Aimez Moi Comme Je Suis, from Caron was released in 2020. The perfumer behind this creation is Jean Jacques. It has the top notes of Ginger and Grapefruit, middle notes of Hazelnut and Vetiver, and base notes of Tobacco and Tonka Bean.
Caron have managed to make an iconic formula here but one which is mildly derivative of lots of common tropes and aroma chemicals etc... but combined in such a way as to make something that feels new to me. That's all I can ask of a perfume, we all know the common building blocks and 'tricks' or commonality of technique used by perfumers and I don't expect a completely original, ground breaking work of genius everytime I sniff out a new perfume, but just try and that effort will be reflected in the end result and that's what we have here. So vetiver being the prominent listed note is misleading for me, because it's not the smoky, earthy, dry notes I get from it. (wait for the contradiction in 5,4,3...) Despite having a creamy, woody, earthy, slightly nutty drydown (all descriptors I would also use for a complex vetiver oil) I DON'T think that Aimez moi comme je suis is in anyway a typical vetiver, nor do I smell vetiver in it really. Apparently the formula contains 10% vetiver oil which despite being quite potent can blend down into a composition or be easily subdued depending what else you put in. I think the way it manifests in this perfume is intriguing, the earthy notes are even slightly more reminiscent of patchouli than vetiver. So the way this opens is very...(I hate this word but it's appropriate) generic. What I mean is that I get that herbal, faux bergamot (bergamal, DHM), lavender, clary sage it's classically soapy but then there's this smoky element. Hold on Houdini!!! Woah woah woah, YOU SAID and I quote... "...This is not the smoky, earthy dry notes..." so what do you mean??? Well if you'd let me finish...(god I need to see a shrink! :) I was about to say that this has the lingering smokey after touch of cigarette smoke on clothing, not always a nice thing but in this context it puts the normality (if very well constructed) main body, of clean, men's shower gels and soap and such, into a whole new context. So you smell the opening and go...Caron? what's happening here this is a bit... Lynx/Axe deodorant like...then as it settles it starts to chime with lots of other notes and before you know it this thing is charming you. The name is also imploring you to love it, perhaps they know that this is the mental process people go through with it? Underwhelmed, mildly charmed, to fallen for...A true grower not a shower. The drydown really is beautiful, it has a certain modernity too with that kind of creamy, ambrox/woods and that nutty, depth. I think it's really, really accomplished, and harder than you think to create something more than the sum of it's parts & which doesn't smell old hat. I'd compare it to GIT or Cool water but also Terre d'Hermes or Fierce or CKOne, just in terms of it's place in the pantheon of great men's perfume formulas comprised primarily of very commonly used materials but brought together harmoniously.
Caron have managed to make an iconic formula here but one which is mildly derivative of lots of common tropes and aroma chemicals etc... but combined in such a way as to make something that feels new to me. That's all I can ask of a perfume, we all know the common building blocks and 'tricks' or commonality of technique used by perfumers and I don't expect a completely original, ground breaking work of genius everytime I sniff out a new perfume, but just try and that effort will be reflected in the end result and that's what we have here. So vetiver being the prominent listed note is misleading for me, because it's not the smoky, earthy, dry notes I get from it. (wait for the contradiction in 5,4,3...) Despite having a creamy, woody, earthy, slightly nutty drydown (all descriptors I would also use for a complex vetiver oil) I DON'T think that Aimez moi comme je suis is in anyway a typical vetiver, nor do I smell vetiver in it really. Apparently the formula contains 10% vetiver oil which despite being quite potent can blend down into a composition or be easily subdued depending what else you put in. I think the way it manifests in this perfume is intriguing, the earthy notes are even slightly more reminiscent of patchouli than vetiver. So the way this opens is very...(I hate this word but it's appropriate) generic. What I mean is that I get that herbal, faux bergamot (bergamal, DHM), lavender, clary sage it's classically soapy but then there's this smoky element. Hold on Houdini!!! Woah woah woah, YOU SAID and I quote... "...This is not the smoky, earthy dry notes..." so what do you mean??? Well if you'd let me finish...(god I need to see a shrink! :) I was about to say that this has the lingering smokey after touch of cigarette smoke on clothing, not always a nice thing but in this context it puts the normality (if very well constructed) main body, of clean, men's shower gels and soap and such, into a whole new context. So you smell the opening and go...Caron? what's happening here this is a bit... Lynx/Axe deodorant like...then as it settles it starts to chime with lots of other notes and before you know it this thing is charming you. The name is also imploring you to love it, perhaps they know that this is the mental process people go through with it? Underwhelmed, mildly charmed, to fallen for...A true grower not a shower. The drydown really is beautiful, it has a certain modernity too with that kind of creamy, ambrox/woods and that nutty, depth. I think it's really, really accomplished, and harder than you think to create something more than the sum of it's parts & which doesn't smell old hat. I'd compare it to GIT or Cool water but also Terre d'Hermes or Fierce or CKOne, just in terms of it's place in the pantheon of great men's perfume formulas comprised primarily of very commonly used materials but brought together harmoniously.