Mousse de fougère! This is what I call Paloma Picasso in its edt concentration. I have an edp from the mid 80’s which goes into Knowing territory. I also have a 1995 Cosmair edt for more frequent use that feels somehow drier, fougèrier, but not at all lighter. Review of this particular edt (UP271, Cosmair/Paloma Picasso Parfums). Paloma in general has always been for me a very floral chypre. Green as hell, but floral; rich dark roses, jasmine, spicy carnation/geranium accents, with very slight mimosa powder. Animalics that instead of going feral, enhance the other notes. The edp goes all the way into that territory, deepens with wear, and at the end the civet and castoreum make a curtain call to assert their presence. The edt however behaves differently. The floral notes, with more emphasis on carnation, become more dandy, more obscure, like taking cue from something like Narcisse Noir. Even Eau du Soir, which really shows here its kindred relationship. But what predominates is the woody vetiver/oakmoss base. It’s as if a shaving foam was whipped to a featherlight mousse, sprinkled with shavings of soap, a green colored one, and adorned with geranium, carnation, a touch of rose and a drizzle of honey. It smells like those 70’s ads of Badedas or Fa, famous European shower products that back in the day rivaled expensive brands. Clean, bright, soapy, groomed. Not very feral, but the animal inside gives a certain warmth to the entire fragrance. Civet and castoreum can be clean and dirty, if you know how to dose them. Sillage and longevity don’t deviate from the edp; couple of sprays on the neck, couple on the chest and wrists, project for hours and last to the end of the day. Hours in, it becomes more rose/patchouli without the chemical woods that are used today to recreate and give depth to such accords. So you get the nice stuff without the crappy Ambro whatever. If you like one, you’ll like the other. If you gravitate towards Knowing, EdS, Scherrer, you’ll love it. If you find the edp challenging, you might enjoy the edt. But it’s recognizably Paloma Picasso in all its beauty so if you don’t like old school proper chypres, chances are you probably won’t enjoy it. Fougère and barbershop scent fans are likely to love it!
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२ वर्ष पहले
Paloma Picasso से Paloma Picasso Eau de Toilette1984 में रिलीज़ हुआ था। इस रचना के पीछे इत्र निर्माता अज्ञात हैं। इसमें Aldehydes, Bergamot, Coriander, Lemon, and Neroli के टॉप नोट्स, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Mimosa, and Rose के मिडिल नोट्स, and Amber, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, and Vetiver के बेस नोट्स हैं।
Mousse de fougère! This is what I call Paloma Picasso in its edt concentration. I have an edp from the mid 80’s which goes into Knowing territory. I also have a 1995 Cosmair edt for more frequent use that feels somehow drier, fougèrier, but not at all lighter. Review of this particular edt (UP271, Cosmair/Paloma Picasso Parfums). Paloma in general has always been for me a very floral chypre. Green as hell, but floral; rich dark roses, jasmine, spicy carnation/geranium accents, with very slight mimosa powder. Animalics that instead of going feral, enhance the other notes. The edp goes all the way into that territory, deepens with wear, and at the end the civet and castoreum make a curtain call to assert their presence. The edt however behaves differently. The floral notes, with more emphasis on carnation, become more dandy, more obscure, like taking cue from something like Narcisse Noir. Even Eau du Soir, which really shows here its kindred relationship. But what predominates is the woody vetiver/oakmoss base. It’s as if a shaving foam was whipped to a featherlight mousse, sprinkled with shavings of soap, a green colored one, and adorned with geranium, carnation, a touch of rose and a drizzle of honey. It smells like those 70’s ads of Badedas or Fa, famous European shower products that back in the day rivaled expensive brands. Clean, bright, soapy, groomed. Not very feral, but the animal inside gives a certain warmth to the entire fragrance. Civet and castoreum can be clean and dirty, if you know how to dose them. Sillage and longevity don’t deviate from the edp; couple of sprays on the neck, couple on the chest and wrists, project for hours and last to the end of the day. Hours in, it becomes more rose/patchouli without the chemical woods that are used today to recreate and give depth to such accords. So you get the nice stuff without the crappy Ambro whatever. If you like one, you’ll like the other. If you gravitate towards Knowing, EdS, Scherrer, you’ll love it. If you find the edp challenging, you might enjoy the edt. But it’s recognizably Paloma Picasso in all its beauty so if you don’t like old school proper chypres, chances are you probably won’t enjoy it. Fougère and barbershop scent fans are likely to love it!