Equilibre, from Sultan Pasha Attars was released in 2018. The perfumer behind this creation is unknown. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Blood Orange, Lemon, Neroli, and Violet, middle notes of Jasmine, Orange Blossom, and Rose, and base notes of Agarwood (Oud), Amber, Ambergris, Ambrette (Musk Mallow), Benzoin, Civet, Honey, Mimosa, Musk, Opoponax, Sandalwood, and Vetiver.
Orange and oud. This is a strong opening of both and bergamot (which for me is essential in any citrus opening even if it's more orange centric) very interesting as I've been playing around with something similar myself, and did think that oud could really work. Whata ya know? Pasha has done it and it does. The animalic cheese of oud is shortlived in the opening but the orange/mandarin element sticks around while the resinous, woody nature comes out. Also there's an waxy orange blossom element, I'd be fascinated to know if he bolstered his Orange flower absolute with an orange blossom accord built from synthetics? It feels like that, again mirroring my own efforts. The drydown has a margainally chocolatey amber likley from the Benzoin which does have that vanilla/cacao nuance to it...again working with orange well. This is really nice and original, the elements not too complex but having their own level of inherent complexity keeping the whole thing intriguing throughout. God bless Oud.