Maroc, from Charles Revson was released in 1985. The perfumer behind this creation is unknown. It has the top notes of Aldehydes, Bergamot, Coriander, Geranium, and Honey, middle notes of Jasmine and Rose, and base notes of Ambergris, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Orris Root, Palisander Rosewood, Patchouli, and Vetiver.
Maroc is a chameleon of a perfume. Starts out as a primitive concept of what we know today as a rose/oudh accord, becomes a spicy oriental and ends like a herbal chypre. What a journey this is! Review based on the pure perfume spray from the original 80’s version by Ultima II. Musk rose is the star here. But the first few minutes smell of rich red roses with a very earthy patchouli. It smells, in an abstract way, like a rose oudh perfume. Attar preferably. But it doesn’t take long for it to deviate and become more of a spicy oriental; the rose softens, spices come into play, the civet becomes quite noticeable and the honey adds more dimension. It doesn’t go Opium or Youth Dew, but it does approximate it. The honey reminds me of a lighter Teatro Alla Scala. It really blooms in this stage, becoming sweet and enveloping. As it starts to dry down, the spiciness dissipates and a chypre feel surfaces. Herbal, in the vein of Aromatics but with still a spicy twist. The oakmoss makes its presence known, the civet lingers on skin and it feels like I’m a Woodstock hippy that lives somewhere classy. It smells like a million bucks. And in this long drydown, the star of the show becomes the famed Moschata Rose, or rosehip. Musk rose. With a slight lemony twist reminiscent of geranium and green leaves. It oscillates between clean/soapy, spicy/jammy and chypre/animalic oriental. Every whiff and sniff shows a different side to it. Multifaceted and complex, a real showstopper. Goes without saying that vintage lovers are going to absolutely love it, and those of us who also love 60’s, 70’s and 80’s powerhouses consider it a masterpiece. Worthy of having, it warrants eBay searches for a bottle or two. Outstanding sillage and longevity! Sisley’s Soir de Lune is a worthy successor and replacement for this almost unavailable beauty. I’ve found a spray of Paloma and a spray of Soir de Lune make for a cunningly close dupe.