Mila Schön, the first fragrance launched by the Italian brand in 1981 has nothing to do with the pyramid listed here. The leaflet that came with the perfume and ancillary body products describes it as ‘a chypre fragrance, with notes of bergamot, mimosa, carnation, cloves, rose, jasmine…resting on a base of oakmoss, civet, castoreum, ambergris and vetiver’. The notes listed in Fragrantica are about subsequent reformulations that have nothing to do with the original beauty. 240ml Eau de Parfum reviewed, from the early 80’s. Mila opens like many late 70’s to early 80’s chypres, but mostly like the forgotten ones; Missoni, Vu, J’ai Osé…herbal and bitter, fruity but sparkling, elegant! The intelectual ones like I call them. The ones that time (injustily) forgot, became too scarce or too expensive to pursue and eventually became a memory. There’s a wonderful bitter quality that marries with a honeyed note and immediately brings to mind Ted Lapidu’s Vu. The fruity bergamot is more astringent here and embraces a revitalizing effect. Uplifting. Galbanum, which I’m sure is here as well, brings it closer to a green fragrance at first, but as soon as the flowers begin to appear things change over. A muted rose, a soft jasmine and a more prominent carnation and pollen rich cassis or mimosa. The honeyed feel of the mimosa becomes more prominent now, and it reminds me slightly of Vu’s intensely urinous honey note, although here is far more subdued and smooth. Mila is one of the fragrances that becomes stronger as it dries down. The oakmoss and vetiver enter the scene, alongside the patchouli, and the scent becomes more woody than chypre; the earthy notes are strong but the oakmoss feels like a recurring player rather than the star. The animalic trifecta of civet-castoreum-ambergris radiates heavily if I smell my skin, but lingers lightly in the air around me if I smell the sillage. It varies from heavily dirty to heavily musky, depending on the temperature and the way I smell my skin. But it never leaves, and while never entering dangerous territory like Furyo, Magie Noire or La Nuit for example, it is never unnoticeable. The general feel is of a slightly melancholic scent. It inevitably feels 70’s, which for me is a plus and it has all the elements I enjoy in perfume. Add to that a green/chypre character with intense animal notes and I’m in heaven! I can’t help but feel it branches from the Aromatics Elixir family and just like the fragrances mentioned above it has a sophisticated feel, intelectual capacity and gorgeous glimpses to bygone eras that once upon a time were the IT moment. It’s a perfume for a few, who can appreciate it just like it takes a developed palate to devour all the nuances of a fine wine. Easily found, not terribly expensive and very much worth the time and effort! Moderate to heavy sillage with outstanding longevity. Edit to add; a year and a half of use and I’m amazed at how it blooms on skin. No matter if it’s hot or cold, Mila shines. Winter, summer…the deep deep drydown shows an animalic warmth that just pulsates and vibrates for hours on end. I love and sense it all day long, but come the end of the day, I catch whiffs of something gorgeous, erotic, sensual…a beast gleaming from my pores. Very few perfumes do this and Mila is one of them. Couldn’t be happier to have more than 300ml in total, I didn’t expect this outcome and I’m more than surprised. What a shame this gem doesn’t get the praise it deserves, it’s undoubtedly a classic! Side note: if Kouros ever had a version ‘pour femme’, this is it! Original official notes: Bergamot-Mandarin-Peach-Plum-Strawberry-Neroli-Coriander-Carnation-Aniseed-Galbanum-Spices-Nutmeg Rosewood-Jasmine-Rose-Cloves-Ylang Ylang-Iris-Lilly of the Valley-Blackcurrant-Clary Sage-Violet-Acacia or Mimosa Oakmoss-Vetiver-Patchouli-Musk-Vanilla-Sandalwood-Castoreum-Frankincense-Civet-Benzoin-Opoponax-Ambergris