Fougère Noire, from Sultan Pasha Attars was released in 2018. The perfumer behind this creation is Sultan Pasha. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Clary Sage, Coffee, Elemi, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Nutmeg, Pine Tree, and Seaweed, middle notes of Carnation, Coffee, Cyclamen, Elemi, Fir, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Mushroom, Oakmoss, Pine Tree, Rose, Seaweed, and Tobacco, and base notes of Amber, Ambergris, Castoreum, Cedarwood, Civet, Coumarin, Iso E Super, Mushroom, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Seaweed, Tonka Bean, and Vetiver.
Wow! Again Sultan just keeps giving these looks and it's a treat for perfume fans because he clearly blends with such skill and Passion. I don't really feel as though I have to blow smoke up the guys arse but not one of these attars is dominant in a single note, no matter how individually complex that note might be? That is rare in the world of these oils, to be so prolific at mixing elements and not getting mud or unfocused fragrances. These all have a brightness and clarity. So this is a fougere opening with a green lemon and lime citrus sparkling with elemi and pine. The general feeling is as green as the attar itself and gives an instant transportation back to childhood. I'm not sure if it's mine or a past life or a fantasy? but it feels like something I experienced whether waking or in a dreamstate. Strangely clean and mountain air like, the technicolour of the hills and mountain tops in a sound of music, but with a soapy forest floor, and mossy bark with fresh fungus peeking out...giving an almost psychotropic effect. The oakmoss element is there but not as strong as I thought it might be, but again that speaks to the blend of many materials coming together. Is there coumarin or tonka warmth there? That's what you have to ask with a fougere, or does it replace that sweet warmth with something else and I'd say this likely does but it's not as perceivable, although drying down to a lovely warm scent on skin with the most delicate barely there coffee note. I think it's fantastic and one of a few fougere's Sultan has in his collection some of which use less expensive materials.