fragrances
समीक्षा
1.9k समीक्षाएं
What can I say about this? I'm one of the few fragrance snob reviewers who actually liked the original Invictus (for a little bit anyway) in the current climate it started (or was a prominent milestone in) the philsophy of more is more, four perfumers and even more notes and accords than you could shake a fouled stick at, then came the inevitable flankers. Funny how 'Invictus flanker' rhymes with 'massive wanker' because that's what you look like in the gym or on a youtube video with your tinnie-tiny, trophy, cup. The Aqua one people raved about was garbage, come on? it was!!! Then there's this. I hadn't bothered trying it as I don't with many nowadays, but I sprayed this recently and was surprised how non repulsive it was. I got a kind of light top of aromatic, modern biz, then a light, non intrusive vanillic thing quite soft and round, not my usual bag but not instantly dismissible. No Victory is dismissible after about 20 mins or so when it settles down to a holocaust of atrocious accords floating in a dead vanilla soup, it is truly awful perfume. What an idiot I was humming those opening bars like some buffoon listening to shitty music on the radio, that's the sort of crowd mentality which gets these perfumes made. Yeah it's safe to say I don't like it. I'm not just being mean and snobby I just don't get the point of this stuff, it's like the conflict I get in perfumes like cedrat boisee another work of Satan himself. (Sorry that's melodramatic) it's more like the work of a demon perhaps?
Functional. Pedestrian. The Beige box says everything. However, I like it. I think that says quite a bit about the landscape of designer men's releases at the moment if something as mediocre as this actually appears nicer in comparison to an abysmal backdrop. I genuinely couldn't tell you what this smells like. I'm not being mean about it, just incompetent as a reviewer that's all. I must reiterate I like it, but it's not exciting enough to recall in any great detail. Is it a citrus? Softly spicy and herbal I'd say? Maybe? The notes say bergamot, black pepper, juniper and cedar, I mean if ever you were going to make a generic, man-jus, it would sound like that, but to me it's different from that even, it's softer and muskier than that note list would imply. Get it in a bargain bucket somewhere in a few months/years and I'm there.
If I was being totally honest I'd say that I perhaps would NEVER have mentioned a cauliflower in my review unless prompted by the sample card to do so. Perhaps my mind is conjuring/grasping here, I freely admit it, but if this is cauliflower, then it's 'creamed cauliflower' not quite cauliflower cheese, my missus makes a kind of healthy (healthier) version anyway with milk and a kind of roux. Anyway... This is a strange fragrance anyway in the sense that the mandarin orange and perhaps bergamot opening doesn't quite give an instant flavour of what lies beneath but this is no doubt a creamy, vanillic, tonka bean fragrance. In all honesty, I don't like it. The saving grace is that it's creative and I believe this has a home with someone, while I've smelled most of these effects before, I've never really come across them together. I think what adds to the vegetal aspect in a fragrance which at it's heart, is quite a sweet (I know vegetables can be and often are sweet but I mean in a more sugary, dessert sense) thing. Coming back to the Cauliflower, I get a really faint trace of nutmeg or mace, and I think that's what's giving this creamed, veg, vibe. I was prepared to love a tonka centric fragrance from a great brand, albeit with a silly name... TONK A BLONK... haha, from a great perfumer, etc..... but I just don't like it. Sorry.
Woaah Nellie!!! The opening has a tart fruity sweetness and a warmth like a musk perfume but as a top note (which is strange anyway but stranger, considering what happens next) Anyway this initial smell is mental but it lasts about as long as a super heavy ion or Higgs particle or something? It really is gone almost as quickly a you perceive it. Then comes a really insanely earthy note. Just, just on the cusp of being too much geosmin (or similar) it's certainly what I would consider and overdose. At first it is a beetroot effect but as it wears on, it's a bit much for me. However, it peaks around the 20min mark and settles in to a nice, mineral, earthy, accord. Is it really beetroot though? I often think it's hard to capture the vegetal, carroty, bloody sweetness, because beetroot is earthy but it's not entirely so. I think QB has done a good job at making a series of vegetal, modern, seemingly simple perfumes here. I'm personally not bowled over by this one, it's okay y'know.
Three notes or accords listed here and it smells like all of them. It's a modern vetiver, leaning on the nootkatone synergy with grapefruit, a perfect combination but then it has this vine tomato consume association to me. Lasts ages. If you want a vegetal, woody, fragrance with a long lasting bite of bitter grapefruit, then this is as good as any I've tried. Does it excite me, not really, but it ties in very well with the Fennel one, Cedrat ceruse in a cohesive collection. I like it.
Okay, quick initial apprasial of these new L'artisans. I've worn on skin once but not properly, will come back and update but they're pretty straight forward, I doubt my thoughts will change a great deal. This one is lemon and fennel. haha. No I didn't just read the notes here, it opens with a squeeze of lemon, bright, lovely, then it settles into a anise tinged light, woody musk. Doesn't last for ages or anything and it never really inspired me or anything but it's my favourite of the new four I tried.
hmmmm...could've sworn I reviewed this. Anyhow, yeah....it's a treat. Really nice, cooling, naturalistic, dry, lightly peachy osmanthus, at the heart of a gentle, subtle, modern feeling composition. More loveliness from this house (yes I'm allowing these to be considered a house and not just because of their self proclamation) Osmanthus is a really fascinating floral aroma and they've captured it perfectly. It' not the most present or 'big' perfume statement but it's very nice.
So this perfume is really not what I was expecting from something called night flower. That name suggests to me a big, indolic, searchlight jasmine, or a sopping wet tuberose, and I braced myself for nightblooming impact, but in actuality it's much more subdued. Night flower is a musky, mildly vanillic, floral perfume. Smells fleshy like orris and tonka. In fact it smells like tonka absolute as apposed to just coumarin or a usually much sweeter tonka accord. There's something perfect about the sweetness of real tonka and this perfume showcases it delicate nature perfectly. The opening few minutes do have a salty tuberose but it's more like that very delicate from enfluerage kinda stuff not a brutal indolic power house, or sweetened, bubblegum, affair. Tuberose is actually fascinating in it's facets and diversity as a perfume material. Here it's very fleeting and slight, but I like that. The drydown is really cuddly, musky, I personally really like it, it's rounded and creamy and base heavy, and although sadly I have a bit of a cold today or I think It would be a bit more present, it's a very subtle, skin scent, which occasionally emanates, lovely little wafts, it's a very personal fragrance for you or someone that gets very close. I've just noticed comparisons to musc ravageur....nah! I get that if I had to stick them in a subgenre together, I would , or descriptions in a review like this will be largely the same ballpark, but don't think this is a clone or riff on musc ravageur because it's not even close. I like it a lot, doesn't massively excite me but it's great quality perfume and an absolute pleasure to wear.
A simplified review here as I wrote some quite detailed notes on this but, having worn it a couple of times, it doesn't warrant a great deal of discussion. The top notes, the fruity accord whatever you want to call it, is unique (certainly to my nose) and while I could parrot the notes from here, I'd just say it smells like some sort of 'fruity amalgam'. The fact blood orange is mentioned is interesting and somewhat perceivable, as different to other broadly 'Orange' materials like orange oil, tangerine, mandarin, etc.... all of which are different but blood orange is really different. Then pear & blackcurrant? Sure. Why not? This accord is present throughout, a very long lasting fruity freshness, the glaze atop what is a mildly honied and caramelised amber accord, with what I'd say is a slightly femme lean. I think it's good, I like it. I don't love it though.
So this is the first fragrance I've tried from this brand. I wasn't sure of their legitimacy to be honest, I'd seen many (what I assumed to be free) bottle flying around on social media among the influencers and bottle begging shites who know little about the craft but seem to offer up their expertise anyway. (sorry, I'm supposed to be reviewing this) Anyway, another off putting bit was the tendency to vagazzle the bottles with gold leaf, something I associate with vodka for tween girls or a special Christmas, Gin liquor bottle, which lights up and looks like a snow globe, such is all the golden debris floating in flacon of Atelier des Ors. Something gaudy to appeal to the middle eastern market, says luxury to them but tacky to me and a big turn off. However, this brand has earned some kudos by some respected voices saying they are worth checking out, and by not being another throwaway, transient, pop up. I have to admire the aesthetic and creativity of the brand, gold leaf and all, having tried 5 of the collection here and being impressed by all of them, in one way or another. Aube rubis then is an immediately fruity and immediately patchouli forward fragrance, it's clever in being full bodied but not quite giving up all it's secrets right away, it's reminiscent of a FM Monsieur or that Bois 1920 one, real smacks in the face of patchouli but this has a mildly softer, more graduated edge. I get that the fruity note in the opening is listed as blackcurrant here, and I see there being a 'twang' to this, I often say it is similar to saffron and comes from the earth of patchouli, but blends into fruity notes well too, could be cassis that is conspiring here to make an interesting effect. A gourmand, edibility (says praline here) I can't help feeling is not your typical chocolate association sometimes gotten from patchouli. So I'm saying all this is familiar in tone, but in truth this is bold but still wearable and has it's own little trick up it's sleeve. As it dries down I get more labdanum and resins in combination with that patch but still sweet and toppy sense of something 'fruity'. I like it, I think it's well made, has enough to keep me interested, has goldilocks zone patchouli which will satisfy the purist without alienating the more timid perfume fan. All in all a good introduction to the brand for me.