Well... Doesn't expected much, but it blows away any expectations far away and it's completely blind buy. I keep it hidden from myself and decided to open on a special occasion and it was worth it. Opening was a bit scary when peach note landed (not a big fan of it) but damn that drydown it is something amazing! I need a backup bottle now.
RDHP20 (ROJA DOVE HAUTE PERFUMERIE 20) Roja Dove 2024 I have been wearing this now for many days, in different kind weathers waiting if I get some challenging facets out of it. I have to say that this is quite safe perfume - if you already love Roja’s creations. It doesn’t mean that it’s boring or simple, no way, but it’s easy to love for sure. Since there are many people waiting some opinions on RDHP20 I want to keep this review simple. I concentrate on the questions which I have got the most and on the other hand I want to compare it with some scents so you maybe get the idea of the scent easier. COMPARING DOESN’T MEAN THEY ARE SAME. What comes to the scent of RDHP20 there is nothing same with RDHP15 which is a surprise for some if only checking all those notes. They share so many but believe me, you don’t get a sister of 15. Rather this is like an older brother, the male version of this pair of Chypres, it’s like the opposite as is the colouring of the labels. Still RDHP20 is very unisex, and on my skin it stays a bit softer and lighter than on my husband’s skin, where the base is much deeper and darker with clearly musky and enjoyable Oudy undertones - but on my skin it never screams masculinity and it’s a bit sweeter. The opening is sparkling with aldehydes, and citruses are detectable longer than in 15. There is somewhat familiar cola vibe in the opening as well which not only reminds me of Enigma Pour Homme but also of PDLN3. Yet, this seems to appear more clearly on my skin and not so much on male skin. However, it disappears as the scent develops. This is ambery and mossy, all the flowers are not like a huge bouquet in 15, they stay totally in the background. Violet and Peach which both has a major role in 15 is tuned down here as well and I don’t find any traditionally feminine characteristics. This is Chypre but not even close to Diaghilev neither to Chypre Extraordinaire. I have them both and I love them as well a lot but this is very different. If you want to get the idea of the scent from the notes, you should just think of the base. It represents this gorgeous scent. Fresh and spicy, even smoky feeling from Frankincense, deep woods dipped in Peru Balsam, and Vanilla together with Benzoin bringing a little bit of sweetness and a lot of warmth. Oud, Musk and mosses are finishing the whole blend making it an incredible classy, somewhat nostalgic (not dated) and utterly luxurious elixir. RDHP20 works well in hot weather as well but for some people it can be too much. I love these kind of scents in warm weather when I can detect even the smallest details of it. This is absolutely office safe when spraying sparingly but since I only have a sample I don’t have a possibility to test this in all possible environments, temperatures and moods. As I have tried to get as many wearings as possible from this precious sample I don’t have experience of overspraying which I love so much btw. Longevity is good even without overspraying. Full bottle worthy into my collection of 24 Rojas. Absolutely gorgeous scent. Top: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Lemon, Lime (RDHP15: Aldehydes, Lemon, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin, Orange) Heart : Geranium, Clary Sage, Magnolia, Freesia, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Violet, Peach (RDHP15: Lily of the Valley, Geranium, Jasmine, Cistus, Heliotrope, Violet, Peach, Red Champaca) Base: Rhubarb, Clove, Mosses, Cèdre-sur-Orris, Sandalwood, Clear Woods, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Labdanum, Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Cypriol, Frankincense, Aoud Wood, Musks. (RDHP15: Coriander, Ginger, Pepper, Moss Notes, Patchouli, Vetiver, Casmir Wood, Amyris, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Peru Balsam, Orris, Frankincense, Labdanum, Ambrarome Absolute, Civet, Musk) The house mentions key notes: Aldehydes, Lemon, Lime, Rose, Jasmine, Violet, Clear Woods, Amber and Vanilla. Imo Clove, mosses, Benzoin, Peru Balsam, Frankincense and Musks are definitely key notes as well. Without them this would be a way too linear. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
RDHP20 is a fragrance which really shocked my nose the first time I smelled it, I really wasn’t expecting something like this. I initially discovered it at the launch event in Harrods back in June, but didn’t want to review it until I had a sample so I could give it a fair chance. It’s definitely a cousin of the original RDHP15, but goes in a much more contemporary direction. RDHP15 was all about the fuzzy peach and creamy oakmoss, with a definite focus on a traditional Chypre composition. With RDHP20, you’ve still got elements of the peach and the oakmoss, but it’s rhubarb which shouts the loudest. This rhubarb is intensely sweet, sharp and sour with a delicious jammy nature to it, coupled with an overdose of fizzy aldehydes to give it that iconic sparkling effect. Alongside this, an array of gentle florals and shiny woods lay down a path towards this gorgeous rhubarb garden, sparkling in the sunshine. It’s a lot brighter and sharper than 15, and whilst I do really enjoy this scent, 15 is far superior in every way to me personally. I think I much prefer the smoothed out creaminess, whereas this scent can be a bit too sharp if oversprayed. The only downside is that without a doubt this is a riff on Pierre de Velay Essence Rare, which has the exact same fizzy rhubarb note.