Side Effect is one of the most hyped niche fragrances on the market and I’m surprised it’s taken me this long to review it, but it’s not like there was a need for any rush as this scent is pure disappointment in a bottle. The scent is revolved around what can only be described as one of the cheapest rum accords I’ve ever come across - it smells overly sweet and plasticky which could be as a result of the saffron and hedione, but shouldn’t if it was done well. The tobacco and cinnamon are supposed to add a dry spiciness to the scent but instead just make it smell even more of a mess. The quality here is abysmal, how they can charge so much money for such a poor scent is beyond me. I wouldn’t go as far to say it’s revolting, but it’s definitely unpleasant and I have no idea why there’s so much hype surrounding this.
Kingdom of Bahrain is an interesting scent, for one because it seems to have no connotations with the middle east in the slightest. Instead, it heads into aromatic fougere territory, but despite this it’s still a beautiful scent and I can see why people love it - but it’s not my favourite from the Gulf Collection. The citrus notes of lime, lemon and bergamot are present throughout the life of the scent which is mixed beautifully with green, woody and aromatic notes of sage, bay leaf, birch, pine, cypress and patchouli to give the scent a powerful and sophisticated masculinity. Alongside this, it’s got the delectable sweetness of a gentle cotton Candy accord, contrasted by the sexy saltiness of marine ambergris. Bahrain is a beautifully smooth scent combining the rugged desire of aromatic fougere, with the youthful allure of candied sweetness. Like I said it seems to have no relation to middle-eastern perfumery which is strange, but the scent is beautiful and has good longevity.
Mr Sam is a tobacco scent unlike most I have come across in the past and yet still feels quite simplistic. The scent is dominated by an incredibly smooth, well-rounded cardamom which is both warming and alluring. From here I get a strong dose of spicy cinnamon and a kick of black pepper before the real stars begin to shine. A dry, slightly ashy tobacco is complimented gorgeously by a woody, earthy base of cedar and patchouli. This is then rounded out very well with a seductively sweet vanilla. Overall this scent is very enjoyable to wear, its sweet tobacco and warm spices made with brilliant quality as always from Penhaligon’s, but clearly made with the mass-market in mind. This scent is very mass appealing, however the longevity is poor I find which is a shame.
Molecule 01 + Iris does exactly what it says on the tin, it’s a very simplistic and straightforward scent and executed very well. Obviously this fragrance is dominated by an explosion of synthetic yet incredibly smooth and sensual Iso E Super, this is where the fantastically addictive component of the scent derives. The orris root then adds two distinct contrasting scent profiles from here; firstly is the subtle powdery, creamy and almost buttery nature that we all associate with orris, and secondly is the dry, earthy and slightly grassy aspect of the orris root which we often don’t see in most fragrances. You can’t hate on this scent for its simplicity, because it achieves exactly what it sets out to to - it’s not trying to be complex. This is a perfect scent when you’re in one of those moods that you just want to smell clean and sophisticated, when you feel like taking a day off from wearing perfume (but you’re obviously not that crazy).
Tutù is intensely feminine, there’s no doubt about that. To my nose it’s centred around this bright, sparkly, fizzy and slightly boozy accord of pink champagne alongside that sweet and nutty coconut. That sweetness is elevated by a creamy vanilla and hints of musk, whilst being refreshingly contrasted by juicy notes of grapefruit, blackcurrant and raspberry. All of this is tied together by an array of soft, powdery florals which is delicate and pretty. This scent leans far too feminine for myself, but I would love smelling this on a woman. I find this scent to be incredibly clean and alluring, I think it would work brilliantly in the warmer months of the summer.
Rebrodè smells like a riff on the Kirke/Erba Pura scent profile to my nose, which makes it a no for me. It opens with this ambiguous accord of ‘fruity notes’ just like Erba Pura does, it’s very synthetic, screechy and messy without any clear direction to it. From here you get a load of vague and synthetic florals boasting their presence loudly, alongside a juicy passion fruit and some hints of vanilla and musk in the background. It’s supposed to be refreshing, but just comes across thick and cloying. Overall this is not a fragrance which exudes luxury or high quality perfumery, instead it screams cheap, synthetic materials which is a big let down considering some of the other scents from this line are really nice.
From the note breakdown, Lonestar Memories is one of those fragrances I thought I would love, but in actual fact I can hardly stand it. All in all this is a thick and heady leather scent, but not in a good way - in fact it smells like putrid medicine to put it bluntly. It’s got this green, herbal and balmy opening of clary sage which is coupled with a very fecal and off-putting leather accord. From here you’re blasted with an overdose of myrrh which adds to the thick, cloying nature of the fragrance. This is one of those fragrances where all the notes are fighting for attention all at once, there’s no harmony or balance it’s just a screeching mess. As I said above this comes across very medicinal and just simply smells off.
Oud Masira was one of those unexpected discoveries which really surprised me, in a fantastic way. This scent is primarily based around the rich darkness of leather alongside brooding oud. Initially however, it opens with a slightly boozy plum and smoky birch which is insatiably addictive I must say. From here this is where the leather starts to shine - it’s intensely rich and masculine, yet smooth and sophisticated to perfectly match the gentle, dreamy oud in the base. It almost smells like incense should be listed here too as I find it very smoky overall. There’s a very subtle nutty sweetness coming from tonka, and a hint of spicy nutmeg, but overall it’s all about the oud and leather here. This is a really lovely scent overall but I feel like the longevity should be a bit better considering how powerful it comes across in the opening.
Usually I’m no stranger to wearing scents that lean feminine or are marketed to women, but Elixir goes way too far down that feminine path for me personally. However, if I smelled this on a woman it would be incredible. This scent is dominated by a fruity core - juicy, tart raspberries combined with powdery, fuzzy peaches is both delectable and alluring, with an ever so subtle fizz coming from bergamot. This fruitiness is then married by an array of thick and powdery florals; most notably rose, violet and heliotrope. Elixir is the scent of a young woman in my eyes. The attention-grabbing fruitiness contrasted by the traditional powdery florals combines perfectly when smoothed out by creamy vanilla, orris and musks. Overall this is a delicately beautiful scent.
Macramè opens with a gorgeously refreshing cocktail of juicy pear, zingy bergamot and soapy apple blossom before the sweet and airy rose starts to take over. From here the fruitiness is subtly elevated through redcurrant, with powdery hints of musk whispering through the base. The scent profile of this fragrance isn’t very complex, innovative or anything new really - but it does smell very nice. The juiciness of the pear with the gentle touch of rose is very satisfying and enjoyable to wear. I imagine this would work very well in the summer, the light and airy nature of this scent would be perfect for a high heat/humidity environment. Overall this is a pleasant scent but I wouldn’t spend the money for a full bottle of this.
Gorgeous bone-dry fruit and osmanthus with an iris backbone. It reminds me of L'Atessa but with the fruit stones thrown in. Though they're apparently top notes, the fruits come to the fore in the drydown for me, with the opening dominated by rooty iris and osmanthus.
Love! It's a serious, woody, floral patchouli that doesn't smell like anything else I know of. The woody base is wonderfully contrasted by the playful peony flitting across the top. So far there's no earthiness or skank, it's a clean, fruity patchouli note. Like many of this line, it manages to smell high-quality and not designery at all while being super cheap.
An interstellar molecular scent for the discerning astronautical traveller. A cosmic swirl of interplanetary stardust. The gentle amber glow of the moon. A quite stunning fragrance for the bravest of cosmonauts, made for intimate space scenting or layering. Artistically cohesive with its sense of lights twinkling in the darkness, it’s deftly crafted and absolutely gorgeous, with Iris wrapped in soft, delicate blonde woods. A total win. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
Relentless, brutal, migraine-inducing. I love the first few seconds but over time I'm worn down until I can't bear it anymore. I get a headache every time, and so have to ask myself why I keep doing it. Well, I'm out for good this time, luckily I only bought a decant. Everything I've tried from MP has been beyond beast mode, and makes clothing smell for months on end. That's not a good thing in my book.
While references to L'Eau Papier aren't miles off, 312SH is better in almost every way. Its soft orange blossom and clean, fresh linen aldehydes are chic and gently stylish. There's the most delicately dosed oud in the base, which is almost imperceptible to begin with but does come through more later in the wear, adding warmth. This would be an endearing option for business hours as much as 'smart cas' settings. However, I don't think I could think of a time when I wouldn't want to smell this good. If this was a cup of tea, it would be mine. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest
A grandiose journey through roses, rhubarb candy, body odour, creamy vanilla, floral skank, metallic sheen and burnt sugar. After a few hours it's just iso e super and ambroxan, but what a ride! Absolutely wonderful.
Love it. Smells like a Strangelove perfume, superb quality, original and, most importantly, utterly beautiful. On the skin it's completely different to card tester. Put it on you!
To me the opening is like Santal 33, then within 5 minutes it calms down to a gentle vanillic wood. Very polite, very unremarkable and very forgettable.
I took quite a long time to understand and appreciate this fragrance. It is complex but also very straight forward, as it doesn't hide any of the notes in itself. For this very reason it took me some time to understand how simple but just pleasant this fragrance really is. Among very predictable winter fragrances, this scent is a breath of fresh air. Its unique blend of tonka, woods, and sweet notes is really not ordinary. This is a fragrance that challenges, surprises, and ultimately delights. The opening notes strike with the force of cardamom. Yet, there lingers a dissonance – perhaps the dried fruits, or the sharpness of the cardamom itself. This is a challenging beginning, one that leaves me uncertain, questioning. But later its gentle embrace comes off. The harshness softens, giving off a delicate interplay of woods and vanilla, their dance guided by the steady heartbeat of tonka. Here, in the heart of the scent, I find a peaceful hug. The woods offer me an earthy warmth, grounding the composition in a sense of rootedness, while the vanilla and tonka show a tapestry of sweetness that is both comforting and alluring. And then, the fragrance reaches its best part – the drydown. Here, the vanilla and benzoin take center stage, their union a symphony of richness and depth. It's truly a moment of pure olfactory bliss, a culmination of all that has come before. While it may lean towards the masculine, there is an undeniable unisex quality that defies categorization, and I find it just perfect for cold months. Delicate yet bold, sweet yet sharp at times. I was truly captivated by the journey it took me on.
Spring 21 is absolutely phenomenal, and fast becoming one of my new favourite scents for the summer - I guess the limited and exclusive nature of Ffern’s releases is bittersweet. This scent is dominated by a refreshing yet bitter orange throughout its life which is both vibrant and incredibly addictive. The refreshing nature of the orange is backed up by hints of ginger, bergamot white florals and pink pepper, whilst the bitter masculinity is supported by juniper and vetiver. Alongside the orange, the other main note is a green and aromatic basil of the highest quality. This scent is stunning - the quality of materials is insanely good, everything smells so natural and effortless. This does a perfect job of refreshing you on a hot day and whilst the longevity isn’t the best, you can’t expect that from natural citrus notes. I love this stuff and I can’t wait to use it more in the summer.
When I first saw the notes for MeltmyHeart, I thought it was going to be one of my favourite fragrances of all time - I must say it didn’t live up to my expectations, however is an incredible scent nonetheless. Many people describe this as an overdose of chocolate and orris, but I actually find it to be quite tame. The opening to me is dominated by this refreshing medley of mandarin, ginger and bergamot which takes the lead initially. It’s from here that a dry, dusty and earthy cacao is paired with a beautifully soft, powdery and musky orris root. This scent is stunning, but not as gourmand as I was expecting it to be. MeltmyHeart is the epitome of romance, it’s warming and sensual however I think overall Roja Ti Amo does the whole cacao/orris scent profile much better. I’ve also noticed some differences in scent between my 15ml bottle, and the bigger 50/100ml bottles which seem to be much more focused on the cacao and orris rather than the ginger and mandarin.
As the name suggests, Damber Wabsolute is a recreation of the long discontinued Amber Absolute by Tom Ford - and what a beauty this is. A true embodiment of everything you could ever want from a dark and brooding amber scent, this fragrance is incredibly commanding and alluring. Despite having a strong presence of an Amber accord, I feel this scent is dominated by two signature notes - a rich, leathery and slightly bitter labdanum, contrasted by a dry, smoky frankincense. This scent actually has a lot of similarities to Roja’s PDLN1, however this heads in a more incense-forward direction. Recently I was able to try Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute in Harrods - the Reserve Collection re-release. I’m not sure how it compares to the original stuff but I think Damber does a better job of this scent profile than the re-release of Amber Absolute. I adore this fragrance, it’s one of my biggest staples for the winter.
Plum Harajuku is a recreation of the long-lost Plum Japonais by Tom Ford, and by god it does a good job of resurrecting such an amazing scent profile. Initially from the first spray, it doesn’t come across quite as refined as the Tom Ford however this is only fleeting - within a few minutes this scent starts to shine fantastically. An overdose of sweet, sticky, juicy plums and elegant florals are contrasted by the comforting warmth of intense cinnamon and a hint of dark woodiness. These notes are what dominate the overall scent profile - this fragrance smells like Christmas Day to me, in the best way possible. Not long ago I actually got a decant of the original Plum Japonais and whilst it’s fantastic, I actually like this version better. The plum and the cinnamon seem to jump out at you even more, encapsulating the very essence of plum and cinnamon together. As usual with Insider Parfums the quality greatly surpasses what the amazingly low price might suggest - this is fantastic.
Very good for the genre (a genre which doesn't really interest me). Very strong performance, after showering it's still going strong. Is that a good thing? I don't think so.
