GUERLAIN Shalimar Parfum Extrait Jacques Guerlain 1925 New formula At least some of the original notes (Kafkaesque) Bergamot, Lemon, Jasmine, Rose, Orris, Opopanax, Tonka bean, Birch tar, Patchouli, Incense, Vetiver, Civet, Castoreum, Vanilla, Musks Possibly in the new version Benzoin, Peru Balsam, and Sandalwood (The Perfume Shrine) If you check the list of the notes nowadays it’s very simple and unfortunately it is the case in new formula of edp but in this extract there is a depth in it which includes a way more than “Bergamot, Florals, Iris, Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla and Tonka Bean” (extrait, Fragrantica). For sure you can find there a leather note which is from Birch Tar and from the combination of balsams and resins (Opoponax, Myrrh, Benzoin, Peru Balsam) and there is a beautiful slightly smoky feeling, like Sandalwood like creamy texture as well blended with Vanilla. I’m sure in the old formulas Civet, Castoreum and Musk play the big role and bring the sensuality, glory and some mystery to this scent and I will haunt some vintage version. Parfum is definitely better one than edp and it has more personality as well. From fragrantica (edp) “Some people may find the scent too strong or overwhelming”. The reason for that phrase imo is not that the juice would be that strong but the most of the people voting here are maybe more used to mainstream designers and therefore it feels exceptionally heavy and very different. Yet, the both edp and the new formula of extrait de parfum are very wearable and versatile but it’s also good to bear in mind that even if I’m not categorizing the perfumes so strictly into the seasons, Shalimar is shining when the weather is cold. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

After I got a sample of this and smelled it for the first time I fell in love with it immediately. I opened straight away the package of it - it was just waiting if I would love it or not. Personally I love more Tom Ford’s perfumes in Signature line than in Private line. I don’t know why but they feels more special to me. This is an amazing high quality scent, it’s very different than all other Iris / Violet scent’s which I have. It’s an elegance in the bottle. It’s a little bit vintage style but not in a soapy way and it’s not so “dry” powdery. it’s very cozy, soft and warm but in the same time it’s very unique and romantic. Benzoin makes it different from other warmer Iris scents and I love the way it does it warm without Vanilla like sweetness. Violet is there but the name is misleading imo since Iris and Orris are more dominant - together with Jasmine they make an irresistible core for this scent. Musk and Suede in the base make it not only so cozy but very very sensual as well. Concoction is somewhat full of contrasts. I don’t get any ozonic or aquatic which are included in accords here in Fragrantica. This scent was released 2011 and was discontinued only 5 years later. I don’t know if it was too special or too old fashioned as a designer scent or if the reason was the name but so sad that this kind of creation is not produced anymore. Top: Italian Mandarin, Baie Rose, pink pepper (?), Violet leaf Heart: Tuscan Iris, Jasmine Sambac, Tuscan Orris butter Base: Musk, Suede, Cedar, Vetiver, Benzoin Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

EX NIHILO Iris Porcelana Dalia Izem 2022 Eau de Parfum Unisex year around scent My scent of the day is Iris Porcelana from Ex Nihilo. It’s so delicate and subtle. It’s bright and luminous, very innocent. It’s fragile like a snowflake and these very old coffee cups made of the finest porcelain around 75 years ago (these belonged to my grandmother's sister). (*picture in IG) Iris Porcelana is like a second skin. Iris is a light breath inside a cloud of soft and warm almost transparent musk and woods. It feels that it has made for elfs and for angels. It feels like a scene from the movie when someone is dreaming of the best moments of their lives and the brightness of the screen fills the whole theater. This was a must have to my collection of versatile yet attractive scents. It’s quite simple yet indulgent and sumptuous. This makes me happy and it makes me smile. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

AMOUAGE Gold Man Guy Robert 1983 Luxurious Naughty and erotic Animalic I just don’t get enough of this! I love the animalic musky base in it, it’s so gorgeous. Civet and Oakmoss make it perfect. White florals in very vintage way are beautiful. The scent is little bit powdery because of Orris, very warm because of Myrrh. It’s bold. I think the only negative thing is that your partner has to like it as well. I’m lucky, he loves it. 🔥❤️ I tried the newest version and it’s easier but it lacks the original character imo. Some day I will have this in the original vintage bottle like women’s counterpart as well. 🤩 Now when they will do the limited editions in old shaped bottles I wish they will make the juice as close to the originals as possible. In-depth review later, the review of Gold Woman written. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

BORTNIKOFF Lao Oud (2021) Extrait de Parfum Unisex Bortnikoff’s ouds are quite easy to love but there are four which are more challenging than others. One of them is Lao Oud (others Sayat Nova, Oud Loukoum and maybe Triad for some). The master himself says “the note of Oud has never been so strong and animalic” in his perfumes. I don’t think it’s so animalic (for beginners definitely yes) but it’s very dense, dark and mysterious. Lao Oud is a blend of the exceptional Oud oil, the richness of Lao Coffee, and the Frangipani like sweetness (not listed here though) but it doesn’t remind me of freshly roasted coffee beans. It’s rather a some kind of the most darkest coffee syrap which has aged in the wooden barrels together with spices. There is a whiff of sweetness from which I smell honey and flowers with subtle animalic tones. You can smell a very dark Cacao, it’s not chocolate like but like that dark cacao powder which you didn’t wanted to be used in your drink when you was a kid. The whole blend is extremely sumptuous and unforgettable, it’s complex and addictive. Lao Oud is very close to Indian but it is much softer. Actually earlier I was thinking Oud Monarch to be like Lao Oud is. I was never thinking there is something that easy in Bortnikoff’s collection like Oud Monarch and I was thinking that Lao Oud would be too much for me. This is like a next step from Oud Monarch but there is a huge possibility that I’m just in the next level while exploring ouds, I love very animalic and edgy ones. I enjoy a lot of this masterfully blended piece of art. Top: Pink Pepper, Magnolia Middle: Beeswax Absolute, Cinnamon, Chamomile, Peru Balsam, Cacao Absolute Base: Oud from Laos, Tonka Beans, Crocodile Wood, Coffee, Oud from India, Vanilla Absolute, Birch Tar, Guaiac Wood Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

Après L’Ondee edt was originally launched in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain. This new edt was launched in 2021. Unfortunately I haven’t had a possibility to try an old one. This beautiful classic scent is delicate and tender. It’s clean and powdery with Iris and Violet but there is a bright sparkling breeze which is somewhat opposite to the overall melancholy feeling which the scent is sharing around you. This is very calming and charming scent. Vanilla is softening it in the base keeping it cold anyway. I don’t see this similar to L’Heure Bleue in any kind of way except Iris note and glamorous whiff from the past. “Created six years earlier, Après L’Ondee has more watercolor and pastel aspects than L’Heure Bleue.” For me Anis is not dominating - I have seen people who think that it’s too strong note here. Guerlain’s Carnation accord combines notes of Rose and spice. This is very vintage style and I’m totally in love with these kind of scents nowadays. It’s not overly soapy anyway nor baby vibes heavy. Après L’Ondee is not so long lasting on the skin but spraying on clothes you can make it last easily all the day. I’m very curious about Insolence too. I think I need to add it soon. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

🌹Radical Rose (2020)🌹 Aurélien Guichard I don’t know if there is nothing left to say about this heavenly intoxicating, beloved, voluptuous rose. There is a perfect balance between three popular notes mixed with Rose: Patchouli, Saffron and Labdanum. This scent is mellow and brash with inviting earthy touch in it and without Vanilla it never gets sweet. It’s stupendous with an enormous projection and sillage and everyone will notice your scent before and after you. If you are considering something like this I think you should check out as well Parfums De Marly Delina, Amouage Rose Incense, Penhaligon’s Cairo and Tom Ford Rose Prick. They are all different but in the same modern “beast mode” Rose category. I like to layer Radical Rose with Falcon Leather. MATIERE PREMIERE is the French phrase for “raw material” and the scents are built around one central natural ingredient so they are quite simple and easy to layer with each others. There are Saffron and Labdanum in both of those two and a leather note in Falcon Leather is made of Finnish Birch Tar. “Perfumes contain between 85% and 92% natural ingredients. They are vegan, phthalate free and without any colouring agent.” Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

A mission impossible completed. 💛 Discontinued Amouage Ubar is finally in my hands. (Creations Aromatiques 1995) This is very unisex. So beautiful vintage style white floral. Nothing like white florals nowadays. Very sensual. Intoxicating. Elegant. Very oriental with balsamic and ambery base. All those flowers are dipped in them. As glorious as I was thinking it is. ✨✨✨ Thank you @profumeriezanon in Udine, Italy making one of my dreams come true. They had amazing collection of Clive Christians btw. Top: lemon, bergamot, lily of the valley, tangerine, orange, litsea cubeba and violet leaf Heart: jasmine, damascene rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, tuberose, freesia, and palisander rosewood Base: civet, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, copahu balm and black amber In-depth review later. 06/24 Unfortunately I haven't smelled the original perfume, which was released in 1995 and discontinued later. It has been described to be even richer and woodier than the version which was released in the new bottle in 2009. Mine is the new version which has a magnetic cap and therefore it differs the most from the original being anyway more floral and having less incense in it like non magnetic cap version as well (what I have red). Ubar is an amazing beautiful vintage style white floral. It's nothing like white florals are nowadays and it can't be compared with them at all. I do see the point why it was discontinued since it's challenging, it's not crowd pleasing at all and it smells a bit outdated even if it was reformulated already into easier version. But for me all that complexity makes it so special. It's so multi layered, it's so amazingly blended and every time I wear it I can find new things, small little nuances, different kind of emotions. I love the fact that I can't separate first that overpowering Tuberose which has been made in the same kind of ways in too many perfumes and that heady Jasmine which has nothing new to offer. This is like a time machine to the past. It's very sensual. Intoxicating. Elegant. It's passionate and somehow sinfully lustfull. It's deep and it's strong like many perfumes before mid 90s and it's even a little bit more of everything. The scent is very oriental with balsamic and ambery base. All those flowers seem to be dipped and soaked in them, for a long time. Uber is as glorious as I was thinking it is but I can't stop thinking about the non magnetic cap version, or even the original one. Regardless, I will enjoy my journey with this one since it's stupendous. I just have to be careful with it, no over spraying like with most of my perfumes. Some day when I'm in the right kind of mood with her, I will analyse more the scent itself. She deserves all my attention. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

I felt that I needed something easy into my collection. Something classy yet comfortable and cozy, something delicate and not so unique. Sometimes I feel so exhausted that I don’t even have power to understand my own mood. If I wear some bold scent with a big character while feeling like that I just get confused. With NR’s scents I don’t have to think absolutely anything, no weather, neither clothes, not even how I really feel. I fell in love with so many scents from NR while trying to find something inconspicuous, almost imperceptible yet attractive and sensual. I love the powdery clean musky dna in them, they are like a tender hug, I feel like I’m wrapped in a enormous fluffy cashmere blanket escaping this cruel world. Musc Noir Rose has a sweet twist in it from Plum and Vanilla. Rose is more noticeable than in others but it’s not “noir” in any kind of way and it’s not so natural smelling Rose, it rather stays very abstract. All NRs smells very light on skin but irresistible on cloths. I will write the reviews of others later in the near future. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate a lot if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes

I felt that I needed something easy into my collection. Something classy yet comfortable and cozy, something delicate and not so unique. Sometimes I feel so exhausted that I don’t even have power to understand my own mood. If I wear some bold scent with a big character while feeling like that I just get confused. With these two scents I don’t have to think absolutely anything, no weather, neither clothes, not even how I really feel. ❓Do you recognize that mood? NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Musk Noir Rose Sonia Constant 2022 I fell in love with so many scents from NR while trying to find something inconspicuous, almost imperceptible yet attractive and sensual. I love the powdery clean musky dna in them, they are like a tender hug, I feel like I’m wrapped in a enormous fluffy cashmere blanket escaping this cruel world. Musc Noir Rose has a sweet twist in it from Plum and Vanilla. All of them smells irresistible on cloths. CHANEL Coco Noir Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake 2012 Delightful very crowd pleasing mix of flowers in a warm woody base - I don’t find anything so “noir” in this one but there is a gentle breeze of warm spices. The scent is seductive and traditionally feminine. It’s delightful but it doesn’t force me to be in a good mood. I want an extrait of this one as well since it shoud have that “noir” confidence boost in it. Haven’t tried it though. The in-depth reviews will follow. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes