One small thing I’d like to clarify first. Just like Calandre before it, Metal, launched in 1979 or even sooner, came as pure perfume and edt from the start; Eau de Metal just like Eau de Calandre were the original edt versions. Metal edt and Calandre edt are later reformulations from the 90’s that skipped the Eau. Also, if you want the real note list for EdM, check the Metal page for the perfume. 1970’s 200ml splash reviewed, rectangular bottle with black plastic/metal cap. Silver/red box with vintage silver PR logo. The opening of EdM feels and smells way ahead of its time. Calandre ushered space age futurism in perfume but Metal cemented it. And EdM smells like hot metal way before it became modern. Aldehydes, cool greens that lack the bite of galbanum and a super potent lilly of the valley that reminds me of Diorissimo but 3D. You don’t get a dark mossy feel, instead it feels like stems, forest floor after a shower. The heart shows us more of the flowers, but they feel aloof and cold. Like a florists but without the artificialness that permeates more modern fragrances. There’s no cellophane or stale vase water; instead, they’re just cooling in the fridge. But at the same time they’re heady if that makes sense. Rose, powdery iris along cooler hyacinths, glimpses of white flowers in all their heaviness playing in tune. Muguet steals the show, but you can sense the rest having a minor spotlight. The base, which btw does an amazing job of anchoring everything on skin for hours, shows us what perfumes were made of; oakmoss galore starts showing up along with creamy sandalwood and a variety of musks, dare I say a smidgeon of civet to bring life to the entire composition? Classic meets modern, hefty base notes allow the cooler and futuristic style to shine, and what now feels avant garde (the hot metal accord in H24 anyone?) here, it shines. Innovative for its time, the metal aspect of Metal and to a lesser degree Calandre, is a play with musks that lacks the exaggeration of newer stuff, has none of the synthetic smell and overall lends a hot iron feel, similar to what aldehydes can do. The whole evolution is covered in this sensual and silky, natural smelling hot metal accord but it never steals the show. In H24, the most recent example I can think of, this feel pierces and takes over, smelling way too dependent on synthetics. In EdM it’s used in moderation, just like salt in food, and manages to convey a hot encounter that started on a Calandre and keeps going forever. It’s Barbarella, getting to know Earth, men, and having fun, never taking of her Paco Rabanne metal incrusted dress! Paco Rabanne was a true visionary, modernist, and his early creations follow a pattern without being redundant. One continues where the other ends, and while Calandre, as the first, took a more classic approach heading towards Calèche territory, Metal, younger and fiercer, follows that path but makes it her/his own. Metal, glass, plexi, you name it. Aldehydes to lift it off, a neon muguet as the star, and clouds of hot steam to take of to a dystopian garden. It couldn’t be more wonderful! Highly unisex, classic and modern, if you guys enjoy Futur (another marvel of the 70’s), Calandre, Fidji, Rive Gauche, Calèche, Y…this is a gem to be discovered! Gorgeous sillage and longevity!