, which POAL doesn't have (doesn't even need though). The opening reminds me immediately of POAL but that beautiful combination of spices, Patchouli, Rose and Frankincense is immediately gone. And that's it. So what sets them apart is that Rosewood is boring, and generic without any unique thing and it's just a shade of its archetype, POAL. It's very difficult to think why to choose this one over iconic POAL BUT if you feel that you like the scent of POAL but it's a way too potent, dense and "big" scent for you then Rosewood would be your choice. There is barely Oud in it, honestly I don't detect it at all so you can ignore it totally if you don't like it. And vice versa, if you love Oud a lot and you are expecting something truly Oudy Rose, you can ignore Rosewood. Rosewood is not a bad scent by no means if thinking a scent. It smells nice, pleasant, it's for sure very easy to like. It's blended ok as well. I'm sure that it will be popular. But as much as I love POAL, this doesn't evoke any emotions in me and I don't know when I should wear it. And to all of you who don't know POAL: you can try this one but please try that masterpiece as well. Sartorial71 has made a beautiful review below, I'm thinking the same but about the original one. All of that fits Rosewood too, but it lacks some magical finish which is so incredible in POAL. They resemble each other’s but they are not same. ROSEWOOD Top: Pink Berries, Pink Pepper Heart: Rose Essence, Rose Absolute, Oud Base: Incense, Patchouli, Sandalwood PORTRAIT OF A LADY Top note: Rose Middle notes: Blackcurrant, Raspberry, Clove Base notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Frankincense (Incense) This review is based on a sample. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate a lot if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
REAL NOTES Top: Aldehydes, Pear Middle: Jasmin, Peony, Rose Base: Muscs, Ambroxan I love and I have many different kind of clean musky perfumes, soapy ones, aldehydes, “clean sheets” etc. This one is the first one which really smells like a laundry detergent - sniffed straight away from the bottle, not in the clothes after washing. Imo this is not powdery at all (accord mentioned here in Fragrantica) and aldehydes are very sharp like musk as well with Ambroxan. Musk is not soft like I have used to. Flowers here are supporting the concoction like in many these kind of scents, you barely smell them soaked in detergent. Pear is not noticeable, not even as a slight sweetness. Somehow this is anyway very addictive. I’m sniffing my wrist and wondering did I really washed my hand after spilling the detergent on it. After a couple of hours sharpness disappears and musk gets much softer. A strong fresh ozone note appears, like washed sheets drying on a string after the rain. Still it never gets powdery on my skin. Definitely this is not bad but you have to love strong aldehydes and the scent of laundry detergent. This review is based on a random sample. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes